Let's talk modern replacement stereo head units

[joshg]

There are lots of options for sure, only limited by creativity
Here's a few pics from my recent upgrades during the build process:
https://imgur.com/a/rCe7lBg

-Pioneer somethingsomething-2550 head unit w/ remote display in ABS 3D printed bracket, using the blank canvas on top of the center console. The main body is in the storage box behind the driver's seat.

-Hybrid Audio 6.5" in fiberglass kickpods (no drill / no permanent mods)
-Hybrid Audio 2.7" / 1" mid/tweeter in ABS 3D printed dash mounted pods (no drill / no permanent mods)
-MB Quart shallow mount sub, soon to be replaced w/ a JL Audio 13TW5V2

-Alpine X-A70F amp for spare-tire sub & woofers
-Alpine PXE-0850S DSP + 25w x 4 amp for mids & tweeters
-PXE volume control in ABS 3D printed holder, replaces the dash rheostat (no drill / no permanent mods)

I'm usually questioned by other owners about losing the spare tire to a subwoofer. It's 100% worth it for amazing sound.
You can actually remove the cover to the jack storage & the tire can sit in the trunk without issue. For long trips, I just bungee cord it to the shock tower brace.

Good solution... was surprised that a sub in the luggage area would be effective in the cabin. aren't you sending most of the sub sound out to the street rather than directed towards the driver? I know sub frequencies are mostly omnidirectional, but the distance and stuff in between should affect the sound, now?

[joshg]

I didn't see this mentioned here, but a reminder that you need to split the speaker grounds with modern headsets, or it'll sound rubbish.

can you say more about this? i don't understand what splitting the grounds means.

[joshg]

wow... not sure what we're looking at here. Is the screen for the monitoring of the parameters also handling A/V? what's the head unit itself?

[MrChocky]

can you say more about this? i don't understand what splitting the grounds means.

In the plugs used to connect to the original radio, the negative connections for the front (and separately, the rear) go to the same
pin. You need to pull out one of these and wire it separately if you are going to reuse it.

[Helirich]

Joshg,

I don't know anything about the new stuff, but if your Craig is still working, I would like to buy it. I'm not a purest either, I just got a box of good cassettes.

[WHO1DMC]

Joshg,

I don't know anything about the new stuff, but if your Craig is still working, I would like to buy it. I'm not a purest either, I just got a box of good cassettes.

Remember the original tape decks are now 40 years old. The belts are beyond their life span. The flex cables to the screen are brittle. The grease is probably no good as well. They need to be refurbished or you'll just eat up tapes. I've had my car over 5 years now and I haven't even tried a tape because of these reasons.


Dave B.

[Helirich]

Remember the original tape decks are now 40 years old. The belts are beyond their life span. The flex cables to the screen are brittle. The grease is probably no good as well. They need to be refurbished or you'll just eat up tapes. I've had my car over 5 years now and I haven't even tried a tape because of these reasons.


Dave B.

The tapes are currently in my 30 year old Bronco. OEM tape deck. I think my Bronco had a much harder life than this car. Works so far. But your concerns are noted.

[WHO1DMC]

The tapes are currently in my 30 year old Bronco. OEM tape deck. I think my Bronco had a much harder life than this car. Works so far. But your concerns are noted.

Your trying to compare two completely different systems that are about 15 years apart in teck. The ford tape deck was a very good unit. No screen in the door and I believe by that time there direct drive or gear drive.

Not trying to start a tit for tat just pointing out some differences.

Sorry to the OP this is not what this is for!
Dave B.

[FABombjoy]

Good solution... was surprised that a sub in the luggage area would be effective in the cabin. aren't you sending most of the sub sound out to the street rather than directed towards the driver? I know sub frequencies are mostly omnidirectional, but the distance and stuff in between should affect the sound, now?

No, it's not an issue at these frequencies. The energy stays mostly in the car.

First image shows the uncorrected (no EQ applied) measurement from in car (drivers seat on my right shoulder)
https://imgur.com/a/6AENVGR

Pre-80hz the sub response is really pretty reasonable for "out of the box" and given that I've constrained the enclosure design to the spare tire dimensions.

Second image is the RH 6.5" woofer w/ a preliminary correction applied. It's fairly even beginning 60-70hz so I'll spend some time blending the crossover region between the two.

Some of these response valleys are likely semi-permanent due to the shape of the cabin and construction materials of the vehicle. I've not had much free time to tune & experiment but will be further dialing things in in over the coming weeks.