1982 Frame Off Restoration

[SupercoolBill]

I wouldn't bother. Once you break all those M5 screws off and install new rivnuts, you'll have no trouble going back in there in the future if for some reason you have to clean or check the connections.Okay thanks

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[SupercoolBill]

We needed to install the body plates on the car. I posted on FB discussion looking for what products would work. It seems that most of the best options require a special double caulk gun. I messaged a buddy of mine that works at a body shop 3 miles from my shop. He said that I could borrow his application tool and could have a partial tube of bonding agent. When I got there though he grabbed a new tube and told me I could have it. SCORE!
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[SupercoolBill]

I roughed up the plates with some gritty sandpaper, prepped the areas on the tub with a sanding disk, wiped everything down with acetone, and squirted the goo on the plates.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240417/458ff42a4307e9cec62f92d5c65100f1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240417/0bb2272f91a5ef445f0900e43598ef38.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240417/a7acaaf4eb47ac61ee4a24ac93e32f8c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I dropped bolts down through the holes in the luggage compartment. I rolled under the car on my little roller seat and stuck the first plate on the car. Then I had dilemma. I couldn't hold the bolt and spin the nut on at the same time and I was all alone in the shop. I couldn't come out from under the car or the plate might fall off onto the floor. Think THINK!!! HOW AM I GOING TO DO THIS!! Then I remembered that I had a business card in my front shirt pocket. I used the card to push the bolt to one side so that I could spin the nut on. Then I used my impact, which luckily was on my roller seat, to snap the bolt quickly so the bolt and nut snugged down.
Worked like a charm. I returned the tool to my buddy before he was done work for the day. It was nice out so it was a good excuse to ride my most recent motorcycle purchase..an Aprilla Futura 1000. When I saw it for sale and it was a "Futura" I couldn't resist.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240417/5743035ce370f20f3a232d2e6703ff2e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240417/37d18329659235b750b55bca42b307ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240417/737eb29886b4d4090bd5b526c28bcdfd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240417/4bd5797bd5ef83b5de0dda0ee9b3295e.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Confession time. The wife and I have been working on this car for 2-1/2 years now and we are getting weary.
In running they have a term called "Bonk" or "Bonking". It is when a runner is running a race, usually long distance like a marathon (26.2 miles) or further, and they hit a wall so to speak. Usually they seem to be doing pretty good at 90% or more completion of the race then their body or mind or both just say "I'm done!" They collapse or are forced to sit down or at best walk.
I feel like that is where we are at with this project. Too many hours, too many disappointments, too much money, too many arguments in the shop, too many miss opportunities to spend time with friends and family because we were working on the car, etc.
All this for a car that we have never driven, ridden in, or even seen run. The days are getting warm and sunny again...it is hard to spend all of our spare time in the garage. Especially when we own a convertible and five motorcycles.

In the good book, it says, "Hope deferred makes the heart sick." man ain't that the truth. Everytime we think we are close to finishing it seems like someone moved the finish line.

We are not giving up though. We feel like the end is actual in site. Maybe not completion of the project but at least getting the damn body on the frame and trying to get the engine to run.
If we could go back in time (pun intended) we would have spent more money for a nicer Delorean or just not bought one at all. But here we are, 20 miles into a marathon with only 6.2 agonizing miles left to go. So we will push on to the finish line so we can get that finishers medallion and humble brag (also known as flexing) to our friends.

There I feel better now [emoji18] [emoji38]

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Just take a break from working on it. Go party, to the movies or just watch some TV together. Do some work on house.

[ssdelorean]

<<snip>>
In the good book, it says, "Hope deferred makes the heart sick." man ain't that the truth. Everytime we think we are close to finishing it seems like someone moved the finish line.

<<snip>>

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In the same good book, "Do you not know that those who run in a race all run, but one receives the prize? Run in such a way that you may obtain it."

Don't be discouraged. Balance work, fun, life. Baby steps. Persevere.

[Helirich]

Just take a break from working on it. Go party, to the movies or just watch some TV together. Do some work on house.

Yes!

You don?t have to finish by any deadline. I think maybe you are thinking about the destination when you should be enjoying the journey. It took me 10 years to build this.

70506

I never had a deadline. Although I?m having a lot of fun driving it now, I miss the project.

[Stainless]

I agree with what others have said. It may be time to take some intentional time away to try and "miss" the project. I started a project with mine last summer that started as a simple removal and restoration of the rear interior panel that covers the rear speakers. But it morphed into a huge "while I'm in there" project that resulted in me taking out most of the interior, restoring the electrical/fuse box area, wiring cleanup from the previous owner, removal of headliner, including bolting down the roof box, door seal replacement including the top seal secured by rivets, replacement of the broken radio deck, ripping out of the heater and AC unit, replacement of the A/C lines, new radiator, condenser, new radiator fans, and the 100 other odd and end items along the way, including hours of sandblasting, painting, and of course, parts shopping.

In summary, I get the feeling of burnout. Sometimes it feels like one step forward and one immediately back, making you feel like you're not progressing.

I'm amazed at the level of detail you and your wife have given this project. You're inspiring others and have, on multiple occasions, motivated me to get out to my own garage to work on my car.

It does suck to not have the car be in driving and running condition. It has been too many months since I sat in my car and took it for a spin. You can always skip some things and address them later, if ever, for sake of speeding up the process. But if you want everything to be perfect and not have to revisit much later, try to strike a better balance between life and the car. The car will always be there tomorrow if you don't work on it today. We're rooting for you, but there's no rush.

[SupercoolBill]

Thanks for the kind words and advice everyone. I greatly appreciate it. We took tonight off, did a 30 minute workout at home, ate dinner, then watch a movie together..Shrek believe it or not haha! It's such a classic.
Tomorrow night I have a prior weekly commitment (visiting people in jail) but I think we are going to work on it for a while Saturday.


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[SupercoolBill]

Dispite my post, yesterday we did manage to work on the car some. During the work day i was near Lowes so I bought two new 4x4X10' timbers. I spent a lot of time and energy sorting through what they had there, trying to findd two that didn't have several big knots all in the same spot. I discovered that this is actually nearly impossible. When I got back to the shop it was almost the end of the work day so I jumped right into swapping out the timbers.
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I use a different technique then most people to jack up the body. I use floor jacks, one on each side of the car with a timber to spread the weight on the rockers. I go up on one side, put blocks in, set that side down, switch over to the other side, and so on. But first I lifted the back of the car, swapped out the timber, then lifted the front of the car and swapped out the timber up there.
I realized that I had my blocks set really wide...like 10' apart for some reason. I realized this wasn't really necessary and was putting more stress on the timbers so I moved the blocks in to like 6-7' apart.

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Next I went back to my side to side technique to raise the car higher. I did this to make it easier to work under the car and also because we had to remove the wheels from the frame to get it to come out from under the car. We want to roll it in there this time.
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I put pipe stands under the timbers for added insurance.



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[SupercoolBill]

Tam was out for a run (as usual) while I was working on the blocking under the car. She showed up after I was finished, which was probably for the best.
We switched to working on the frame and just puttered on that for a few hours trying to figure out hoses and stuff are supposed to be run.

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The bolt hole in the plate that holds the refrigerant lines to the compressor was too small for an M10 bolt so I had to drill it out. It pained me to hog out my nice plated part but it had to be done.
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[SupercoolBill]

I agree with what others have said. It may be time to take some intentional time away to try and "miss" the project. I started a project with mine last summer that started as a simple removal and restoration of the rear interior panel that covers the rear speakers. But it morphed into a huge "while I'm in there" project that resulted in me taking out most of the interior, restoring the electrical/fuse box area, wiring cleanup from the previous owner, removal of headliner, including bolting down the roof box, door seal replacement including the top seal secured by rivets, replacement of the broken radio deck, ripping out of the heater and AC unit, replacement of the A/C lines, new radiator, condenser, new radiator fans, and the 100 other odd and end items along the way, including hours of sandblasting, painting, and of course, parts shopping.

