FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD
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'82 T3
Well... on my car anyway. YDMV.
It's pretty flimsy, you may be able to just let it hang far enough to get a ratcheting box end wrench on the nuts.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey :: Supercharged K24 / G96 Swap (in progress)
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Originally Posted by
FABombjoy
Well... on my car anyway. YDMV.
It's pretty flimsy, you may be able to just let it hang far enough to get a ratcheting box end wrench on the nuts.
True....I didn't think of that. It is kind of [ shaped though.
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Worked on the car for 4 hours last night.
The wife....okay I'm changing from "the wife" to Tam. The wife just sounds too weird when you keep saying it over and over. Tam cleaned up parts in the glass bead blaster.
I started by spending way too much time trying to fix the melted wiring. If anyone has ever dealt with overheated wiring you know how much of a pain it is. The wiring has melted to insulation so you can't simply strip the insulation off the wire. You have to score the insulation around the OD then score it lengthwise. If you're lucky you can then peel the insulation off the wire. If you're not lucky...like I was, you'll have to tediously, surgically remove the insulation from the wiring one strand at a time and sometimes this doesn't even work. This was my situation.


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This got me thinking....what does the OTHER SIDE of this wiring run look like? So I climbed up on the mezzanine where the rear facia is stored and checked the wiring. Sure enough...same thing. Violet and violet with white melted. Also I discovered what caused the meltdown. It looks like the wires chafed through and shorted out. Mystery solved. So I'll need this wiring also. From the plug connector to the loads or at least several feet out. Looking at this plug connector with female connections I am not sure how they would get removed from the plug connector...even with a special tool.

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I stuffed the wiring harness into the car for now. Hopefully Josh or someone can hook me up with these wires. Next I removed the grounding lug. Kind of tricky because it just ends up spinning even though it is in a square hole. So you can either jam two nuts together on the stud or reach waaaaaaaay in through the right pontoon with a pair of pliers to hold it whole you or someone else loosens the nut. I couldn't seem to find another nut the correct size so I used some small Visegrips.


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I took another stab at trying to remove the engine cover hinges. People on FB claimed that the long trim piece could be flexed enough to remove it and that the side trim pieces could be pushed back to gain more clearance. This didn't work for me unfortunately. I thought "Okay maybe they had these bracket plates removed." I mean it was hitting on them so maybe that was the problem. Besides I kind of wanted to remove them to clean up the studs and paint them.
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