Location: SW FL
Posts: 1,096
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
You have it so go for it especially now. I will eventually do a SS box but luckily mine is in great shape + I coated it with surface shield and bolted the rear.
My good friend has a SS box and his doors open/shut PERFECT and feel incredibly stabilized. It really is nice piece of mind as is having a rust free frame.
~LXA~
Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry
Posts: 1,645
We worked on the car from 12-5 today. I removed the lift struts that came from D-Ind. They were causing the door way too fast and hard. I did the test on the doors that I had been told to do. The doors open 1.25" open at the rub strips with no lift struts installed. This is pretty close to what I have been told (2").
I put the other set back on. These are ones I bought off Ebay four years ago. As I remembered, these did not have ENOUGH lift.
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Finished reassembling the right side.
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I told Tam her job was to do the other strut mount reinforcement.
She tried to do it without getting inside the car for an hour then finally stopped being stubborn and got inside the car.
While she was doing that I worked on other things
I removed all of the windshield trim to clean behind it, paint it, and reinstall with new screws. Several screws had to be ground off with the dremel.
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This fell off while working on the car.
I didn't notice how bad these jack points were. Add S.S. Jack points to the list.
Tam finishing up her job.
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The last thing I did is prep for installing the windshield cowl.
Rubber standoffs set in place with black RTV.
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While working on the car one of the jack plates just fell off the car. I don't know how I never noticed just how rusty these were.
I have been hearing from a lot of owners that they really like the D-go lift struts. There is even two YouTube videos that I found. The first is the guy opening his door in cold weather the second is in warm weather. In both videos the door opens quickly, smoothly, but doesn't slam open even when warm. Their struts have dampening near the end of the extension stroke to slow the action down at the end.
Also it looks like their kit (all struts for the entire car) even come with new ball studs for some of the struts.
I checked and the struts for the fronk and rear louver are cheap struts that I bought off Ebay when we first got the car.
So I had Tam order the full set of lift struts in black, new S.S. jacking plates, and rivets.
They have an option of S.S. lift struts but they were more expensive and personally I think too much SS farkle on these cars takes away from the look. I think the black around the doors, in the fronk, etc. looks good in contrast to the S.S. exterior.
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Funny to see perfection in some of your pics and pine needles in others.
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Haha yup still finding these hidden area that have been untouched for 40 years.Originally Posted by Helirich
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New struts and jack plates showed up the other day. Crazy quick shipping from the UK to Maine for free.
I decided to pop the struts on the doors and try them out.
The lifting power seems similar to what the D-go ones were but the difference is the fluid braking during the last part of the stroke. I may back off the torsion rods a notch or two still though because it opens the door with pretty good force even in my 57 degree garage and also I am going to be replacing the lock solenoids at some point.
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