I got my H4 conversion kit today and am super excited -- they are GLASS on the front, ladies and gentlemen! For $22.11 a pop, that's pretty impressive. I also got 4 60/55W bulbs for $2.50 each.

The fixtures have small blue lights which have separate leads which I presume are meant to be running lights. But blue lights are only for law enforcement, right? So I guess I will leave them alone.

Farrar

I did some math and calculated that the 55-watt low-beam filaments will draw less than ten amps when engaged, but the 60-watt high-beam filaments will draw 20 amps when engaged. Therefore, I will be changing Fuse #15 to 30 amps after I install the new H4 headlamp units.

Farrar

I went about installing these today:



All went well to a certain point: swapping the two positive leads in the low-beam sockets was the easiest part, thanks to a small flathead screwdriver I had lying about. I recall reading on the old DMCTalk that someone else's housings required the holes in the rear of the headlight buckets to be enlarged; this is not required with the units I bought; they fit perfectly with no modifications. I did, however, remove the small blue running light in each housing and cover the resultant hole with white electrical tape.

As luck would have it, one of the screws holding the passenger-side high-beam lamp is rusted to where I can't get a screwdriver or pliers to grip it and turn it -- and as I was trying to turn it from the other side with pliers, a frog-strangling rainstorm started hurling itself down upon me at vicious speed. So I have three of four bulbs installed at the moment, and it appears a long time to think about how to remove that rusty screw in the interim.

I did, however, make sure that the bulbs worked correctly. They do, and even in daylight and with my fingerprints all over the glass it looks very nice!

Farrar

Since a normal screw extractor won't work, I bought one of those "grab-it" things tonight at The Home Depot. I will try again tomorrow.

Farrar