No snap right required. High tolerance press fit.
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,613
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
No snap right required. High tolerance press fit.
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters
Location: Bunker Hill, West Virginia
Posts: 728
My VIN: 11035
Well that answers that lol!
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Vin 11035 wide stripe, flat hood, 5 speed, Spec 1 exhaust, custom grey/black interior, custom lighting, custom stereo and custom alot of stuff!
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 418
My VIN: 6472
Sounds goodOriginally Posted by Delorean Industries
thank you!
Location: CLE/PHX
Posts: 2,613
My VIN: 5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538
Sorry Greg I thought I answered your last email.
www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 418
My VIN: 6472
No problemo, I appreciate the help. Because it's a suspension component, I just wanted to be sure I'm not missing anything critical.
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,181
My VIN: Former owner of 1098
Club(s): (DCF)
I just completed a suspension rebuild on 1098 that lasted the better part of 10 weeks.
A couple of months ago, I had the opportunity to "swap" my stock springs for a set of Eibachs, and I jumped at the chance. After a lot of thought about what to do "while i'm in there", I came to the conclusion that this is a job I only wanted to do once. As such, I decided to go with poly bushings up front, Toby's poly sway bar kit, new performance shocks, Ed's LCA brackets, new ball joints, new angle drive and lower cable, and powder coated and re-plated arms, knuckles, brackets and the like. Here's a few pics of all the bits before assembly:
IMG_0164.jpgIMG_0167.jpgIMG_0168.jpg
Since this was my first time ever replacing a suspension of any kind, I had to take my time with it. Progress was gradual and involved many trips to Harbor Freight, ACE Hardware, and various Auto Parts stores along with a machine shop or two.
IMG_0172.jpgIMG_0170.jpgIMG_0174.jpgIMG_0185.jpgIMG_0187.jpgIMG_0199.jpg
A before shot of my car on the right:
IMG_0519.jpg
Final result after a nice long drive on some twisty back roads:
IMG_0205.jpg
From the ground to the center of the wheel arches it sits at 24" up front and 26-1/2" in back. By many accounts on here that is pretty much inline with Giugiaro's original design.
I have to thank many of the members here for their guidance and advice, especially Mark D. He was a tremendous help along the way, and provided a TON of pictures from his own restoration to assist me. He was also gracious enough to provide me the spacers needed to install new poly bushings into my UCAs and I am eternally grateful. Thanks, Mark!
The car drives and handles like a completely different vehicle. The ride is smooth, the steering is precise, and the car no longer "floats" up front! Best money I have spent on the car thus far.
Last edited by Morpheus; 02-03-2017 at 11:47 AM.
Brandon S.
2014 Honda Civic EX
2007 Volvo S60R
Posts: 578
Looks great!
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 849
My VIN: 5625
Very nice! I am just embarking on this as well. I hope to have the rest of my parts in by the end of next week. Question: where did you put the lithium grease in regard to the springs and rubber retainer boot? which side? Also, do you put grease on the bottom of the spring where it meets the LCA retainer cup? A little confused about that part...
You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a DeLorean and that's sort of the same thing....
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,181
My VIN: Former owner of 1098
Club(s): (DCF)
No grease needed on the tops at all. Just re-wax your rubber spring isolators and you will be fine. DMC-81 (Dana) did this during his suspension rebuild and it worked perfectly. Here are the steps he gave me:Very nice! I am just embarking on this as well. I hope to have the rest of my parts in by the end of next week. Question: where did you put the lithium grease in regard to the springs and rubber retainer boot? which side? Also, do you put grease on the bottom of the spring where it meets the LCA retainer cup? A little confused about that part...
1) boil a kettle of water (you may need to repeat this if you run out of hot water).
2) put the rubber isolators in a set tub/slop sink and slowly pour the hot water over them on both sides until the old wax melts away. Be careful not to burn yourself.
3) Wash the isolators afterwards with soapy water and a cloth. Rinse well.
4) Put approx 1/2 cup of hard wax into a small saucepan. If you bought Gulf Wax, this would be one of the squares. The canning wax is food grade, but if you want to minimize the cleanup in one of Laura's pans afterward, you can line the pan with aluminum foil first.
5) Heat the wax on low setting. Just enough heat to melt into a clear liquid.
6) Using a small artist's paint brush (with a head of bristles about the size of your smallest finger), brush the melted wax over one side then the other. You may want to do this over the pan as the wax solidifies quickly. Repeat with another coat.
If you get globs or drips of wax on the isolator, you can smoothe it out by carefully and strategically pouring hot water on it later. Be careful to not undo your wax job!
7) Let the isolators cool sufficiently before installing them.
The wax is widely available and comes in a box like this:
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I went a little crazy with it and they ended up looking like this:
IMG_0173.jpg
As for the bottom in the spring cup, I didn't put any grease there, either. I haven't heard any squeaking in the few miles I have driven thus far with it. Of course, YMMV.
Last edited by Morpheus; 02-03-2017 at 01:37 PM.
Brandon S.
2014 Honda Civic EX
2007 Volvo S60R
Location: France
Posts: 2,462
My VIN: 16951
Club(s): (DCO) (DOA) (DCUK)
Really good job
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