In summary, I get the feeling of burnout. Sometimes it feels like one step forward and one immediately back, making you feel like you're not progressing.

I'm amazed at the level of detail you and your wife have given this project. You're inspiring others and have, on multiple occasions, motivated me to get out to my own garage to work on my car.

It does suck to not have the car be in driving and running condition. It has been too many months since I sat in my car and took it for a spin. You can always skip some things and address them later, if ever, for sake of speeding up the process. But if you want everything to be perfect and not have to revisit much later, try to strike a better balance between life and the car. The car will always be there tomorrow if you don't work on it today. We're rooting for you, but there's no rush.Geesh yeah that little job blew up into quite a project!

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[SupercoolBill]

Yes!

You don?t have to finish by any deadline. I think maybe you are thinking about the destination when you should be enjoying the journey. It took me 10 years to build this.

70506

I never had a deadline. Although I?m having a lot of fun driving it now, I miss the project.Wow that is awesome! Ironically I have been looking at old military vehicles in my "spare time" I have wanted a unimog, pinzgusser, or something for years. PM me.the info on that rig if you don't mind.

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[SupercoolBill]

In the same good book, "Do you not know that those who run in a race all run, but one receives the prize? Run in such a way that you may obtain it."

Don't be discouraged. Balance work, fun, life. Baby steps. Persevere.I know that one well also,...since we both run races.

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[SupercoolBill]

Today I did a video of the frame. Anyone see anything that I need to change before the body goes on?
https://youtu.be/mj-jpHXHhZs?si=wlHKSdf9wHhrzZTS

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[Helirich]

I can?t help you much because I?ve never done it, but looking, I?ll mention a couple things that may or may not be applicable.

Those stainless lines with couplers. I had those kind of lines on my project truck. I found that I had to have them really, really tight to stop them from leaking. Tighter than I felt comfortable with. If those fittings will be hard to get at, I would really make sure they are tight. I flared my own lines and maybe (probably) I was at fault. But worth mentioning.

I see a couple hose clamps. Make sure that they are pointed in a way that you can get at them with a screwdriver after the body is on.

That?s about all I can come up with. Hopefully, Andy can comment. When this is done, you are going to be the man everybody goes to.


Edit, something else I will mention that probubly you are not interested in. I understand that most people that pull the engine, make the rear cross frame bolt on. It makes sense to me and I wouldn’t hesitate to do it if I was that far into it. It would be easy to do now for you. If for some reason in the future, you had to pull that engine, you would be thanking yourself now.

[82DMC12]

Nice video!

First of all, regarding the one piece clutch line, the one I got had 90 degree ends on both sides. This was OK however there was very little clearance for it when routing it around the brake booster bracket up front. I see the hose you got has a straight end on one side and 90 on the other. There are no clearance issues with a 90 at the slave so I wonder if the straight end is intended to go on the master?

No problem routing the hose along the driver side just like you have it.

You might have to cut the zip ties for the AC hoses off when you put the body back down if the hoses are getting jammed lowering the body. With the new style thinner diameter hoses you will probably be fine though. Originally when I dropped my body back down I had barrier hoses and they were getting wedged and pinched.

Are you going to put your intake manifold and fuel injection onto the engine before putting the body back down? One thing I did was I hooked up the fuel lines to the fuel distributor and then hooked up 12 volts to the fuel pump so I could circulate fuel for about half an hour and be 100% sure none of those metal lines between the body and frame are leaking fuel. You will definitely not want to find a fuel leak there after the body is set down.

Looking great though! That's really the only stuff I have to add.

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[SupercoolBill]

I can?t help you much because I?ve never done it, but looking, I?ll mention a couple things that may or may not be applicable.

Those stainless lines with couplers. I had those kind of lines on my project truck. I found that I had to have them really, really tight to stop them from leaking. Tighter than I felt comfortable with. If those fittings will be hard to get at, I would really make sure they are tight. I flared my own lines and maybe (probably) I was at fault. But worth mentioning.

I see a couple hose clamps. Make sure that they are pointed in a way that you can get at them with a screwdriver after the body is on.

That?s about all I can come up with. Hopefully, Andy can comment. When this is done, you are going to be the man everybody goes to.


Edit, something else I will mention that probubly you are not interested in. I understand that most people that pull the engine, make the rear cross frame bolt on. It makes sense to me and I wouldn?t hesitate to do it if I was that far into it. It would be easy to do now for you. If for some reason in the future, you had to pull that engine, you would be thanking yourself now.Thanks for the advice.
I did make sure I tightened those down quite a bit. I do worry about being able to get to those if they leak and I really wish they were one continuous line without the couplers.
Some of the hose clamps are hard to know which way they should be pointed. I'm going to try to remember to check them as I am lowering the body onto the frame.

I have considered cutting the rear frame cross member probably 30 times. I know a lot of people cut it and make it removable but I feel like it is the most popular for people that are doing engine swaps not people running the stock engine but I could be wrong. I think that the engine or engine and transaxle can be removed and installed without having a removable cross member. I'm sure it is more difficult but doable. So do I cut my almost perfect frame to make it easier to remove the engine or remove the timing chain cover? I don't know.....
The other thing is I have never found really good close up pics on how to make the rear part of the frame removable.

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[SupercoolBill]

Nice video!

First of all, regarding the one piece clutch line, the one I got had 90 degree ends on both sides. This was OK however there was very little clearance for it when routing it around the brake booster bracket up front. I see the hose you got has a straight end on one side and 90 on the other. There are no clearance issues with a 90 at the slave so I wonder if the straight end is intended to go on the master?

No problem routing the hose along the driver side just like you have it.

You might have to cut the zip ties for the AC hoses off when you put the body back down if the hoses are getting jammed lowering the body. With the new style thinner diameter hoses you will probably be fine though. Originally when I dropped my body back down I had barrier hoses and they were getting wedged and pinched.

Are you going to put your intake manifold and fuel injection onto the engine before putting the body back down? One thing I did was I hooked up the fuel lines to the fuel distributor and then hooked up 12 volts to the fuel pump so I could circulate fuel for about half an hour and be 100% sure none of those metal lines between the body and frame are leaking fuel. You will definitely not want to find a fuel leak there after the body is set down.

Looking great though! That's really the only stuff I have to add.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkI think it would be better if mine had 90s on both ends. Not sure why Josh changed the design. Maybe so it could be fished through with the body on the car?
So are you saying that I should have the 90 on the transmission end then?
I don't want to try to fish this back through later.

I am wondering if I should wrap my suction line with foam insulation tape. What do you think? Every little bit helps but not sure if it would make any significant difference in performance or efficiency of the AC and also it would make the line thicker.

I would love to install the intake, fuel distributor, etc and test the fuel system now rather than later but Josh is telling me to wait until I have the new harness ran and not to run the harness until the body is back on the frame.

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[SupercoolBill]

I am just finding out about adding more grounds, moving ground locations, adding new positive wires etc.
What are people's thoughts on this? Is it really necessary? I'm seeing videos of guys running #0 ground wires all over the car. Seems a bit extreme to me. Every vehicle I have every seen just uses the frame and or engine for the ground.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I am just finding out about adding more grounds, moving ground locations, adding new positive wires etc.
What are people's thoughts on this? Is it really necessary? I'm seeing videos of guys running #0 ground wires all over the car. Seems a bit extreme to me. Every vehicle I have every seen just uses the frame and or engine for the ground.

