1982 Frame Off Restoration

[SupercoolBill]

We lined up the transmission as best we could and started trying to mate the transmission to the engine. I was never able to get the input shaft on the transmission to rotate by spinning the output flanges with the transmission in gear so instead we put a socket on the crank and spun that instead. Eventually we got it together and torqued the bolts down. 35 ft-lbs I think it was. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240216/39ce9d4744abed42ec07f349bda1da8d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240216/310a7b9c3b46658d325499a1e9d996d1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240216/a30262457ac9dbff58227c805bab4cd1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240216/93159649737982fd12efa4de1ce4707c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We installed the starter with next SS bolts with copper never sieze on them of course.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240216/f358f5383c3254539e82278dc38bf6bf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240216/fb0667bc09ff982d2d930c5fb72db22f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240216/25128865b3c23d0f6dac1ab0ed7fe74b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

After that we called it a night and set the engine and transmission off out if the way for the night. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240216/d8a71232260cc98e71542507289437ab.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240216/fbb62ff1f7193e78d9d6bbf6f2b84013.jpg

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[Helirich]

Nice mile stone.

[SupercoolBill]

Today I realized that we skipped a step. It was highly recommend to me that we put gear lube in the transmission, stand the transmission up on the bell housing, leave it for an hour more and see if the input shaft seal leaks. Totally forgot to do this.
I picked up 80W-90 and some DOT4 brake fluid at Napa. The lady at the counter asked if I had a job name or PO and I said "Delorean". Well as you can guess that started quite a conversation. She was a nice lady and it was a fun conversation as I showed her some pictures on my phone. I have the Samsung Z-Fold and pictures is where it really shines.
I got back to the shop and started filling the transmission with fluid. I forgot how much I hate filling a transmission or a diff. with squeeze bottles of heavy weight fluid. It's like torture. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/434a550a4adf88a2b08e185f201c3254.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/663e85967678e8b0ed416dd0b6a8d0a9.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

After the transmission was full I started raising the engine up to tilt it forward. I noticed a drip already and at the same time I noticed that we were missing four bolts on the bottom of the bell housing. Are you kidding me?? How did we miss that? The fluid was seeping out past the gasket in this area. So I searched my hardware and found exactly the right number of the correct size bolts. I put them in with lock washers and torqued them. The leaking seemed to stop.
It was 6:45 and I had to be somewhere across town by 7:00P. So I quickly blocked the transmission up to tip it forward. Hopefully it is tipped forward enough to test the input shaft seal.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/dd70d847e59e5baa4e94ba0720cdcc90.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/2fb23ecf51b456888cec74f322bb0570.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Today is Saturday. Went for a run in the 17 degree crisp air this morning then got cleaned up and went out and worked on the car from 10A-6P.
I took a quick look when we got to the shop. I didn't see a big puddle of oil under the transmission so I figured it passed the test [emoji106]
We installed the flywheel dust covers. I had to cut down some bolts because we needed short ones. One of the covers had a hole where a sensor used to be. This sensor isn't used for anything on the Deloreans from what I am told so I looked around my shop and found a nice little rubber plug to put in the hole.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/f845bc6b1b0ab0e0fbb7b0e5bb5fe55a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/7a7752c635df2b550a389ca9868c072f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/b8781eb9cba9b25201eba0e0ba9cd315.jpg

[SupercoolBill]

I got out the transmission mounts and remembered that the new rubber mounts don't line up right with the brackets on the transmission. These came from D-go btw. Not a big deal. I ground a little material off from the top so they'd fit into the bracket. Next issue...bolt holes are off a bit....quite a bit. So I used drill bits to align the holes. Not ideal but should do the trick. I spray painted the rubber mount pieces where I ground them down so they won't be all rusty and gross. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/8e2fe61627498c1f5a69094d0b0d7ef5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/1ff12c553ce6420223b97af2a644f569.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/a5574d116b8e6281f80d5c297c5dba8a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/6250350ec3f0d66c284bd1e68815e096.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I chased the threads for the exhaust studs while my wife installed the exhaust studs.
If anyone knows where I can get a quality metric tap and die set let me know. Nothing made in China. I have found that the sizes in my set are off. They cut too deep then the nut or bolt fits too sloppy. For the exhaust stud holes luckily they just needed the first 8mm or so cleaned up. So the studs still fit pretty snug still luckily.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/634d4653aa3de378ec332f77feb5a905.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/dc620f5d4bff0aa678d73840a8c9c9d3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/ff11e58daa3de7dfa0394a020c9d322c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We installed the engine mount studs and made sure to slather them up with never sieze before installing them. These are notorious for being completely siezed in the aluminum engine block lower half. I have heard of them even rusting and expanding inside the block and splitting the aluminum.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/4e5479cd485ce3aa3c7790f338cb8d74.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I turned the engine over by hand to see if the mark on the flywheel lines up with the mark at the same time that pulley mark lines up with the plate on the front of the engine. HA! Look at that! [emoji41] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/3e650ebfb0aed16f6d2f2cc5ed958730.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/fb23e669616e3527bb6d42eda2e2ae24.jpg

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[82DMC12]

I chased the threads for the exhaust studs while my wife installed the exhaust studs.
If anyone knows where I can get a quality metric tap and die set let me know. Nothing made in China. I have found that the sizes in my set are off. They cut too deep then the nut or bolt fits too sloppy. For the exhaust stud holes luckily they just needed the first 8mm or so cleaned up. So the studs still fit pretty snug still luckily.

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I have a Craftsman metric tap kit that goes from like M4 to M10, it's probably 20 years old but it's quality, I always use them with sulfur cutting oil and blow them off with compressed air when I'm done.

For everything else that I don't already have, I buy them onesie twosie from McMaster Carr. Never had a problem with any of those taps either (both SAE and metric).

[SupercoolBill]

We decided it was time to install the motor and transmission in the frame. Our excitement quickly turned to crushing disappointment. There was a small puddle of transmission lube under the transmission. We hadn't seen it before because it was up on the wooden blocks and we were looking for a puddle down by the flywheel.
We felt like we'd been sucker punched. [emoji3061][emoji37]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/61d93b5e508241beee1c32772eb07af5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We wiped clean the area clean and it got wet right away. Ugh....this sucks.

I put a post on the Delorean FB page, message a few online friends that know more than me about these cars. I was told that perhaps the differential was too tight so it was keeping the case halves from pulling together in this area. That sounded plausible to me.
I also pulled up the picture from when we put sealant on the case half. I zoomed in and didn't see any missed parts in this area.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240217/4d746d6d4e8432f40918ae474486bc56.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240218/c88c5f9c07bf225e20ffaba90e554d9f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I tipped the motor on its side, removed the drive flange, and backed off the adjuster nut. It was still leaking. I tried loosening and retightening the four bolts on the bottom of the bellhousing to gear case connection. Still leaking. Josh from D-Ind says I should have used Hylomar instead of anaerobic and should have spread it on rather than a thin bead. He also said I should have taken a straight edge and checked the case halves for straightness.
It seems weird that only this one place is leaking.
The last thing we did is drain the gear box fluid into the bottles it came out of. Need to think about it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240218/197270745c346dc5ab30c299fad899b6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Well for what it's worth I figured out why we have a leak here. The right and left cases are made differently in this area. The left side case has an extra hole in the case which fools you into thinking that this is part of the gearbox that gets bolted together but IT DOES NOT.
Look at both pictures and you'll see what I mean. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240218/9ccd8e79ae598d5f21c6e85f1a652073.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240218/e603521b1461dc8e66128629af5c99f5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We missed this area.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240218/dc4cd8a91782f9058335202ed04c59f1.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

We missed this area.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240218/dc4cd8a91782f9058335202ed04c59f1.jpg

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You had a 50/50 chance of putting the sealer on the other side.

[SupercoolBill]

You had a 50/50 chance of putting the sealer on the other side.Yup.
That's gonna cost us a lot in time and new gaskets etc.
Of course every time you pull a transmission apart your risking screwing something up too. [emoji849]

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[SupercoolBill]

The parts I ordered from D-Ind showed up today. I appreciate Josh letting me message him back and forth during the weekend and getting these parts out so quickly.
I decided to give in to suggestions from others to install a one piece clutch line from the MC to the slave.
I also sprung for some new front body mount plates even though we already had ours replated. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240222/364eb9ef07ec625026d58246df906b44.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I decided to tip the engine and transmission on its side and pour diesel into the transmission and let it soak over night (or longer). I will drain it out before taking the transmission apart. My hope is that it will wash away the 80-90 lube so we don't have a sticky mess to deal with.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240222/5c0265310bcaaa3a44b45db7786c3b9e.jpg

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[WHO1DMC]

Both of the oil galley screens had a hole in them. I am assuming they are made this way from the factory. Kind of odd. Not sure if I'll be putting them back in.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/5bd64ec7c4cd0926b3394cecd428a336.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230817/d9f1b061f312634282d355cdc6210cb3.jpg

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I kinda whent down a rabbit hole recently and I found the little screens in a gasket kit for the Volvo 264 engine which are similar.

The kit I saw was on Rockauto and out of stock.
I guess my point is that this isn't a Delorean thing and can be found. Separate from a kit I'm not sure of.




Dave B.

[SupercoolBill]

I was told by several "experts" to not install them so I left them out. The holes are meant to be there so oil can get through when the oil is cold or if the screen gets plugged.

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[WHO1DMC]

I was told by several "experts" to not install them so I left them out. The holes are meant to be there so oil can get through when the oil is cold or if the screen gets plugged.

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I wouldn't either, just thought it was a interesting find.
I'm sure at the time they thought it would do some good.
Not knowing it would fail right away. Luckily it's one of those good idea things that wasn't necessary.




Dave B.

[Helirich]

You had a 50/50 chance of putting the sealer on the other side.

I have those odds lots of times. I generally always follow the OP in my choice too.

[SupercoolBill]

We received the pull scale thingy in the mail. Not fully convinced I need to use this but whatever it was cheap.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240223/577a2a540f06312eba0820fb2a22c44d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Today we spent 6 hours working on the transmission rebuild mess up.
Since we had done all this before I let the wife take the lead. Original I was going to do a YouTube video of the whole thing but I ended up forgetting to film after a while.
First thing she did was remove the starter, the transmission mounts, etc.
Then the transmission was removed from the engine...again.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/53037a5048973729b6dcbc90af80d7b7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/22e41b9ddf181046012a2de9fee65d9c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/404ae02b8da430dec2337080b647221f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Disassembly photoshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/8f85b2ee51e854057b22e11f24dbd633.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/19cae6e8cd1639d752f0e2f39761cbb0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/a58523612edcb01750504b29cd0f2c71.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/9f1b176f5c1ac0fbd7e2f2f87db7df2c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/3b899bb33deca79f1752d2c3a217584a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

With the transmission split open it was proven that the leaking was due to a section that we missed when sealing up the case. Actually there was a second area that we missed also.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/e6cb8a6b43daae15a0d10f241bdee42b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/4a5ea75bda43a623338bb46871b00601.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/7f894a4ef304e8e2914e16a3db5841b5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I sanded the bearing retainer compound off from the bearing races and bearing seats in the cases. What a pain.[emoji19]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/fcecd55a942a338bec4f89307782251d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/782191f617f1496b85a00f559eb42aeb.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

My wife carefully removing the old gasket and sealant.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/e5d610102dafb4a3c3d197ee2564f25b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I decided to check the flatness of the case mating surfaces while everything was apart. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/8f88a0c3aaf75519372c1ccbc2937892.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I felt quite confident that I had the differential carrier bearings preload set for a good setting. Basically I ended up setting it back where it was when we took the transmission apart. But, a couple people kept saying that I should set the preload by doing the pull string test. So I figured what the heck...I'll do the silly pull string thing.
I started by knocking the bearing race out a bit so I knew it was backed off. Next, we bolted the case halves together. You're supposed to put every bolt in, torque them all down, etc. We didn't do all that. I couldn't see how all that was necessary. We put in all the bolts near the carrier and just snugged them down.
So we did the thing and guess what? Ended up right back where I had it set. Oh well. Confirmation I guess.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/435436da84d91c094f842251ad8e3ba8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/ea960a5b5c2954c468bad848b476e7d9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/6af7db1b7b1a2e169c1456961be568fa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/d156abdfbe60c3461c2b878db998ab5a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Worth mentioning...the manual actually doesn't say that you need to test the preload if you're reusing the bearings and to just make sure it feels right. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/d66896cf1d26055be1badf8e99e33b24.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We cleaned the mating surfaces, bearing races, and bearing housings with acetone. Put bearing retainer on the bearings.

