Posts: 1,068
Actually a saber saw *IS* a jig saw: http://oxforddictionaries.com/defini...+saw?region=us
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
DAMN YOU, WIKIPEDIA!!!
Mmmmmmmm, cranberry juice...
Farrar
Okay, so I don't know how this works exactly, but it looks like I may indeed have a leaky heater core.
When I got into my car last night to drive it to the new apartment, I noticed what looked like a giant greasy patch on the windshield. At the same time, when I checked my fluid levels, I noticed that I had lost some antifreeze. I recall filling up the expansion tank to the proper level the last time I drove the car a month or two ago.
Common wisdom dictates "Greasy Film On Windshield + Lost Coolant = Leaky Heater Core," but I thought that was only in the cool months when you're running the heater/defroster. Could the symptoms also arise when the car is simply parked for a long time and subjected to very high ambient heat?
At any rate, it looks like I will be ordering a new heater core at the same time as I order the new evaporator. Well, I'm told I have to replace both at the same time, anyway.
Farrar
Random thoughts:
While I have the system drained of coolant (required for heater core replacement), I might install the low-current radiator fans I installed last year.
Also on the subject of the cooling system, I have the urge to simply re-wire the entire damn thing while I'm in there, giving myself a relay for each fan.
Come to think of it, the fuse/relay compartment on my car is getting very messy; thanks to a melted relay socket, I have a couple of mismatched sockets in place of the missing blue one, for a start -- and there's more wire under there that has never been properly tamed. I could clean that area up significantly by removing the unnecessary K-Jet components (Lambda relay, etc.) for a start. I think that can wait for a cooler time of year, though -- for the moment I simply want to have air conditioning so I can drive the car some more.
Bill, I'd appreciate that photo of your cleaned-up fuse/relay compartment for reference, if you still have it and it didn't go down in flames with the old DMCTalk.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 1,068
Wait until batteries in the World's Cheapest Digital Camera recharge (I need to snap a new pic because I recently installed a relay socket for my modified headlight circuit to make it easier to swap relays if one goes bad -- when I lost the relay at Justin's house it was a PITA to move short leashed individual quick connects to the replacement relay).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Posts: 1,068
As requested:
5939RelayCompartment.jpg
I just noticed that the totally misnamed "main fuel relay" is still in place -- I'll pluck it out and throw it in the glovebox as a spare.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Thanks, Bill!
Just out of curiosity, what's that relay hooked up to the door lock circuit breaker as its unswitched source? Is that your new headlight relay?
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 1,068
Yep. Relay socket is of course the former rear window defroster socket.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Bill, now you've got me thinking about replacing the relay sockets and fuse box in my car. It's a mess back there...
... but I guess I'd better tackle the air conditioning first. *sigh*
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Speaking of air conditioning, I'd better stock up on R-134a --- evidently, the local Big Lots has it for $8 a can, which is almost half what AutoZone charges for it at the moment!
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)