Hot start issues - do these details sound like my accumulator is bad?

[jackb]

I've been having hot start issues this summer, and I think it's the accumulator, but would like to know if there is a better fault isolation process. I don't have the funds to replace parts unnecessarily.

When I go to start the car, it turns over and fires up instantly, and dies just as fast (making me think that was the fuel the CSV injected into the intake manifold, and the lines to the injectors are still empty from vapor lock created the previous time it had been operated). Further attempts to start take significant cranking, and when it does fire up it runs rough for a few (4-5) seconds, then perfectly fine after that.

I let it get up to temperature yesterday in the garage (shaded, but almost 100* (Las Vegas) outside) and turned it off.
If I restart immediately it fires right up no problem.
If I let it sit 2 minutes it fires right up no problem.
If I let it sit 5 minutes it fires up on the second turn (key to start, ruh-ruh-rrmmmmmmmm) no problem
If I let it sit 10 minutes it fires up on the third turn (key to start, ruh-ruh-ruh-rmmmmmmmm). Not a super long start, but noticeably abnormal.
If I let it sit 25 minutes it take significant cranking until it starts. To the point that I let off the key to avoid burning out the starter. It does eventually start, run rough for a few seconds, then runs perfectly.

I tapped the air plate to measure resistance before each start attempt. It was very firm for the starts up to 5 minutes, and slightly less firm prior to the 10 and 25 minute starts.

It has the factory relays, and I 100% plan on replacing them with Bitsyncmasters as an upgrade, but fixing it mechanically is the first priority. As soon as funds are available the relays will get swapped as an upgrade/preventative maintenance.

Is my accumulator bad?
Any way to isolate that part as the fault?
Any other tests to run?

I did read this on DMC's support page:

The most conclusive test of the accumulator is to disconnect the hose from the end of the accumulator that faces the rear of the car. Plug the hose. Connect a second section of 1/4" hose to the nipple on the accumulator and direct it into a suitable container. Start the engine. After an initial spurt of fuel, no fuel should flow from the accumulator. If it does, the internal diaphragm has failed.

But when is it saying to do that? When it is cold and will not start (because the lines are empty from the last shutdown)? Hot and won't start? Hot and will start, immediately after shutting down?

Assuming it is the accumulator, I've read a lot about replacing it. Everyone says it's a giant pain, but it looks pretty straighforward to me... just disconnect the hard line while restraining the union, remove the bracket, and disconnect the two hoses. Is it made difficult solely by the tight access/doing it blind?