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Wiring is weak in most circuits in the DeLorean. Battery wires are large enough but those "flag" terminals are weak points. Battery, starter and alternator new wires can be made with more flexible wire and larger gauge. I use heavy duty crimp terminals and even solder them after crimping. Fans and blower motor use frame ground. Headlights run ground wires back to relay compartment (I guess they wanted to have a warning light for a burned out headlight but it never got implemented). I did change the front lights to use frame ground. That leaves two large ground wires you can repurpose for power up front if you want. I made a battery 12 volt terminal block so those high current wires don't need to use the alternator and starter to connect to each other. I also added a second engine ground wire on the drivers side just to backup the OEM ground strap on the passenger side.

[DMC-Ron]

Today I did a video of the frame. Anyone see anything that I need to change before the body goes on?
https://youtu.be/mj-jpHXHhZs?si=wlHKSdf9wHhrzZTS

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I couldn't quite tell in the video if you done this already, but last summer I had to bleed my clutch slave and it was difficult to access the bleeder. If I had the access you now have, I would add a bleeder extension and mount the bleeder where it is more accessible.

Ron

[SupercoolBill]

I couldn't quite tell in the video if you done this already, but last summer I had to bleed my clutch slave and it was difficult to access the bleeder. If I had the access you now have, I would add a bleeder extension and mount the bleeder where it is more accessible.

RonThis is something else I have been going back and forth with in my mind.
It's something that is only going to get used once or twice (hopefully) but it costs a lot for what it is and how often it will get used ($85.?)
The entire clutch line is roughly the same price as this little short line.
There is always that "one more thing" and if a line isn't drawn somewhere we could easily spend $80-$90k or more on this restoration by the time we are done. But then on the other hand it's only another $85....decisions decisions.

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[Helirich]

This is something else I have been going back and forth with in my mind.
It's something that is only going to get used once or twice (hopefully) but it costs a lot for what it is and how often it will get used ($85.?)
The entire clutch line is roughly the same price as this little short line.
There is always that "one more thing" and if a line isn't drawn somewhere we could easily spend $80-$90k or more on this restoration by the time we are done. But then on the other hand it's only another $85....decisions decisions.

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On one hand it?s a PITA to bleed the clutch. On the other hand, In all the years I owned the car, I?ve bled it twice. The fist time I was just running new fluid through the system, so it didn?t really require it. The second time was a new slave. It?s sucks, but it is certainly doable. I?ve not seen the extensions. Is there any possibility of it getting damaged and leak?

[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for a couple hours yesterday. Mostly we just switched around the refrigerant lines at the compressor so the are pointing in the correct direction. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240421/e1667a0bf92aed883c8bd382b35d0c80.jpg
We redid the connections at the condenser. I'm hoping these are the correct size o-rings.
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We also spent some time talking about the car. What fruit is it producing in our lives? Has this car and project improved the quality of our lives or the lives of those around is? Or is it weighing us down, causing stress and frustration. Is the car an idol working to keep time and money away from our friends, family, those in need, our business, etc. How much money is too much money to spend (waste) on something like this?
If we get the car all done and someone t-bones us at an intersection or a tree falls on the car, how will we deal with something like that? Will we say "Que Sera, Sera," or would we be absolutely devastated?
Several years ago, I made a decision not to let anything "own" me. I don't do any drugs, I don't smoke, I don't drink alcohol unless it is something I can go without at any time, I don't drink coffee or if I do non-caffinated, etc. All things I had a problem with at some point in my life.
If something becomes a problem, I try to cut it out of my life.
So I'm not looking to have this car own me. It seems like my wife generally feels that same.
Something to think about over the next week.

[Helirich]

One thing I do think about when I read your thread is the car will be such a perfect car that you will be afraid to drive it. And, in fact, you will probably be lowering its value to drive it very much. I agree with you to not let something own you. I don’t own any garage queens. I also don’t want to be polishing something all the time. I have driven mine on several 1400-2000 mile trips. I can’t imagine doing that in a car as nice as yours.

You might want to think about finishing the car and selling it at Barret Jackson and then buying a nice driver for half the price. You know you can fix anything that comes up and you won’t be afraid to drive it in the rain. I think your car will fetch a premium price. I’m not saying you will make money on your time invested, but I think you will get more than your money back. The time invested should be enjoyable time spent with your wife.

[SupercoolBill]

One thing I do think about when I read your thread is the car will be such a perfect car that you will be afraid to drive it. And, in fact, you will probably be lowering its value to drive it very much. I agree with you to not let something own you. I don’t own any garage queens. I also don’t want to be polishing something all the time. I have driven mine on several 1400-2000 mile trips. I can’t imagine doing that in a car as nice as yours.

You might want to think about finishing the car and selling it at Barret Jackson and then buying a nice driver for half the price. You know you can fix anything that comes up and you won’t be afraid to drive it in the rain. I think your car will fetch a premium price. I’m not saying you will make money on your time invested, but I think you will get more than your money back. The time invested should be enjoyable time spent with your wife.Interesting thought. I restored a 1970 BMW motorcycle during Covid. It was similar to this project in a lot of ways. I bought it because it was cheap. Originally, I was just going to fix bare minimum stuff, but I ended up doing a complete restoration on it. At first, I was worried about something happening and hardly rode it. Eventually, I rode it on a regular basis but was still worried about it and frankly was really prideful about how perfect it was (I even have trophies from motorcycle shows I entered). Then, one night, I left a buddy's house and forgot to put up my kick stand. I came to a left hand bend in the road and couldn't turn left because my kickstand was hitting the pavement. I quickly ended up running out of road, went into the ditch, and did a "Quick off" right over the bars. It didn't mess up the bike too much, but it certainly wasn't perfect anymore, and I was glad. Now I don't worry about it too much.
Here's a before and after of the Beemahhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240422/bdf7d397800b5718b44b78a6357a9f7f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240422/f30b1f9281d5f7943e0aa5b747748878.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240422/e1f7b10f4418646bae183b7db3617b33.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240422/39b5dc3cb56b7e4dffc7619225131946.jpg

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[Helirich]

Those BMWs are cool with the jugs out the side. I knew a guy in PA that lost his leg over a kickstand. I had a Honda with a rubber extension on the stand. When you lean with it down, the rubber would hit first and force it to go up. I tested it once and it worked. Of course it scared the bee Jesus out of me. Might be worth seeing if that could be retrofit on yours.

[SupercoolBill]

Well..not to be a negative Nancy but we decided to get the Miata out as a little morale booster and now that has issues. We stored it in a shipping container on our property this year and because the container isn't insulated, isn't well ventilated, and we had such a mild winter with lots of rain, the car suffered from serious condensation issues. It looks twice as rusty and corroded as it did last year. I put the battery in it and tried to start it. It turned over kind of hard and tried to start then something seemed to happen, it puffed out black smoke, and now it won't even try to start. It seems to turn over too easy now also. Fun...

