What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I got my LEDs. They are bidirectional but I'm having a hard time to get reliable connection in the sockets to LEDs. I've tried to bend the pins tighter in the sockets with no results. Maybe I need to sand the wires on the LEDs.

I did install the new flex PCB. The old one was still working but most of the laminate has separated.

[DMC-Ron]

How about some DeoxIT on the contact points and sockets?
Ron

[Bitsyncmaster]

I found the problem with the socket random connection. Oxidation on the clamping where the LED presses in. It's a white power type oxidation. One socket is really bad all others have just a little. I wonder what causes that oxidation.

I'm thinking of using the sockets to hold the bulbs but soldering the LED wires to the PCB copper. I could get them to work mostly using an emery board to sand off that oxidation but I still don't trust them.

Anyway, I measured the current of the OEM bulbs

5 bulbs with the blue support inside are 250 ma. at 12.50 volts
9 bulbs with the white support inside are 175 ma. at 12.50 volts
1 bulb with the blue support inside is 74 ma.

Not sure if that one bulb is just bad or it's the one going to the alternator lamp.

My 5 new white LEDs are switching regulator type and draw 60 ma. each at 12.50 volts. It draws 54 ma. at 14.5 volts. Note these LEDs have the wire wrapped around the bottom so the wire is on both sides. That gives me a lot of wire to solder to the PCB.

The colored indicator LEDs draw 15 ma. at 12.50 volts. They are pretty bright. I may be able to pull those LEDs out of the case and drop the current (for the green LEDs). These have the wire on one side so may not be enough to solder those.

You really need the sockets to hold the PCB down and hold the LED straight in the fixture. Also these OEM sockets are made for the thicker plastic and have the taps placed at
the correct angle for the PCB contact. Not sure if you can buy new sockets that would work.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was able to pull the green LED circuit board out by just unbending the wires. It has a 200 ohm resistor to limit the current. I played with adjusting that resistor and decided it should be a 1.0 Kohm. That brings the current down from 19.9 ma to 4.8 ma which I think will not be to bright for the turn signals and low beam lights. I have to think about the other colors. Probably the high beam light is also to bright but the red lamps you would want bright for your attention.

Anyway those resistors are 0603 size components and I don't have those in my parts or junk box. I will have to order some.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was wrong on the resistor size. They are 0805 which I use almost exclusively. The blue uses a 200 ohm, the red a 390 ohm and the amber a 390 ohm. I tested them all with 1.00 Kohm and they all look around 5 or 6 ma. So that is what I'm going to use on all the indicator bulbs. The alternator remains the incandescent bulb.

[Helirich]

Would be nice if you could take a pic before and after in the same lighting conditions.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Would be nice if you could take a pic before and after in the same lighting conditions.

I don't think I would want to put the bulbs back in for a photo. It was completely stock. I'm thinking the 5 illumination LEDs are going to be to bright. Not sure if PWM can dim those switching regulator LEDs so I may have to change those. It's not much work to change the resistors in the indicator LEDs. I'm also replacing the wire for more length so I can solder those to the PCB copper.