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Thread: Ask Bill about carbing a DeLorean and other K-Jet/Carb tangets

  1. #131
    Banned
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    1,068

    More 1960's Ford weirdness I forgot to mention: one of my 4100's has Holley size jets in it, not Autolite/Motorcraft jets (Holley jets have smaller threaded ends, so obviously it came from the factory that way -- wasn't retapped).

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  2. #132
    Member The Aviator's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fairhaven, MA

    Posts:    64

    My VIN:    3021

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    OK, I've printed out Dave Delman's diagrams and chosen which wires I need to keep in the engine compartment. Bill, can you double-check this list for me?

    Here's what I think I need to keep:

    3 - top right side of ignition coil ballast resistor
    5 - to primary (-) of ignition coil
    10-18 - the entire "red plug harness" since I have an automatic transmission
    25 - oil pressure switch
    26 - choke heater (formerly control pressure regulator)
    28 - a/c compressor clutch
    29 - coolant temperature gauge sender
    30 - oil pressure gauge sender
    31 - to alternator light
    32 - to starter motor solenoid
    34 - auto trans kickdown switch
    35 - ground for both tail light assemblies
    36 - reverse lights
    37 - power to engine compartment light
    38 - right directional light
    39 - from engine compartment light to switch
    40 - left tail light/license plate light
    41 - brake lights
    42 - right tail light/license light
    43 - left directional light

    My plan is to simply remove the stock wiring and run new wires from the appropriate pins, making a new and much smaller harness.

    Are any of the grounds in the engine compartment ganged together? In my list above I omitted a few ground leads, e.g. for the control pressure regulator and diagnostic port; however, if those grounds are shared by anything else, I suppose I would want to keep them.

    Thanks!

    Farrar
    exactly what i want to do! sorry i havent been around much guys, work has gone absolutely crazy... just came on here quickly to see if it still works

  3. #133
    Senior Member Ashyukun's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Lexington, KY

    Posts:    242

    My VIN:    16655

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post

    35 - ground for both tail light assemblies
    36 - reverse lights
    38 - right directional light
    40 - left tail light/license plate light
    41 - brake lights
    42 - right tail light/license light
    43 - left directional light

    My plan is to simply remove the stock wiring and run new wires from the appropriate pins, making a new and much smaller harness.
    All of the wires above are in the same plug/harness for the rear lighting (black plug)- wouldn't it just make sense to leave that plug/harness intact instead of messing with running all new wiring back there? Unless the existing wiring is really messed up...

  4. #134
    Banned
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Aviator View Post
    exactly what i want to do! sorry i havent been around much guys, work has gone absolutely crazy... just came on here quickly to see if it still works
    Is a PM still waiting for you? (June 11)

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  5. #135
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,047

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ashyukun View Post
    All of the wires above are in the same plug/harness for the rear lighting (black plug)- wouldn't it just make sense to leave that plug/harness intact instead of messing with running all new wiring back there? Unless the existing wiring is really messed up...
    I believe he decided not to run new wire. He was just trying to be fancy but you have to buy new wire in spools of 100 ft, so it would cost a small fortune to make a new harness.

  6. #136
    Banned
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Posts:    1,068

    As promised, Autolite 4100 versus 4 barrel Holley of some ilk:
    AutoliteHolley1.jpg AutoliteHolley2.jpg

    Bill Robertson
    #5939

  7. #137
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by stevedmc View Post
    I believe he decided not to run new wire. He was just trying to be fancy but you have to buy new wire in spools of 100 ft, so it would cost a small fortune to make a new harness.
    This is correct. Sorry I didn't respond quicker; I've been on the road for a few days.

    Farrar
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  8. #138
    Senior Member Ashyukun's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Lexington, KY

    Posts:    242

    My VIN:    16655

    Tapping for Vacuum on our carb system

    The cruise control system I'm installing is vacuum-powered, and as such needs to tap into a vacuum line somewhere. We don't have nearly as many running around as a K-Jet-fueled D does- where should I splice in the T for the cruise unit? I'm assuming there isn't an unused port that could just be uncovered and plugged into...

  9. #139
    Not a DeLorean Guru
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rochester, NY

    Posts:    2,405

    My VIN:    01049

    Quote Originally Posted by Ashyukun View Post
    The cruise control system I'm installing is vacuum-powered, and as such needs to tap into a vacuum line somewhere. We don't have nearly as many running around as a K-Jet-fueled D does- where should I splice in the T for the cruise unit? I'm assuming there isn't an unused port that could just be uncovered and plugged into...
    Perhaps a plastic vacuum tee, and tap into an existing manifold vacuum line?

  10. #140
    Banned
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

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    You've got an unused 1/8 NPT port with a brass pipe plug in it right next to the vacuum barb going to your HVAC and brake booster.

    Bill Robertson
    #5939
    Last edited by content22207; 07-20-2011 at 01:26 AM.

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