Enough about Miatas and motorcycles for now. This is a Delorean forum. [emoji846]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240422/430dd58edabfcb393f5bbb64c1de8e6b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the Delorean for 5 hours today. Oh some good news, the Miata is running! We let it sit outdoors for a couple days and after wiggling the plug wires around it fired up. Drove it several times and seems to be perfectly fine now. [emoji2958]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/232b0583a8c9838b00ae5f13bfebf2cd.jpg
More fun under the front of the car the other day and also today. All the "While you're in there" stuff. Yes Tam should have a face shield on. Oops.[emoji55]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/e3a2ff5961205bd9e8213bf530a3ab28.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/92ecbe9ed56c827e216fd4a8b91e81cd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/8df02b39b370558a2349e7bd22745349.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

It is important to have a water spray bottle in arms reach when grinding off fasteners in the body. Otherwise you can end up melting the area around the rivnut.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/181d19ab693d424293f43c700b98813e.jpg
This one pulled out instead of being punched in because I over heated it. Luckily the new rivnuts are a larger O.D. than the originals.
After seeing the grip end of one of these I can see why the originals spin so often.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/c0d8be8adc5f3c348caf3012f4075355.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I installed my new jump start post. I got lucky and found some nice CAD plated Allen head bolts in my shop stock.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/54706e7d2d0a91148231273f44b7e997.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/03d317c1a37e1332e1301e40e93c4f3d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/b7a94ae9255aafe4338ea3817b9202c2.jpg
I used the first mount point to line up to drill the second hole.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/04f766717ebd46113ec57af33ccf8a54.jpg
Finished product with a new D-Ind positive cable (came with new engine bay harness kit).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/873e0b46b518d474a0d997b513095771.jpg


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[82DMC12]

I installed my new jump start post. I got lucky and found some nice CAD plated Allen head bolts in my shop stock.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/54706e7d2d0a91148231273f44b7e997.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/03d317c1a37e1332e1301e40e93c4f3d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/b7a94ae9255aafe4338ea3817b9202c2.jpg
I used the first mount point to line up to drill the second hole.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/04f766717ebd46113ec57af33ccf8a54.jpg
Finished product with a new D-Ind positive cable (came with new engine bay harness kit).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240427/873e0b46b518d474a0d997b513095771.jpg


Sent from my SM-F946U1 using TapatalkLooks nice, but you're going to put a plastic or rubber cover over the studs, right?

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[SupercoolBill]

I installed the new positive cable that runs from the alternator to the starter. This cable also came with my new engine harness from D-Ind. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/82bde504914bf1d64b6bbfe3ee7551c5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/78092864d6335aaf8ddc48c25771f537.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Looks nice, but you're going to put a plastic or rubber cover over the studs, right?

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkYeah I will come up with something. Maybe the oem boot.

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam worked on cleaning parts and wire wheeling the steering shaft. I marked the depth of the steering shaft splines insertion before I gave it to her. Not sure if this is an important reference or not but better safe than sorry.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/18baf92d2b98e7589ee3f1ea8178cce7.jpg
I made sure she wore a shield for this job.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/4ccb321bd79bef5cca5cb98a129c182d.jpg
She did a great job. I couldn't believe how well everything cleaned up.[emoji44]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/46ba1d072e4de2354e028c8208e6d648.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/495b7f8d618932f496cf1cbf9136fbad.jpg

Oh by the way I checked the u-joints. They actually feel great. Not loose but not bound up either.

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[SupercoolBill]

I decided that I am not reinstalling the cheesy OEM hanging straps for the wiring harness that feeds the rear facia. I installed rivnuts in the stock holes.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/f2c5b8ca22a39357e9a7b124c7fefd4a.jpg
I once again was lucky and found some nice black Allen head screws in my stock.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/ba59a422c8ee291ad58d31e810f7cf52.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/38821e5eeea053f142df31133c6f3592.jpg
I used 3/4" clips. I think I am going to put the wire into some 3/4" flex loom for this section of the run.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/bb17757be70fff75fa889812c5f886a1.jpg
I think they look pretty sweet.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/76087351f5022ee18b5ef61f92f7e94b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/d3971918ec7db5028a8613eff5360090.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next up....trying to remove these rivnuts. I used a automatic punch to center punch the bolt heads. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/2eb59c34275dd979e8232897271fcae9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/eae985bee726963c5497ff8f54d33be2.jpg
If you don't have one of these tools you need to go buy one right now. It is one of those "Need to have tools".
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/885339cb19e3c6c44dd5d7ee8f29cd08.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Well, drilling the heads off didn't work as well as I had hoped. I had to drill at an angle so the holes didn't stay centered.
There's no room to get in there with anything else so I think I'll have to remove the front facia to get in there.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/f5e183f479adfb5b5ef7859ad784e728.jpg

I was thinking of using plastic push pins instead of rivnuts and bolts on the radiator intake shroud. I found a size of push pin that seemed to fit well.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/2189d5678a8a356aa380035924fdc516.jpg
It seemed like it could work. The one thing I did not like is the fact that the plastic shroud is slotted. With the original design of bolts and fender washers you can really pinch the plastic down tight. When removing the push pins one of them didn't pop apart right. I had a heck of a time with it. So I will NOT be using plastic push pins on this part of the car. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/f896ace22772db0ddc50da8a71ecaeaa.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I jumped back on to trying to remove the front facia.
I popped the grill off. I really had to yard on it to get it off.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/810bddecabd2352956295011b428d4f0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/925f43e198a0b6ce33b6b201c37e1c4c.jpg
Even with instructions from others, YouTube videos, etc. I was still struggling with figuring out how to get the facia off. The headlight bucket mounts block some of the nuts that hold the facia on but I don't see how I am supposed to remove the bolts on the headlight bucket mounts. Hmmm...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/7593d4434cf4cbd96b4adc906e29653e.jpg
I noticed some weird things like shims stacked up, wires crushed under one of the headlight mounts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240428/486333d37457b9a54d5e98f4c1f8a100.jpg

The last thing we did was remove the hood to facilitate removing the facia. This is stressful...or at least it was for us. I gave a warning of how much a new hood costs if we messed up this one. I think that didn't help my wife's stress level. Haha. We got it off an in a safe place with no incident.

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[Helirich]

The head light buckets look pretty rusty, but I?m sure they will clean up. Are you going to have them plated?

So is the badge on the hood glued on or is there holes there? Can?t say I like it. You won?t like it much when you are cleaning the car. Just something to catch dirt and your sponge/rag. If there?s no holes, I would get rid of it. I?m glad mine didn?t come with it.

[82DMC12]

The head light buckets look pretty rusty, but I?m sure they will clean up. Are you going to have them plated?

So is the badge on the hood glued on or is there holes there? Can?t say I like it. You won?t like it much when you are cleaning the car. Just something to catch dirt and your sponge/rag. If there?s no holes, I would get rid of it. I?m glad mine didn?t come with it.Hood logo is attached with double sided tape. Gentle heat gun and plastic scraper, easy to remove. Hard to get back on in the correct spot without a template, so plan for that before removal.

