1982 Frame Off Restoration

[SupercoolBill]

Before I installed the new valve I tested it per Andy L's instructions. Key in ON postion, valve drives fully then slowly goes the other way. Yup good to go. Note- The valve vibrates like a beard trimmer. I asked around and apparently this is normal operation.
I installed the new idle control valve.
I thought I would need a longer piece of rubber hose to connect the valve to the cold start valve tube but I forgot that the tube can swing forward and back so I worked with what was there. I had a heck of a time getting the valve holder ring at the correct angle for the screw hole to line up with the threads on the base plate. I am not sure why this didn't line up right.


I turned the key and the engine fired right up and idled with a bit of up and down pattern. The real test would be what happens after the engine warms up. After ten minutes the car was still idling around 800 to 1100 RPM. No crazy high idle and no glowing exhaust headers. YAY!!!
I never heard the fans come on and the Fan Fail light was on, engine temp on the dash was pretty low and the pipe that the otter stat is in wasn't hot so not surprised the fans were not on. Maybe not fully warmed up yet or air in the system?

I decided to quit while I was ahead and shut it down after revving it up a couple times.

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

[Rich]

Good progress there.

Normally the idle valve does buzz with ignition ON with engine either running or not. And the idle valve spool does normally behave as you describe it in the first 30-45 sec after it key is turned to ON position. This observation tells you the idle speed valve is connected to the Idle ECU, the valve isn't bound up and it's motor is works.

As far as your engine surging at 800-1100RPM test for vacuum leaks in the intake system or in any of the vacuum takeoffs from it. Again.

[SupercoolBill]

Here is a video of it being started and running after installing the new idle valve. I am sure I still have more tweaking to do.
https://youtu.be/Uyl8Ed_dJDM?si=dCckrmHNIVC7kpaX

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

[Helirich]

Mine idles like that sometimes and sometimes it idles perfect. Warm up doesn?t seem to be the key. (Does it hot or cold)

It only seems to do it with the AC on. I need to hook up the high idle wire.

[ssdelorean]

Back to the car. While we were gone the parts we ordered from DMCH showed up.
I must say that their packaging is over the top.

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

I concur!
Just received rear finisher for under T-Panel. Packaging look just like yours only skinnier. Part was NOT arriving broken or bending under their watch!

[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car today. Goal- Tune the engine and check running characteristics. Install rear facia.

I had typed up a procedure for testing everything with the engine.
I started in the start...cold start injector. I pulled the injector and set it in a bottle. Jumpered the RPM relay. No fuel came out. I thought, maybe I actually need to crank the engine over. I pulled the positive wire off the coil and cranked the engine over for 15 seconds or so. No fuel came out. I had heard before that you could swap the plug connector from the WUR and it would send constant 12V to the CSV to test the CSI. Still no fuel from the CSI. I checked the voltage to the CSI plug while cranking the engine and it was only in the millivolt range.


Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

[Bitsyncmaster]

CSV only gets 12 volts when starter is cranking. The CSV gets it ground through the thermal time switch. Of course you need fuel pressure also.

[SupercoolBill]

CSV only gets 12 volts when starter is cranking. The CSV gets it ground through the thermal time switch. Of course you need fuel pressure also.

I cranked the car over with the RPM relay installed. No fuel came out.

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

[Bitsyncmaster]

I cranked the car over with the RPM relay installed. No fuel came out.

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

You need to test if the 12 volts is failing or the ground on the CSV. If you installed the new starter, did you connect the blue/yellow wire (now not connected through the starter) to the white/red wire on the starter?

[SupercoolBill]

You need to test if the 12 volts is failing or the ground on the CSV. If you installed the new starter, did you connect the blue/yellow wire (now not connected through the starter) to the white/red wire on the starter?

I will have to check that. Everything is new. New starter, new starter wiring, new engine wiring.
I did the trick where you plug the WUR wire into the CSV. Still nothing came out.
Is the CSV just plain old 12VDC?
Could I just hook jumper wires from 12V to it with the car running to see if it sprays?

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk