Haven't driven the DeLorean since November the clutch went out as I backed into the garage. I just loaded it up on a tow truck headed to DMC Florida. You gotta love AAA Primer!
It started on the second turn of the key.
Haven't driven the DeLorean since November the clutch went out as I backed into the garage. I just loaded it up on a tow truck headed to DMC Florida. You gotta love AAA Primer!
It started on the second turn of the key.
Thanks,
Lenny
DMCH New Build in 2005, Stage II, DPI Stainless Exhaust, Eibach Suspension, 170 Mph Speedometer, Xenon Lights, Wings-A-Loft, DMC Wide Angle Side Mirrors, 3rd Brake Light
Location: Hopkins, MN
Posts: 328
My VIN: 1121
Club(s): (DOA) (DCUK)
Today, I was beaten by mine.
I am trying to do part of an LED conversion. I'm working on the AC Panel lights. I have the panel lights and the 3 indicator lights (fan fail, defrost, and door lock) done. They work and look great.
I was trying to replace my headlight and hazard light bulbs with these (one cool white and one red, though I wouldn't think color would matter). I keep blowing out fuse 8. I understand why it's fuse 8 that's blowing. I don't understand why I'm blowing a fuse at all. If I have one of the LEDs in either switch, in either orientation, I blow the fuse. If the LED polarity were backwards, I thought they'd just not work, not blow fuses... and having tried them both ways, I don't think that's it.
Are these LEDs not appropriate for this use?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Alan
Not today but over the weekend... I unfortunately discovered that the driver's side bottom leg of the front frame extension (aka crumple tube) had finally rusted through and broken. ;_;
That unfortunately means that the car is going to be out of commission for a LOOOOONG time until I can replace it given how intensive of a job that will be. I unfortunately have to drive it once more over the next few days to retrieve that cylinder heads for the car that I need running to take over vehicle duty from the DMC from the shop.
Since replacing the frame extension will pretty much require pulling the body off the frame, I'm going to be trying to do EVERYTHING else that I need/should/want to do on the car at the same time- so it will be a rather different and likely much improved car when it finally rolls back out of the garage.
Posts: 942
Or put C channels on the side of the crumple extension.
The Grand Canyon (failed PO weld repair):
C Channels:
Not everyone agrees with my C channels, but they've served me well since 2009.
Owners who test drive my car and extol its smooth handling are quite surprised when I show them the Grand Canyon, but think about it: my C channels are *STRONGER* in the vertical plane than the original crumple extension. Not only is the aluminum 1/8" thick, but it extends the entire length of the crumple extension (OEM 16 gauge panels are only a couple of inches long). Yellow paint and bent aluminum at the front is from beaching the car on a concrete island (there's a story behind that), during which time the entire front end was supported by the C channels -- prima facie evidence of their strength.
Note that the rest of the frame is solid -- failed weld repair is my only compromise. If you have rust damage elsewhere a frame off may be necessary.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Hopkins, MN
Posts: 328
My VIN: 1121
Club(s): (DOA) (DCUK)
Posts: 942
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 492
My VIN: 4099
Club(s): (PNDC)
You do not need to remove the body from the frame to replace the extension. However, the DMC shops do use a jig to hold the new one in perfect alignment during welding as you don't want to be on crooked and screw up your front alignment. Considering it's a critical safety component, it's just as well that you need to replace it considering the original was badly rusted to fail like that.