FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4
Results 31 to 40 of 40

Thread: A/C Belt Replacement

  1. #31
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DPI JOSH View Post
    There is a trick to not loosing the bolt. Essentially it is a jam nut situation with one nut fixed to the bracket and the other loose. Replace the loose nut with a nyloc and the vibration problem goes away. Works every time here at DPI.
    Yup, good trick. When installing the nyloc nut, it helps to install the nut in the normal orientation first to help form a thread through the nylon locking feature. Then remove and reinstall the nut with the nylon feature towards the head of the bolt.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  2. #32
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Taylors SC

    Posts:    5,326

    My VIN:    (former)05429

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Yup, good trick. When installing the nyloc nut, it helps to install the nut in the normal orientation first to help form a thread through the nylon locking feature. Then remove and reinstall the nut with the nylon feature towards the head of the bolt.
    Two comments
    Once the two lateral bolts that go into the head through all the brackets and spacers are tight, the adjusting bolt isn't doing anything.

    I've never seen the adjusting bolt/lock nut come loose, unless someone didn't tighten the lock nut in the first place.
    Dave S
    DMC Midwest - retired but helping
    Greenville SC

  3. #33
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2014

    Location:  Anchorage, Alaska

    Posts:    847

    My VIN:    5625

    Quote Originally Posted by Ozzie View Post
    See the brackets the pulleys are on? There's actually two brackets a short oval on the top and a longer one underneath it, and they both meet at a common bolt point. Each bracket then has it's own bolt at opposite ends. So that's a total of three bolts that go into the timing cover, from this bracket.

    Now run your hand down the bracket, and you should find a long bolt that screws through the bottom of the bracket, and touches the side of the valve head. Some cars don't have that bolt. That bolt is what sets the tension on the belt.

    Now that you've identified the applicable bolts. Loosen the three pulley bolts, don't remove them just loosen them. There are two spacers and a seal plate behind them that you want to keep in place, otherwise it just gets more complicated than it should to remount the bracket.

    If you have the long bolt at the bottom of the bracket, then undo the nut that locks it in place, and start to loosen the bolt to relieve the belt tension. With the pulley bracket loose, that will relieve the tension in the belt, until you can pull it off the pulleys. If you don't have this bolt, the tension will be relieved as soon as you loosen the three front bracket bolts.

    Repeat process in reverse to replace the belt. A good belt tension here is about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch deflection on the longest un-supported length of the belt, with a fingertip push. If you don't have the bolt on the bracket, you'll have to get creative to create tension while you simultaneously tighten the three front bolts - so you may want to consider replacing it if you don't have it. It comes in handy when required.
    I was going to remove the AC tensioner bracket to replace my noisy idler bearings. Do I have to? Hervey sells a re-conditioned bracket with new bearings and pulleys that I've had my eye on. Or is there some way to replace the bearings in the pulleys without removing the bracket? I didn't know there were spacers and a seal plate behind it.....what happens if I pull it off? Will oil go all over the place?

    also, when I tighten the ac belt, should I be able to freely spin the idler pulleys? The top idler pulley seems to be much looser than than the bottom unless I tighten things up....
    Last edited by Trstno1; 01-26-2015 at 04:29 PM.
    You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....

  4. #34
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern NJ

    Posts:    8,570

    My VIN:    10757 1st place Concourse 1998

    Quote Originally Posted by Trstno1 View Post
    I was going to remove the AC tensioner bracket to replace my noisy idler bearings. Do I have to? Hervey sells a re-conditioned bracket with new bearings and pulleys that I've had my eye on. Or is there some way to replace the bearings in the pulleys without removing the bracket? I didn't know there were spacers and a seal plate behind it.....what happens if I pull it off? Will oil go all over the place?

    also, when I tighten the ac belt, should I be able to freely spin the idler pulleys? The top idler pulley seems to be much looser than than the bottom unless I tighten things up....
    You do have to take it all apart. You do have to keep track of all of the spacers, washers, and stuff so you can put it all back EXACTLY as it comes apart. You need the "O" ring for the cover and yes, you do get some oil but not a lot. You can wipe it up. Use the figures in the Parts Manual 1-1-4 and 7-2-1.
    David Teitelbaum

  5. #35
    Desert DeLorean Driver burch's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2015

    Location:  Mesa, AZ

    Posts:    161

    My VIN:    6631

    Club(s):   (AZ-D)

    I'm actually in the process of reassembling my pulleys now. Had to replace both bearings. Having some difficulty however. In the 7-2-1 diagram, it shows the pulley mounting bracket (item 9) screws matching up to the holes in the blanking plate. The mounting bracket, however, is a bit wider than the blanking plate. Am I reading the assembly diagram wrong?

    plates.jpg

  6. #36
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    A/C Belt Replacement

    Your reading it wrong. The slotted adjuster goes on the two bolts that hold the cover in place with spacers. The illustration is wrong. Item 13 bolt screws into the timing cover, not through the cover plate. The lower item 14 bolt with tall spacer goes where it shows the item 13 bolt going. The zig zag tracer line is wrong. FYI I'm referencing the illustration in the parts manual.
    Last edited by DMC5180; 06-30-2015 at 08:12 PM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  7. #37
    Desert DeLorean Driver burch's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2015

    Location:  Mesa, AZ

    Posts:    161

    My VIN:    6631

    Club(s):   (AZ-D)

    That was it, thanks Dennis! All reassembled and full of A/C glory (whatever that means in 110+ heat )

  8. #38
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    4,026

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by burch View Post
    That was it, thanks Dennis! All reassembled and full of A/C glory (whatever that means in 110+ heat )
    👍🏻
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  9. #39
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,654

    My VIN:    11596

    I recently went through the same thing. The sketch in the parts manual is not correct.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  10. #40
    Desert DeLorean Driver burch's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2015

    Location:  Mesa, AZ

    Posts:    161

    My VIN:    6631

    Club(s):   (AZ-D)

    Yeah, once I heard that, it went back together really easily. Per Danny @ DMCCA, I also added some Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker around the new seal on the cover plate. No leaks!

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •