I'm running the stock DeLorean PWM idle valve, and it works out real nice. Much easier to tune than a stepper motor.
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 2,405
My VIN: 01049
I'm running the stock DeLorean PWM idle valve, and it works out real nice. Much easier to tune than a stepper motor.
-Mike
My engine twists my frame.
1981 DeLorean, Carb LS4 swap completed
1999 Corvette, cam/headers/intake manifold, 400 rwhp
2005 Elise, stock
2016 Chevy Cruze
I cannot grow a mustache. It brings great shame to my family.
Haha, fair enough.
My philosophy: Difficulty describes things that are complicated and things that are laborious.
A fuel-only install is mostly laborious. It's been done many times so there aren't very many mysterious to solve. A lot of problems can be solved with money, including the entire tuning process. It works with the factory K-jet manifold and throttle. You just gut the meter unit and plug holes.
It does help to have an understanding of how EFI works and the role that each component plays. There are some good books on the subject. If you look at the entire system as a black box with wires going everywhere its intimidating AF.
If you gave me a carburetor I couldn't tell you what end is the kazasperator and where you connect the chokulon.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
For me if I put another motor in it needs to be properly built for boost and keeping the B28F keeps me from chasing down that rabbit hole. They're less shaky if you set the idle at the Volvo spec 900 RPM
TBH if this motor comes out there is a low probability of another PRV engine going back in unless the price is really, really right.
There hasn't been much talk about fully controlled odd fire motors, just wanted to post my experience.
During the first start I have no trouble getting the stepper to work and affect immediate changes when the # of steps was altered. Bench testing proved to me that there are innumerable ways to incorrectly drive the stepper. Time will tell.
I could totally see adapting the stock valve and using it, it would be easy to do and you could keep a similar mounting point. I purchased my MS parts in a lot that had the stepper unit, so I sold my DMC idle valve instead.
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
Just to champion the stepper IAC cause again... because everybody needs to believe in something... tonight I started the tuning process and decided to get fancy idle control going.
I was able to find the IAC stepper lower & upper limits and had closed loop idle control running in about 4 minutes. BOOYAH!
Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection
First off, I cannot thank everyone enough for the responses. You've no idea how much they are appreciated!
That's one of the big things I was curious about. I've always been a big booster of K-Jet, but the last two years my car was on the road I started having lots of trouble with it when I reflect upon it. Just eating up the O-rings in the CPR, the diaphragm in the Accumulator, clogging/deteriorating injectors, and the fuel pump boot that just turned to mush. I've no idea if DMCH's all-in-one fuel pump would work with EFI given it's much higher pressures, but I definitely want to eliminate as much rubber and steel from the system as possible. I don't mind K-Jetronic, and it worked great for a long time. But as soon as I started to see Ethanol blends is when I started to have problems. We had MTBE before that with no issues.
Still yet though, seeing the lack of complaints popping up in the support threads here was something that really stood out to me.
Ease of installation is what I'm shooting for. I'd rather spend more time troubleshooting and tuning that constantly fabricating. The big starting question of course if I opt for the 3.0L is where can I get a trigger ring at? Does someone already sell them? I do see that DPI sells an injector & fuel rail kit for the K-Jet heads.
Again, the ease of simplicity is what I'm going for. I suppose that I do lose a bit of performance with even-fire given that there are no performance cams for those engines. But the higher compression, displacement, & better flowing heads should make up for that. If I wanted high performance, I'd look to turbos or an outright swap. For now a reliable NA engine suits me just fine.
When going for an even-fire swap, which would be more preferable? The 2.8L B280F from the Volvo 780, or the 3.0L Z7X-711/Z7X-715 from the Premier/Monaco? Even better question, has anyone successfully grafted the serpentine belt over to the DeLorean's accessories?
As of right now, I've got 2 complete PRVs, both from DeLoreans. One with a blown head gasket, and the other should be fine. Although it has a borked exhaust manifold stud that was drilled out resulting in a mangled hole from some past mechanic (so I doubt it'll ever work with a stock exhaust again). 1 complete K-Jet setup, a second setup only missing a WUR, 6 spare CIS Injectors, and 1 or two spare dummy bearing kits. Then of course whatever other leftover parts I have remaining after the swap.
And that's the kind of results I like to hear about, as well as the more advanced options you have as well. For the EFI conversion, I'd like to give myself about a year to get the actual conversion in place and completed while restoring the rest of the car and balancing work & school.
Robert
People they come together, people they fall apart...
Location: Florida: Pinellas County
Posts: 2,111
My VIN: 5003 Never placed Concourse
Club(s): (DCF)
There are some conversions that still use the serpentine belt so that shouldn't be an issue. Also, DPI can grind the even-fire cams so there are "performance" options [http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...ght=even-fire].
I'm sure there are a few here also willing to help you out with the trigger ring as far as welding it on - shouldn't be a problem and they're available from DIYautotune or other places like eBay.
If I had a choice, I'd have gone with the 3.0 however I had the 2.8 sitting here so it was a no brainer. The two things I do not know about is if the 3.0 has cross bolted mains and if it has the oil cooler on. The mains aren't a big deal and I'm not sure if the oil cooler is either but I kept it installed when I swapped to my car. I will put a turbo on this engine IF I don't decide to swap to something else later on.
Lastly, don't stress about the fuel pump. Whether it is stock or DMCH all-in-one, EFI requires much less pressure than K-Jet.
EDIT: I forgot to add, as far as how well the heads flow - I don't know about the 3.0 but the 2.8 really needs to have the exhaust ports opened up. You can run the way it is but if you open up the ports it is a difference, at least I noticed a difference anyway.
Last edited by dn010; 09-28-2017 at 09:03 AM.
-----Dan B.
Location: Illinois
Posts: 2,440
My VIN: 11408
Club(s): (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)
I can make a trigger wheel for a 3.0 if you go that route. I require the crank pulley, I weld on the trigger ring, and make a mount for the crank position sensor. The sensor is to be used in conjunction with EDIS
Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
[email protected]
lsdelorean.com
I am not affiliated with Delorean Midwest in anyway.