I'm running a set of his LCSs but still want things to be better than they have to be. I can't remember if there is any play in them or not. Its those youtube videos that scare me.Originally Posted by content22207
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
I'm running a set of his LCSs but still want things to be better than they have to be. I can't remember if there is any play in them or not. Its those youtube videos that scare me.
Posts: 1,068
Byrne's arms have absolutely no flex themselves (the arm itself does not twist and flex). They are made of fabricated, not folded, 1/8" steel. The spring perch is 1/4" thick. The ball joint sits in a 1/2" thick pad. They are truly massive pieces of hardware, weighing approximately 7 lbs apiece. I am sure a ham handed tow truck driver could use them to pull a car onto his truck with no ill effects whatsoever (none of my tow hooks were structurally sound, so I cut them off. I am going to carry some nylon straps to use on the LCA's -- common practice on older model cars).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Hmm. I'll have to double check things before I spend the $340 on outriggers. I'm thinking about taking the front suspension off anyway to do some painting. I'll pull on the LCAs then and see if they move.
The whole reason I wanted the supports was because the youtube video of a stock suspension scared me.
Posts: 1,068
Scary pictures:
ByrneLCAPics.jpg
Shortly before the old .com site went down, an owner (in Europe IIRC) had the end of his arm tear off. There is no good way to reinforce that end of the arm -- it can't be boxed in if you still want to be able to change the ball joint in the future.
OEM control arms are made of 16 gauge low carbon steel (slightly less than half as thick as Byrne's sides and top). Byrne also uses high carbon steel. If you're happy using fender quality metal for lower control arms, stick with stock. Otherwise, I can think of no better place to upgrade your car.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Last edited by content22207; 09-22-2011 at 09:33 PM.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Cool. I will wait for this part to break next.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Dahlonega GA
Posts: 2,462
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Only a matter of time, right?Cool. I will wait for this part to break next.
Farrar
eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Well, every time I spend money upgrading some part of the car, an entirely different part breaks. If I manage to fix my a/c without a lower control arm snapping, then I might start saving for Byrne's units. However, if I manage to finish the a/c work without some other part of the car breaking, I will just start socking money away for whatever part the car next fails. It's sitting right now, which means something will break the next time I drive it.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Dahlonega GA
Posts: 2,462
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
I get lost on all the things you start "upgrading". Last I heard your carb wasn't working right. Then you got a cold. What is it now?
eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
I don't understand what this means.
Location: Dahlonega GA
Posts: 2,462
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Fixed. Still getting used to this iPadI don't understand what this means.
eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955
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