Do they need to be clipped in?
I would be more than happy to come by after work and take some springs off your hands too if you'll be home.
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Do they need to be clipped in?
I would be more than happy to come by after work and take some springs off your hands too if you'll be home.
So, interesting fact I learned today: a piece of 2" pipe bent properly to go from the output of the cat out through the muffler exit on the driver's side is nowhere NEAR as loud as I expected. And because of this- and the fact it's impossible to get the new exhaust on and finish everything else up and test it all out- I'll be heading out East with just that straight pipe and no muffler. I have my suspicions that my cat is hollow and is partially acting like a muffler anyway. :P
Since I've been completely unable to find a 1/8" NPT hose barb locally and can't get one in from elsewhere fast enough, I think I'm going to tee the cruise control vacuum off the spark advance line. It's closest to the cruise unit, and is also the closest in size to the line that goes to the cruise unit.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
You don't want ported vacuum for the cruise bucket; you want manifold vacuum. Put a T in your brake booster or HVAC vacuum line instead.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Hmmm. I'm kind of loathe to T into the brake booster line, especially since the cruise installation expressly warns not to. Not that I don't think I could stop the car if the cruise sapped all the vacuum boost to the brakes mind you, but still. How about the crankcase vent/PCV connection? Is that manifold or ported vacuum? I could T into that between the carb and the valve.
Here's where the cruise bucket is mounted in my setup (doesn't matter for this since vacuum line is cheap, but I took the picture, so :P)
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Also, for a laugh:
The finest "performance" exhaust system $50 will buy. :P
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Posts: 1,068
I find it hard to believe that nobody in a big city like Lexington sells barbed hose fittings.
You all are making this way more complicated than it needs to be.
(BTW: I am talking about the port that Farrar and Garen use for their modulator valves -- for 5 speed users that port is just lying fallow).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Oh, I can find no shortage of barbed hose fittings- in sizes larger than 1/8" NPT. Nobody has anything more than a plug or a coupler in 1/8". Home Depot literally has like 3 1/8" NPT items. I'm going to check with some specialty plumbing places today in hopes they'll have one, but I don't know how many will be open. It's just not that common of a part it seems for most places to think it profitable to stock them...
Posts: 1,068
1/8 is not an uncommon size. Your PCV valve came with 1/8 threads. Your carburetor uses 1/8 fittings (the 4100 I just installed on a school bus has threads on its ported barb as well as the fuel inlet). Your fuel filter bracket was made with 1/8 fittings. The stock thermostat housing bleeder is 1/8 BSPT (threads are so short that 1/8 NPT will work). Generic electric fuel pumps come with 1/8 threads (you could buy a spare pump and use one of the barbs that comes with it, albeit 5/16 hose most likely). Etc.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Try your basic hardware stores or NAPA. But like Bill said....I can find them in Lowes and other home stores.