What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[BABIS]

Very Nice! What are you going to do about the rubber seal that insulates the filler neck from the body? I havent been able to find a replacement via DMCH.

yes I know that seal is NLA so I tried to repair mine, it had about 30/40 cracks on it and I glued each one and then I painted the whole seal with a flexible paint, I think it turned out quite good:

d3XXUB.jpg

[Trstno1]

yes I know that seal is NLA so I tried to repair mine, it had about 30/40 cracks on it and I glued each one and then I painted the whole seal with a flexible paint, I think it turned out quite good:

d3XXUB.jpg

Yeah, that turned out great! Good job!

[Jonathan]

Finally got the front and rear suspension pulled to start my rebuild.

How did your TABs (trailing arm bolts) look when you got them out?

I think those are them in the box in your second photo. Had those ever been replaced before or taken out and cleaned up? What's the history on your car in a nutshell?

Just curious as logging TAB failure/condition or non-failure is a little hobby of mine.

[jwrayth]

How did your TABs (trailing arm bolts) look when you got them out?

I think those are them in the box in your second photo. Had those ever been replaced before or taken out and cleaned up? What's the history on your car in a nutshell?

Just curious as logging TAB failure/condition or non-failure is a little hobby of mine.

Those are actually a combination of the rear upper/lower link bolts and the hub to trailing arm bolts. The TABs are bagged elsewhere with the shims (labelled so I don't forget which side and how many!), and since they are Tobys TABs they are in great condition

For your records my car had Tobys TABs put on in 2009 before my ownership. According to the P/O the originals were replaced as a preventative measure then, but were indeed bent upon removal.

[Rich]

Got into the driver’s door to chase some problems and perform upgrades involving the drop glass, the solenoid-lock and some door hardware. Photos added for items with asterisk.

a. Diagnosed and repaired a problem involving the door-unlock sequence. Using the passenger door lock, inside or out, would not always unlock the driver’s door lock like it’s designed to and it had been getting worse since last summer. Found that the lock solenoid, untouched since new, had become slightly loose. Following the Service Bulletin instructions (ST-10-8/81) I moved it slightly toward its center position fore-aft on the door, tightened the mounting screws, cleaned the contacts on the lock crank/switch and all is normal again. This repair also got my DMCH digital door lock module and remote keyfob to unlock both doors instead of only the passenger door.
b. Centered the drop glass on its carrier per Dave S's forum guidance. Thanks, Dave! After separating the glass from its carrier I confirmed that the glass was set incorrectly about 20mm too far forward in the glass carrier. The original sealant never moved, the glass and carrier were just set incorrectly when made. 3M Window Weld black urethane sealant is good for reattaching the carrier to the drop glass. Reference thread: LINK: Drop-Glass-To-Carrier-Attachment
c. Had noticed a leak through the top of the drop glass divider last time the car was in the rain on a road trip. As I worked with the door I could see that the divider channel was nearly detached from the glass. Pulled it off, cleaned the fixed glass and the channel, then used the WW sealant to reattach and seal it properly
d. Added the 3 plastic rub strips to the inside of the outer wipe seal for the drop glass. No sign that this early-VIN car had ever had them.
e. * For ease of access next time I’m in there: Swapped out the two original hex-head screws that secure the lower panel door pull to the door in favor of two hex socket (Allen-head) cap screws of identical size. Eliminates the frustration in repositioning those hard-to-reach hex-head screws with a 12-point socket and extension whenever I’m done with any lower door work. Yes, I’ve tried sticky tape and goo to hold the hex screws inside a socket. Now there’s no problem getting the Allen-head screw to zip right in.
f. * Restored the dried-out and stiff caulking that seals the clear plastic sheet to the inside of the door. Mine was almost useless after a few removals over the years. 3M Strip-Calk works great.

Everything works like new. Next time I have a reason to get inside of the passenger door it will be getting some of these checkups and mods, too.

Hex socket screw for lower trim/handle attach, old hex head screw next to it:


Setting the rear hex socket screw for lower trim/handle in place, also the new 3M Strip-Calk sealant for the plastic sheet can be seen near top:


Setting the front hex head socket screw in place:


3M Strip-Calk for the inner door shield plastic, box closed and open for reference - sold by NAPA and O'Reilly here:

[Jonathan]

Photos added for items with asterisk.

f. * Restored the dried-out and stiff caulking that seals the clear plastic sheet to the inside of the door. Mine was almost useless after a few removals over the years. 3M Strip-Calk works great.