We painted the sealant on this time. We are not taking any chances.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/bf369444f29a91524d724c77125498d6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

This part is always stressful. You have to make sure the reverse gear is lined up in the right place before you set the case half on. You can't really see in there as you set it in place.
As soon as we got a couple bolts in we tested reverse to make sure it worked. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/2f7c36556ff47590a6cb95361e4579c9.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I used my new bolt cleaning tool to clean a couple bolts. Most of the bolts didn't need to be cleaned.
All the bolts torqued to spec. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/2642a96481acddfac1f6ca9cf4eabb6c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/04f2c18f013401c94e400c7cfc8d299b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We backed off the adjuster nut, applied some Hylomar, and put it back to the correct location. I splurged on a new stainless steel lock down plate so we installed it.
Lastly we installed the drive flanges and shifter pieces.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/107933b9093eb0de0b058c1238aa9876.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/32419647aaf4cfb9f2d6176b6817bbc9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/de82b8e43431d78ad4d34f9563d777b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/3272fc08f3ad6023439e55cfeae7a0d9.jpg

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[Helirich]

I used my new bolt cleaning tool to clean a couple bolts. Most of the bolts didn't need to be cleaned.
All the bolts torqued to spec. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/2642a96481acddfac1f6ca9cf4eabb6c.jpg

What is a bolt cleaning machine principle? Is it just a tapped hole?

[SupercoolBill]

What is a bolt cleaning machine principle? Is it just a tapped hole?It has stiff bristles in there. I bought it on Amazon.

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[JETS 81 DMC]

It has stiff bristles in there. I bought it on Amazon.

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Neat tool.

How would you rate overall how well the tool works?

Here is a link for info on it and how it works with a video. Both metric and SAE available.

https://threadwizard.us/

[SupercoolBill]

Neat tool.

How would you rate overall how well the tool works?

Here is a link for info on it and how it works with a video. Both metric and SAE available.

https://threadwizard.us/I only used it a few times but it worked great.

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[SupercoolBill]

We stopped by the shop today and filled up the transmission. Man this is the easy way to fill a gearbox!
Tipped it up to check the input shaft seal. So far no drips [emoji1696]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/636c27abca8db5c6d9e03d67709af2e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240225/86578eaa3f9036b62e6dd8c8b573be42.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Still no leaks so we installed the transmission mounts and installed the transmission onto the engine. This never goes easy it seems. I couldn't imagine trying to do it laying under the car. 🫤https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240227/76688e94c74d676c3fdcf897068d0c60.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240227/8e9d1db9b13d0c30214a11cae0eabe9d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next we pulled the spark plugs out, hooked up a pressure gage, hooked the starter up to a booster pack, and turned the engine over to see if it would pump oil.
We cranked it over quite a while with no results. Then I remembered that I only dumped like 1/2 a quart of oil into the engine so far. Duh. So I dumped six quarts in, hooked the starter to a battery and cranked it over. Nothing! Now I'm getting worried. I decided to fill the oil pump with oil through the pressure sending unit port by using a syringe. As you may guess this made a mess. I hooked the pressure gage back up and turned the engine over for like 15 seconds. Nothing...wtf. I texted some Delorean experts. One of them said "Keep cranking it takes quite a while" and my wife was googling the situation said she was reading the same thing. "Don't worry about hurting something...just keep cranking till you see oil coming out in the heads. So we kept on cranking until..HEY OIL!!! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240227/90cb48f77940f944b71f46e4879902a3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240227/d33aabcd3fe61bccbc39a6a5fea320d7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240227/a8e163f3083070220b218e9f0642d8bb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240227/9495bb37fca70bde7d518e8b41c75aab.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

One thing I haven't mentioned yet. Before we left the shop for the night my wife put the spark plugs back in. I was worried the whole time because I know how easily the threads can get messed up but when even I say something like "Hey be careful, if you mess that up it's a big deal" my wife freezes and just stares at me with this look. You know the look. The "I hate you" look. Lol
So I kept my mouth shut hoping everything went well. Then it happened. She said "This one isn't going in right". [emoji2955] I overreacted saying "So you stripped it out?!?" "That's pretty much the worst thing that could ever happen...if it is stripped out then the motor is screwed!"
I could of handled it a lot better. [emoji51]
She ended up storming off and going home. She didn't talk to me until half way through the day today.
The good thing is she knew enough to stop right away instead of just cranking it in there.
Today I went to the autoparts store to buy something to fix the threads. I bought what was recommended. It was a tap and thread inserts. Not really what I was looking for. When I got back to the shop I looked at my receipt. $80!!! [emoji44]
I decided to look on online to see if there were better options. Then I found it. This amazing little device.
You put it in past the bad threads engage it, then back thread over the messed up threads! How clever! And only $30.00! I'll be returning the other tool I bought.
So I went to show my wife what I bought and before I could show her she said "A reverse thread repair die?" [emoji848][emoji54] Aparently she had been doing her own research.
So here's the tool. It should be here in three days...before the weekend. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240228/cc2d3b6bbd2790eb630a0a10a71fc0ed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240228/fcef10d97f688ff233ea71905415bcd6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

It showed up. Let's see how this works.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240301/47e36419a9afe3955f51bca8b0b2f24a.jpg

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[Helirich]

That thing is cool. I wonder if you could put compressed air in the exhaust port with the exhaust valve open. Then as you chase the threads, any chips fly out instead of in. I guess in your case, you could turn the engine upside down and work underneath. (Gravity is your friend) I?ve also heard of grease on the tap, so chips stick to the tap.

[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for 9 hours today.
First things first. We tackled the messed up spark plug hole threads. Wife said she wasn't going to touch it. I read the instructions, put some grease on the threaded part of the tool, inserted it into the combustion chamber, partially expanded it and started back threading. The directions said not to go full diameter on the first run but rather take several runs expanding it a bit more each time. As I was backing it out and it was quite loose in the threads I thought to myself "This is hogwash...I'm just gonna go full diameter" then next thing you know I hit the bad area and it went a bit hard. So I kept it where it was at. I backed it just short of being completely unthreaded then went back in until it was loose again. I tightened the adjustment to expand the diameter then did the same procedure. The next time I went full diameter. The tool worked like a charm. Nothing fell down inside the combustion chamber. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/5918c471f0d156ebaf03d6acbdb34615.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/4a6af867da43019c835c19259ac505b7.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next we removed all the spark plugs, put copper anti-seize on the threads, threaded them in BY HAND, and torqued them. I was glad I used a torque wrench because I feel like I would have tightened them more if than I was supposed to if I just did them by feel.
You may notice the spark plugs are used and black. They are black because we tried to get the engine to start and run back when we first got it and I was just dumping gas into the intake to get it to run. We will probably replace the plugs after the break in period is over.
The second photo is just to show how we had the motor set up to do this work. The plywood on the saw horses was getting in the way and giving us splinters so we didn't use it this time. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/c60fe76f555bcddebc11c9c9ade22335.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/4c39962a2cc202f2381a4609555b136c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Valve covers getting installed. I talked to Andy L (82DMC) and decided to put Hylomar on the valve cover side of the gaskets only. New S.S. bolts and wave washers with copper anti-seize got installed.
Things you learn over time...don't tighten any of the bolts until you have them all threaded in.. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/aa64368b2c7b64ec70614a7f2487e12b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/b678c7ee45a7ef6be258bfe70f7eacb0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I recently posted on FB something about my transmission mounts from D-go needing to be modified a bit for them to fit in the transmission bracket.
I was advised to not use the transmission mounts and furthermore to not use the new engine mounts I bought.
I had heard that D-go/Del. EU had reliability issues with the rubber part of their mounts but when I bought mine it explicitly stated on their website that they were selling a new version of the mounts. So I bought them. I got worried with more than one person warning me to not use the mounts because they'll fail so I emailed Arron. He assured me that there was a change to the mounts and the ones I bought should be g2g. I posted his response on FB and was still told not to use them.
I say all that to say this. We are using the mounts. They may fail and if they do I'll have to deal with it. Hopefully they'll be fine. Why am going to ignore sound advice and use them anyways?

1. We already have them and we are ready to install the engine/transmission in the frame.
2. We paid for them. It would be hard for me to throw brand new mounts in the trash.
3. We would have to pay for new ones.
4. Arron has assured me that these are g2g. He is either telling me the truth. If he is BSing me then I guess I'm a fool.
5. I want to see what happens. Part of me wants to see these fail just so I can see when and how these fail (if they do)

The down side?
1. If they fail I'll still have to buy new mounts.
2. If they fail on a road trip and the failure is catastrophic then I'll have to have the car trailed home (maybe I'll keep my old mounts in the fronk of the car)
3. The biggest one of all....changing the mounts after the whole car is together will be a pain in butt.

Fools rush in where angels fear to tread.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/4051b3c61225c6901a0bf79bef51ddd5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Andy L. warned me that you can't just bolt up the transmission mounts to the frame, drop the transmission in place, then line up the bolt hole on the brackets. It doesn't work doing it that way. It's a pain in the arse.
Engine and transmission bolted in.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/19e7cbcf693c29c118fa1d3883412c65.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/866cb9cb984dff7f165db1479da3d95e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/13e470b7390a6792a43155a81b965661.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Decided to install the exhaust headers next. Why? Because they are cool!
The left side went on no problem. The right side is a tight fit. I took the alternator off. Still wouldn't fit. I thought I was going to have to get the engine lift set back up, remove the engine mount bolt, and lift the engine to get it installed. [emoji19]
I spent some time looking at the situation. I decided to remove the rear most exhaust stud. Walah! Success![emoji846]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/53014f5d7b8ea5a7822165833b49d17a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/0e00d8f23243db9ce06becd36d345df5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/e317fbd415064e34f410bee321a9a7aa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/0c167b74e5c92882aa354ebbbad3107f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next we installed the drive axle shafts. Anti-seize on threads, torqued to spec. As I installed these I was glad we just spent the money for rebuilt ready to go axle shafts rather than rebuilding ours. They are perfect. Thanks D-Ind. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/6d24ff6040caf75c4d5615c2c3815728.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/8c4efc6e2dde73c0fd57a767c8c96206.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/c60530d55c2b0eac0c6b96b907a08527.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/6c3470168d05a3a214a37946f8e2031c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next I installed the SS dipstick tube I got from D-Ind. I had already previously reamed out the inside of the tube because it had a ridge. It took some messaging with Josh to figure out how this thing gets installed. I'm not crazy about the design but it works. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/45b0cf537247fb3fd26f18e5a40e77dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/77c2cd87f3f3e7bb4b263aa5424ec85f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

While working on the frame I decided to remove the clips holding the brake line as recommended by Andy L. The reason being if the line ever has to be removed/replaced in the future there is no way to get to the clips to remove them with the body on the frame.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/a0b8babda2b9d090f081b5b5215bace8.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I messaged this picture to Josh because I was trying to figure out how his one piece clutch line was suppose to plumb up. The original adapter gets removed.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/99e9b88ccd3e29755fa305ce136f6e86.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

This is just a cool picture from underneath the carhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/31612164deb54e3b26510217eb1e78da.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next we installed the AC pump. I chased the threaded holes on the valve cover. Luckily I had some new bolts to replace the old bolts. I made myself a kit of metric bolts a while ago.
Things that bug me...four small bolts to hold the brackets onto the valve covers but six large bolts to hold the compressor to the bracket. Is this middle bolt really needed?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/49f47874fc9b6acf456786a1aae8e0c8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/f21195f0fd72d33fccae9e072db35f7b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/1826f8ec3a0c894792157a3fe5b4f6ed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/eb46b9fc71bd6477c192344f577347dc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/78a0bdf5c57898a7e6e9f557ef3476fa.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Here's how things sat at the end of the day.
I hope someone is getting something out of this. It takes a lot of time to document everything we are doing on this project. Enjoy! [emoji846]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/4058af2b1addb2e857b1d3ea1f9a58a1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/d7e10f87d91641db483bce1bedcf4b49.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/d88557273c9c53850ea8a1561a5e1e9a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We dug out the engine wiring harness this morning. This thing is pretty bad. I am pretty good with wiring and once even converted a carburetor, mechanical fuel pump vehicle (Suzuki Samurai) to a EFI MPFI engine with an electric in tank fuel pump making my own wiring harness using factory service manuals to figure it out. But we are under a time crunch to get this car running. Also there is a materials cost involved in rebuilding my original harness. I'd need to replace almost every connector, replace bad wiring, etc.
My options are a NOS harness for $465 (DMCH) or a completely new harness with some additional weatherpak connectors added for $505 (D-Ind).
It's a lot of money for a wiring harness just for the engine but time is money so I'm going to buy the one from D-Ind. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240304/c510e0f08a2d47d0249c29a5348c896a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240304/627b6776e56d54598840962d46af51eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240304/3af2a5df6f78b04dbecbd42ca68e1306.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240304/e38d242e055ca1da382cd3f1d40805c8.jpg

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[Helirich]

We worked on the car for 9 hours today.
First things first. We tackled the messed up spark plug hole threads. Wife said she wasn't going to touch it. I read the instructions, put some grease on the threaded part of the tool, inserted it into the combustion chamber, partially expanded it and started back threading. The directions said not to go full diameter on the first run but rather take several runs expanding it a bit more each time. As I was backing it out and it was quite loose in the threads I thought to myself "This is hogwash...I'm just gonna go full diameter" then next thing you know I hit the bad area and it went a bit hard. So I kept it where it was at. I backed it just short of being completely unthreaded then went back in until it was loose again. I tightened the adjustment to expand the diameter then did the same procedure. The next time I went full diameter. The tool worked like a charm. Nothing fell down inside the combustion chamber. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/5918c471f0d156ebaf03d6acbdb34615.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240303/4a6af867da43019c835c19259ac505b7.jpg

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Glad this worked out. Need to keep this tool in memory.

