Does anyone know if they make those spanners for spax shocks. I am about ready to install a rear set and was wondering what I should be using if anything.
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I didn't buy the Spax option but I see that Delorean Go has a wrench listed at the bottom of this page:
https://www.deloreango.com/us/spax-s...-set-of-4.html
... and this thread has some good information including a possible wrench option from Jegs:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...tment-Settings
Edit. I read through the thread and the Jegs option is not an exact fit.
Tried to install those cool looking LED lights in the door pull latches like Christian put in his car. Struck out hard. Got the door panel off and found the right connector to tap the power from. Cut the 12v plug off the light kit and stripped the wires back. The wire conductors are so tiny I can't get them to make a connection. Unlike Christian's where he had a white wire and black wire inside the cable going to the LED's, mine ended up being a tiny bare copper stranded wire and a tiny green colored bare stranded wire.
Looked like a simple job.
Started removing coolant hoses. Skipped last weekend cause it was in the 30s. It was in the 60s all week then dropped back down to 30s for the weekend. Thankfully, my coworker gave me a jumpsuit a few weeks back so I wasn't too cold. Nearly froze my fingers draining the coolant though.
Reinstalled the radiator hoses in the rear. Still got the 2 under the fuel cover plate, one near the driver side, all of heater hoses and everything going into the VOD... At this point, Im thinking of replacing the water pump as well and just have an all new cooling system.
Ill finally diagnose the damn heater too, might as well get ready to replace it since Ive already got to get to the hoses.
EDIT: I also checked my TABs while in there. I'm pretty sure I cranked them back down as tight as possible, but Ill still be stressed about if it was tight enough. Funny that it goes from worrying about whether theyre bent and need to be replaced, or if you tightened them enough.
A reminder to everyone doing TAB work. Make sure the bolt will rotate in the bushings. My original set were rusted to the point where they bonded to the trailing arms. Absolutely ZERO movement compared to the arms. I had to replace the arms and cut the TABS. So no matter how tight the nut was, the force was not applied through the bolt to the other end. Until I get a good reason not to, I recommend greasing the TABS when installing to minimize the opportunity for bonding. BTW .. this was probably caused by the PO driving them in the winter (road salt).
As I think about it now, maybe it makes sense to drill them and insert a grease zerk. Thoughts?
One of my window switch sockets was missing on my car. The passenger window switch simply used spade connectors to attach the wires. However, Ed Uding now sells replacement sockets, and I bought and installed one. Works good.
Attachment 55090
Attachment 55091
I think drilling them and inserting a zerk fitting would be overkill. Greasing would work, but I thought instead of grease, coat with some of that clear goop stuff used on battery terminals to prevent corrosion, and thus prevent bonding. Just a thought...
Thomas
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i use wheel bearing grease on bolts to help prevent corrosion. It is very thick and should not wash off.
I've got inconel TABs, which as far as I know shouldn't rust.