+1
...the strainer had to of been bad for it to get in there in the first place...tolerances are really tight and who know for how long it's been sucking trash in there.
Location: Burnsville MN-Moving to Kalispell MT. in June 20111
Posts: 888
My VIN: 2691
Dave, Ron like I said i've not tried it, but it could be a good emergency attempt to get home if your pump locked up. You're right the pickup screen would have to be bad to let in trash.
Been there, done that (was in the dunes in the UP...Michigan) - miles from nowhere.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
You mean this one?
http://www.britishwiring.com/2-Way-3...tor-p/c822.htm
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Awesome find Farrar, thanks.
I only had a few minutes to play with the car so tested the volts one more time. When I tested the volts last night the batter was pretty dead (only read 4.5-5 volts at the pump). I put the car on a charger/tender over night and when testing it again I came up with 8-9 volts with the key on and a jumper in the relay but still not a sound. I disconnected the wiring to the pump and just tested the lines coming out of the harness and got 11 volts so Im not too sure what to think yet considering the battery was not yet fully charged. I am just so happy there was a improvement in the volts considering I was terrified it was a wiring issue in the front harness. I still had that funny feeling of the hoses pulsating until I cut the power entirely. I know Ron, im going to run direct power from the battery to the pump once I have some more time. I guess ill have to wait until the battery is fully charged to get the best test. I almost want it to be a bad pump rather than a wiring issue for sure. Thanks for all the help as always.. Keep the tips coming!![]()