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Thread: 1982 Frame Off Restoration

  1. #331
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2021

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    The other day I bought a length of coolant hose. I cut two pieces to put on the first to sections of coolant pipe where they contact the frame. I didn't get pictures of it but we strapped up the coolant hoses then held the closing plate up while we put some long bolts with nuts on them. Once we got the bolts in we used the nuts to pull the plate in tight.

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  2. #332
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2021

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    We received more parts this week. These came from D-go. I feel kind of foolish ordering all these parts from a company in the UK but I find their website easy to use, their prices are good, they have free shipping (if over $100 but let's be honest....it is never less than $100) and even though they based in Europe I get my parts faster than I would from vendors right here in the USA.
    So what did we get? The missing coolant pipe that D-Ind couldn't provide, the plastic clips to hold the heater pipes onto the frame, the black metal clips that hold the wiring harness in a bunch of places on the car, transmission mounts (the part with rubber on them), some fittings we were missing for the fuel systems, fuel filter holder, misc bolts and other fasteners, and the angle bracket that holds the clutch hard line on the transmission....S.S. version.
    Apparently I accidentally ordered two fuel filter holders so I am giving one to a local Delorean owner.

    I am glad that I decided to replace my transmission mounts. After I had the new ones I decided to get a little rough with the ones that came off from the car and the rubber easily separated from the metal part.

    One thing I will say is that rubber on the new motor mounts and transmission mounts seems very stiff compared to the stock ones. Not sure if that is a good or a bad thing.

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  3. #333
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
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    I am wondering if we should clear coat some of the new parts we have that are plated. I know that the nice looking zinc coating only lasts so long. Then again this car will probably only be driven on nice sunny days so it may be overkill.
    The other thing I am trying to decide it if I send out the new part we have that are already zinc and yellow chromate dipped to be re-plated zinc and yellow dipped. I have seen pictures of how the parts come out when you have them replated and it is usually a very bright gold color. It would be nice to have ALL of the zinc/yellow chromate parts on the car matching.
    Here is an example. the first pic is a picture of a part I had plated locally and the next are parts that someone had replated and DMW. (Actually I got the pics backwards)
    The 3rd picture is a part with what I'd call "factory plating" which is how the parts I have order from vendors look. The last picture is a new part next to a part I replated.




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    Last edited by SupercoolBill; 03-17-2023 at 09:53 AM.

  4. #334
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
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    We sealed off the ports and vapor blasted the nasty warm up regulator.

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  5. #335
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Olathe, KS

    Posts:    1,671

    My VIN:    11596

    I've had good luck using Duplicolor Gloss Clear Engine Enamel for things I want to clear-coat. Get it at Autozone etc. I had my calipers plated and then gave them three coats with that stuff to help keep them looking good and easy to clean.
    Andy Lien

    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
    Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Kansas City

  6. #336
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2016

    Location:  SW FL

    Posts:    741

    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    I've had good luck using Duplicolor Gloss Clear Engine Enamel for things I want to clear-coat. Get it at Autozone etc. I had my calipers plated and then gave them three coats with that stuff to help keep them looking good and easy to clean.
    VHT brand is good as well.
    ~LXA~
    Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry

  7. #337
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  Illinois

    Posts:    2,440

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)

    Unless your transaxle mounts are visibly damaged, i would not replace them. If replacing, try your best to stick with NOS. I have not had good luck with the reproduction transaxle mounts.

    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
    [email protected]
    lsdelorean.com
    I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.

  8. #338
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2021

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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    Unless your transaxle mounts are visibly damaged, i would not replace them. If replacing, try your best to stick with NOS. I have not had good luck with the reproduction transaxle mounts.
    From what I hear they have changed the mounts because they had issues with the last batch.

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    Last edited by SupercoolBill; 03-25-2023 at 06:35 PM.

  9. #339
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2021

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    Well just because the WUR looks good on the outside it doesn't mean it is in good shape in the hidden places. I had a heck of a time trying to get it apart. The bolts that hold it together were seized. The center section of the WUR was cracked on the corner. When I took the valve apart the whole corner just fell off (see the last picture)

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  10. #340
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2021

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    I had previously purchased a WUR rebuild kit from Germany. It looks like the kit comes with a new diaphragm and small screws to replace the rivets. I ended up carefully drilling then driving out the rivets.
    My buddy TIG welded the center section for me and I gave him $50 for doing it for me. I just need to dress it up a bit and drill out the hole.

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