Use Ester oil if you have it (It don't matter for wetting an o-ring), just wet the whole thing.
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,200
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Use Ester oil if you have it (It don't matter for wetting an o-ring), just wet the whole thing.
Last edited by Ron; 07-22-2012 at 06:12 PM.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,600
My VIN: 03572
For wetting the o-rings, Ester or PAG will be fine. It doesn't really get into the system.Originally Posted by Ron
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
The idea of sacrificing a $6.40 cent can of r134a sounds like a good idea if it will help to find the leak.
I was about to make another suggestion though, and ask if it is possible.
I have a small 3 gallon air compressor. Could we use this to put some pressure in his system to find the leak? If we could figure out how to connect it to his gauge we could give it a few quick bursts of pressure until he has 30 or so pounds in it. Then all we would ned is some soapy water and we should be able to find the leak.
Would it be possible to do this or would this screw something else up? I certainly want his AC to work so we can be friends again.
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,600
My VIN: 03572
An air compressor would work but I would be concerned you may introduce moisture into the system. I guess if your not leaving it pressurized for long it would be OK.
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Won't the moisture be removed when we pull vacuum?
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,590
My VIN: 06960
Its always more difficult to pull out the moisture than it is to introduce it. Compressed air from an air compressor, especially when run in a very humid environment will introduce a TON of moisture. Probably to the point of saturating the desiccant in the accumulator. I would either do the quick and dirty r134a charge, or find a container of pressurized dry nitrogen and use that to pressurize the system.
Jim Reeve
DMC6960
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,600
My VIN: 03572
Yes and No. It all depends on how much vacuum, the temperature and how long you hold the vacuum.
After all, a pan of water will evaporate left out to stand in a room for a week or two.
Your vacuum pump pulls the existing water vapor quickly but takes longer to draw the moisture out of the desiccant and oil.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Does that mean you just keep pulling a vacuum until you no longer see water coming out of the pump?
Thanks for the tip about the refrigerant oil.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,600
My VIN: 03572
The recommended minimum time is 45 min. My bother in law (owns an AC shop) will keep the pump on all night when he installs a new system (grocery store). So it's just best to keep it evacuated as long as you can. But with new oil and new dissident, you really don't need to evacuate it that long.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
I ran the pump for just over an hour. The gauge read almost -29 in. Hg. when I shut off the lines then turned off the pump at about 3:45pm.
I will check the gauge again in the morning, and if all looks good, I will pull vacuum on it again just to be safe, while I look for the wiring for the low-pressure switch and wire in the high-pressure switch. Steve tucked that wiring away somewhere and I can't find it...
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
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Dave M vin 03572
