Sorry, the pictures is mssing
Location: France
Posts: 2,462
My VIN: 16951
Club(s): (DCO) (DOA) (DCUK)
Sorry, the pictures is mssing
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Pictures of the patched holes:
SANY0715.jpgSANY0712.jpg
For installation, I put a thick bead of silicone around the edge of each hole, and another thick bead of silicone on the aluminum pieces I had cut. I followed the instructions on the tube and allowed 15 minutes for the RTV to become tacky, then put them in the car.
I had tried to bend the aluminum appropriately to match the curve of the body in those areas, but upon installation I could see that each was less than flush. I had plenty of RTV left in the tube, so I applied a bead of silicone around the edge of each piece of aluminum. It was difficult to see, but I am pretty sure I filled all the gaps. The silicone takes 24 hours to cure, so I can test the seal later this week.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Near Toronto, ON
Posts: 1,211
My VIN: Previous Owner of 5875
Club(s): (DOI)
Found some of my new coolant hoses didn't have clamps on them. So I put her up on ramps, crawled underneath and replaced 'em. I also started removing the old crappy epoxy from the fuel tank closing plate to refinish with POR-15. I scraped a lot off, but there is still a lot on there and it's very stubborn. Any tips for removing stuck-on epoxy?
Previous Owner of 5875 - 1981/Grey/5-Speed/Grooved Hood
Drove it to Discount Tire where im currently waiting for the new tires to be mounted.
Jim Reeve
DMC6960
Location: Syracuse, UT
Posts: 638
My VIN: 2087
I refinished my fuel tank plate by removing it, grinding off the old epoxy with a wire wheel and grinder wheel. I also used POR-15 for the finishing touch. For pictures and a in-depth look at it, go here: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/201...ir-begins.html
Glory shot....
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369090687.224023.jpg
Jim Reeve
DMC6960
Location: Panama City, FL
Posts: 246
My VIN: 2861
Club(s): (DOA) (DCUK)
Began the journey that is the clutch slave cylinder today. Well, technically that journey began a week or so ago. My master started to leak, and based on the consensus that I have found among everyone here I decided to do the slave at the same time. Got the master in a few days ago without a hitch (so far anyway; haven't tested it yet!). With all the threads here that discuss doing the slave cylinder, there are quite a few good tips among the different ways that people have attacked it. I had some other jobs that I had been waiting to do that required draining the coolant (new thermotime switch, replace the clamp on the LH water pump hose), so I figured I'd take advantage of that and remove the hot water valve and piping to give myself a bit of extra wiggle room. Quite frankly, I have NO idea how people get this thing out without doing that. Plus, my hot water valve is looking quite suspect (extremely rusty on one side; looks like it could let go any day), so it seemed like a no-brainer to go in this way and just replace the valve and hoses while I'm in there.
Now, I said I drained the coolant, which is to say I drained it from the radiator. I expected that there would be a fair amount of coolant still in the block/head, so I fitted a small syringe to the bleed hose that tees off from the hot water valve piping and sucked out coolant until I started getting very little out. Sounded like a good idea in my head. Well, those that have been down this road probably know what happened next. With a firm tug I popped off the hot water valve pipe from the engine...and out comes a deluge of coolant. I had a drain pan under the transmission in anticipation of some leakage, but I may as well have attempted to bail out the Titanic with a coffee cup. Seriously, though, I did manage to catch a decent amount of it and cleaned up the rest (paying special attention to cleaning off the frame, etc.).
When it came to doing the slave cylinder, it was most definitely as big a pain as I had heard. There's just no easy way in there. Like I said, I took a mix of tips from several threads. I kept the hard line on and disconnected it from underneath at the fitting on top of the transmission. With all of the stories I found of those lines snapping at the slave fitting, I figured it would be best to handle that on the bench. Then, with fingers crossed, working from the top I removed both of the bolts holding it on. Luckily, they both came out in one piece! With everything undone I then pulled the whole assembly out from the top. Again, without that pipe out of the way I don't have a clue how it would have come out.
That is how it remains for now. I plan to put the new one in tomorrow evening, and finish it all up when I get the hot water valve and hoses in hand. Wish me luck!![]()
Mike
2861 - Aug '81, 5-speed, black interior, gas-flap.