Yikes! Stay safe!Originally Posted by Farrar
Location: Dahlonega GA
Posts: 2,462
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Yikes! Stay safe!
eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
I'll do my best. I don't live in a flood-prone area, and the storm looks like it is pretty weak, wind-wise. But its path will take it directly over my place (slightly north-west of New Orleans), and it is slowing, which means more rain. Although we've been in a drought for a while, this much rain at once is not going to help!
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Since I can't do anything outside (for obvious reasons), I decided to "bench test" (in my case, "floor test") the new cooling fan circuit. I had some scraps of wire and connectors lying around, as well as a blinking red LED. In order to test "fan failure" I simply disconnected the relays for each fan in turn.
First, a test to see if the bulb lights when both fans have failed:
Next, a test to see if the bulb lights when one fan has failed:
And a test to see if the bulb lights when the other fan has failed:
And finally a test to see if the bulb lights when both fans are working:
Looks good to me, and I learned a few things about wiring relay sockets while I was at it, so it was a good thing I did this test.
Now I just have to wait for the storm to pass...
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 1,068
I know I did not see you turning the set screw that presses against your throttle plates (twice)....
Actually you do have a *LITTLE* bit of wiggle before you expose the spark advance barb. Just don't open the throttle plates so much that the spark advance barb is exposed, otherwise you will be shooting that 23 inches of vacuum you're so proud of to the distributor, which can makes things exciting when you shut the engine off.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Yeah, that can make the car backfire when shutting the engine off. This is another thing j know from experience.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
That is how I set the curb idle.
If you're referring to dieseling, then yes -- I have experienced this once or twice. There's a fine line between this and having the engine idling too low, but I've managed to straddle that line pretty well so far.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
The rain is finally tapering off, and the high temperatures are supposed to get no higher than the mid-80s for the next few days. Looks like I may finally have a chance to finish working behind the passenger seat later this week.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
...and that is exactly what I will end up doing, because I decided to try to start the car today and, even with the booster battery connected, I got ne'er a click when I turned the key.
I am now convinced that I have an electrical problem, and making sure all the relays have good contact is as good a place as any to start.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 1,068
That's why you have a solenoid wire in the engine compartment....
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
That works, but it's embarrassing to have to start the car from the engine compartment all the time. More annoying: the key SOMETIMES works, which means that the problem is intermittent... or at least it was intermittent until this week.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
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