[SupercoolBill]

We looked at other stuff on the car to see what else should go on this order. It would be nice to replace this small harness but it is in okay shape so for the cost of a new one we are just going to clean up this one and reuse it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240304/6f3806036d801bff2a6aaf75a370bcc0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240304/98ca44e97a31d8d7f0e62a011f6c707d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240304/0050ccfc01403f816de90a8294cfa8b6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Glad this worked out. Need to keep this tool in memory.Yeah it is the "cat's kitten" as a buddy of mine says.

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[AugustneverEnds]

You're probably aware of this but on the off chance you're not, you can bypass the ballast resistor if you are planning on running a different coil than the OEM Bosch. For a while it seemed to be difficult to find German made coils (DeLoreanGo has them right now) so when my Dunmurry installed coil finally failed I bought a Pertronix, bypassed the ballast resistor, and opened the spark plug gaps up a bit. Of course if you're planning on keeping it stock pay me no attention.

[SupercoolBill]

You're probably aware of this but on the off chance you're not, you can bypass the ballast resistor if you are planning on running a different coil than the OEM Bosch. For a while it seemed to be difficult to find German made coils (DeLoreanGo has them right now) so when my Dunmurry installed coil finally failed I bought a Pertronix, bypassed the ballast resistor, and opened the spark plug gaps up a bit. Of course if you're planning on keeping it stock pay me no attention.Actually I was not aware of this. So any coil that isn't Bosch or just certain ones? Because the one I bought isn't Bosch.

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[SupercoolBill]

I found a few more parts we needed and placed the order. There goes $700. [emoji389]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240305/99420461e7e18aaafb89b71f7d02781f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Something kind of exciting happened today.
A while back I had tracked down the previous owner before the guy that we bought the car from. I asked him if he had anything left from when he had the car. Most desired....the title. A title is not required for older vehicles in Maine and it is pretty typical to not receive one when purchasing an older vehicle. I decided to bug the previous, previous owner one more time today.
Low and behold guess what he found? The title!! So awesome! This will make the car worth more if we ever decide to. Not that we really plan to.

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[AugustneverEnds]

Actually I was not aware of this. So any coil that isn't Bosch or just certain ones? Because the one I bought isn't Bosch.

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Bosch coils can't handle 12 volts going through them for very long before they will burn out hence why many European cars are fitted with the ballast resistor. One major benefit of only allowing 9 volts through the coil is they tend to easily last a couple of decades, downside is the spark it produces is weaker, which is why the spark plugs are gapped at a modest .024" -.028"

Most aftermarket coils can handle 12 volts so no ballast resistor needed. I know Pertronix and MSD do not require the ballast resistor.

[Helirich]

Bosch coils can't handle 12 volts going through them for very long before they will burn out hence why many European cars are fitted with the ballast resistor. One major benefit of only allowing 9 volts through the coil is they tend to easily last a couple of decades, downside is the spark it produces is weaker, which is why the spark plugs are gapped at a modest .024" -.028"

Most aftermarket coils can handle 12 volts so no ballast resistor needed. I know Pertronix and MSD do not require the ballast resistor.

I didn?t know this either. Is there a thread about this? (I don?t like mucking his up))

[AugustneverEnds]

Just two I can remember off of the top of my head...

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4969-ignition-coil

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1277-Ignition-coil-questions

[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for 4 hours after work today. I tried to figure out how the frequency valve gets rebuilt with the D-Ind parts while the wife swapped out the end plate on the compressor. First I glass bead blasted the valve body under low pressure being careful to avoid the plug in terminals. I didn?t worry about getting beads in the end of the lines because the lines are getting replaced. I cut part way through the factory hose on the F.V. then yanked it off. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/3a7b5716cea46e6c8db0f1ec4eba5a83.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/cf7d01a2afa55c5fdcd5239165fb3d6d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/15cecd3107e9c841891ea0048bf28e58.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I cleaned the valve really well, inspected everything, installed new hose and adapter on the other end. I masked it off, primed, painted, and clear coated with engine enamel. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/57b5bb0c35fce92a73cb8296827d058a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/507a8666b9d695a921ec67bfba861858.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/22b4fc1e818eddc4b3f2907f46a02ebd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/0f5a520417ab18d3c1d4cef318609847.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/7711f1801df22ced93312a1d1c1c5832.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

While I was doing this work the wife removed the rear plate from the AC compressor. When she loosened the bolts oil started to leak out so I told her to remove the entire compressor so she could tip it up on end to remove the end plate. She removed the end plate and installed the replacement end plate with the new gasket. We couldn't tell which way the gasket was supposed to face by looking at the old one but I don't think it matters.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/d0a930c47301b7b33e000ad67a7b6403.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/7f40886a4ac7a36eb24b85a0aafc7ba5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/563c407e7b70f75cc758bd15f263a00d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The last thing we did was try to get the shift cable (crossgate?) Set up. We already had the cable in the frame and connected on the shift lever end but figured out that we had it routed incorrectly so....it had to come back out. Yeah.....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/cf26d985cccd7b1e00c9ae6aa7f4c5b2.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

My phone battery died last night so I am finishing up my posts from last night today. Wifey re-routed the cable through the smaller knockout in the frame up in the LH corner but I inspected how she had it ran in the frame and wasn't so sure about it. It was swooping down below the fuel accumulator mount. It took some searching online but I found a picture that showed the cable and it was on top of the accumulator mount. My wife was frustrated by now and didn't see why it made any difference so I ended up being the next victim to have to remove then re-install the cable.
Here is the picture I found online.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/7d1c176154488e93e77c04d07b3c50cf.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

So I ran our cable over the mounting bracket AND over the hard fuel pipe.
line.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/4aa24eeb77bffce6eea22f1896d58633.jpg

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[82DMC12]

Yes the crossgate cable is supposed to be completely above the fuel accumulator area

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[SupercoolBill]

I managed to get the cable into the bracket(s)..something easier said than done.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/f6c97b364798fac0ce0c8144fa0e24f6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240307/c49970c3402298d8d5a49411b5b66d75.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I didn?t know this either. Is there a thread about this? (I don?t like mucking his up))

Look at this thread. Start at Post #85 if you don't want to read the whole thing.

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13649-Ignition-ECU-operation-HEI/page9

[SupercoolBill]

We watched Andy Lien's (82DMC12) YouTube video on adjusting the transmission cable because I still didn't fully understand how this worked. Basically what you are supposed to do is adjust the cable so that the shifter lever has a static position of being centered in the little plate that the pin rides on. Also another indication that you have it adjusted correctly is you can hit every forward gear and reverse. Kind of a no brainer there once you think about it. Reverse keeps tripping us up because neither of us have ever actually driven a Delorean or any vehicle that reverse is fully left l, lift, then back. I've had other cars like VWs that have a weird reverse but it isn't the same pattern. So we had to Google a picture of a Delorean shift knob and refer to the picture.
I ended up having to adjust the locking nuts at the transmission bracket all the way in one direction (pushing cable sheathing towards front of the car).
After doing this the lever was close to being centered but not far enough because some of the gears were still hard to hit. I backed out the clevis some, closer, some more, closer still. I adjusted the clevis out as far as I dared to and now it seems to be perfectly where it should be. It does kind of worry me though how far in one direction I had to adjust everything.

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[SupercoolBill]

It has been a challenge doing this whole project with my wife. We own a small business so we work together all day M-F. Then we do all of our hobby stuff together for the most part. Last night I lost my temper with her. I was under the car trying to get the damn cable set up correctly. She was up top trying the movement of the shift lever. I got up and saw her yanking on the lever trying to make it go into reverse and was horrified. [emoji50]
I yelled at her "What the Hell are you doing!" "You're going to break something!" [emoji35][emoji36]
Yeah...not cool. She stormed off and left.
Ugh.....we later talked about it. I of course apologized. She said she wasn't yanking on the lever even though it looked that way to me.
The struggle is real.....
The funny thing is when we get the car all done we will have all kinds of people saying "Wow must be nice..wish I could have a Delorean." At that point they may get punched by me or my wife. [emoji38]


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[82DMC12]

Regarding going into reverse, the best way is to lift the shifter up when it is in neutral, then basically put it into second gear. I think it could be problematic moving the shifter all the way to the left before lifting it.

Also, been there done that with the wife which is probably why I almost never asked her to help me with any car projects anymore LOL

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[SupercoolBill]

Last night we worked on the car for a few hours. We were not real focused on what we were doing. It seems like that happens sometimes on these projects. Especially if it has been a long day and you're tired. We tried to figure out where some of the vacuum lines went. The spent a long time looking though disassembly photos trying to figure out routing for the right side parking brake cable. I found a O-ring to replace the old one in the crankcase vent. It fits nice and tight now. I decided at the last minute to seal off my WUR and vapor blast it. Unfortunately I forgot that I had recently changed to course media in the blaster. So it came out looking quite dull. Oh well. I blew it off and blew the ports out after. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/0a23d76a60c8b70c42329c4055753bcf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/256d4657e342609fc9aba150be156c5d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/0155e60fedbc52f79c872276d772eca2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/2e69da6a7d2e3f61891fb7f576c3fc55.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We also worked a bit on the fuel lines. It seemed like the fuel line kit we got from D-Ind didn't come with a banjo bolt long enough for the connection at the fuel filter so my wife ended up using the original bolt after cleaning it up a bit. We used new copper washers on it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/efcafd733dddb9e93542f730cdb9e70b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The last thing we did was adjust the coilovers to approximately 11 threads showing on the front and 19 on the back. This is what Andy's car is adjusted to so I figure it is a good starting point. Locking down the adjustment rings is kind of awkward.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/618405f0dd31767885aabcc9c4dddcd3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/b76d0c54e40fc94e19e6f1fa1222002d.jpg

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[Helirich]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/b76d0c54e40fc94e19e6f1fa1222002d.jpg

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You have all the cool tools.

[82DMC12]

You have all the cool tools.I ordered some better wrenches from summit racing for my coilovers. These work way better than dicking around with those little tools and ratchets.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-t114w

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[SupercoolBill]

I ordered some better wrenches from summit racing for my coilovers. These work way better than dicking around with those little tools and ratchets.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-t114w

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/420c22f069786c216a1dbce599573998.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Oh I forgot. I also installed the fuel distributor with a new oring. I put some clear synthetic grease on the o-ring area for sealing and to prevent the bare metal from rusting. I installed the fuel distributor with some new SS screws with copper anti-seize of course. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/9c2718147fd7427374ef52cc1601c4c0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/d8f2905069a5a42d5e3adaec314c4a96.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240308/9a4f98f3e0420adf3499fd063300a0a3.jpg

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[Rich]

You can be forgiven for worrying something might break. The reverse lockout roll pin is the thing that might fail but I've never heard of one failing.

Once you get the hang of driving the car you'll seldom mash the shifter into the lockout. Lifting the shifter as it's moved left is easy. You may want to replace the old pin now as a "while in there" job. Just be sure it's secure/tight.

Glad you smoothed out the situation between you two.

