Originally Posted by DavidProehl
No. No pics. I was just in work mode!
Location: denver, CO
Posts: 131
My VIN: 3519
No. No pics. I was just in work mode!
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Wow, I can't open my garage door without taking a pic of my car... can't imagine replacing the doors without taking a thousand!
Pretty impressive thing to do though, most of us who've been owners for years would never attempt it.
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 257
My VIN: 4266, Previously 11056
Slowly picking my way through the electrical issues. Fixed... sort of, the interior lights last night. Got the parcel shelf dome light working properly with a new bulb and clean contacts, but the front dome light isn't working right. It does not come on when the doors open. It appears the "auto" function isn't working on it. I managed to get it to turn on at least. Some of the contacts in the switch look "off" to me, as if someone tampered with it at some point. Anyway, I'll add a new dome light to my wish list of parts. lol
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 280
well drove from new york to philly and back this weekend.
- passenger side wiper crashed into into the driver side wiper knocking it out position. fixed it at a gas station. took a while to get the positions correct. got soaked.
- noticed my voltage going scary low when stopped. had battery tested and it was bad. replaced it in philly.
- got pulled over for "veering within my lane" whatever that means. trooper asked for a photo of the car so thats really why i got pulled over.
- some weird noises from something loose. need to figure out what that is.
- MY AC IS STILL LEAKING cleared the clogged drain hose the other day but its STILL LEAKING into the footwell. maybe it got reclogged or its something else. any one have any ideas?
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 43
My VIN: 4307
After clearing my AC drain hose last week, it only lasted about a week before leaking again. I managed to get a hose around the drain hose by only jacking the front passenger corner up, and did not have to remove the tire. Ran the shop-vac to clear the drain and got a fair bit of water out again. Didn't leak for the rest of the weekend but I'm not holding my breath. Might take some positive pressure to really clear the line, but I'm hesitant to mangle the evaporator side of the drain hose in case I can't ever get it to seal again and then I really have a leak in my car.
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 280
Yeah that's what I'm afraid of. I used a vaccuum and an air compressor on the drain. Only lasted a day with no leaks.
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 43
My VIN: 4307
Did you apply air pressure from the evaporator side? My evaporator drain connection is still intact and I am trying to avoid breaking it. I figure it's not the best idea to apply air pressure 'up-stream' since whatever solids might be blocking the drain would eventually make it back down into the tube, unless I disconnect the evaporator side.
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,514
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (ADOA)
been there, had to do both my doors. not fun.
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 / Porsche 6spd 522 whp
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 636
My VIN: 4608- sold 4885- current
My passenger door shuts like a dream, but the drivers door seems to hit the back pin first. The seals are torn, so I should probably replace those before i go hassle with it eh.
Posts: 4,861
My VIN: 3937
Take the door seals off first and then make them close perfectly. The last step is to put new door seals on after you have your striker pins where you want them. You're trying to hit a moving target if you aim for good alignment/closing with bad seals in place.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
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