What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Shuttleman]

My torsion bars had been tempered with and you could see that a hex bit that was too short was used before because it was difficult to drive my hex bit all the way in.

When I tried to back off the splined bracket I realized it was stuck on the bar. I then had to make a puller that fit on the hex bit and extension because it had to be pulled while someone was holding the torsion bar tension.

Looking at the splines you can see that they are twisted and tapered.The twist is due to the splined being engaged half way and the taper seems to come from torquing with hex bit not all the way in and probably not the right size too.

Now is there a way to improve the splines on my torsion bars, the bracket will go in only with hydraulic press.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374807303.236168.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374807320.548087.jpg

[Shuttleman]

Just be prepared - you will eventually run into one where some idiot didn't put the Allen bit in all the way, overtorqued the door, and expanded the head of the torsion bar. This locks the bar into the clamp, which you can't release due to the window glass. That's when things get pretty exciting. And you'll wish you had a helper or two.

The other things you will find - stripped retainer bolts, cross-threaded weld nuts, un-welded weld nuts, etc. There area some pretty bad prior-owners out there.

That is exactly my problem! Got the welded nut too and also a big hole in the roof beam to weld that nut that cut a bit of the fiberglass underneath!!

Bravo!

[Bitsyncmaster]

My torsion bars had been tempered with and you could see that a hex bit that was too short was used before because it was difficult to drive my hex bit all the way in.

When I tried to back off the splined bracket I realized it was stuck on the bar. I then had to make a puller that fit on the hex bit and extension because it had to be pulled while someone was holding the torsion bar tension.

Looking at the splines you can see that they are twisted and tapered.The twist is due to the splined being engaged half way and the taper seems to come from torquing with hex bit not all the way in and probably not the right size too.

Now is there a way to improve the splines on my torsion bars, the bracket will go in only with hydraulic press.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374807303.236168.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374807320.548087.jpg

That spline twist does not look bad. Think I saw about the same on my car. Maybe just cleaning any burs off the bar and bracket will let it slide back on. I did buy new brackets for my car but I think the old ones would have worked fine.

[Shuttleman]

That's because it's hard to see from the picture, I tried to press the bracket in and out a few times but I'mis still far from being able to slide it by hand.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374837342.887839.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374837360.978061.jpg

[Farrar]

Went to a little meet-and-greet with some local owners.

Well, 66% local.

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[Silverbullet]

That's because it's hard to see from the picture, I tried to press the bracket in and out a few times but I'mis still far from being able to slide it by hand.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1374837342.887839.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1374837360.978061.jpg

I would use a small jewlers diamond file, clean it up as best as you can, untill it slides on...

Craig

[DavidProehl]

Installed some Infinity 32.9cf speakers I bought off eBay to replace the Craig speakers in the front. The 32.9cf speakers are no longer being made, but are fantastic. Huge improvement! The original Craig radio has no problem powering them.

I'll need to replace the rears as well, but those are harder to get to, is there a good "How To" on that? I've seen one off posts about using a heat gun or exacto knife to remove the rear panels, but no specific directions. Ideally I'd like to use a heat gun since I don't like the idea of cutting into the panels, but I've heard they don't reattach very well after being heated. Not sure if that is true or not.

[DMCMW Dave]

....... Ideally I'd like to use a heat gun since I don't like the idea of cutting into the panels, but I've heard they don't reattach very well after being heated. Not sure if that is true or not.

Heat them. Whatever you do, don't cut them, they cannot be repaired. I don't know who is giving out the exacto knife info but they should be slapped.

They reattach just fine after heating, and the original glue will actually still adhere (and the weather-strip holds it together).

[DavidProehl]

Heat them. Whatever you do, don't cut them, they cannot be repaired. I don't know who is giving out the exacto knife info but they should be slapped.

They reattach just fine after heating, and the original glue will actually still adhere (and the weather-strip holds it together).

Thanks Dave! I figured as much. The thought of cutting into an unavailable part seemed like blasphemy. Is it just a matter of careful heating once the parcel shelf, seats, weather stripping, and anything else in the way is removed?

[Tillsy]

Thanks Dave! I figured as much. The thought of cutting into an unavailable part seemed like blasphemy. Is it just a matter of careful heating once the parcel shelf, seats, weather stripping, and anything else in the way is removed?

You only need remove the weather stripping, around four screws (one top and three-ish at bottom), and the seatbelt bolt cover.