And thanks to both of you for sharing the fine journalism and photo work. It's a very nice thread to keep up with.


It has been a challenge....
She was up top trying the movement of the shift lever. I got up and saw her yanking on the lever trying to make it go into reverse and was horrified. [emoji50]
I yelled at her "What the Hell are you doing!" "You're going to break something!" [emoji35][emoji36]
Yeah...not cool. She stormed off and left.
Ugh.....we later talked about it. I of course apologized. She said she wasn't yanking on the lever even though it looked that way to me.
The struggle is real.....

[SupercoolBill]

Thanks Rich

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[AussieDMC]

Just wanted to say what a great job you’re doing. I’m doing a similar resto with my car so I appreciate the hard work you’re doing. Thanks for sharing your progress, keep it up!

[SupercoolBill]

Just wanted to say what a great job you?re doing. I?m doing a similar resto with my car so I appreciate the hard work you?re doing. Thanks for sharing your progress, keep it up!Thanks AussieDMC.
I feel like a blog or forum like this is the best media platform for sharing this type information.
I have friends that are professionals in media, advertising, etc. And we have joked about how I should have done YouTube videos with my wife doing most of the work, her and I arguing,.etc. We probably could have had enough views to be making some money off this. Oh well. If I can help someone else out by posting on here it's worth it.

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for six hours yesterday (Saturday).
We have been focused on the drivetrain and frame. I decided to jump back on working on the body. There are jobs that are a lot easier to do while the engine and frame is removed from the car. My wife removed the louvered engine cover hinges, the engine compartment light switch holder+bar, and worked on replacing the power antenna. While in the left pontoon she found the metal tank in there so she removed that for reconditioning. Sure nobody is going to ever see it but why not just fix it up. [emoji1745]
For the life of me I can't understand why DMC uses S.S. bolts with regular nuts. What a mess! I managed to find a couple S.S. nuts and washers for the wife to use on the power antenna mounting bracket. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/f79156f27c78163277b32722384cf095.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/350d1c1e6114d2a9d2cc1169538e9c5e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/e085160432a56c37e5763983a546d5be.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/927267071667f4cb53ccd1f3bd331c94.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/4195e4b2a7fe1ddcafd8d98fd9697eb9.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

While she was working on that I went to work on the engine bay. While working we kept backing into each other. It was pretty funny. I started chasing the threads on the rivnuts but after doing one and testing it with a bolt I decided not to do any more. The bolt fit kind of loose. I have been suspicious of my tap and die set not being sizes correctly for a while. I tested a rivnut with a bolt. The bolt went in fine but the tap was cutting threads. It's official my taps....or at least this one, is a bit oversized. So I cleaned the rest of the rivnuts with a wire brush.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/404fbb12aa07d754e6c2a20a14e8aaee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/14936e94ca57f7638ad2f126aabd411f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I had one rivnut that spun during disassembly and one that the bolt snapped off in. So I re-set the spinning rivnut and replaced the one with a broken bolt in it. My tool didn't go down small enough so I had to use a different style tool. It is slower but I actually like this option better.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/5f9e650f71c24eed21e1ad1ad49377d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/6de286e153419d1411fa8eb50aa77963.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/f6386848eb9c280933292213a8e57084.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/eee45db5368864841d36776578fbce4e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/62bfa43ee225d61898f9fed2d7e79c90.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I moved the hardware for mounting the antenna and my wife got frustrated with me because she wasn't sure how to put it back together. So I helped her figure it out. Also the antenna bracket had adjustments for the antenna with slotted holes on the base and oversized hole on top. I powered up the antenna so I could extend it a few inches for proper positioning in the car. We lined it up and locked everything down. Then we tested the antenna again just for fun. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/3a27855190364ebc3aedc0d7ec8c23f9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/cd1dde5f35ed9b7d77b02edd2a07c7bb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/6ae7c2e22c0ed569d6dcc1f0d3307e36.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I removed some more parts for reconditioning. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/f4a907b2ce692f207ba26d3a75397f91.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/4301f6203b0019fc5ae00a333cdbc023.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/b96833dde02ff2641bae39d60ac4f8a9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/13ae66782eb379a4c60911e621408ca0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The wife glass bead blasted parts, primed, and painted them while I was working on this stuff.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/e32b6a6a30bb29a261a942cd093e1c02.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/7e2fe0c5b92af5643f8fbade2c382afd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/ddab5d87edc86f6d4e7356344ef2320d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I removed these little straps for now. I may replace them with some black plastic 1 hole clipshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/7d2fcd9546bc95232d0e1af9875da1fb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/d4bcf7a72623819735392ed7270ef47e.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

As part of the "While you're in there" protocol I inspected the wiring that is normally inaccessible. Low and behold what do I find? Melted wiring 🫤
I stripped back the wrap to see how far the damage went. Luckily it is very isolated. I should be able to just replace two 3" sections of wiring or perhaps just remove the pins from the connector, put heat shrink over the two wires, and pop the pins back in. The next question...why did these wires melt? I think I may have figured this out. This is the power feed to the engine compartment light and light switch. The light switch was all messed up on the car so that is probably what happened.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/f27aeda4ba0e78a9c8782fda50d7846b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/b7633b279db2e80edbf2d766b17e8346.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/5eb5ffd71fb9d03be7b4474f43f151d9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/5bbaa097301405dd89a13b09ae6df760.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I wanted to remove these hinges for reconditioning, but this is easier said than done. You need to remove the upper trim piece. Easy enough right? Nope. You can't remove this without remove the side interior panels. These are in bad shape in a lot of the cars that I have seen but ours are not so I am not too keen on trying to remove them. Anyone know a way to safely get to these nuts with breaking something?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/bac01741eebca8ae181fb8411ff17406.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/cd1ffddca613c8cfed43e9cd6682993d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/8ef351d97c72f0a5e51b4f5e94f9768a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/c9cba022c9cb52040487d2892215f18f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I cleaned up the pontoons/engine bay with simple green and cleaning wipes. During this I discovered some cracks near the left engine cover hinge. I am wondering what would have caused this. Maybe the hinge was siezed at one point and someone pried the cover open. I am not too worried about this since the car is frame-on-body construction. The tub is not structural. There should be too much if any water getting into this area..I mean heck...we will probably never even drive the car in the rain. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/391507c4cea8f13ca167392a0e5e7810.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/e7468de129b4954a62ef6f6d05e61db3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/5893ae9d88be7631af254aa4bcf9d3d2.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I tested armor all on the left side. It's hard to tell from the picture but it didn't look that great after. Better than it looked before but still pretty rough. I tried Restore To Black on the right side. This side came out shiny which was nice but left a weird pattern on it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/2ff347b0056b5a4d0c509c0ae7bed07c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/d5d792194e0acc0f583d0792ddb8dec3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/58661e86349ac30f51578abc2c017a32.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/ebf8e65d09444d59cc45e75048beb8a8.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I tried to clean up the firewall with no luck. It looks like someone tried to spruce up the engine bay with spray paint at some point and it doesn't want to come off.
Unfortunately I think we are going to have to prep and paint the engine bay. Ugh....[emoji19]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240310/9ad51eafd01b6bec180bb9124da10678.jpg

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[Timeless]

I wanted to remove these hinges for reconditioning, but this is easier said than done. You need to remove the upper trim piece. Easy enough right? Nope. You can't remove this without remove the side interior panels. These are in bad shape in a lot of the cars that I have seen but ours are not so I am not too keen on trying to remove them. Anyone know a way to safely get to these nuts with breaking something?
Yes. I recently replaced my original hinges and I put a tiny bit of PB blaster on the threads. The nuts came off no problem. Another tip: Reinstalling the plastic rear board with the dome light in the car is a PITA with screws so I installed studs (M6 i think) in the holes. This way I can put the board in with cargo net clips, then push it back and install the nuts on the studs.
70404

[SupercoolBill]

Yes. I recently replaced my original hinges and I put a tiny bit of PB blaster on the threads. The nuts came off no problem. Another tip: Reinstalling the plastic rear board with the dome light in the car is a PITA with screws so I installed studs (M6 i think) in the holes. This way I can put the board in with cargo net clips, then push it back and install the nuts on the studs.
70404So do the side trim pieces both need to be removed to get this panel to come out?

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[FABombjoy]

No, they don't. There is enough flex to remove the part without taking the sides off.

[SupercoolBill]

No, they don't. There is enough flex to remove the part without taking the sides off.[emoji51][emoji51][emoji51][emoji51]
Okay I'll give it a try

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[FABombjoy]

Well... on my car anyway. YDMV.
It's pretty flimsy, you may be able to just let it hang far enough to get a ratcheting box end wrench on the nuts.

[SupercoolBill]

Well... on my car anyway. YDMV.
It's pretty flimsy, you may be able to just let it hang far enough to get a ratcheting box end wrench on the nuts.True....I didn't think of that. It is kind of [ shaped though.

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[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car for 4 hours last night.
The wife....okay I'm changing from "the wife" to Tam. The wife just sounds too weird when you keep saying it over and over. Tam cleaned up parts in the glass bead blaster.

I started by spending way too much time trying to fix the melted wiring. If anyone has ever dealt with overheated wiring you know how much of a pain it is. The wiring has melted to insulation so you can't simply strip the insulation off the wire. You have to score the insulation around the OD then score it lengthwise. If you're lucky you can then peel the insulation off the wire. If you're not lucky...like I was, you'll have to tediously, surgically remove the insulation from the wiring one strand at a time and sometimes this doesn't even work. This was my situation.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/e5120f6d40517a9cc45bcdebff735026.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/e9f6c03a431525b918864f981156d197.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I don't have one of the special de-pinning tools so i had to keep constant tension on the wire while also trying to depress the tabs on the pin. After 15 minutes of pain and suffering I was able to get the first pin removed.
The connection is very tightly made and didn't want to open up. At this point I decided I just needed new pins or a good section of wire with a good pin attached still. Then I'll cut back the car end and splice it in. I messaged Josh at D-Ind. He said that they keep compromised harnesses just for this reason. Sweet!
I told him I need the violet and violet with white as long as he could get me. At least 4" would be good.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/e0a1112daaae4d5f03c7a651ffed3e33.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/95ea39c9f36345906a51277c10bbc332.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/1ebc3f51b0d27888809e15daed33bbce.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

This got me thinking....what does the OTHER SIDE of this wiring run look like? So I climbed up on the mezzanine where the rear facia is stored and checked the wiring. Sure enough...same thing. Violet and violet with white melted. Also I discovered what caused the meltdown. It looks like the wires chafed through and shorted out. Mystery solved. So I'll need this wiring also. From the plug connector to the loads or at least several feet out. Looking at this plug connector with female connections I am not sure how they would get removed from the plug connector...even with a special tool.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/5260252f8e72b8478589e09a2160690a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/cd6dc1818afed4e40cc2cf810072d00b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I stuffed the wiring harness into the car for now. Hopefully Josh or someone can hook me up with these wires. Next I removed the grounding lug. Kind of tricky because it just ends up spinning even though it is in a square hole. So you can either jam two nuts together on the stud or reach waaaaaaaay in through the right pontoon with a pair of pliers to hold it whole you or someone else loosens the nut. I couldn't seem to find another nut the correct size so I used some small Visegrips.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/d3be2a054ba5bdc241f6a79d96ebc72e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/f0523a81a6a99d22b7df646b8ade9076.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I took another stab at trying to remove the engine cover hinges. People on FB claimed that the long trim piece could be flexed enough to remove it and that the side trim pieces could be pushed back to gain more clearance. This didn't work for me unfortunately. I thought "Okay maybe they had these bracket plates removed." I mean it was hitting on them so maybe that was the problem. Besides I kind of wanted to remove them to clean up the studs and paint them.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/12d4f26aaa410e21543e8fa2e9c07b14.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Well this was easier said than done. The factory sound deadener needed to be removed first. The thought of this didn't bother too much since it probably should be replaced anyways. I had to fight for every inch though pulling and jamming a putty knife in there repeatedly.
Next issue, the brackets were glued onto the body with something. I almost broke my putty knife trying to get the passenger side off. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/d7e05f8b6181fe04c2b99e49fdae30ce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/3014383e6dacfae31f318a285a49c31c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/452cd447a9bbdbcde7cf7388e9700196.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

After all of that I STILL couldn't get the trim piece down. I just ended up pulling it down as far as I dared to and using a 1/4" drive ratchet with a shallow socket to remove the nuts. There are two nuts on each hinge and they came off too hard to use your fingers but loose enough that using a ratchet seemed ridiculous. It was a huge pain but I'm glad we removed the hinges. They were really rusty. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/939f0d44ff50e4139ef754fcc75a42bf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/6bcd979a74be53f2f59e220594f833e6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/f1e3a585e23a689ba4e009b2166d5ff8.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

While Tam was blasting the hinges I separated the charcoal canister from the panel and hoses so I can clean it and paint the panel. I keep the plugs and caps off anything that comes through our HVAC shop so I was able to find plugs to seal off the canister.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/b263b94406aed3f68157aeb2a2d60a27.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/8068eb5ec9808ec85f0973662cc0d750.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

After the hinges were cleaned up I could see that one was bent so it was crooked and the other was buckled a bit. With some work I was able to get them pretty straight. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/bb5d3a93b5ba7d0c978e85cadcc386c2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/5eb8765c429b10e10133e92fe0de78c3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/a11ad6180a8e06b4410ca02ca7d44eb7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240313/6928efe590f05646e26bd824589dfd73.jpg

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[r00b]

The reason they use stainless steel bolts with non stainless nuts is so they won't gall together. I had it happen on my trailer, I was was installing stainless bolts and nuts. most had no problem going on but one started binding, I tried to get it off and it froze. I had to use a hacksaw to get it off. Since then I use plated nuts with stainless bolts, or you could use some anti seize.

