I didn't buy the Spax option but I see that Delorean Go has a wrench listed at the bottom of this page:
https://www.deloreango.com/us/spax-s...-set-of-4.html
... and this thread has some good information including a possible wrench option from Jegs:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...tment-Settings
Edit. I read through the thread and the Jegs option is not an exact fit.
Last edited by DMC-81; 01-08-2018 at 09:40 PM.
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)
Tried to install those cool looking LED lights in the door pull latches like Christian put in his car. Struck out hard. Got the door panel off and found the right connector to tap the power from. Cut the 12v plug off the light kit and stripped the wires back. The wire conductors are so tiny I can't get them to make a connection. Unlike Christian's where he had a white wire and black wire inside the cable going to the LED's, mine ended up being a tiny bare copper stranded wire and a tiny green colored bare stranded wire.
Looked like a simple job.
Barry Floyd
Lebanon, Tennessee
VIN 3294 - Aug. 81
Started removing coolant hoses. Skipped last weekend cause it was in the 30s. It was in the 60s all week then dropped back down to 30s for the weekend. Thankfully, my coworker gave me a jumpsuit a few weeks back so I wasn't too cold. Nearly froze my fingers draining the coolant though.
Reinstalled the radiator hoses in the rear. Still got the 2 under the fuel cover plate, one near the driver side, all of heater hoses and everything going into the VOD... At this point, Im thinking of replacing the water pump as well and just have an all new cooling system.
Ill finally diagnose the damn heater too, might as well get ready to replace it since Ive already got to get to the hoses.
EDIT: I also checked my TABs while in there. I'm pretty sure I cranked them back down as tight as possible, but Ill still be stressed about if it was tight enough. Funny that it goes from worrying about whether theyre bent and need to be replaced, or if you tightened them enough.
Last edited by mr_maxime; 01-14-2018 at 07:00 PM.
A reminder to everyone doing TAB work. Make sure the bolt will rotate in the bushings. My original set were rusted to the point where they bonded to the trailing arms. Absolutely ZERO movement compared to the arms. I had to replace the arms and cut the TABS. So no matter how tight the nut was, the force was not applied through the bolt to the other end. Until I get a good reason not to, I recommend greasing the TABS when installing to minimize the opportunity for bonding. BTW .. this was probably caused by the PO driving them in the winter (road salt).
As I think about it now, maybe it makes sense to drill them and insert a grease zerk. Thoughts?
Nick
- No matter how many people believe in a dumb idea ... it is still a dumb idea!
- Some cars look fast. Some cars look faster than time!
- The question is not "where did the time go" but rather "where to go in time".
Chris Miles
For Better or Worse I own a DeLorean!
1983 Grey Manual, VIN #16409, Fresno, California
Last edited by Citizen; 01-15-2018 at 06:29 AM.
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i use wheel bearing grease on bolts to help prevent corrosion. It is very thick and should not wash off.
Dave M vin 03572
http://dm-eng.weebly.com/
I've got inconel TABs, which as far as I know shouldn't rust.