I did the same thing a few weeks ago. The A/C works perfectly now. But I did have a heck of a time trying to get the refrigerant in at first. Then a bit of research and I figured out why.
Can you see why?
Screenshot 2025-06-29 at 9.11.21 AM.jpg
I did the same thing a few weeks ago. The A/C works perfectly now. But I did have a heck of a time trying to get the refrigerant in at first. Then a bit of research and I figured out why.
Can you see why?
Screenshot 2025-06-29 at 9.11.21 AM.jpg
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,042
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
deleted
Last edited by DMC5180; 06-29-2025 at 10:32 AM.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, EPS, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
The ends at the latch are an S bend, so no retainer.
Finished the rear latch modification. Not hard to do the mod but takes patience to get the latch out and back in. I swapped the lock and latch rod locations by accident. But when operating the lock manually I found that problem quickly. On to the front latch mod since the door is all open now.
Front latch mod done. Much easier since you can get your hand in there. Still have to put the dreaded panels back on. I'd jump right over to the drivers door if not for that. I don't know why they did not cut the unused bell cranks off the latches. Would make it a little easier.
ITS TOGETHER. Well the frame and body that is
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Brian
Bluffton, South Carolina
My toys
1982 Delorean DMC-12
2019 Dodge Challenger Widebody SCAT Pack
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD (Just a daily now)
1974 Chevy Suburban (Probably rusted away in storage by now)
So one of the things I've been doing while I was waiting on parts and had the interior tore apart. I went ahead and cleaned out all the old nasty glue from the carpets and put in this sound deadening foam. I'm skeptical about how much difference it's going to make and even if I notice considering I haven't driven this car in years. But I figure at least if anything. I got everything underneath the carpets cleaned out. The old glue cleaned up the foam and now I got good double-sided tape holding the carpets down nice and tight.
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Brian
Bluffton, South Carolina
My toys
1982 Delorean DMC-12
2019 Dodge Challenger Widebody SCAT Pack
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD (Just a daily now)
1974 Chevy Suburban (Probably rusted away in storage by now)
Don't know what they are called but I tore the skin from the top of my hand putting my seat belt on. Probably only a concern with owners 60 + years old. That plastic is not sharp but when your old, your skin thins and scraping anything rips your skin. I may pull those caps off and round the edges. I noticed in my early 60's that my skin has thinned (fat layer under the skin goes away) and any scrapes will tear the skin. I'm now 72 so really have to be careful all the time.
Edit:
Seemed glued on pretty good, so I just put some tape on the vinyl and used some 220 sandpaper to round over the edge.
Last edited by Bitsyncmaster; 07-03-2025 at 05:34 PM.
Slow progress.....for the record the AC box is a pain in the ass
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Brian
Bluffton, South Carolina
My toys
1982 Delorean DMC-12
2019 Dodge Challenger Widebody SCAT Pack
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD (Just a daily now)
1974 Chevy Suburban (Probably rusted away in storage by now)
I verified that the "whine" in my engine compartment with the key turned to on is the alternator. That is the only sound with just the key on in the compartment. I unplugged the 4 pin connector and the whine stopped. It's the power supplied by the "charge" bulb that powers the switching regulator in the alternator. I could power that with engine run voltage but then you don't get the bulb test light.