Since you got those hinges off, you might want to replace them with the stainless version. Use plated nuts with them, If you don't want the stainless hinges I'd stick with the originals. The DMCH versions are garbage, like all their reproduction parts. The threats pop off if you look at them wrong.

[ssdelorean]

>>snip<<

If you don't want the stainless hinges I'd stick with the originals. The DMCH versions are garbage, like all their reproduction parts. The threats pop off if you look at them wrong.

They are also conical shaped where the thread meets the bracket so they do not sit flush on the pontoon not fitting down into the holes. I bored out my pontoon a little bit and also slathered some black rtv in there to make water tight.

[SupercoolBill]

Thanks for the info guys.
Regarding the use of S.S. nuts with S.S. bolts I have never heard of this before. I have heard of and experienced this (galling and galvanic corrosion) when using dissimilar metals such as S.S. bolts in aluminum.
If I am putting S.S. nuts in aluminum I use anti-sieze but not aluminum based anti-seize. I use copper anti-seize. I'm not 100% sure I agree with there being an issue when using S.S. with S.S. I used to work on the HVAC and refrigeration systems on ocean going vessels and the standard practice on boats exposed to a salty environment was to use S.S. for all hardware. Nuts, bolts, washers, etc. and I never experienced an issue.

I could be wrong though...I have certainly been wrong before.

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[Helirich]

Thanks for the info guys.
Regarding the use of S.S. nuts with S.S. bolts I have never heard of this before. I have heard of and experienced this (galling and galvanic corrosion) when using dissimilar metals such as S.S. bolts in aluminum.
If I am putting S.S. nuts in aluminum I use anti-sieze but not aluminum based anti-seize. I use copper anti-seize. I'm not 100% sure I agree with there being an issue when using S.S. with S.S. I used to work on the HVAC and refrigeration systems on ocean going vessels and the standard practice on boats exposed to a salty environment was to use S.S. for all hardware. Nuts, bolts, washers, etc. and I never experienced an issue.

I could be wrong though...I have certainly been wrong before.

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They don?t always gall, but I will confirm it does happen. Dissimilar metal corrosion is a different problem. Not really heard of it between bolts and nuts. More of an issue where a steel plate gets bolted to a aluminum plate type of thing. I think I would use anti-seize on big SS hardware. Anything big enough to be a pita if it were to gall.

[SupercoolBill]

They don?t always gall, but I will confirm it does happen. Dissimilar metal corrosion is a different problem. Not really heard of it between bolts and nuts. More of an issue where a steel plate gets bolted to a aluminum plate type of thing. I think I would use anti-seize on big SS hardware. Anything big enough to be a pita if it were to gall.Yeah we just slather everything with anti-sieze. [emoji846]

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for 4 hours tonight. Tam blasted parts then painted them with semi-gloss black engine paint (gas resistant).
I started trying to mask off things for painting the engine bay and pontoons. At the same time I kept thinking about removing the side panels so that I didn't have to try masking everything off and so I could better paint the pontoons near the window area. I couldn't help myself. I decided to go for it.

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[SupercoolBill]

I started by trying to remove the screws from the bottom of the black plastic trim piece. Every screw either snapped off or stripped out. Fun...
So I drilled out the stripped screws. Now you can't just go hog wild drilling because the heat starts melting the plastic. So you have to drill a while, stop, drill a while, stop...so on.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/5aaf1d1221d87caa5d3f051aa857dd67.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/70f2f2e9a6c2fe77d4702ffdaec03a01.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/6f7e96c7fd16310a61663ef73f1148a7.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I removed the door gasket and then the sheetmetal screws. These came out easy. The rest of the bolts snapped off, stripped out, you name it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/852ddc26951f4bff49e265adda85644d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/a0baeceb62db99d5ad2c47b79fcad836.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/2d15d8bf4c317dce9398e449bce90f9c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/76093307352373a312cca15d03b7193d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Finally WAH-LA!!! THE LEFT SIDE PANEL WAS REMOVED!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/9accc4cc5f958bbb6074cf5f57aad689.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

One of the previous owners must have been a dentist. [emoji38] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/42956f85bc5aea25f825a6090b4fb736.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I'm glad I decided to remove the side panels. It is quite a mess in behind there.
These pieces in the back are bent so I a decided to try to remove them. The rusty steel nuts on the S.S. bolts were siezed on. I had vise grips on what was left of the nut and I only could get a few turns before it locked up. I can see that I am going to end up cutting these bolts out. That should be fun since they are S.S. through fiberglass.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/215643c673f3362da9fe89b27589cbbb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/90f39756d4553042398c9635bb236411.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/797c98df01c60ea2e7d305ba8eee83e2.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Some pics of Tam's handiwork. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/19ab18a126249b5649e3419caf4f69e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/0faea11b7f7cb40132f9f27971cf686d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240315/86d059fe74651a1f8c7b8dd76e7ada18.jpg

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[AugustneverEnds]

At least there were no furry residents living under your quarter panel. I found mouse nests under the intake manifold, the driver's side of the dashboard, and behind the quarter panel.

[SupercoolBill]

At least there were no furry residents living under your quarter panel. I found mouse nests under the intake manifold, the driver's side of the dashboard, and behind the quarter panel.Yeah thankfully no. I did however catch 26 mice in the basement of my house since December.

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car yesterday (Saturday) for 4 or 5 hours. I tried several coats of the Dupli-color semi-gloss black paint on the pontoon. I don't like how it is coming out so I'm going to go with something different.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240317/c0f17f2e8b2a3f2e31b81ee936964c81.jpg

[SupercoolBill]

Eric Woltkamp on the FB page said that a sink plunger from Home Depot had a rubber part that is a perfect fit for the intake seals. I picked up a set earlier in the day and low and behold he was right. They are a perfect fit. How do people figure this stuff out? [emoji848] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240317/eeb22071c8a2e76524516a53533bab59.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240317/f8b9cc1ac7d7e50fd6cba2d7cf660399.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240317/c31255fca32b98dc0ba8f7d48119b98b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240317/bcf5b72374df6e592b3335ae553e26bf.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I drilled out the screw heads on the right side plastic rocker. I hadn't done all of the screws on the driver's side so I went back and finished that side too. Then I removed the right side rear quarter panel. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/137f112f476f171fb36df31db7271017.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/92bd64b73b4ea6964e13a0f2fe83802e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/99cf89e942e8761e75afebd63dbe1c98.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/a43953ee5ed7ddb717715336b086184e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/7a1d88878818dd6813f735fbb63c692a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/86397517d3ab1bb42f277e31a35ce309.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I noticed that the tub is cracked at every rocker rivnut location. I'm thinking this isn't a serious issue since the car has a full frame. I still don't like it though. I'm thinking what happens is when the rivnut is swedged it puts outward pressure on the material and at some point it cracks.
Used a grinder with a 80 grit flapper wheel to grind the rivnuts flush with the tub. Then I used a hammer and punch to knock the rivnuts into the void. I had one that wouldn't budge and the tub started chipping away.
I decided "While I was in there" that I'd remove the screws that hold the plastic filler plates from the rear fender wells. Two screws actually came out. I couldn't believe it!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/ec5a4149389a1ebb44fbef8c71f96264.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/d63c58daff879d6852a1014a31b3e774.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/2d7bb745576bb4980f9a9a26fe8766b2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/bb0d881fbe4907323d0b67fc94024a10.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/f147a58f7e64957baa8fa64c158a911f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam removed the lower rear pieces (sorry don't know the name). These are the pieces with the super rusty nuts on SS bolts. She got pretty frustrated trying to clip visegrips onto the remains of nuts down inside the pontoons. After she got them removed she cleaned and blasted them to remove the old undercoating. These pieces are bent up, so we need to do some work on them.
I had picked up some brush paints earlier in the day. The little posts on these plates are not SS so they'll need to be painted. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/68e62009c8fef58e552d66527a3628cd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/13275352283bcf03861570ddd9286012.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/ef5d8031e3d5a08d49dcbdf23edb01f8.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I have never heard of anyone else doing this but I think I am going to NOT install rivnuts but instead use the more modern plastic push pin fasteners. Not sure if that is the correct name or not but that's what I call them.
I may get some flack from Delorean purist but I think the rivnuts to hold the plastic rockers on is a horrible option.
Here are the advantages of these modern fasteners in my personal opinion-
1. They will never rust or corrode
2. They are inexpensive
3. They are readily available from most any auto parts store
4. They are quick to install and should be quick to remove if needed
5. They look nice and should blend into the black plastic fairly well.
6. They are well proven for this type of use in the automotive industry

I just need to decide what style, diameter, and length to use. The ones with the Philips heads look the part and fit perfectly with no redrilling even needed but one think I do not like about these is the Philips recess tends to strip out when trying to remove the fastener or you spin and spin and spin but it doesn't loosen unless you pry on the fastener at the same time while loosening.
Even if I did go this route (the screw type) I think it would be a be better than rivenuts and screws.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/db378623438937251372c5339dffc0a5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/d5a4f8a6e3f2b80f0dbdc962c3eeb99f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/5235ab9d922060765c03ae39efc4349f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/90fffc0869a850fdd5c60d77b62af9d9.jpg

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[82DMC12]

I have never heard of anyone else doing this but I think I am going to NOT install rivnuts but instead use the more modern plastic push pin fasteners. Not sure if that is the correct name or not but that's what I call them.
I may get some flack from Delorean purist but I think the rivnuts to hold the plastic rockers on is a horrible option.
Here are the advantages of these modern fasteners in my personal opinion-
1. They will never rust or corrode
2. They are inexpensive
3. They are readily available from most any auto parts store
4. They are quick to install and should be quick to remove if needed
5. They look nice and should blend into the black plastic fairly well.

I just need to decide what style, diameter, and length to use. The ones with the Philips heads look the part and fit perfectly with no redrilling even needed but one think I do not like about these is the Philips recess tends to strip out when trying to remove the fastener or you spin and spin and spin but it doesn't loosen unless you pry on the fastener at the same time while loosening.
Even if I did go this route (the screw type) I think it would be a be better than rivenuts and screws.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/db378623438937251372c5339dffc0a5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/d5a4f8a6e3f2b80f0dbdc962c3eeb99f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/5235ab9d922060765c03ae39efc4349f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240318/90fffc0869a850fdd5c60d77b62af9d9.jpg

Sent from my SM-F926U1 using TapatalkPretty sure David Hudgins did exactly that, with the push fasteners.

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[SupercoolBill]

Pretty sure David Hudgins did exactly that, with the push fasteners.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkNice. Is he on this forum?

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[82DMC12]

Nice. Is he on this forum?

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yeah it's painterdave72

[SupercoolBill]

yeah it's painterdave72Okay
It would make it easier if people just used their name on here. [emoji1]

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[r00b]

I've always thought a truck bed liner spray would look good on the pontoon. Have you considered that instead of painting it?
I'd like to see how those push pin fasteners turn out.

