Adjustable rear links

[Helirich]

So my rear springs have sagged a little. While that sounds like a bad thing, I like the stance of the car. I had allready got adjustable coil overs up front to lose the off road look. I should do the same thing in the rear, but in any case, when the rear goes down the geometry of the suspension increases the camber on the rear tires. I know some people like those Hondas with extreme camber, but I hate it. Mine had visible camber.

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The answer is adjustable links.

I ordered a set of rear lower links from Delorean Ind. I don?t know how many of you have ordered stuff that they manufactured, but everything they make is a work of art worthy of displaying on your coffee table. These are no different. The proprietor (Josh) seems to have a philosophy that if it can be made of stainless, that?s what he does. I share this feeling.

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After removing the old links, made the new link the same length to start. Then I adjusted them shorter by 3/8?. This is the best I could measure on how far out mine were. These links are adjustable after you install them because they have right and left hand threads like a turn buckle. Note , the old links don?t look bad after 40 years and 100 thousand miles.

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On the car the wheels are square to the world now.

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You might see a slight gap at the top of the tire, but that is just tire bulge at the bottom. The rim is square.

[Timeless]

I ordered a set of rear lower links from Delorean Ind. I don?t know how many of you have ordered stuff that they manufactured, but everything they make is a work of art worthy of displaying on your coffee table. These are no different. The proprietor (Josh) seems to have a philosophy that if it can be made of stainless, that?s what he does. I share this feeling.

I will never give them another cent. I have never dealt with such a lying, arrogant, thief of a business owner ever. Many know of the horror story with one of my cars under their care.

[Helirich]

I will never give them another cent. I have never dealt with such a lying, arrogant, thief of a business owner ever. Many know of the horror story with one of my cars under their care.

Don?t suppose you have a link to a thread that describe what happened. It would be nice if he told his side of the story also. Not saying you are lying, but having owned a small manufacturing business and a restaurant, I know that some customers are impossible to please. 99% of my customers would say I?m the most upstanding guy they know. 1% of my customers would say I have no morals or ethics. Usually, it was people that have never owned their own business that have unrealistic expectations.

In any case, Delorean Ind. has been very good to me so far.

[glockworks21]

got a side pic of the stance?

[Rich]

Nice story and I'm glad you're happy with the result.

You might want to know there's a factory rear camber spec. It calls for -0.25 to -0.75 deg, which isn't at modified-Honda levels at all.

This means square to the world (0.0 deg?) is a bit out of spec. If the wheels really are dead vertical.

The specs are from K:08:01 in the manual. There might be an updated spec in the Tech. Bulletins - haven't looked in years.

Being out of camber spec L/R can affect stability.

An alignment shop can handle this. While you're at it have them check the (adjustable) rear toe (adjustable with factory shims) and inspect or repair the TABs. The measurement is taken with the rear crossmember 5.5 inches from the ground. The shop will jack or load the rear it to set that alignment condition.

So my rear springs have sagged a little. While that sounds like a bad thing, I like the stance of the car. I had allready got adjustable coil overs up front to lose the off road look. I should do the same thing in the rear, but in any case, when the rear goes down the geometry of the suspension increases the camber on the rear tires. I know some people like those Hondas with extreme camber, but I hate it. Mine had visible camber.

IMG_3353.jpg

The answer is adjustable links.

[Rich]

And as you mentioned when you showed the photo of the left wheel after adjusting camber, the bulge on the tire makes the carpenter's square move away from the actual width of the tire. The pre-adjustment photo you showed for the right wheel might have the same problem if the square is aligned with the tire sidewall bulge. That method can't measure camber very well unless you subtract a known amount to account for the bulge.

If you want to check the camber without a shop you can try moving the square forward or backward from the wheel axis (well away from the sidewall bulge at the bottom). And then do some trigonometry.

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[Helirich]

And as you mentioned when you showed the photo of the left wheel after adjusting camber, the bulge on the tire makes the carpenter's square move away from the actual width of the tire. The pre-adjustment photo you showed for the right wheel might have the same problem if the square is aligned with the tire sidewall bulge. That method can't measure camber very well unless you subtract a known amount to account for the bulge.

If you want to check the camber without a shop you can try moving the square forward or backward from the wheel axis (well away from the sidewall bulge at the bottom). And then do some trigonometry.

The right wheel was having the same problem. But I didn?t go by the tire. I measured from the square to the wheel at the top and the bottom. It was about 3/8? difference. Since the lower link attaches very close to the bottom edge of the wheel, that?s the amount I shortened them.

[Helirich]

got a side pic of the stance?

Not real low.

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