Location: Poplar Bluff, MO
Posts: 17
My VIN: 4083
I posted a thread a few days ago about how my car had been running bad and got some great advice from everybody. I was hoping I could get a little more. I pulled my fuel pump out today and found the top sealing boot busted, the top of the pump covered in gas and the fuel pickup hose busted. I found a kit on delorean.com and was wondering if there was anything else I should get or do while I have it out.
https://www.delorean.com/store/p-102...rket-pump.aspx
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
If your fuel lines are all 30 years old it might be a good idea to replace all of them. Its not cheap, but neither are engine fires. If one fuel line is busted then all of them could be waiting to go bust as well.Originally Posted by jagee
You need to check the hose going from your fuel pump to the baffle as well. If it is busted you are going to need to replace it. If the fuel pump can't pickup fuel then its going to seem to be bad.
Some people prefer the stock fuel baffle. I prefer to have a tuna fish can directly under the fuel pump. Hervey sells a similar setup already packaged as a kit.
Hervey has lots of pictures of his stuff as well.
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-par...injection.html
Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 481
My VIN: 4692
The pickup hose is included in the kit. Really everything from the pickup screen right to the hoses connected to the hard lines leading to/from the rear are included. The aftermarket pump looks a little different but works fine. You need to reuse the banjo body (ring with barb you connect the hose to at the top of the pump) from your old pump, but its easy to swap and put in place. A pair of channel lock pliers are handy to hold the pump while tightening the dome nut at top of the new pump.
If you're not sure it's ever been done, it's a good idea to remove the baffle and clean the inside of the tank while you're in there. It can be done with the tank in the car, leaning over a fender, but you may even climb into the cargo area to reach all the way in. Take pictures inside the tank while you do it to see if you've reached back far enough, as well as to get a look at the tank.
you should also take a pic of the baffle assembly to see how it goes together before removing. (You need a 10mm socket to remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the tank. Do not overtighten when reinstalling)
The baffle needs to be disassembled in the tank to remove. You will need to squeeze the round baffle body and gently fold the circular base to get them out. There are also two metal clamps that help hold the pickup screen in place and hold down the baffle body. Check pictures below.
When you're putting everything back in place, make sure it's all lined up, and you won't need to rotate the pump when reinstalling everything. You don't want to kink the hose while making sure the feed and return hose clear the access panel.
How is your fuel gauge sender working? I recently cleaned my original one, and it works better than it ever has before. I sprayed carb cleaner into it and shook it around a lot. Let it drain out, put it back in place and filled the tank.
Last edited by Cory W; 09-04-2011 at 11:05 PM.
Posts: 1,314
My VIN: 03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car
Go ahead and replace the fuel pump harness http://www.delorean.com/store/p-7163...fuel-pump.aspx while your in there.
The pickup hose is really easy to kink when installing, if your not going to use the Hervey baffle (its not a tuna can, which can eventually rust and corrode depending on what you get - its aluminum) you need to be extra careful. Make sure the fuel level sending unit is out so you can get some kind of peek at what your doing when the new pump and hose go in.
Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 481
My VIN: 4692
That's included in the kit tooVery good call, though.
Location: Poplar Bluff, MO
Posts: 17
My VIN: 4083
Thanks for all the input guys. I'm gonna drain the tank tomorrow so I can get the baffle out and take a look inside the tank. I found a link to a video on here that showed how to install the baffle so I should be good there. As for the sender I'm gonna get a new one because the bottom of it is corroded really bad and when I tried to clean out the hole in the bottom of it, part of the aluminum just peeled right off. The previous owner didn't seem like the kind of guy who would take care of things like putting something like Sta-bil in the fuel so the ethanol in the fuel is probably to blame for that. I could tell he had messed with the fuel pump before because the cover was busted and was also rubbing the fuel lines. So its probably a good idea to clean out the tank. What should I use to clean it out? Just a rag and some solvent? I was also so wondering about the check valve. Is it located inside the pump or somewhere in the line?
Last edited by jagee; 09-05-2011 at 12:07 AM.
Location: Eglin AFB, FL
Posts: 1,603
My VIN: 3299
B12 Carb Cleaner and a couple red shop rags worked wonders for me (:
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Location: North Bay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 481
My VIN: 4692
Just some rags/paper towel and some solvent, yes. You should also have a spray can of carb cleaner to deal with any left over solvent. You'll know you're done when the rags/towels start coming out of the tank clean. Make sure you have everything you need so you can do it all in one shot. It's not the most fun thing you can do on these cars.
I've seen a thread somewhere before talking about how the new DMCH fuel senders don't read quite right. There are two small holes on the bottom of the unit. One hole already has a small metal screw in it. Apparently the accuracy of the sender improves if you get another small metal screw for the second hole. Screw it all the way in to get full threads, but leave it only partially screwed in; you still want to let fuel in/out. I did this to a car I've been working on, and it seems to improve its accuracy.
The new pump still has its check valve on the pump, but it's not built-in anymore. It's removable, and therefore replaceable if you can source one. (That's why the kit includes a dome nut. You'll reuse the banjo body, but not the banjo bolt off the old pump.)
Posts: 1,314
My VIN: 03238 Grey & Black Hybrid - Auto - work in progress Former owner 10902 - Universal 93 Raffle Car
You will need to pump out the fuel, there is no drain.
If you pump the tank dry you can damage the pump, but as your replacing it anyway... I'd pull the fuel feed line off the FD and put it in a gas can and then jumper the RPM relay and pump it as dry as possible. The rest may evaporate overnight if you leave the tank fully open.
I've never cleaned out a tank from a running car - should take 15 minutes with B12 or carb cleaner. Even with red rags, have some paper towels for the end - they should come out clean and dry at the end.
Note that there is a ground wire inside the tank that stays in place. To clean out the tank you will have to lay in the trunk and get your whole arm in there - wear something you can throw away.
Location: Fresno, CA.
Posts: 1,401
My VIN: 16409
A box of nitrile gloves will be your best friend!
Chris Miles
For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California
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