[Timeless]

I've always thought a truck bed liner spray would look good on the pontoon. Have you considered that instead of painting it?
I looked into Line-X, Rhino or Raptor for my trunk. I have dealers in my area for all 3. I think I may go with Line-X although it will most likely be done next year.
Here's a sample of Raptor found online:
70439

[SupercoolBill]

I've always thought a truck bed liner spray would look good on the pontoon. Have you considered that instead of painting it?
I'd like to see how those push pin fasteners turn out.I considered this option but I feel like rough surface would be harder to keep clean. I painted the custom off road bumpers with bedliner and ended up regretting it. Once again because they were difficult to clean.

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[Timeless]

I considered this option but I feel like rough surface would be harder to keep clean. I painted the custom off road bumpers with bedliner and ended up regretting it. Once again because they were difficult to clean.
This is what I experienced with Raptor in a different application. It seems Line-X has less coarse finish which is why I am leaning towards that. I will speak with my body guy regarding repainting before making a decision.

[SupercoolBill]

Yeah I screwed up on my post and now it won't let me change it. What I was trying to say is that I used to be into off roading. I owned several Suzuki Samurais. I Rynolined the inside of the tube and my custom built bumpers. After they got dirty, no matter how much I tried, they never looked clean after that. I had buddies that did thier whole vehicle and the same thing happened. They always looked grungy.
Like you said though different brands may leave a different finish

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[SupercoolBill]

We are still waiting on our engine harness and other parts from D-Ind. I am not sure what the hold up is.

We worked on the car tonight after work for 3-4 hours. I taped off the rear window, holes in the tub etc. to prep for paint. Tam needed something to work on so we pulled the rear facia out of storage. She started trying to take it apart. I also dug out the rear bumper insert.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/04c50b19ccb0c7a72e19ae4526cd4be8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/6dda138220ac0ad37b0d591efbc20a81.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I sanded the engine bay and pontoons with 120 grit sandpaper until I used up what I had left for sandpaper.
I helped Tam on the rear facia. Someone needs to make a fiberglass rear facia. This thing is a floppy mess. The harness is in rough shape. It needs the pink wires for the engine bay light as previously mentioned but it also needs new connectors for the taillights, plate lights, etc.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/a79fa3999ec1ba05edd2deecb3396105.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/90b9e993afb1b5c9cbe635e87713d13a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I went to work on the rear bumper insert. I can honestly say this is one of the most enjoyable jobs I have done on the car so far. I used a putty knife to peel of the flaking original coating. I used my grinder with an 80 grit flap wheel to clean corrosion off the aluminum part and also used it to clean up and shape the foam some. I painted the bumper insert with black Flexseal. I didn't want wait until tomorrow to flip the bumper insert and paint the other side. So I flipped it over getting Flexseal all over my hands. I found out that nothing takes this stuff off from your hands. Oops. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/01b6781d2617af790e452ed015ab47fc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/80da0eb93aa9f89a514cd09cce197ff7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/2c0babba6cc6a34c218b3446bea97cdc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/0e4920435ee5c092387ddf99458cb1ea.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The bumper came out pretty nice.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/d246948736c93d346010458c87f30631.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/3a202d7bbfa2f9c7474a2faf6468213c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

My primer showed up today. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/7367e7f479db815f745b53da636fb751.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I am not sure why these special nuts were used here on the car. There is already a heavy duty metal angle bracket with four bolts on each side to hold the rear facia on. It seems like these are redundant. If you look up what they are used for it doesn't really seem to match up with the use on the car. [emoji1745]
The cool thing is it looks like they sell them at Napa. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/2cda7529488bfe5f6a95ace3dc98f8ef.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/6955935ef2558a8f38b56d478c0ea858.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240321/9a7b24b24bd0509e4066a4a7aafa7709.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Not a ton of comments from other people on here but it says 127,000 views which is pretty impressive so I'll keep posting. Maybe someday I will pay someone to convert this to some sort of a website.

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[SupercoolBill]

Today I entered my house through the basement door and found a package that looked like it had been there awhile. It was my spanners for adjusting the coilovers. I had ordered these from Summit racing per thr advice of Andy L. (82 DMC12).https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240322/89bce9067c236bbec3606f1202efd6de.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240322/96ea4c5e82538659c7bbf4e8534eb96f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

So...kind of ironic. I was setting up a new washer and dryer at the house and while grabbing a tool out of my toolbox I spotted this push pin. I think this may the exact dimensions and type that I am looking for. Now I just need to figure out what car or truck it goes to. Napa has a binder with one of each type in it. Hopefully they have this one and I can match it up. Well, I'll test fit it first. THEN if it is a good fit I'll go to Napa. I'm trying to avoid drilling out the holes any larger. That way if for some reason, I wanted to go back to rivnuts I could. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240322/d868bb0cd5686258dc832f22a1aa27c7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240322/ae69e4aec1ca2fa6b7ddb68b36f51c96.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240322/cb3da3f5c66daec0790e0009286a2195.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240322/586912eac70a9b8ae4f6655e52c0128b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We finally got winter in Maine today so we spent some time working on the car today. 10 hours total.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/1c0f1b4c44669e14a7178d845fc24063.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

My ADHD kicked in so I was all over the place.
Tammie started by removing the rivets from the engine bay light. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/86a96e0b1fe2f6252cdf4fcd896dc681.jpg
I tested my plastic push pin. First I tested it with two washer then one washer. It worked great with either thickness. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/4d65937fc3da2344097ec2592392fd0e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/1b1b3c1a9586a54f5fa96b08fe59f184.jpg
I used my special tool to remove the push pin. Brilliant!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/f819e633c4194718997a2c40e84bb86a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I did a Dunkin run and went to Napa while Tam worked of blasting parts that will get painted.
I looked in the binder and found the push pin number to match the one I had. Unfortunately they only had one pack of them (9) so I ordered more.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/92744b287c44235623028273c2bbaa2f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/a2c1f3b8dcbb5565e25340514f884db0.jpg

I also found some wellnuts the correct thread size and O.D. they are shorter but that should be fine.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/0895dc1ea2d35d8a74af8e07640b5582.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/6128c55ff0d412390caa0dbf22e16715.jpg
I bought more engine paint while at Napa also.

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[SupercoolBill]

When I got back Tam was working on stripping the engine cover.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/035580e13b710f704af3246b0e3c40f8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/525c5f83023b59166ec419017b857c2a.jpg
I did more prep work on the engine bay. And moooore saaaanding.....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/a5b1f2b203a79bbfa454212be96a8a80.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I made the decision to remove the asbestos heat shield. The exhaust we will be running won't have a crossover pipe so the heat shield is not needed. I'm glad I removed because the mounts were really rusty. Drilling the rivets was like drilling white powder. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/3234b5b3087e948ed86a8ae24af78f3e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/35be1cc07a09a52e564deea52a0e710d.jpg
I tried punching the rivets up through but they didn't want to go. I got thinking...why do I need to remove the rivets? I don't so I just glazed over them with some black RTV silicone.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/5620753dc0ee16d473e19ee2e1edf131.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I decided to start cleaning the tub. This is the ADHD part. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/5dd4337a850ac8fc14464556da06eb54.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/442e3d88e3d34eaeca0bf502feb637b7.jpg

I found some numbers etched into the left pontoon. Kind of interesting.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/dd8418c2602d7e015ae5df2b99bcb3d1.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next I spent some time messing around with the engine cover. One of the threaded inserts spun and came out of the fiberglass. I chased the threads then put it back in with some bearing retainer compound on it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/2d1b601d52346e35f562de6324df97ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/e27c1cbc9907aa8f716ee9414e481bc7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/a35082777cd51c0370471da231dafc0f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I cleaned and scuffed up the rear closing plate. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/d361a00dd99487910d4e02ef2bb96747.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/4b0d151a8b4e1ca2f007b51386249769.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I cleaned the cover with some Simple Green before heading out for the night.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240324/013867f44e49ea1c4ca04b2946f7bc6c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Forgot to add that we spent a bunch of time messing with the glass bead blaster. It wasn't working well at all for some reason.

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for around 6 hours Sunday (yesterday). While Tam was finishing blasting parts I decided that I would remove the brake booster so we could paint that also. What a mess and what a pain to remove!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240325/7be114871667240a853d23d1f65fb0ce.jpg
They used #3 Philips screws with lock nuts to hold the clutch m.c. on. I didn't realize that there was a nut on the other side at first so I wasted time spinning the bolt for nothing. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240325/c70b0728e5f8020c5b909aab34e79632.jpg
I tried a hand impact first with no luck. The trick ended up being a box end wrench in the trunk and a 1/2" impact with a #3 bit in it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240325/b7c7a3aee9bb013cc1ded087464364c6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The nuts for the brake m.c. we're fun to get out also.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240325/6f2eefed1062dc9bc4822a01dd0afc9a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240325/493879a7cc92ed5e10e3047a674025d3.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Wow what a mess!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240325/50e2c72acdd98712081877951621abcb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240325/312bb4018486116cfded004621821a00.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I found some nice SS Allen head bolts and lock nuts to replace the Philips bolts and rusty nuts. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240325/44a74ce3499e4ede23c7573b57147e06.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240325/c6a153c28b9e3f7d58f56f95d89768a3.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam scuffed up the engine cover with scotchbrite and wiped it down with acetone. Same thing with the rear closing plate.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/ddf875e2c0f7d1a92a7133726acfeea9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/9d6023e22449826ca0a2ca9e8875e8a4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/36b5b4986c96a78586f0441624a8ca97.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam blasted the engine cover screens and windshield wiper arms.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/c0551d03ae6b4d4253665f4da6a09436.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I set up the primer can I had bought and prepared to prime the pontoons. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/5744d8aba80a9a2e098f35ddf9b150c8.jpg
The primer came out awesome..well aside from imperfections in the fiberglass. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/ad53626e8bdb6426829cb51d56883bdc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/dbf84f48d3545cc30140bc59ba20aac9.jpg
I kind of wish this was the finished product.

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[SupercoolBill]

Next I broke the seal on the semi-gloss topcoat and laid down some paint....it looked like crap. It looked like there was sand in the paint or something. I also didn't like how it was laying down. Ugh.....
It's hard to see in the second pic but it was pretty bad. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/d4c3e4ee174c5714c399b6520ab56e66.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/d8c3a6fb516702b224f5cdc66dc96c21.jpg
My wife came over because she heard me yelling and cursing. She recognized the issue. There were thousands of tiny pores in the fiberglass and that's what I was seeing in the paint. I stopped painting and tried to wipe off the paint with a rag and acetone. It didn't work. It just made a mess. FML...[emoji37]
At this point we called it a night.

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[SupercoolBill]

I started having second thoughts about the new paint I tried. It is more expensive, harder to get, had to be used once the can was mixed, and seemed a lot more dangerous (judging from the warnings on the can). The other paint from Napa seemed to be working pretty well. But does it really hold up to being exposed to fuel? Well I conducted a test today. What do you know? The fuel didn't damage the paint in any way!! Pretty sweet for a cheap rattle can paint that doesn't have to be mixed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/844dcc2dedb4a9294a6bf1b6dfed4cff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/f1706aee7da58c7f7570c6885e46d54b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/84f20f6804459599b4a8f7c27db9faef.jpg

The discoloration pattern you see isn't from the fuel it is where I touched up the paint after the first coat was dry.

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[SupercoolBill]

So now I have a decision to make. Use the new 2k two part paint or go back to the Dupli-color Napa paint.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/c9d73079125e4d7165ea8629dd63d117.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I went back to Napa. I found it interesting that they had both of these. Aren't they pretty much the same thing?
I bought a bunch of stuff and headed back to the shop.
I bought pink wire to fix my engine bay light wiring then when I got back I remembered it was purple wire I needed not pink. Duh.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/837aad983c1cbb14394d42098533e5dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240326/19fc8299a0c9929378428225481d0773.jpg

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[Timeless]

Have you considered the Wurth semi-gloss black paint? It's a wonderful product that lays down well without primer. It was recommended over SEM by my body shop owner. I like it a lot.

[SupercoolBill]

Have you considered the Wurth semi-gloss black paint? It's a wonderful product that lays down well without primer. It was recommended over SEM by my body shop owner. I like it a lot.Is it fuel proof?

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[Timeless]

Is it fuel proof?
That I cannot confirm.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Is it fuel proof?

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I have yet to find any colored paint to be fuel proof. Clear Poly brush paint seems pretty good but the spray cans that claim colored poly seem just as bad as any other paint. "Steel It" paint is a little better then the rest but it only comes in black and is very expensive.

