Location: NYS
Posts: 2,514
My VIN: 4519
Yes, I did it early this year when I was a new owner, but I think it's a PITA and too much risk of scratching the fascia (like I did.)
After dealing with all the different headlight assembly screws & fasteners, then comparing that to removing the fascia, my preference is to remove the fascia.
It's not only easier & less risk [for me,] it's also faster.
Reveiced my Fan Fail module and Fan relay back from bitsyncmaster and installed them right away. Working great again!
Checked my oil drip pan and I still have gear oil leaking out of my final drive even after giving the bolts along the split seal a bit more torque and tightening the fill and drain plug after filling her up. Drive shaft seals look leaky although they got replaced about 5 months ago. Might need to return to DMC NW to leave more money there.
Used my "Edding" pen to paint raised white letters to my front Cooper Cobra tires. Still need to do one more "Cooper Cobra" line on the passenger side. It still looked ok with the white color applied by my friend Dave, but it will not hold for long while the Edding stuff is really looking great and holding up (did the Passenger tire a few weeks ago).
I can provide pictures if desired.
Car started up after 3 primes. Have a weird start up issue since Dave (sdg3205) and I (mostly him, due to my lack of experience with the car and my tendency to break $hit. I rather trust somebody who did it several times before than me trying for the first time when it comes to high pressure fuel lines) replaced my fuel lines with the stainless steel braided ones I got from DMC NW. The car will fire up (after priming) and die right away after one turn when it got a rest for several days. The idle will be rough if it starts after several attempts and primes for a little while (doing the Marty McFly gas paddle during crank) and then go back to normal idle.
This issue does not occur if I only let the car rest for a few hours or one or two days. I have the feeling that something is not sealed properly and the system is leaking just a bit of gas somewhere to empty the lines or drop pressure (just a feeling). I might open a different thread in case that we cannot figure out what is going on.
Last edited by vps3922; 09-11-2014 at 11:16 AM.
- Volker Seidel -
The way I see it, if you're gonna drive around in a car, why not do it with some style?
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 944
My VIN: 6679
Major rewiring complete and AC LED panel finally installed.
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Location: NYS
Posts: 2,514
My VIN: 4519
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, Calif.
Posts: 2,235
My VIN: 0934
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Yes, it is.
Assuming your fascia paint job is solid, that is.
All you do is put down one or two layers of painter's tape (blue masking tape with low adhesion) on all sides of the fascia openings around the headlights first.
Then go at it, making sure not tear any of the tape with whatever tools you use to get the headlight hardware out and back in again.
After you reassemble then remove the tape.
Be careful on the vertical edges of the fascia just outboard of both of the lowbeams. If you do any prying to move it aside use a wide, flat tool so as not to tear it up. It is supposed to flex but it can tear or crack if you don't use a soft/wide tool to push it aside.
March '81, 5-speed, black interior
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 3,388
My VIN: thirty two 'o five
Club(s): (PNDC)
Went for a cruise with Dan O'connel (2991) and took along Homer the puppy.
Deloreans are amaze balls, but a Delorean AND a puppy?! Face melter.
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Dave
Here, somewhere.
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 944
My VIN: 6679
Went for a 100 mile drive to enjoy a custard berlina (yes absolutely worth it!!!) and ticked over to 18000 miles today - so that's 6000 trouble-free miles since restoration.
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Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,042
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
The Original DMCH aftermarket steering wheel adapter is 3.25". The MOMO EVO wheel is nearly flat (no dish). This combination only leaves about 3/4" space between turn signal stalk and wheel. Not enough room for my big fingers.
A quick search on EBAY came up with this 1/2 inch spacer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/390390084948...84.m1497.l2648
IMG_0457.jpg IMG_0462.jpg IMG_0471.jpg IMG_0475.jpg IMG_0474.jpg IMG_0476.jpg IMG_0478.jpg IMG_0479.jpg
Like the DMCH adapter, this spacer has the same 2 hole patterns. 70MM(2.75") Momo pattern and a 74MM(2.89") pattern.You mount the spacer to the adapter using the counterbored 74MM hole pattern with the M6 socket head bolts provided. This maintains the wheel position so that the 70MM pattern aligns with the 70MM pattern of the adapter.
NOTE: If you were too use the counterbored 70MM holes in the spacer to mount it to the adapter, the wheel would be off several degrees and would need to be repositioned to the steering column shaft.
The kit comes with M6 x 25MM countersunk screws to mount the wheel to the spacer/adapter. I did NOT use them even though the threaded holes aligned between the adapter and spacer, the thread cuts do not match up. I just reused the M6 x 12MM screws with the original wheel installation.
NOTE: I believe the latest version of the DMCH adapter is longer than the original one they used to sell. A spacer is not required for that one. I also checked the DMCH website. They currently show $0.00 (no stock) for the adapter.
Anyway, It's sure nice to have finger clearance again.
Last edited by DMC5180; 09-14-2014 at 04:30 PM.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, EPS, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.