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam had a 10 miler race with her friend this morning. She came in 7th in her age group. Pretty impressive.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/8361fb79e2fd518f0d1d8d3885efd3cd.jpg
After lunch we worked on the car (2P-7:30P).
I removed the screws across the top of the facia.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/f7c7331ad2d84e31768a67b1fae5bbb3.jpg
We removed the head light buckets....well tried to.
I discovered that the left side nut on the left side headlight bucket was actually missing and the left side stud on the right side bucket was snapped off with the broken piece and nut laying in the front of the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/450461a4bed842c351d7312e15a0c33b.jpg

We had a really hard time unplugging the blinker wires. I should have just chopped them. The connections are junk.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/7de417c6a532a7861685a8e6e26ae420.jpg
We removed the front facia and set it aside.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/73b060f05eae4fa363e16434ce015c9c.jpg

Some factory shims
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/fbb58553ad3f34fcd4377fa3166ee74d.jpg
Here's that broken stud with the nut still on it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/a99974b6282adbfd3a79ebe403e43582.jpg
Tam removed the hood hinges. Luckily these bolts all came out without issues.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/1521a76b3e72c508a1aa7d2f38fde866.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

With the facia off I tackled the windshield washer reservoir cover. What a pain!! I couldn't fit much of anything in there even with the facia removed. The only tool that would fit was a die grinder.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/1d2a06d101174f614654df6468dab14f.jpg
It is nearly impossible to grind off the bolts without ruining the plastic.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/25de68078bf30f2695772ea47692a72e.jpg
I ended up abandoning the die grinder method and going back to trying to drill the bolts out.
Finally! Success...kind of. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/84e491b0f2720614f96d06af0a4dbcd9.jpg
I was hoping this part was avaliable and cheap. Unfortunately it is neither. I CAN get one but it is over $100. I'll probably try to fix this one up with some plastic epoxy so I cleaned it up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/4b20f46962266d483a35811755d28ae6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I pulled the hose of the washer tank and drain the fluid into a bucket. I think the thing must have been almost full.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/cfd0855d97b438b05e61aba395578e1c.jpg
Kind if embarrassing to admit but I actually had no idea that there were multiple factory plug connectors up in the void beside the washer tank.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/94f41e982b64aa2c245edad1d386dedf.jpg
Oh boy...more rodent damage.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/0a68a2eb9f736ce3d28a1fe8e8d27d9b.jpg
Let's see how the electrical connections are. First one looks great!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/94a61dd5ef4a042781188185a5af6924.jpg
But then I found this one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/b77fa6a8e6be6110e7a62dc0c6a409f5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/48d7e66e7013283c7cd3e60021761c2b.jpg
I'm not sure if these can be cleaned up enough to use or if I'll need new pins...or all new harnesses.

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[SupercoolBill]

This rivnut pulled out. It was nice to have one out to examine. I can see why they fail so often. No ribs to bite into the surface and this one didn't get swedged nearly enough.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/870792dcdb8221113acbe218002256b8.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I finished taking care of some more rivnuts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/1285f064715c41a6a5a7ea284da0792d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/5cd79a7cee81280949a9d6615e52358e.jpg
I taped some wires onto the washer tube and the main harness. I pulled the tube through into the cab first. The tubing is really stiff and old so....while I'm in there I am going to replace it. Next I tried to pull the wiring through so I can later inspect and repair it or replace it. I couldn't pull it all the way through. I'm getting worried that I am going to get it jammed in an area I can't get to. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/6e32a5aaf464c21f5b61c04c03a7dee8.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I spent the rest of my night installing rivnuts while Tam was blasting the hood hinges. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/e87e8c2f729100c406f6e0b5dce7aa90.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/fab961ba9a2d24de961d9edc997c5220.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/fe5798a2f3e71481e3652e8f661102ea.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Oh one more thing. I found a insulator cover for my jump post. I'm not sure if I'll stick with this one but I had it on hand so I tried it on there.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/09d63570fabd3cec847c69f83e97b4bc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240429/de0b5d2c593d292c2e231f874e51010a.jpg

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[AugustneverEnds]

Rodents are plenty bad enough but is that a Scotch Lok I see? If so that means a two-legged animal was in there before and, in my experience, those DPOs do even worse things to wiring.

[SupercoolBill]

Took a break from working for an hour today.
I was thinking it would be good if the washer fluid cover had a metal ring holding it on. Especially since some of the screw holes got messed up in the removal process.
I drew out the shape on some card stock.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240501/71340386927cb0bfe4f159308288e223.jpg
I then measured in approximately 1/2" and drew the inside edge.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240501/4f70259318bcefa62b54258bc4c58f9f.jpg
I looked around my shop and found exactly what I was looking for, a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum flat stock.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240501/c68671524f795129a2bbd891e74bf5c1.jpg
I cut out the card stock and used it to trace out onto the aluminum.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240501/65af3a38c10ac087687dd6242b8031a0.jpg
I also drilled more holes in the bottom of the cover. I'm not sure if it matters but I made sure to drill the holes away from where the washer tank sits.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240501/d004d921e346ff2c968142402a093b78.jpg

It's funny what things are really valuable in stock form. Turns out these covers and the washer tank are NLA. If you manage to find one they are really expensive so I need to try to make this one work.

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[SupercoolBill]

As I mentioned before we have a hardware store right near our shop. I stopped in and bought some Flex Seal and plastic repair. The Flex Seal is for the front impact beam (bumper) and the plastic repair is for the front facia and the washer tank cover.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/2abbf84c93c6d0c6921a36fa91348214.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/898e0f0b8939749ad9a6c53634c6dcda.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 5P to 8:30P.
Tam stripped the bumper then painted it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/073d323d3cd2d1dc17ff2404a1620e11.jpg
She also blasted the second fronk hinge. She also spent a lot of time trying to remove the nuts from the facia without breaking them. Two studs have broke so far.

Sorry only one picture of Tam's work.

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[SupercoolBill]

My plan for tonight was to trace out as much of the main harness as I could then make decision whether it can be saved or replaced. First I filled in a void under where the MC goes. I am assuming that leaking brake fluid ate away the original RTV that was there. I used Great Stuff. My hope is it is impervious to brake fluid.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/0547da63b932b94da166ceb0beb1b679.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I started by removing the center console. I had a feeling it was going to be a ridiculous pain in the butt. I was right. I watched a YouTube video on removing it but it was still confusing. It's just one of those things that until you just do it you'll never understand. So as I said....huge pain.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/ebaf77d94af64789677c96de90bac203.jpg
Some parts were already pre-broken before I started.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/0f48bf48a38b8de4e97be7edb6f25049.jpg
I'm not sure how I'm going to fix the pulled out rivets.
Removing the console revealed more chewed up wires. Apparently the rodents had a thing for purple wires. That's good for me because I already have some purple wire.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/499c1e9f151e9dbc3f89151cc40e4655.jpg
The rest of the wiring in there looked fine.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/8774163bf42cad05e193b42edea52b2d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I tried to get eyes on as much of the main harness as I could and what I couldn't see I felt with my fingers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/5ed2c89e1631c1a9c8d368a18fc7878e.jpg
I removed the glove box so I could check in behind the passenger side of the dash better.
Man this glove cover is HEAVY. It feels like it is cast iron or something. So weird.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/265c4a2c0694b63c3e9637aace11dc3b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/a0848b2e0f9bb3cfd9f7e160721ede65.jpg
There was a relay in the bottom of the glove box.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/4cdd0591634d11a16b9bbcfd53f4754b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next I taped yellow tape around the wiring near the tub. My thought was if I pull the harness back through the tub and when I pull the wiring all the way through the access hole by the washer tank and I can see the yellow tape then that means I have checked the full length of that wiring.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/414bcb4c2f6592fa0d890f59a25368b8.jpg
I wiggled the harness around while pushing on it. I went outside of the car and pulled on the wire I had taped onto the harness. Uh oh...it didn't want to budge. I went back and forth from inside pushing to outside then it happened....the wire broke loose of the harness. FU&%!!![emoji31][emoji36][emoji35]
Now what am I going to do! I tried pushing, I tried pulling, nothing. Great![emoji19]
I started scoping out how I would remove the fender and drill a hole in the tub with a hole saw. I couldn't believe I was in this predicament. I said screw it, said a little prayer and started yanking and twisting the wiring harness from inside the car. Talk about stressful!! But then it happened..just like a petite women giving birth to a 12# baby "pop" the wiring harness with the plugs popped out of the tub. Phew! THANK GOD!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/7736c614f7d38a23706a1456c07bfbbf.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

So in the end it actually worked out for the best. Now I was able to inspect the full length of the wiring harness and would have much better access for my repairs.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/38c0702faf50188c2a4aef6c8911bb07.jpg
I started by removing the old wrap back to where my new wrap stopped. I am using 3M Super 30+ tape. I cleaned the excrement stains off the harnesses.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/e4f09919c147651511b631c3f6e65941.jpg
I taped up the harness.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/81458cf7f4ef5e31f812ebbc44a5a985.jpg
I had one...maybe two female plug pins that looks dirty or corroded, one chewed through wire, and two wires with some light chewing of the insulation. Originally I was going to cut everything back and install new weatherproof connectors but the more I thought about I think I am going to extreme on some of this stuff.