[SupercoolBill]

I have yet to find any colored paint to be fuel proof. Clear Poly brush paint seems pretty good but the spray cans that claim colored poly seem just as bad as any other paint. "Steel It" paint is a little better then the rest but it only comes in black and is very expensive.The engine paint I have used is "Fuel and oil resistant" I tested it and it seems to be fuel proof.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

The engine paint I have used is "Fuel and oil resistant" I tested it and it seems to be fuel proof.

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Will it wipe without any paint on the towel after it gets fuel on it?

[SupercoolBill]

Will it wipe without any paint on the towel after it gets fuel on it?Yes see my above posts

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes see my above posts

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Thanks. I will have to try that engine paint.

[SupercoolBill]

Thanks. I will have to try that engine paint.Yeah for the price it works really well for parts and such. We have talked about using it for the engine bay, engine cover, etc. But I'm thinking it isn't the best paint to use for that stuff.

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[SupercoolBill]

I think I may have missed a session of working on the car. Trying to get caught up on posts.
Parts from D-go ordered way after I ordered my parts from D-Ind showed up the other day. I'm pretty frustrated with D-Ind. I need the engine wiring harness. Josh is ghosting me now. Here's what showed up from D-go.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/5bc7363361fe59714ba421f23540fc08.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

During a lunch break I swapped out my frame to body square nuts with nice shiny new ones. The original ones weren't that bad but new ones were cheap. An extendable magnet worked good for this task. A couple of them were wedged in and had to be knocked loose with a hammer and punch. Poor engineering. The nuts should have been a bit larger or the holders a bit smaller. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/50dab121178759ffda229adde2b63819.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/53e4271ecf5baca111100cd601c272de.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/fb9c3aadfe4372d79c3ba39a35123fae.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/ac5c3597dfbf60c8d72371f4adfb1e85.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I was killing time at a discount tool place and bought some sanding disks and some wiring to be used to make new ground wires. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/e45e21b865c5d6a48a3fee584dd1a524.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I also had a large wire crimp tool that I ordered online show up. I can't believe I didn't already have one of these. In typical weird Amazon tool fashion it came with a bunch of crimp on ring connectors...mmmmokay. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/328dd92f5d08e6ad0ff4990c79ff02ce.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Okay back to today, Saturday.
I decided to sand down the paint on the pontoons and engine bay. I had used a sanding disk to remove some black RTV from the engine bay. I got a bit too aggressive and left gouges in the fiberglass. So I mixed up some body filler and fixed a bunch of divets in the fiberglass. Of course I later found a couple areas I mixed so I had mix up more. After the filler dried I sanded and blended it in. Meanwhile Tam was working on other parts.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/af928e3816f21b288a460bb0af0957a0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/2717fd323a0580a72333170dc3f30450.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/837c5d4cb45a3c9f5e2d761233bb09eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/ea9b31c2c833c8697bd71601bc796e36.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We talked about the engine bay paint. SEM trim black was strongly considered. That would give a matte finish which wouldn't show the imperfections but it wouldn't be fuel proof or the correct finish. I said screw it and went with the 2k Hot Rod Satin Black. This time I reminded myself to not freak out when it looked really shiny at first. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/12925058856b09a7bc81d33ec1c17ade.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/d69549862b355a1cb141f9a58c92ff48.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

After it dried. Far from perfect but basically back to origonal.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/a8c418879c3bdef216261151a4dbd8d9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/08737c67fc7d665c645aa21437ae6979.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/12b51801ed13d41b443ae50e0ca7de69.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Rear closing plate repainted.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/a74146caeece5f2a3f54fe1ece1550f0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/8eadb08430fb98d5b90f65e891ccf2f2.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Painted the access panel for the evap canister.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/3287f36d3f9df7db2de590b8ea1b846a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tammie blasted the brake booster. Man this thing is really pitted. We may just replace it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/d47d4f2f2988ac3abf604d2e025d95b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240330/1bf7df60f313d3ef7d9e18de8ec24d54.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Just for the heck of it I did some searching on line. I found what looks to be the same brake booster for a lot cheaper. I'm not knocking the Delorean vendors at all. I get it, they need to make a profit. We do the same.thing at our HVAC business.
My worry with ordering one of these cheaper options is I order one which appears correct but then it doesn't match up completely right and I've wasted my time.
Of course there is the option of continuing trying to recondition ours and not buying either.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240331/7a5c7c51db8f0c87cd4352b780ff74dd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240331/9a2e5881838aa2da6e437195d0ee3b96.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240331/6ea7605ed3ba061320c3569e29839516.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

An update. Josh from D-Ind got back to me. He said he will be talking to his shipping department to make sure our stuff gets shipped out ASAP. He told the reason he hadn't be replying to any of my texts over the past week was because he had three deaths in his family. So now I feel like a total jerk for getting upset that he wasn't answering my texts. [emoji51][emoji849]

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[Delorean Industries]

An update. Josh from D-Ind got back to me. He said he will be talking to his shipping department to make sure our stuff gets shipped out ASAP. He told the reason he hadn't be replying to any of my texts over the past week was because he had three deaths in his family. So now I feel like a total jerk for getting upset that he wasn't answering my texts. [emoji51][emoji849]

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Bill, don't feel bad about it. You were messaging me on my personal Facebook account, where you normally reach me at. Out of respect for my wife's family and the ongoing chaos, I have focused intensely on "being where your feet are" at any given moment and making sure my attention is supporting them along with our children. Crazy how quickly social media can fade into the background as an afterthought. It has been an intense few weeks, with more to come, unfortunately. I had sent you on messenger company contact avenues other than my personal messenger. Our shipping manager has your contact info and will be following up today.

[SupercoolBill]

Okay great thanks. Once again sorry for your loss. My thoughts and prayers are with you and your family. And you know I actually mean it when I say that.

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[SupercoolBill]

I had to get a replacement phone because my Samsung Z-Fold 3 was dying. I got a used Z-Fold 4 for $250. What a pain setting everything up again. It took my a half hour to get back into Tapatalk.
I could do much today with my phone being unavailable because Tam was swapping phones for me.
It was sunny and warm out so I opened the garage door and painted the brake booster. I used etching primer and semi-gloss engine paint.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/3839a4ccc5e08c893133ab2dc915606e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/f3de71e3f8b1919c724de7426e06817f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I used my air gun to blow all the sand and crap out of this area on both sides.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/2bb61ff10eba34552b9eabc6df814739.jpg
I found a few rivnuts that I forgot to grind off so I took care of them.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/cbade178982dff9e6ee951638b4ca878.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I brought out the right side quarter panel and cleaned the body side of it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/6a7fb9bdf0bac3bed1026a5302c3d536.jpg
Some factory writing which makes sense with the date of manufacturing on the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/13f5d1f98fa2f3500f5bcff018ee9dba.jpg
I found some old body damage that someone had fixed. I was really surprised that the fender looked fine on the outside but like this inside.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/53a511b9a5aa8fa545804496cea2756d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/f4a216036765736b2f4d578070d1ac33.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

It was so nice out that I had to take one of my motorcycles for a quick ride.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/cab204ea20399d378406963da2f80652.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I took inventory on parts to install the quarter panels, etc. I'll have to hit up the hardware store tomorrow.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240402/b49c444a2c4614e0d721b10ce13ba157.jpg

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[FLUX @88]

Sorry for your loss Josh.


Bill, don't feel bad about it. You were messaging me on my personal Facebook account, where you normally reach me at. Out of respect for my wife's family and the ongoing chaos, I have focused intensely on "being where your feet are" at any given moment and making sure my attention is supporting them along with our children. Crazy how quickly social media can fade into the background as an afterthought. It has been an intense few weeks, with more to come, unfortunately. I had sent you on messenger company contact avenues other than my personal messenger. Our shipping manager has your contact info and will be following up today.

[SupercoolBill]

I missed a bunch of hardware on my last order. So I went to Napa then to a hardware store. It is such a waste of time a ripoff buying hardware like this.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/9a648c3346bdb7ab637fd18af7fadb9f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/7dc128940ac992a2334b47c5abcbe9af.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/e31a243905ed5fec5c407efdab9ea5b4.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 5P-7:30.
I installed some new rivnuts, installed wheel well pieces, and caulked the seam. The holes for the rivnuts were nice and snug so I had to tap them in.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/9cbf793d63479669745d396fb21bcd02.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/1652755f3980903710dde2138e2ebfb7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/110952cc81a6faa0e41adcd6e92f6afc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/148d06a20a9df5d4ead74c695c1d1152.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/e267828c1b2c2f90c29a2b266a70bfd1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/0c1bfcf2882401b3c0b43cc5d5eac114.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam worked on the stuff in the left pontoon. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/39ee60635852b6d19ded598621e33790.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Forgot to mention. I didn't like how these gaskets were installed from DMC so I notched them before I installed them. They fit much better.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/5d5af8eb9737230d6e3be427f5386690.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240404/b7ff058afbfb8d830b3efcc581e1f438.jpg

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[Mark D]

I'm still following along and enjoying all the updates. Keep up the great work!

Dealing with all that specialized hardware can be a pain, but it really does go a long way to make the car feel "right". Sucks that it has to be so expensive though, all those little bags from Napa add up quickly.

I must have missed where you said you were normally getting most of your hardware... McMaster? Grainger? Bolt Depot.com also has a lot of stainless hardware in metric sizes in many different lengths for some odd applications. I converted a ton of the standard screws and bolts over to their stainless counterpart, and bolt depot almost always had the correct length and finish I needed.

For the front trunk area I switched over all the access panels screws over to stainless, and they had some nice pan head / fillister head screws in black oxide that have a larger diameter head that help prevent the screws from tearing through the panels, and will cover up any of the holes that might have become enlarged over the years of use.

[Timeless]

I love the progress and documentation. Have I mentioned belmetric before? belmetric.com

[82DMC12]

I love the progress and documentation. Have I mentioned belmetric before? belmetric.comWhen I did my frame off I bought almost all my hardware from them. I always order double or triple what I needed so now I have a nice Rubbermaid bin organized and full of nice fresh hardware so now I can replace hardware as I take it off for other maintenance and stuff.

In fact I just got another box from them yesterday.

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[SupercoolBill]

I love the progress and documentation. Have I mentioned belmetric before? belmetric.comYeah Andy turned me on to them. I bought all the bolts for my transmission from them.

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[SupercoolBill]

I'm still following along and enjoying all the updates. Keep up the great work!

Dealing with all that specialized hardware can be a pain, but it really does go a long way to make the car feel "right". Sucks that it has to be so expensive though, all those little bags from Napa add up quickly.

I must have missed where you said you were normally getting most of your hardware... McMaster? Grainger? Bolt Depot.com also has a lot of stainless hardware in metric sizes in many different lengths for some odd applications. I converted a ton of the standard screws and bolts over to their stainless counterpart, and bolt depot almost always had the correct length and finish I needed.

For the front trunk area I switched over all the access panels screws over to stainless, and they had some nice pan head / fillister head screws in black oxide that have a larger diameter head that help prevent the screws from tearing through the panels, and will cover up any of the holes that might have become enlarged over the years of use.Thanks Mark. Yeah I also restore old metric motorcycles so I have bought from all of those places over the years. The problem is when you have something you want to assemble immediately but don't have those fasteners you need. That is when I find myself running to a local place.
Normally I just order fasteners from D-go as part of a bulk order. Even if it is more expensive from them I just don't have time to mess around with trying to find a suitable replacement.

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[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car from 3-7 today. I cleaned the left rear quarter before installing. Lots of signs of someone doing,...or trying to do dent repairs. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240406/94fc54b3d8ec02ce1bbc215aa03c5dec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240406/4999061ed874960d24571ccf43ff7a8d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Installed rear plates and tried to mimic where they were positioned before based on my pictures. Mounted the left rear quarter. Sorry not many good pics of what we actually got done. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240407/1550ffb64dcc0ec46c37cced1d2ea20d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240407/dc71c085e55cea3ad96afa8b1cfadff5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240407/d535ad0e3344484e0563088cff8fbae0.jpg

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[GS450-Junkie]

Bill, don't feel bad about it. You were messaging me on my personal Facebook account, where you normally reach me at. Out of respect for my wife's family and the ongoing chaos, I have focused intensely on "being where your feet are" at any given moment and making sure my attention is supporting them along with our children. Crazy how quickly social media can fade into the background as an afterthought. It has been an intense few weeks, with more to come, unfortunately. I had sent you on messenger company contact avenues other than my personal messenger. Our shipping manager has your contact info and will be following up today.

Can you please provide us your shipping manager's contact information so I can get in contact with them about my order. Please and thank you.

