Quote Originally Posted by smcguiga View Post
Hey Mark, what can you tell us about the gold heatsinks inside on the back? I figure we would probably have to have them machined but do you have dimensions you can share or the misc parts that are bolted on?

Also, how are the back panels held up inside the car? For anyone who has done a conversion, what is the best way to mount them? I had planned to do my conversion without removing the back glass (for now) and was curious about how others have mounted them.

TimeMachineGoldHeatsinks.jpg

Thanks!
Hey Steve, The gold heat sinks were a found part that was pretty much just bolted in place unmodified. I don't think anyone has ever found real ones in the wild, and all searches for the part numbers on the heatsinks have turned up empty. They were most likely part of some larger piece of equipment that has yet to be identified. For the A car restoration the real ones were luckily still around and were cleaned up and put back in place.

People have found similar heat sinks in the past with the correct dimensions. I think I saw someone on the BTTF prop replica builders facebook page post up a model file for 3D printing. The same thing could be used to machine parts, or have a custom extrusion made.

The parts attached to the heatsinks are rectifier diodes and show up on Ebay from time to time. I'd have to dig through my files but I should have some photos of the diodes so you can see some of the details. there are different types that are similar. Here's a link to one that is similar, though not exactly correct.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/72RA150-STUD...kAAOSw4CFYxFUQ

There are also smaller diodes attached to each heatsink besides the large white ones.

For the bulkhead on the screen used cars the largest of the three panels (DS) was held in place by screwing it to the outside of the car into the fiberglass. At the bottom of the largest DS panel and the small PS panel there were also pieces of L angle mounted to the bottom of the panels that were screwed into the parcel shelf to hold them in place. If you're not planning on removing the rear window then you can still screw the panels down into the parcel shelf but you'll have to make the DS panel shorter to end before it hits the window. The DS panel will also have to sit further forward since it won't be able to pass up through the window opening. Here's a photo showing how the DS panel is secured at the top and a screen grab of a CAD layout showing the three individual panels. In addition to mounting at the top and bottom, the three panels are secured to one another with some strips of aluminum that are welded on to the back side of the panels.





Leaving the window intact also affects how props will be mounted on the rear deck since you'll no longer have a place to attach the Janitrol tank, terminal strips, or have a place to connect the green Janitrol hose, red Aeroquip hose, and there's no place to route some of the wiring that goes into the "void" on the PS side that is open above the cars relay compartment. There is also the large zero can on the rear deck that will have to be pushed further rearward towards the engine cover since it hangs above the void through the space where the window used to be.