Location: Maple Grove, MN (Minneapolis)
Posts: 1,432
My VIN: 05457
Attempted fixing a rubbing sound coming from my driver's side front wheel well that went away when braking. Pulled my tire, inspected pads and rotor, both seemed fine (only about 3k miles on them since rotated and new pads). Removed caliper mounting bolts, moved it around, and put bolts back in. Did same with brake pad pins.
Went for a short test drive and didn't hear it, but it came and went before too so only time will tell if it is really fixed. Here is to hoping one mounting bolt was just tightened more on one side than the other, causing the caliper to sit a little crooked.
David Proehl
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 3,388
My VIN: thirty two 'o five
Club(s): (PNDC)
I had a squeak from the drivers door that was driving me crazy. It was loud and persistent enough at speed that it would hurt my ears. I knew it was the latches and striker pins because when i pushed on the door with my knee I could get it to stop.
I used clear, thick suspension grease (from Toby's bushing upgrade) and slathered the pins and latches and gave the weather stripping a dose of silicone while I was on a grease trip. The drivers door on 4916 is now the quietest, smoothest door I've ever operated.
Dave
Here, somewhere.
Location: NYS
Posts: 2,514
My VIN: 4519
Haha, fair enough, I have 111.1 instead of 000.0....lol!
Before I removed the needle, I marked the position and I'm pretty sure I put the needle in the same spot. I'll try taking it off and re-positioning it....I'm guessing I'll have to do some trial & error before I get it just right. I don't know much about how a speedometer works, I'm reading a few mentions of something magnetic and some type of calibration...wouldn't be any of that, right?
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Had a go at starting the engine:
Even with the booster battery, voltage was not enough. Could be the result of the fact that I had only a trickle charger on overnight and most of the day after last night's reading of 11.1 volts ... or maybe it's time for a new battery.
It also could be the timing is so badly off (despite my best efforts to line everything up, including removing the muffler and turning the engine by hand with my thumb in the #1 spark plug well...) that it won't start no matter how much juice I give it, and the popping sound at the end was a small backfire.
Time will tell...
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Maple Grove, MN (Minneapolis)
Posts: 1,432
My VIN: 05457
Sorry to hear this still isn't starting for you. I know you've verified you have fuel and spark, not sure what else to look at. Have other owners been able to take a look at it yet with you? I know how frustrating longstanding issues can be. Eventually you get to the point where you don't even want to look at the car anymore, I just hope you aren't there yet.
David Proehl
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Thanks! I got there months ago, and decided to cover the car and not think about it while I took care of other real-life stuff. Now that I am not pressed for time, it's not frustrating me, fortunately.
I'll get there, bit by bit. It's just a matter of going slowly and taking one thing at a time.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 70
Farrar---
You might remember I went thru a no start problem also a few months back---still was K-Jet---finally came down to weak spark---just not enough spark to run---finally removed K-Jet, and replaced rotor, cap, wires, and plugs. While that far down, built an intake, bought & rebuilt a carb, fabbed linkage brackets, and the engine started actually first crank. Have not gone back to K-Jet, car runs so good now, but I am sure all my problems were "weak spark""---have you changed rotor, cap, wires, plugs---got to have a hot spark.
Leroy
IMHO, even though you cleaned the carb and verified fuel in the carb, it still sounds like no fuel in the cylinders to me (kind of a dry cranking sound). If you had fuel in the cylinders, even with the timing just a little off, slow cranking should have at least tried to fire.
Have you ever considered putting a shot of starter fluid directly into a few cylinders and then try to start it? Even a slow crank should fire a few cylinders. Then you'd know if it was truly a fuel problem or not. If not, must be timing, cause you verified spark.
Thomas
...
Posts: 70
My problem ---just like yours--no start----spark was there---just weak at the plugs---very hot spark from the coil----sprayed starter fluid in intake---still would not fire----even had a 50amp boost charger---not enough fire----changed cap, rotor, wires, plugs---ran first crank.. I still bet its weak spark problem.. Good luck