What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bumped each door torsion bar up a notch. They both open fully at 55 deg. F but the drivers side only hangs about one inch and the passenger side about 1.5 inch. I think I will keep that setting for now. Why would you want to set them more? It would just put more stress on the torsion bars. That is why I questioned the 4 inch setting most people state.

[DMC-Ron]

Dave,
Absolutely, no reason to put more torque on the torsion bars than is necessary for the doors to open properly. I would guess that there is some variation in the lift power of different gas struts. The 4" recommendation may have come from an earlier period where the struts had less lifting capacity. I have read owners describing how they swapped different brands of struts to select one that works with their door setup.
Ron

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave,
Absolutely, no reason to put more torque on the torsion bars than is necessary for the doors to open properly. I would guess that there is some variation in the lift power of different gas struts. The 4" recommendation may have come from an earlier period where the struts had less lifting capacity. I have read owners describing how they swapped different brands of struts to select one that works with their door setup.
Ron

Only reason to use more would be if your doors don't open with remote door poppers. The strut does not do much when the door is closed because of the angle, it is just pushing the door inward.

[Helirich]

So my trunk latch was not springing up. I had to lift the trunk while pulling the handle. I ordered a new spring. When I took it apart, there were two weaker springs on it. Is that the way they use to do it? I put the new one on and it works good. I have one of those back up cables and it?s hard to pull it with the new spring. But it still works.

I also got a new engine cover spring. My old one does lift when I release it. I wouldn?t say it pops up, but it goes up a bit. Should I wait?

I installed a new resistor in the AC/heat fan. Nice to have all my speeds.

[Rich]

1. No, the factory luggage compartment latch was fitted with a single spring.

2. To minimize the cable release force be sure the pivoting latch is lubed at its pin and apply some graphite or silicone grease around the bail of the hood latch striker where the latch hook engages it. That should reduce the friction. If it still is hard to release try adding a thin sheetmetal spacer or washers between the hood latch striker and the hood so the striker sits a tad lower with the hood latched closed. That will lessen the upward force of the hood seal when hood is latched. Just a thin shim job should do.

3. Not sure what you mean by just waiting. If the engine cover reliably releases so you can open it after you pull and release the handle then leave it alone. When the latch or the engine cover striker wear to the point where it takes an extra person to pull the handle while you lift the cover then adjust/replace the hardware as needed.

So my trunk latch was not springing up. I had to lift the trunk while pulling the handle. I ordered a new spring. When I took it apart, there were two weaker springs on it. Is that the way they use to do it? I put the new one on and it works good. I have one of those back up cables and it?s hard to pull it with the new spring. But it still works.

I also got a new engine cover spring. My old one does lift when I release it. I wouldn?t say it pops up, but it goes up a bit. Should I wait?

[Patrick C]

When I took it apart, there were two weaker springs on it. Is that the way they use to do it?

No, but it has been a common fix for when it is no longer strong enough to pop the hood that owners would toss a second spring on it. However, this tends to wear away at the striker on the hood faster.

[Helirich]

1. No, the factory luggage compartment latch was fitted with a single spring.

2. To minimize the cable release force be sure the pivoting latch is lubed at its pin and apply some graphite or silicone grease around the bail of the hood latch striker where the latch hook engages it. That should reduce the friction. If it still is hard to release try adding a thin sheetmetal spacer or washers between the hood latch striker and the hood so the striker sits a tad lower with the hood latched closed. That will lessen the upward force of the hood seal when hood is latched. Just a thin shim job should do.

3. Not sure what you mean by just waiting. If the engine cover reliably releases so you can open it after you pull and release the handle then leave it alone. When the latch or the engine cover striker wear to the point where it takes an extra person to pull the handle while you lift the cover then adjust/replace the hardware as needed.

Sounds good. Thanks.

[Helirich]

No, but it has been a common fix for when it is no longer strong enough to pop the hood that owners would toss a second spring on it. However, this tends to wear away at the striker on the hood faster.

Weird, neither spring was as thick of wire. They were nice gold colored springs.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have a bad wind noise on passenger side door when driving. Never had this before I removed and installed the fender after modifying the door latch bracket. I'm just guessing because the door is higher in the front, now the bottom seal is not working. They are real hard rubber anyway so I'm going to replace those.

[blueguse]

Only reason to use more would be if your doors don't open with remote door poppers. The strut does not do much when the door is closed because of the angle, it is just pushing the door inward.

I had this same issue.. I have not reinforced my roof yet and afraid of adjusting the torsion bars. I'm testing out a simple solution that seems to work and not very noticeable. I'm proceeding with caution as I'm a bit afraid of these getting caught in the door lock mechanism.

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