3M Strip-Calk for the inner door shield plastic, box closed and open for reference - sold by NAPA and O'Reilly here:

Rich, did your pics get attached? I can't see them yet when I reply with quote, it looks like it is trying to reference them, but they don't appear.

I'd like to see pics of the inner door shield plastic and specifically how it is supposed to go as I have replacement ones for my car and don't know how they are meant to be installed. Thanks.

[Rich]

Revised the previous post - permissions for images weren't right. Jonathan, thx for asking. You may not see as much detail of the plastic seal sheet as you like but that's all I have of it.

Got into the driver’s door to chase some problems and perform upgrades involving the drop glass, the solenoid-lock and some door hardware. Photos added for items with asterisk.

a. Diagnosed and repaired a problem involving the door-unlock sequence. Using the passenger door lock, inside or out, would not always unlock the driver’s door lock like it’s designed to and it had been getting worse since last summer. Found that the lock solenoid, untouched since new, had become slightly loose. Following the Service Bulletin instructions (ST-10-8/81) I moved it slightly toward its center position fore-aft on the door, tightened the mounting screws, cleaned the contacts on the lock crank/switch and all is normal again. This repair also got my DMCH digital door lock module and remote keyfob to unlock both doors instead of only the passenger door.
b. Centered the drop glass on its carrier per Dave S's forum guidance. Thanks, Dave! After separating the glass from its carrier I confirmed that the glass was set incorrectly about 20mm too far forward in the glass carrier. The original sealant never moved, the glass and carrier were just set incorrectly when made. 3M Window Weld black urethane sealant is good for reattaching the carrier to the drop glass. Reference thread: LINK: Drop-Glass-To-Carrier-Attachment
c. Had noticed a leak through the top of the drop glass divider last time the car was in the rain on a road trip. As I worked with the door I could see that the divider channel was nearly detached from the glass. Pulled it off, cleaned the fixed glass and the channel, then used the WW sealant to reattach and seal it properly
d. Added the 3 plastic rub strips to the inside of the outer wipe seal for the drop glass. No sign that this early-VIN car had ever had them.
e. * For ease of access next time I’m in there: Swapped out the two original hex-head screws that secure the lower panel door pull to the door in favor of two hex socket (Allen-head) cap screws of identical size. Eliminates the frustration in repositioning those hard-to-reach hex-head screws with a 12-point socket and extension whenever I’m done with any lower door work. Yes, I’ve tried sticky tape and goo to hold the hex screws inside a socket. Now there’s no problem getting the Allen-head screw to zip right in.
f. * Restored the dried-out and stiff caulking that seals the clear plastic sheet to the inside of the door. Mine was almost useless after a few removals over the years. 3M Strip-Calk works great.

Everything works like new. Next time I have a reason to get inside of the passenger door it will be getting some of these checkups and mods, too.

Hex socket screw for lower trim/handle attach, old hex head screw next to it:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...7&d=1425755835
IMG_2787.jpg

Setting the rear hex socket screw for lower trim/handle in place, also the new 3M Strip-Calk sealant for the plastic sheet can be seen near top:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1425755847
IMG_2788.jpg

Setting the front hex head socket screw in place:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1425755858
IMG_2789.jpg

3M Strip-Calk for the inner door shield plastic, box closed and open for reference - sold by NAPA and O'Reilly here:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1425755874
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1425755889
IMG_2790.jpg
IMG_2791.jpg

[DMC5180]

Rich

The 3M strip caulk is the same stuff that is used to seal up the seams in the HVAC housing under the dash If for some reason you ever have to do an Evaporator Replacement.

[robvanderveer]

Today I replaced missing the throttle link safety clips with 2 clips I made from a paperclip. Best saved $1.98 ever!

Come to think of it, I may have a few laying about as i'm sure i replaced them with the door struts years ago. No idea about the size though.

[Farrar]

Resonators arrived today. By the end of the week I will have everything I need to construct the new exhaust.