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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #5641
    Senior Member Lenny's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    705

    My VIN:    6654

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Haven't driven the DeLorean since November the clutch went out as I backed into the garage. I just loaded it up on a tow truck headed to DMC Florida. You gotta love AAA Primer!

    It started on the second turn of the key.
    Thanks,
    Lenny

    DMCH New Build in 2005, Stage II, DPI Stainless Exhaust, Eibach Suspension, 170 Mph Speedometer, Xenon Lights, Wings-A-Loft, DMC Wide Angle Side Mirrors, 3rd Brake Light

  2. #5642
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Posts:    1,243

    My VIN:    10201

    Did a quick wash on my car but without proper tools I still got water spots everywhere. The miserable condition of the fascias has been keeping from me doing the proper wash and wax she deserves.


  3. #5643
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Hopkins, MN

    Posts:    328

    My VIN:    1121

    Club(s):   (DOA) (DCUK)

    Today, I was beaten by mine.

    I am trying to do part of an LED conversion. I'm working on the AC Panel lights. I have the panel lights and the 3 indicator lights (fan fail, defrost, and door lock) done. They work and look great.

    I was trying to replace my headlight and hazard light bulbs with these (one cool white and one red, though I wouldn't think color would matter). I keep blowing out fuse 8. I understand why it's fuse 8 that's blowing. I don't understand why I'm blowing a fuse at all. If I have one of the LEDs in either switch, in either orientation, I blow the fuse. If the LED polarity were backwards, I thought they'd just not work, not blow fuses... and having tried them both ways, I don't think that's it.

    Are these LEDs not appropriate for this use?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Alan

  4. #5644
    Senior Member Ashyukun's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Lexington, KY

    Posts:    242

    My VIN:    16655

    Not today but over the weekend... I unfortunately discovered that the driver's side bottom leg of the front frame extension (aka crumple tube) had finally rusted through and broken. ;_;

    That unfortunately means that the car is going to be out of commission for a LOOOOONG time until I can replace it given how intensive of a job that will be. I unfortunately have to drive it once more over the next few days to retrieve that cylinder heads for the car that I need running to take over vehicle duty from the DMC from the shop.

    Since replacing the frame extension will pretty much require pulling the body off the frame, I'm going to be trying to do EVERYTHING else that I need/should/want to do on the car at the same time- so it will be a rather different and likely much improved car when it finally rolls back out of the garage.

  5. #5645
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,609

    My VIN:    03572

    Quote Originally Posted by Alan View Post
    Today, I was beaten by mine.

    I am trying to do part of an LED conversion. I'm working on the AC Panel lights. I have the panel lights and the 3 indicator lights (fan fail, defrost, and door lock) done. They work and look great.

    I was trying to replace my headlight and hazard light bulbs with these (one cool white and one red, though I wouldn't think color would matter). I keep blowing out fuse 8. I understand why it's fuse 8 that's blowing. I don't understand why I'm blowing a fuse at all. If I have one of the LEDs in either switch, in either orientation, I blow the fuse. If the LED polarity were backwards, I thought they'd just not work, not blow fuses... and having tried them both ways, I don't think that's it.

    Are these LEDs not appropriate for this use?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Alan
    You need to cut the LED wires so only one side of each leg is connected. The wire wrapping around the bottom is causing your short circuit.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #5646
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2016

    Posts:    942

    Quote Originally Posted by Ashyukun View Post
    Not today but over the weekend... I unfortunately discovered that the driver's side bottom leg of the front frame extension (aka crumple tube) had finally rusted through and broken. ;_;

    That unfortunately means that the car is going to be out of commission for a LOOOOONG time until I can replace it given how intensive of a job that will be. I unfortunately have to drive it once more over the next few days to retrieve that cylinder heads for the car that I need running to take over vehicle duty from the DMC from the shop.

    Since replacing the frame extension will pretty much require pulling the body off the frame, I'm going to be trying to do EVERYTHING else that I need/should/want to do on the car at the same time- so it will be a rather different and likely much improved car when it finally rolls back out of the garage.
    Or put C channels on the side of the crumple extension.

    The Grand Canyon (failed PO weld repair):



    C Channels:






    Not everyone agrees with my C channels, but they've served me well since 2009.

    Owners who test drive my car and extol its smooth handling are quite surprised when I show them the Grand Canyon, but think about it: my C channels are *STRONGER* in the vertical plane than the original crumple extension. Not only is the aluminum 1/8" thick, but it extends the entire length of the crumple extension (OEM 16 gauge panels are only a couple of inches long). Yellow paint and bent aluminum at the front is from beaching the car on a concrete island (there's a story behind that), during which time the entire front end was supported by the C channels -- prima facie evidence of their strength.

    Note that the rest of the frame is solid -- failed weld repair is my only compromise. If you have rust damage elsewhere a frame off may be necessary.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  7. #5647
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Hopkins, MN

    Posts:    328

    My VIN:    1121

    Club(s):   (DOA) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    You need to cut the LED wires so only one side of each leg is connected. The wire wrapping around the bottom is causing your short circuit.
    Thank you. I figured it was something easy.

  8. #5648
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2016

    Posts:    942

    Quote Originally Posted by content22207_2 View Post
    they've served me well since 2009.
    Correction: 2008 (autumn).

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  9. #5649
    Formally hmm252000
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Hillsboro, OR

    Posts:    492

    My VIN:    4099

    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ashyukun View Post
    Since replacing the frame extension will pretty much require pulling the body off the frame, I'm going to be trying to do EVERYTHING else that I need/should/want to do on the car at the same time- so it will be a rather different and likely much improved car when it finally rolls back out of the garage.
    You do not need to remove the body from the frame to replace the extension. However, the DMC shops do use a jig to hold the new one in perfect alignment during welding as you don't want to be on crooked and screw up your front alignment. Considering it's a critical safety component, it's just as well that you need to replace it considering the original was badly rusted to fail like that.

  10. #5650
    Senior Member - Owner since 2003 Patrick C's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern Michigan

    Posts:    1,237

    My VIN:    1880

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by content22207_2 View Post
    Correction: 2008 (autumn).

    Bill Robertson
    #5939
    I can't say I agree with all of Bill's modifications, but I do like the idea of the LONG coolant hose and eliminating all of the pipe and hose clamp connections!
    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880

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