Welding Engine Block

[Bill6298]

Hello,

I just recently got everything removed to inspect my VOD for the first time since owning the car in 15 years. I was surprised to see two places where the previous owner welded the engine block. I assume a coolant leak could be to blame but I am more interested in understanding how effective these types of fixes are in the long term.

FWIW, this is not the original engine for the car and I remember the previous owner looking for one to rebuild on the DML back in the late 1990s. This engine ran for an ~10K additional miles and 2-3 years after it was rebuilt without any issues. It was stored for other reasons and I am restoring it now. I'll be able to do a compression test tomorrow.

I assume a normal engine has a 2nd very deep channel where the large area is welded in a rectangle pattern. I have no idea what should be underneath the smaller circular weld spot.

Would any of this concern you if it were your car?

Thanks

5017650173
501725017450175

[SS Spoiler]

Looks like a very competent fix for a rotted out PRV
oil galley. Question... would it be a good idea to weld up
all the deep block wells? If one has let go will others
soon follow? This looks like the ultimate fix for block rot....?

[Bill6298]

Looks like a very competent fix for a rotted out PRV
oil galley. Question... would it be a good idea to weld up
all the deep block wells? If one has let go will others
soon follow? This looks like the ultimate fix for block rot....?

I think I was lucky and had some experienced guys put my car together. I believe the PO purchased it with no engine at all.

I wouldn't know a good fix from a bad fix unfortunately when it comes to welding.

[Drive Stainless]

The weld looks very good, and I would be pleased if it were my car.

[David T]

The weld looks very good, and I would be pleased if it were my car.

The motors are not serial numbered to the car. There is no way to identify if a motor is or is not original to any particular car. If the motor was welded well and is not leaking it should be fine.

[Bill6298]

I did the compression test. I added oil into the cylinders earlier this week but did not add additional oil at first today. I added more oil for the 2nd round.

300 is the max on the gauge. I was preparing for low compression - not high. Should I return my brand new gauge? It's an OTC 5605. Not the cheapest but not the most expensive.

1. 300
2. 150
3. 180
4. 210
5. 210
6. 180

1. 210
2. 200
3. 210
4. 235
5. 210
6. 210

Re-ran #2: Still 200
Re-ran #4. Now 210

So, it ended up all 210 or 200 but the first two rounds of testing were way out of line.

Am I good?

[Bitsyncmaster]

You should only add oil to the cylinders if your testing a low compression result to determine if the low result is rings or valves.

Normal compression checks are done dry.

[Bill6298]

Ok, since the engine had not run in years, I got advice to add a small amount of oil a few days before turning the engine.

Since I did, does that invalidate the later tests with the better/good numbers?

I don't know what to make of such high pressure especially the first cylinder that was off the dial.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ok, since the engine had not run in years, I got advice to add a small amount of oil a few days before turning the engine.

Since I did, does that invalidate the later tests with the better/good numbers?

I don't know what to make of such high pressure especially the first cylinder that was off the dial.

That is probably good advise adding oil after is sits for years. If the engine started and ran, that would get rid of any oil you added to the cylinders.

Just get the engine running before you try a compression test.

[Bill6298]

That is probably good advise adding oil after is sits for years. If the engine started and ran, that would get rid of any oil you added to the cylinders.

There's no fuel system or ignition system for now. It will be awhile before I can start the engine normally. I'm just trying to assess if my engine is good enough to start the restoration process or if I would need to do work on the engine first.

I've never done a compression test before and every thread I can find deals with low pressure and not high pressure. Do you know what my first round of results would mean? Assuming I should trust them (being the first crank in years), I way beyond the normal 10% difference not to mention being over 300 PSI on cylinder 1.

I suppose I could let the oil settle for a week and do it all over again if that would be more reliable.

[Bitsyncmaster]

If you had a lot of oil in the cylinders that could result in very high pressures. The oil is taking up room where air would normally compress so your compression ration may have gotten very high.

Normally testing for bad rings, you just shoot a squirt from an oil can into the cylinder (not much oil).

[David T]

A compression test on a motor that has been sitting still for a long time won't tell you much. As long as all of the cylinders have compression and they are all within 10% of each other (or so) means you probably have a good motor. Your #'s are high but that is probably due to all of the oil you put into it. Once you get it to run, retest it as a baseline for future testing. It will also probably smoke pretty good for a while once you do start it up till you burn all of that oil out of it. Get it good and hot and then change the oil and filter.

[Bill6298]

Thanks guys. I'll move on to the other work I need to do get the engine running again.