I cleaned up the questionable connections with a tiny brush and a tiny file.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/7179367be62c8879b0c381b011fdaf5a.jpg
Getting old sucks. I had the hardest time seeing if the plug in pins were clean.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/86b64032352113fa93201ea86a8c03cd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/a08596c074b94de2007bc27acebeee87.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/4a8496149ddba17d17a62dba2e5a2700.jpg
I put Great Stuff over the damaged wires. It seem kind of hack job but I don't think it really is. That stuff sticks like crazy, is flexible, rugged and fuel proof. I think it will do the trick. Also keep in mind there are fuses for everything. If I end up blowing a fuse on this circuit I'll know where to look.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/0ffc94ab0eb7e5dc04b4b195340d6318.jpg

I just need to install two, two conductor weatherpack connectors on the harness.


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[JETS 81 DMC]

Check out DeoxIT products for electrical connections for cleaning and protecting them. Their products are highly recommended on the motorcycle and Corvette forums I frequent. This is where I learned about it. Not cheap but is worth it. I have used it and works very well.

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1602/.f

I am impressed with all of the work you and Tam have done. Also have learned a lot from it. I really enjoy following your posts and look forward to them. Don't give up and thanks for all your posts. :cheers:

[SupercoolBill]

Check out DeoxIT products for electrical connections for cleaning and protecting them. Their products are highly recommended on the motorcycle and Corvette forums I frequent. This is where I learned about it. Not cheap but is worth it. I have used it and works very well.

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1602/.f

I am impressed with all of the work you and Tam have done. Also have learned a lot from it. I really enjoy following your posts and look forward to them. Don't give up and thanks for all your posts. :cheers:Thanks for the info and kind words. This helps when I don't feel like spending and hour or more uploading to the forum after a long day.

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[SupercoolBill]

Here's some more pictures of what Tam got done.
We were just going to get a fiberglass front facia but if we can get almost all of the nuts off without breaking the studs we may just try reinforcing the eyebrows on this facia.
One thing I find interesting is that they have a fiberglass reinforcement plate running underneath the facia but it is cut out where the lights are which incidentally is right where the facia sags. Why didn't they just keep the fiberglass in these area? Anyone know?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/8637bd8c51034af2bdf3016bb959848c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/9db42e1a9cc3c6a081d222e3f9394ee3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/ee268dd238acda72a8daddf42c9d3816.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I was worried about taking harsh cleaners, files, wire brushes, etc. to the stock electrical connectors. My concern was if they were copper plated metal rather than full copper. So I tested grinding away on a spare plug connector. I was happy to find that they are copper all the way through.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/a4e4bd5e7df03c6d8c87c3037c875721.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/10606ea5bd5bc1eaafd327cc72aa53f0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for a few hours after work today.
Tam worked on the front facia and put another coat of Flexseal on the front bumper.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/56c1ded9f4124705b1392de5e9761a03.jpg

Funny story about the facia. I had her doing all kinds of crazy stuff to remove the nuts without snapping the studs because I thought that there were studs made into the facia like the rear one. I didn't even notice that there is a separate plate that the studs are welded into. Duh. While I was helping her try to chisel one of the nuts off the metal plate just fell out of the facia. [emoji2955]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/40ec474264da8e789067b7639c802a2f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/55a09ae1d49df95caa66d8ef25a7929b.jpg
I think in the end we had a total of four snapped studs. Looks like a pretty easy fix though. Cut the threaded part off some bolts and weld them onto the long metal part.

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[SupercoolBill]

I tied a new washer fluid tube onto the old one to pull it through the dash. I used the threaded part of a small bolt to hook the two together lined up. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/3452aabef69a35063789de039d49c762.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/11938a50bae9971f696c5a9030d044bd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240502/f292b1ad03776741598f78e9bf898e98.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I removed the windshield cowl. It's a shame that one section of it is broken up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240503/cca29b566f9b2f7963f285d9006c5e1a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240503/5056bc04a04bfcf78d97dcc86f41497c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240503/a337ad5f29f52bc206c3676c0ec516d6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I replaced one of the two conductor plugs with a new one and checked on my Great Stuff wire insulation repair.
There was no avoiding it anymore. I had to try to pull the main harness back through the tub. I tried three times and it kept getting stuck so I got Tam to help. We were able to get it thankfully.
Tam cleaned the drivers front part of the underside of the tub with scrub brushes and simple green.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240503/a4db828acf5c797549e6d42c455d95eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240503/7179aa985c0cfa368c40feed0f8a9654.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We are getting really close to being ready to put the body back on the frame finally. I did some final checks and found the top pin of one of the church connectors in the bulkhead plate was not fully seated. I tried pushing from inside the car with no luck. I was going to remove the church connector from the plate but the tub is blocking this from happening.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240503/ee32311e852357cbed393fe08ffe41c8.jpg
I'm not sure if this is normal or not. I'm wondering if the hole in the tub should have been cut larger.


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[SupercoolBill]

Here's my list of last things that I think we should do before installing the body on the frame.

1. I haven't removed the 90 Degree fitting from the evaporator drain and installed a longer hose. Is this a mandatory mod? So the issue is the 90 plugging up correct?
2. Clean middle part of underneath of tub (not super important but no better time to do it)
3. Wire wheel back side of glued on studs that hold the center console on then paint.
4. Wire wheel body mount washers and paint.
5. Fix dislodged pin in church connector in engine bay.
Maybe-
6. Remove bulkhead plate, remove all church connectors, remove tape and rearrange wiring then retape. * I taped these wires up before I had the church connectors plugged into the plate then when I plugged them in it seemed like some of the wires were way too tight while others had a lot of slack.
7. While bulkhead plate is off cut opening in tub up higher so top church connectors can be removed without removing the plate. Unless it is supposed to be like this.


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[Helirich]

You?re gonna be able to do a nice job on eye brows. I glued some aluminum in mine and they still look good, but I?m afraid I didn?t do it good enough. What?s your plan for the cowl?

[SupercoolBill]

You?re gonna be able to do a nice job on eye brows. I glued some aluminum in mine and they still look good, but I?m afraid I didn?t do it good enough. What?s your plan for the cowl?Yeah we still haven't decided if we will fix up the stock facia or replace it with a fiberglass one.
I'm thinking I may just take some heavy guage sheetmetal and attach it to the fiberglass piece (not the facia) with glue or rivets.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240503/94f98dd63a916f938461f14d1de5662a.jpg

The cowl could be fixed. I could file down where the pieces broke out, find a similar material to cut bars out of, shape them, epoxy them in, file and sand to blend in, then paint the whole thing. But we may just buy a new one from DMCH. I wonder if it would qualify for their free shipping. [emoji848]

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[Timeless]

I like the original as the black section can be sanded/polished. Fiberglass fascia is nice but that painted center section will get beat up by road debris/rocks.
I have an original fascia with aluminum strips glued in and they're holding up well - zero eyebrows. When the original paint gets to end of life and I get front and rear resprayed, my PPF installer says he has a ceramic product that will get that deep black color back and add some protection to the urethane.

