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Thread: Ignition coil questions...

  1. #61
    Banned
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    1,068

    Quote Originally Posted by stevedmc View Post
    Obviously you wouldn't get a performance boost but it should work just fine.
    You will get a small performance boost. High winding coils produce more secondary voltage than low winding coils can from the exact same input voltage.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  2. #62
    Tweedledumber DCUK Martin's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  DeLorean Cars, UK

    Posts:    593

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny_Z View Post
    Hey guys, I know I'm new around here and all but I've run a forum for the better part of 12 years so I think I'm qualified to speak on this.

    You've got someone here that's posted a thread looking for some troubleshooting ideas and it has since devolved into a "my way is better" free for all. If I didn't understand the ways of the internet I'd think my thread was just hijacked for some egos to throw their weight around and I'd leave the forum with an unfixed problem and a sour taste for the Delorean community in general.
    I for my part only argue with Bill when he takes to his soap box with inflated opinions (expressed with suitable Bill-ish flamboyance) which are rarely backed up by engineering fact. You say "free for all"? I'd say no, it isn't. It's a "free for Bill" - at least that's how he treats the forum in general.

    I want a newbie searching the archives to see both sides of the coin.

    Quote Originally Posted by content22207 View Post
    Are you calling the Society of Automotive Engineers, and nearly every car manufacturer of the past quarter century, liars?
    *sigh*. No, I'm asking you to prove that with your ignition modification, you achieved anything more than could be achieved with new stock components.
    Martin Gutkowski
    -------------
    Very part time DeLoreaner...

  3. #63
    Banned
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    1,068

    Quote Originally Posted by DCUK Martin View Post
    *sigh*. No, I'm asking you to prove that with your ignition modification, you achieved anything more than could be achieved with new stock components.
    This conversation is best moved to an HEI specific thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...tion-%28HEI%29

  4. #64
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Dahlonega GA

    Posts:    2,462

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Please start moving the HEI discussion to where bill posted: Here
    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
    K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955

  5. #65
    Senior Member Kenny_Z's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Gulf Shores, Al

    Posts:    1,780

    My VIN:    4534

    I finally beat the problem. I found that I was getting 12.35 on the battery but only 11.4 at the positive post on the right hand side of the engine bay. With the car running I got about 13.5 but this quickly fell as I turned on accessories, especially the AC, all the way to about 8 volts. As the car hunted for idle it would drop even lower. So I replaced the ground cable from the battery to the chassis (2 gauge) but grounded it to the transmission instead. To me this seemed to be way easier than trying to replace the positive cable. I figured I was going to replace it if I found the positive was the issue so I did it first. After that, I got 12.35 at the battery and 12.35 at the positive ground post. As I turned on accessories I only dropped from 13.5 volts to 12.25 at the lowest at idle (AC max, fans full, and high beams on). I also ran a 4 gauge cable from the front ground to a bolt I found (doing nothing) running through the firewall and grounded some of the underdash grounds to this terminal.

    A nice drive proved out the fixes. Now if she'll stay this fixed for awhile.

  6. #66
    Vin3299's Doc DeLorean03's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Eglin AFB, FL

    Posts:    1,603

    My VIN:    3299

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny_Z View Post
    I finally beat the problem. I found that I was getting 12.35 on the battery but only 11.4 at the positive post on the right hand side of the engine bay. With the car running I got about 13.5 but this quickly fell as I turned on accessories, especially the AC, all the way to about 8 volts. As the car hunted for idle it would drop even lower. So I replaced the ground cable from the battery to the chassis (2 gauge) but grounded it to the transmission instead. To me this seemed to be way easier than trying to replace the positive cable. I figured I was going to replace it if I found the positive was the issue so I did it first. After that, I got 12.35 at the battery and 12.35 at the positive ground post. As I turned on accessories I only dropped from 13.5 volts to 12.25 at the lowest at idle (AC max, fans full, and high beams on). I also ran a 4 gauge cable from the front ground to a bolt I found (doing nothing) running through the firewall and grounded some of the underdash grounds to this terminal.

    A nice drive proved out the fixes. Now if she'll stay this fixed for awhile.
    Well done, bud. This 4 gauge wire - I want to see this on Saturday at the show. I'm interested in this. So you basically just re-grounded the main negative terminal of the battery to the transmission rather than the frame? In essence, you installed your own "Hervey grounding wire kit" - is that what I'm understanding ? If so, I want you to help me with my kit when I go to install it!

    As for the bickering, welcome to the forum, futureboy.
    DMCTalk.org Moderator

    Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:

    Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.

    Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....

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