What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[DMC5180]

Well thanks for the tip, I will definitely pass it on to the guy who is going to do it for me. I have never removed a broken bolt and I dont plan to practice on my car...lol

The reason that one seems to break is due to corrosion which is precipitated from the steel coolant pipe tab under the bolt head. It is a bit like cancer, it starts on the pipe and migrates onto the bolt then into the aluminum casting where corrosion process turns the aluminum into a thick oxide layer (seizing the shank of the bolt to the Y-pipe).

I have had good luck removing that Broken bolt in the past. The trick is to get the Y-PIPE loose. Apply a good penetrant on the broken bolt and let soak. (I prefer Aero Kroil) Then with the other bolts out, you can Twist the Y-pipe a little to hopefully release the casting from the bolt stub and remove the pipe. Worst case you may have too Step drill the bolt somewhat to Full diameter. Depth is important. The goal being not to drill the bolt out, but rather just into it enough to get the Y-pipe OFF. With the y-pipe out of the way, hopefully there is still a fair amount of bolt shank sticking above the Threaded Case hole. At this point a couple things can be done to remove the bolt stub. Both require HEAT. When I did this I used a Very HOT HEAT GUN with a concentrating TIP. An Oxy/Acetylene torch would be Ideal or a Simple Bottle torch (I prefer MAPP gas [it's Hotter] over Propane) would work too. I simply applied heat to the Casting Boss. Then with a good VISE-GRIP clamped on the exposed STUB I was able to get it to come loose, Rocking back and forth, it took several bites (repositions of the Vise-Grip) But it eventually came out. Once out a chased the casting hole with the appropriate M7 x 1.00 TAP to clean the threads.

An alternate method would be to MIG weld a nut to the bolt shank. The HEAT transfer will also shock and cook any corrosion that may be down in the thread zone.

If the above is not doable because the bolt shank snapped Flush to the case, then you will need to drill into the CENTER of the bolt and carefully step it out for the appropriate Screw EXTRACTOR. You MAY still need to use some heat to get the threads to release (unless you a very lucky with penetrating oil)

GOOD LUCK

[NightFlyer]

Took a tow-truck ride thanks to a ruptured fuel hard-line (tank/pump to accumulator, part #106983) during rush hour traffic in downtown Lansing.

[Kenny_Z]

If the above is not doable because the bolt shank snapped Flush to the case, then you will need to drill into the CENTER of the bolt and carefully step it out for the appropriate Screw EXTRACTOR. You MAY still need to use some heat to get the threads to release (unless you a very lucky with penetrating oil)

GOOD LUCK

Before I trying the screw extractor I'd try welding a washer to the bit of bolt and then a nut to that washer. Like this: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?56...using-a-welder You can still drill through if that doesn't work but if you break off a screw extractor you are beyond screwed. Pun intended.

[jawn101]

Took a tow-truck ride thanks to a ruptured fuel hard-line (tank/pump to accumulator, part #106983) during rush hour traffic in downtown Lansing.

Ouch! Sorry to hear it. The hard line itself gave out? Can't say I've ever heard of that happening. Good luck with the fix...

[NightFlyer]

Ouch! Sorry to hear it. The hard line itself gave out? Can't say I've ever heard of that happening. Good luck with the fix...

Split/ruptured mid-line, about where the fuel tank closing plate ends. Must have been a defective piece from the supplier or was damaged during install at Dunmurry. Already temporarily fixed with a slightly rerouted piece of new steel hardline. A proper repair and replacement of all fuel lines will occur over winter hibernation. I plan on doing all stainless hard-lines and teflon lined braided stainless soft lines.

[Jonathan]

Split/ruptured mid-line, about where the fuel tank closing plate ends. Must have been a defective piece from the supplier or was damaged during install at Dunmurry. Already temporarily fixed with a slightly rerouted piece of new steel hardline. A proper repair and replacement of all fuel lines will occur over winter hibernation. I plan on doing all stainless hard-lines and teflon lined braided stainless soft lines.

Are any of these hard fuel lines the ones which would require the body to be lifted up slightly off the frame to get at and replace? I don't know from my own experience, I just heard that sort of comment at one point...

I need to replace my fuel filter one of these days and I don't need to snap anything borderline impossible to fix in the process. We broke a hard fuel line a couple seasons ago doing the accumulator, but that pin hole was in an accessible area. If one line got twisted enough to leak/develop a pin hole, my assumption would be the rest of them could be candidates as well.

[Jack]

Rear Brake Calipers de-dusting with mean green and de-rusting with apple cider vinegar.

[NightFlyer]

Are any of these hard fuel lines the ones which would require the body to be lifted up slightly off the frame to get at and replace? I don't know from my own experience, I just heard that sort of comment at one point...

I need to replace my fuel filter one of these days and I don't need to snap anything borderline impossible to fix in the process. We broke a hard fuel line a couple seasons ago doing the accumulator, but that pin hole was in an accessible area. If one line got twisted enough to leak/develop a pin hole, my assumption would be the rest of them could be candidates as well.

Yes, in order to properly change the line that failed on me, a body/frame separation would be necessary.

I'm not sure if such is required with the steel hard line that runs from the accumulator to the fuel filter, or if it can be finagled into place without having to do this. With that said, it's much easier to simply run a teflon-lined braided stainless soft line between the accumulator and the fuel filter, should the stock/OEM steel hard line ever get damaged or fail on you.

[DMCMW Dave]

Yes, in order to properly change the line that failed on me, a body/frame separation would be necessary.

I'm not sure if such is required with the steel hard line that runs from the accumulator to the fuel filter, or if it can be finagled into place without having to do this. With that said, it's much easier to simply run a teflon-lined braided stainless soft line between the accumulator and the fuel filter, should the stock/OEM steel hard line ever get damaged or fail on you.

That line can be snaked in from the front by slightly lifting the body, it doesn't have to be raised much.

The accumulator to the filter is the really nasty one.

[NightFlyer]

That line can be snaked in from the front by slightly lifting the body, it doesn't have to be raised much.

The accumulator to the filter is the really nasty one.

I was hoping that it wouldn't have to be raised very much - thanks for confirming this

As for the accumulator to the filter hard line, mine is still good, but I do plan on swapping out the original line with a stainless hard line over the winter. If it looks like it will be a major PITA, then I'll probably just do as I stated here and run a teflon-lined braided stainless soft line instead, as I'm guessing most people do that aren't undergoing a complete frame-off restoration. The line from the fuel filter to the fuel distributor has to be longer than that line, and the stock/OEM application for that run is a soft line, so I really don't see such a swap as constituting any kind of safety issue.