Not if I never sell the car....
So here's what I'm going to do:
1. Using all 12 Gauge wire
2. Examining the fuel pump circuit, I am going to run a hot wire with an in-line bladed 20A fuse from the battery directly to terminal 30 (terminal that is labeled "Hot/Live wire at all times). That will take some of the stress off fuse #7.
3. Running a wire from terminal 87 to the pump.
4. Running a ground from the pump to either the horn bracket or the ground that is located on the flat part of the frame near the cooling fans.
With 12 GA wiring, that gives me about 15 feet of wire to play with, BUT the power for the fuel pump will be taken directly from the battery, sparing fuse #7, so there should be a bit more of give there.
This will all also be with DMCH new fuel pump/sender combo.
I feel safe and confident with this setup. If 16 GA wiring could handle this (barely) with everything on fuse #7, then 12 Gauge wiring with a separate 20A fuse running the fuel pump circuit to keep fuse #7 safe with a possible maximum draw of 10A (assuming DMCH's fuel pump/sender combo demands as much current as John's powerpump), everything should be relatively safe.
Someone say something if you see a flaw with my idea/setup.
This is my way of keeping maximum uninterrupted power draw to my fuel pump as well as trying to keep fuse #7 safe. I'm tired of watching it try to melt down. Something needs to be done to fix this problem; this is my possible solution to both uninterrupted power draw and minimizes the stress on fuse #7...
Oh, and don't worry Dave - I am not cutting or hacking anything. This will be completely reversible if someone decides to reverse it after I die (: ... It'll also be documented and photographed.






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