1982 Frame Off Restoration

[SupercoolBill]

I had one last broken bolt, well I hope it is the last, to drill out on the intake housing. I really suck at doing this. I never seemed to be able to get the punch centered and therefore my hole is not centered and often isn't drilled straight. I really hoped the piece would come out while I was drilling it but no such luck. I tried feeding in a tap from the back side but it just kept kicking off at an angle and binding up. So I kept going bigger with the drill bits until all of the old bolt was gone. Unfortunately this meant I drilled into new aluminum on one side of the hole (because my hole wasn't centered). One saving grace is that the broken bolt didn't got all the way through the tapped hole. So I decided to try the JB weld trick I had seen online. Spray a new bolt with WD40 or something similar. Put JB weld in the hole, thread the bolt in. If it works right I should be able to break the bolt free, thread it out, and be left with a nice threaded hole. If it doesn?t work...well I get to drill out the same hole again.

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[Helirich]

I would be more inclined to install a heli-coil. But I guess you can always do that if this doesn?t work.

[SupercoolBill]

I would be more inclined to install a heli-coil. But I guess you can always do that if this doesn?t work.

Yeah I don't like how it came out. It was an experiment but I'm not satisfied with the results. I found another M7 bolt hole on the same part that is also compromised so I'm going to buy an M7x100 Helicoil kit to go with my other metric Helicoil kits.

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[SupercoolBill]

This afternoon, we did the following:
The wife finished painting the seat slides
I made a coolant system air purge and she installed it on the car.
We worked together measuring the cylendar in the engine to determine what thickness shims we need. More on this later.
I honed the rest of the cylendars, and inspected them. One of them has a scratch in it. It looks bad but is very superficial. Also the engine had great compression before we took it apart which I would think it wouldn't have if it was really bad.

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[SupercoolBill]

I also decided to fix a seized roller tube in the air meter assembly tonight. This was kind of stressful.
I thought it was just a tube on a shaft but it turns out this is actually a tiny needle bearing roller. So I had to push out the pin, not lose the brass washers, the roller, or any of the tiny needle bearings as I cleaned, lube, and assembled them. The worst part, driving the pin back through the bearing praying that none of the needles fall out of place and get wedged against the shaft. The whole time I was working on it I kept thinking "Yup if I break or lose any of these tiny parts then I need an entire new meter assembly". Ugh...

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[Helirich]

I?m impressed. I probably wouldn?t have attempted that small work.

[SupercoolBill]

I?m impressed. I probably wouldn?t have attempted that small work.

My eyesight seems to be getting worse by the day. It was quite challenging to try to see what the heck I was doing.

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[SupercoolBill]

Tonight I received peace of mind. My running buddy that happens to be an excellent machinist agreed to come over and help us measure and check the engine. He started by doing something quite interesting. Instead of putting the cylendar sleeve in the block then measuring how proud it was in comparison to the block he instead did the following. He measured the height of every sleeve in several locations with a micrometer. Next he measured the depth from the deck of the block down into where the sleeves seat. He took the numbers, averaged them, subtracted one from the other to come up with the numbers of how proud each sleeve was in relation to the block. They were all around .002 to .003.
Next we put the sleeves in and measured the difference between the block and the sleeves. He had a little snafu because his tool wasn't zeroed so he had to do it again. Once again the measurements were .002 to .003. So we need yellow shims.
Before he left I had him check the sleeves inside with my bore gage. He said that he thinks the sleeves are in great shape with very little variance on the I.D. he said. .0001 max variation.
I figured they were good since we had good compression before we took the engine apart but it is good to have a second opinion.


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[SupercoolBill]

Last night I opened the door of the car to show my buddy what the interior looks like and was surprised to see (and smell) how moldly it was in there. The car sat in a barn closed up for over 20 years and it wasn't nearly this bad. I don't understand why it has got so much worse in such a short amount of time.

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[Timeless]

Last night I opened the door of the car to show my buddy what the interior looks like and was surprised to see (and smell) how moldly it was in there. The car sat in a barn closed up for over 20 years and it wasn't nearly this bad. I don't understand why it has got so much worse in such a short amount of time.

My car was stored from 2002 to 2022 when I purchased it and the interior is mint. When it's parked in the garage I leave the windows down - do that with all my non-daily driven vehicles. I like the idea of having of having air circulation in the cabin plus it's keeps the old car smell to a minimum. Photo from earlier this year - original interior.
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