Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 242
My VIN: 16655
That's good to know! What kind of driver to I need to get it out? I can't tell with it in the car whether it's a hex or a square drive. Is it possible to remove it without pulling the carb? What kind of store would have the hose barb I'd need locally?Originally Posted by content22207
Posts: 1,068
Pull the carb off. It's only held down by four nuts.
The vacuum ports are in the adapter block between the manifold and the carb. Studs are in the manifold itself -- the adapter block just slides on them.
It'll be a lot easier to remove that plug and spin a barb in with the adapter block off the car.
Threads are standard 1/8 NPT. Lowes should have a brass 1/8 NPT to hose barb fitting in whatever hose diameter you need (they may not have 3/16").
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,327
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
If you are mounting the cruise unit inside the car, there is a perfectly good vacuum line that goes to the Mode Switch right through the ECU compartment behind the driver seat. Otherwise in the engine compartment, T-tap into whatever you are pulling that one from (Since I presume you don't have the stock intake anymore).
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Posts: 1,068
In a stock configuration that line is hard plastic -- not readily amenable to splicing into.
Cruise buckets typically mount in the engine compartment anyway, about 2 feet max from the throttle linkage.
HVAC & brake booster vacuum line is 3/8" -- if his cruise control uses a different size hose, he will need an adapter tee (difficult to source over the counter) to tap into that line. Why create a Rube Goldberg collection of vacuum tees anyway when he has a perfectly good vacuum port sitting unused in his adapter plate that can give the cruise bucket its own dedicated barb.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 242
My VIN: 16655
The cruise unit included a number of adapter tees including for larger size lines since it is a nearly universal unit (Audiovox CCS-100), however they do (understandably) strongly discourage you from tapping the brake booster line.
Ideally, I'll have the time to pull the carb and put in the new hose barb. Unfortunately, time is not something I have in spades at the moment- I'm leaving on Sunday to drive back East, and ideally want to drive the D.
If I get the car back from the exhaust shop this evening I may have a shot at it, but if it's not until after work tomorrow that I get it back, I'll only have that evening and part of Saturday to get everything done as I want to have everything done mid-afternoon Saturday so I can test everything out and make sure nothing goes wrong on a medium-distance (60 miles) drive before heading off on a 650-mile drive.
That said- if I don't have the time to pull the carb and do it right, which line would be best to tap temporarily?
Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,604
My VIN: 03572
That hard plastic line is easy to tap or fix. Cut it with a hacksaw fine tooth blade and stick vacuum hoses over the ends. Then find a plastic T for vacuum lines to tap into those hoses you just installed.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Good luck with this -- I never managed to get mine working. If you have more success than I did, please let me know how you managed.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,327
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
I've installed a number of them without issue. They were discontinued last year though.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
I'd really like to know how.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
I still think this is the best cruise control unit that money can buy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TeraF...Q5fAccessories
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Dave M vin 03572