[Rich]

The cowl could be fixed. I could file down where the pieces broke out, find a similar material to cut bars out of, shape them, epoxy them in, file and sand to blend in, then paint the whole thing. But we may just buy a new one from DMCH. I wonder if it would qualify for their free shipping. [emoji848]


No, as you might have noticed by now, their listing for the cowl screen specifies at the end of the description - oversize part, not eligible for free shipping

https://store.delorean.com/105047-cowl-screen.html

[SupercoolBill]

No, as you might have noticed by now, their listing for the cowl screen specifies at the end of the description - oversize part, not eligible for free shipping

https://store.delorean.com/105047-cowl-screen.htmlAhhh so it does. Dang.

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[SupercoolBill]

I like the original as the black section can be sanded/polished. Fiberglass fascia is nice but that painted center section will get beat up by road debris/rocks.
I have an original fascia with aluminum strips glued in and they're holding up well - zero eyebrows. When the original paint gets to end of life and I get front and rear resprayed, my PPF installer says he has a ceramic product that will get that deep black color back and add some protection to the urethane.It's funny how different people have different opinions on how to go about these things. The majority of people say to have the facias painted completely. They say that if you have the black part painted it holds up better to the UVs, doesn't dry out and constantly need to be treated to keep it looking good, etc. You have some good points though. Been mulling over the same thing for the mirrors, the side vents, the license plate vents, taillights, etc. Once again a lot of people say don't waste your time polishing, doing restore to black, etc. Just prep and paint semi-gloss black and be done with it.
Hard to know what is the best way to go.

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[Timeless]

I did have great results with Wurth trim paint for the side vents.

[Rich]

As a long-time owner of a D approaching 90K miles with one repaint of the front fascia I'll weigh in against painting the originally-unpainted black sections.

I've seen many poor black-bumper paint jobs on DeLorean fascias. Peeling, cracking and fading are common.

An unpainted bumper section can't peel or crack. Mine certainly hasn't faded.

When it came time to repaint my front fascia 10 years ago I went with a paint job covering only the silver painted sections. Before I got the car back from the shop (I chose not to remove the fascia for the work) I had them deep polish the black bumper sections front and rear using an orbital buffer. If I ever need to touch it up someday I can just get it polished again.

For maintenance I just hit it the black sections with Griot's Vinyl and Rubber Dressing two or three times per year.

It always looks just right.


It's funny how different people have different opinions on how to go about these things. The majority of people say to have the facias painted completely. They say that if you have the black part painted it holds up better to the UVs, doesn't dry out and constantly need to be treated to keep it looking good, etc. You have some good points though. Been mulling over the same thing for the mirrors, the side vents, the license plate vents, taillights, etc. Once again a lot of people say don't waste your time polishing, doing restore to black, etc. Just prep and paint semi-gloss black and be done with it.
Hard to know what is the best way to go.

[SupercoolBill]

As a long-time owner of a D approaching 90K miles with one repaint of the front fascia I'll weigh in against painting the originally-unpainted black sections.

I've seen many poor black-bumper paint jobs on DeLorean fascias. Peeling, cracking and fading are common.

An unpainted bumper section can't peel or crack. Mine certainly hasn't faded.

When it came time to repaint my front fascia 10 years ago I went with a paint job covering only the silver painted sections. Before I got the car back from the shop (I chose not to remove the fascia for the work) I had them deep polish the black bumper sections front and rear using an orbital buffer. If I ever need to touch it up someday I can just get it polished again.

For maintenance I just hit it the black sections with Griot's Vinyl and Rubber Dressing two or three times per year.

It always looks just right.Nice that's for the advice.

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam and I spent yesterday doing a race in the mountains of New Hampshire. I am still on the struggle bus so I ran/walked a half marathon (13.1 miles). Tam on the other hand ran the full marathon (26.2 miles).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/78b45596cf7210b6d631b308e18304e8.jpg
We were both sore and moving slow today but we decided to work on the car today (3P-8:30).
I disconnected and removed the bulkhead plate.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/aed41986414541c9478d17b49a30acd6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/e294865175ecd63436a804564eee77fd.jpg
In this photo you can see how much of the top holes are blocked with the fiberglass.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/3fad586572d451b919d27bc26855eefd.jpg
I measured, marked, and trimmed the fiberglass.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/d5102965f487b8915cbe7ae71a2fa6a8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/2813271eb1a765722a52d47b1f31d7d6.jpg
I'm going to leave the harness unplugged for now. I still need to repair some chewed wires.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/bcbdacf0e9bb4838b170affd212eafba.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam removed parts from the front of the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/63e0e5509cf3dd3e8d80b93d816a698a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/9792a6bdb0b388fde10bd9e41e44561e.jpg
Meanwhile I climbed under the car to do some final "While you're in there" work.
I cleaned up the body mount disks and the back side of the center console studs with a wire wheel then painted them with some paint I had kicking around.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/aeec249376fdbf46de8bc4367813c155.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/8459e3d66f5c848a4b7649f70b3e523b.jpg
Does anyone know what the holes are for?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/36cfc2567367f36161f0c2511b43be67.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I made a gasket for the shifter box to tunnel connection.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/b16f064ac0e7980eae1611f39483ac72.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/7ef05770906ec7c82ba3201f3927750c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/a19e4448798de4f493b79bad995e716b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/646693312db454d7dcb41411e40141cc.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

And finally....after 2 years...the frame goes under the car. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/e13c70cf69e7f3d3dd45a185c1e773b9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/f2d71cae8eb25b2660bd1ddde1130649.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/bf73bbbc039b2bc9bfe1243694f6cfb6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/a6d01a3e95763c48de7a60c45424a55c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

As you would probably guess it is a slow process of continuously checking everything while lowering the car until it is finally resting on the frame.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/ab0f5cdc88b1f08fc837e34a497e4470.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/99735210709b7e09bab00221badc56fe.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/b4d03c3d9d30e28c946f262dfb18f703.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/2e63a9d3c133ddfe9d08458af46cfd7a.jpg
Celebration time!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240507/367bb1abf8148c0cf2b3701ee7c050c7.jpg

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[Rich]

Congrats to you both. Two jobs well done.

A. The frame and chassis are back together.

B. You both are still together.

Thanks for the nice team photo at the end of the report; also after your races on the weekend.

[ssdelorean]

Congrats to you both. Two jobs well done.

A. The frame and chassis are back together.

B. You both are still together.

Thanks for the nice team photo at the end of the report; also after your races on the weekend.

Huzzah in deed! Great job.
I just ask that you are NOT afraid to drive it once you have it complete. Some of my friends get their car so perfect, so clean they don't want to drive them. It needs to be enjoyed and driven!

[Mark D]

CONGRATS! Such a monumental moment in the history of this project finally seeing the body touch down on the frame. I'm happy for both of you, and hope this helps give you a boost in morale. You'll be driving this thing in no time.

[Helirich]

Great moment! Great pic!

[SupercoolBill]

Huzzah in deed! Great job.
I just ask that you are NOT afraid to drive it once you have it complete. Some of my friends get their car so perfect, so clean they don't want to drive them. It needs to be enjoyed and driven!Yeah we plan on driving it. It won't be every day, not in bad weather (if possible), not to Walmart, etc. But it will get driven regularly in the spring summer and fall.