[Delorean Industries]

Can you please provide us your shipping manager's contact information so I can get in contact with them about my order. Please and thank you.

Please send to [email protected] subject line order number for reference and they will reach back out to you asap. If at all possible, email from the address the order was placed through as responses double in our system and how up in your store client account.

[SupercoolBill]

Good things come to those who wait. My parts from D-Ind showed up yesterday. I was having buyers remorse about paying $500 for the engine harness until I saw it in person. Wow what an upgrade! I didn't realize how much of an upgrade from the stock one that it would be. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/4de12926b83278b4bac538f53526634d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/9b55eddb86edffba4650f2d9e2f940d1.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car for a few hours after work.
I cut sound deadener for in behind the bulkhead plate and installed it before the bulkhead plate gets installed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/6a89d522883c66ba404b869b9129a8e3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/5b07833b2191ad6bf333544eec58d071.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/bea9bb3e2d97fc89885363fa020532f5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/14f6dc0b2938ebf8e2232e9de8cf60ec.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam worked on the brake booster and m.c. She saw in the parts manual that a o ring goes between the booster and the m.c. but I don't remember there being one in there. She found a new one that seemed to fit and put it in there for now.
This o-ring does really make sense to me. It looks like the m.c. has a special notch out of it for the brake fluid to weep out if the seal fails but I feel like a oring would mess this up. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/a50e3491d07ac29aef756077212c2a6f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/c3bb432ec79a7a34746187dbcb45aea4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/ebe523d5cb54febd130ec25bc32d3cc0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I cleaned up the resistor pack (sorry no after pics) while Tam put a new gasket on the bulkhead plate.
After this we made another list of hardware needed. No matter what it seems like we keep discovering hardware that we didn't buy and we need. I'll be making another trip to the hardware store tomorrow or Friday. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/50704ece804dec985c401b717db78265.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240411/becbf5cd819cd42f60b5327fc0becc6d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I made a list of hardware I needed the other night. Today after my morning spin class/gym workout I swung in to the hardware store. This is a tedious and time consuming part of fully restoring a vehicle. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/6facabc6063d480de2f5fc658d101a45.jpg
I tried to find new nuts for my jump post but the threads didn't seem to match anything in metric or SAE.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/b487866731e58356405237be421d472e.jpg
Pro tip- If you need metric washers, lock washers, etc. and you live in rural USA try finding SAE washers, lock washers, etc. That will fit and work. They are usually much more readily available and a lot cheaper.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/2484ffe7028db7b736bdd64881a0480e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/d1651c817f6273f25edeb6e4aebfbff0.jpg
After an hour of searching and jotting down costs, this is what I brought to the counter.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/da43e4c7bdc265060362dfa74e7bb676.jpg
$27 for a tiny bag of hardware. Ugh....
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/6f15b12f4d9b10319d73acff872c4abc.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

I posted about jump lug on the Delorean technical page on FB. Turns out it is a weird thread.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/22e93fd8cf865d8a0a834dac11ca07ac.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/a1e418e28bf9494729cf1d1baa9d160d.jpg
I found a lug design that I really like online so I ordered it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/eb832c324e45df0864eee67ed16776a0.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240412/3202eb61e9522785f9f2279e8e48777a.jpg


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[Timeless]

I cleaned up the resistor pack (sorry no after pics) while Tam put a new gasket on the bulkhead plate.
Did you consider HEI ignition and dumping the ballast resistor?

[SupercoolBill]

Did you consider HEI ignition and dumping the ballast resistor?Yeah I did. I think I'll start with the OEM set up for now. My worry is if I start changing engine electrical stuff and I cant get the engine to run it will make it harder to determine what the issue is.

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[GS450-Junkie]

FWIW once you move on to carpeting and things of that nature, Toby from Northwest suggested I use this glue by dap. It is their weldwood contact adhesive especially formulated for landau top and trim applications. The can says excellent product for headliners, vinyl trim, Marine interiors, automotive - coverings, door coverings, floor coverings, upholstery, etc. The bad part is I could only find it in a gallon can which should be more than enough. I'm not planning on gluing all of the new carpeting in. Toby recommended the rear wheel arches and the main carpet sections like underneath the door closing areas, etc. I did use it to glue in my rear shelf Dyna pad. This product seems very easy to use and is very forgiving. It remains slightly flexible even after it is cured. It will reactivate if you top coat it.
I'm pleased with it.
I think it's meant for a sprayer, but I had no problems using a cheap disposable brush to brush it on both surfaces. Pro tip: when you are done for the day wrap your paintbrush in tin foil. The glue will not harden and you can reuse the brush the following day. I am on day four with this one. Matter of fact I recommend doing that with any paintbrush or paint roller you use around the house. I think we painted four bedrooms and two hallways all with the same roller over the course of 30 days and some tin foil.

704927049370494

[SupercoolBill]

Good to know. Yeah I do the paint brush and roller trick also but never used tin foil. I use a grocery bag, zip lock bag, or saran wrap.

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[SupercoolBill]

My wife and I went for our typical Saturday morning run then after we worked on the car. I only ran 5.5 miles so I was done pretty early but she decided to run 20 miles so she was gone for another 3 hours. So we didn't actually get started till around 1P. We worked on it till 8P.

We focused on wiring stuff today. As always nothing was easy.
First up replacing the violet and violet w/white wires for the engine bay light circuit. Basically, the violet wire is constant +12V to the light then the violet w/white wire is the - ground coming through the switch. It's kind of confusing how they did it. Reminds me of the horn circuit on some cars. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/f991c2ece4339474e87d4c91c37f65ad.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/95d099c7eb556f263a985806ba0aec75.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I didn't have any violet w/white wire so we made some. Not really required but could help to make troubleshooting wiring in the future less confusing.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/2e34405105c8fb36c522fb2be341013d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/0a8cdf2cf0091a46ae5458d734ccd146.jpg
I bought a pinout kit on Amazon but it didn't work very well at all. Every connector took at least 10 minutes to finagle out of the plug connector. It was a huge pain and we felt like we were always close to seriously screwing something up. We did manage to get the two in the rear facia harness and the ones in the bulkhead connectors. As I am typing this I realize that we still have to do the two going to the light switch.
I bought some new crimpers for doing these special doubled over crimps (sorry don't know the name for it).
Unfortunately these crimpers didn't work right either. The crimp head I needed was too wide to crimp the pins correctly. I don't know...maybe we were using it wrong. I ended using one head to partially crimp the pins. Then I switched back to the correct, but too wide head to finish crimping. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/e43b70cc8c9323869b0db5b06204f6d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/1e9293ef5bbf99adad9ce39636aede57.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I think we found the culprit of what overheated the wiring. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/c0f80c29acf9fef8fc532666c33f0c06.jpg
While we were working on the harness we replaced the marker lights wiring.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/3ec26454bec9cea68014a69b4c6a537b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/fbef7a823a57d3f34db1f9ede326dedc.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I had bought new LED lights on Amazon so I scoped out installing two of them on the rear closing plate.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/4e88cd9fdb0e22fb2fc2713e3e1ddad9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/6e83d96f99b44119d1bf9f1f9f8d1a5e.jpg
Another one of those "While you're in there" we decided to tee off from the violet wires incase we decide to also add some LED lights on the front of the engine bay.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/68980cef3061acd73c470d317c0d7d15.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The main harness all taped back up and ready to go back together.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/da7640289429085df5fd302499ccaf58.jpg
A picture of the plug connectors back in the bulkhead plate.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/8b66360c515ffd24fcf3c4f91e5a0d44.jpg
Installed the plates that hold the back interior panel in place. Some black caulking around the studs to stop and water from leaking in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/0e1ada0fb96c2c2839c684751e693175.jpg
Positive wire connected.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/292be8398cd8347162767aa17d3c5f45.jpg
I had a bunch of copper washers so I used them on the Positive and negative connections. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/8397c779355e38ec96f513ab3c806248.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Bulkhead done, bracket for light switch installed, etc.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/d16eeda791d8f7339d1183035a139ec4.jpg
I scoped out where I may install a light or lights on the front wall of the engine bay. It is kind of hard to make a decision without the other stuff that normally clutters the engine bay being in place. What do you guys think?
Here on the left?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/d59feeaa474791e2c49460de3b5616cd.jpg
And here on the right?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/c3f30edd19d0f0c5bce110e020e44431.jpg

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[82DMC12]

If you're going to put those lights on, I wonder if centered in the sides of the pontoons is actually better? There's not really much to see if you're putting them under the rear window. I feel like the light would be more helpful when it can be dispersed to the sides of the engine.

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[Helirich]

I question the lights there also. I think they may actually shine in your eyes there making it hard to see. Maybe you could install some kind of shade on the top. I think the ideal location would be on the bottom of the engine cover shining down. A lot harder to make look nice though.

The other thing I want to mention is using copper washers for electrical connections. I know copper is one of the best conductors, but I?ve never heard of doing that. I guess I would ask the community is there any reason not to do that?

As always, great work and thanks for taking the time to post.

[SupercoolBill]

If you're going to put those lights on, I wonder if centered in the sides of the pontoons is actually better? There's not really much to see if you're putting them under the rear window. I feel like the light would be more helpful when it can be dispersed to the sides of the engine.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkHmmm good point. I'll look into that option

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[SupercoolBill]

I found some wiring inside the vehicle that had been chewed on by rodents at some point. We are going to have to take care of this.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/7db73e4b780a51885fd074d60a934de6.jpg

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[Delorean Industries]

TBH, from what I have seen in the thread posts and our discussions off-site, you need to pull and inspect all of your harnesses in their entirety. There is a lot going on there, and you are going to run the risk of damaging new components, new harnesses, etc. You are far enough apart that there isn't a better time. This isn't something you will want to go back in for after the fact.

[SupercoolBill]

TBH, from what I have seen in the thread posts and our discussions off-site, you need to pull and inspect all of your harnesses in their entirety. There is a lot going on there, and you are going to run the risk of damaging new components, new harnesses, etc. You are far enough apart that there isn't a better time. This isn't something you will want to go back in for after the fact.Yeah continuing to check wiring. Would it make sense to install a plug connector here?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/494bd5771c1f5f0ff61cdf0bf9c7c9d1.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We got up thir morning, walked 4 miles, went to church, ate lunch, and then worked on the car for 5 hours.
We switched to working on the front of the car for a while. The first thing we did was remove the nasty, dirty steering shaft for cleaning and inspection. Tam begrudgingly cleaned the steering shaft while I worked on other stuff. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/83832ae4b411b281a525b7071b11b29e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/18ba4466883145316bbf72a6755cbc72.jpg

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[82DMC12]

Yeah continuing to check wiring. Would it make sense to install a plug connector here?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240414/494bd5771c1f5f0ff61cdf0bf9c7c9d1.jpg

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I wouldn't bother. Once you break all those M5 screws off and install new rivnuts, you'll have no trouble going back in there in the future if for some reason you have to clean or check the connections.

[SupercoolBill]

As I got looking around under the car I realized how much work we had to do under here. There are a bunch of spinning rivnuts many of which have stainless steel bolts in them. These will be fun to grind out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/abd80722c2bae904500b825312cacf38.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/df3557b534f1817e0a8a264f7303dcf7.jpg

I decided to try to get the fittings off from the AC evaporator. Earlier in the project I have chopped the AC lines because I couldn't get the fittings to loosen and wanted to proceed with getting the body off the frame. Even with the extra room these fittings didn't want to budge.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/9cd216291988715ac82d5fdfc7a48ad6.jpg
I tried every trick in the book on the suction fitting and finally got it apart but it was all for nothing. We need a new evaporator. The liquid line has corrosion in the seal area which I don't like. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/97acfa6dd9db59917af9ebf447ba78e4.jpg
But the bigger problem is when I chopped off the suction accumulator I cut too close to the evaporator and ruined the sealing section.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/f112514fbd795868fbec021bec975661.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

I showed Tam how to remove rivnuts so she reluctantly went to work in the fronk. She was inventing some creative swear words lol.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/79fb6522af47d8d38304c3e13c606529.jpg
I decided I was going to start cleaning the undercarriage.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/54c8b343ff3e49e0b07dafd6fb1b2ea6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/1798d54c354920bbc5852e21d0fb0453.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I prepped for attaching the body plates.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/626150a6fe3b1c97597c80e35ca27327.jpg
All of these rivnuts are spinning...bolts seized in them. Fun....so these will all need to be ground off.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240415/3012999bc41d8e7f2b21747b4d646f8c.jpg

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