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[FLUX @88]

Yeah we plan on driving it. It won't be every day, not in bad weather (if possible), not to Walmart, etc. But it will get driven regularly in the spring summer and fall.

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lol I drive mine to walmart all the time.

[SupercoolBill]

lol I drive mine to walmart all the time.Haha that's awesome.

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car yesterday from 10:30A to 9:30P. The plan was to get the fuel system pressurized before we bolt the body to the frame.
Well, not as simple as it sounds.
In order to hook up the fuel lines all of the intake part of the engine needs to be installed. In order to do that we first need to plug in the wires that go under the intake assembly and....since we have a new D-Ind engine wiring that gets routed totally different than the original harness we had to start by figuring all of that out. Also no better time than now to tidy up and install the harness for the coil resistor.

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[SupercoolBill]

This harness is in rough shape but usable with some new connectors.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/b3aa4ed98036d65810b0f2a012f9268e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/f22d4803a9778d03e3b3168791642b93.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/da2dafbfabc1ac60c560d9e99a173b59.jpg
This has been the process for cutting back and installing new connectors has been for every part of this project. Carefully sand the wire to remove the black for a better connection.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/e1c25562eafd56710d52ebfcbe5c7bee.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/e5cea86c728916e0b3f52e55dca50fee.jpg
We made a new harness for the reverse switch with a weatherpack connector.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/b65468fbade3586f0070bf9299aec92d.jpg
I'm not sure if the goop inside reverse switch boot was factory or someone did it but I pulled all of that out for now.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/5dff58974b2ec5316cdebadba45c10ee.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/ee7280d6a099972b18060b879f6e287c.jpg
The original harness had the smaller size plug on spade connectors. Luckily before installing I reached under the car and tried to plug on the smaller size and it wouldn't fit. Our switch is a new replacement so I am guessing that they changed to the standard size so that's what we went with. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/6331a4b00ab24417a5981fa31f0f713f.jpg
The harness all taped back up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/f4aa0f2e195e23d5df74a5bbf6910b3c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/adc8125c2be930f99be0779226186569.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

We had a mystery plug connection. It looked like maybe it was never plugged in to anything. It has a fairly large gauge red and black wire. I assume the black is ground. The red may be the one that changes to black on the outside of the harness. The only thing we could find on the wiring Diagram was a Transmission Nuetral Switch.
We didn't remember the transmission having a neutral switch and I couldn't find anything referencing one as a part online so we are assuming we don't have one on our manual transmission car. I texted back and forth with Andy L. about it. He said that it is something that other people have wondered about before and never figured out what it is for. Or at least I think that is what he meant.
If anyone has any more insight on this that would be great. I really wish we would have traced out the wires while we had it untaped. Maybe they don't even go to anything. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/c78a2ee3fbf03b044c3018759b1e0e31.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/84c573686dd44c285e7efde576fd2c3b.jpg

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[Timeless]

I asked here about that same plug a while back and forgot what the answer was. If it's worth anything it was hanging at the firewall when I bought my car and it ran and drove. Now after the EFI conversion it's still tucked back there with no operational issues. I believed I heard it was a diagnostic plug for K-Jet adjustment (other than dwell meter) but I can't see that as correct as all my K-Jet components and related wiring is gone.

[Delorean Industries]

We had a mystery plug connection. It looked like maybe it was never plugged in to anything. It has a fairly large gauge red and black wire. I assume the black is ground. The red may be the one that changes to black on the outside of the harness. The only thing we could find on the wiring Diagram was a Transmission Nuetral Switch.
We didn't remember the transmission having a neutral switch and I couldn't find anything referencing one as a part online so we are assuming we don't have one on our manual transmission car. I texted back and forth with Andy L. about it. He said that it is something that other people have wondered about before and never figured out what it is for. Or at least I think that is what he meant.
If anyone has any more insight on this that would be great. I really wish we would have traced out the wires while we had it untaped. Maybe they don't even go to anything. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/c78a2ee3fbf03b044c3018759b1e0e31.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/84c573686dd44c285e7efde576fd2c3b.jpg

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Not required. doubles back into firewall and has a jumper on later cars included with capacitor. The main engine harness we produced for you has a capacitor built-in on the back side of the ignition vac solenoid as well to negate any other nonsense they came up with during production changes.

[SupercoolBill]

Not required. doubles back into firewall and has a jumper on later cars included with capacitor. The main engine harness we produced for you has a capacitor built-in on the back side of the ignition vac solenoid as well to negate any other nonsense they came up with during production changes.Okay. Will it work with a modern vacuum advance solenoid? That is what I have. My original was rusted to crap.

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[SupercoolBill]

More catching up on yesterday's work.
I'll probably replace this relay but since I had some aluminum tape at hand I made it look a bit better.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/5f05ca7d46de733e8e88c63a251b5907.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/253eaa85f542ec8511f044326b0ecdd0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/0e763dd1da36efd6918f1b9fc94a6cb9.jpg
I made a new ground wire with some wire I had laying around. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/8408e8c62d2c85c119b1a2d6be6f36db.jpg
Here's the pile of debris from this harness.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/ce27f85373d99960eac39623fb75f06b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I didn't get pictures of it, but the next thing we did was install the ignition harness. The hardest part was trying to install the ground wires under the screw on the resistor. There's no good way to hold the tiny nut in behind the mounting plate while you try to tighten the screw into the nut. The thing that finally worked was taping the nut into the open end of a 8mm wrench and stuffing a 8mm shallow socket with scraps of paper towel.
Yes we could have just removed the entire assembly to do the job but we were trying to avoid all of that. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/4bd9af4e2e443ab12a6c754f987bb97d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We strapped the new engine harness (provided by D-Ind) in place and started trying to figure out what goes where.
Several of the plug connectors are the same so we had to spend a lot of time searching the wiring diagram and looking at some pics Josh had sent me a while ago to figure out what's what.
This sounds really simple but it is not. Maybe we were too tired or something but we really struggled to figure what plugged on where, how the wires should be routed, etc. We literally spent hours on this. I probably should have messaged Josh but as a business owner and a dad myself I hate to keep bugging Josh. Especially at 7P on the weekend. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/597066f77beef28ab6ebf024dd04f6d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/4c83f8dd1c8bd5863f03a5d3dec361a6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

With the connections on the Y-pipe done the intake could be installed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/59d79b6aced521ec1309c65540298ac4.jpg
A picture showing the wires on the passenger side of the engine.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/997a05e582da88343dd05ea2a5766f9c.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

We had a four pin weatherpack connector that we didn't know what it was for. I finally gave in and messaged Josh.
He said this connector goes to the throttle microswitches. He said that the automatic transmission cars have two microswitches and the standard has only one. He said look at the colors on your existing harness and match up to the same color wires on the new harness.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/9ad1628927183469bdc7b6cfe072cccd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/76aff87a0ba6495009920b7a3c2b0947.jpg
I bought special crimper for these type connectors but I still struggle with getting a good crimp. I have ordered a different crimper to try going forward.


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[SupercoolBill]

We continued installing the intake parts. These are pictures of me trying to figure out why these plastic rings are needed and how they actually work. I posted some questions on the FB technical group. I am hearing that these rings stop the W-pipe and the throttle assembly from pulling tight together thus pushing the rubber o-rings out of position.
I feel like maybe this is a design flaw. Also I don't know how the disk is not falling down behind the rubber orings during assembly.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/a6512052afa21480d868799644c5c346.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/3fc7990a910be97aae80a28c3aa1bfa1.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The last thing I did was install this plate. I bought a new stainless one from D-Ind. The new one was completely flat. So I bent it to match the old one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/76c418cba65febe7b0218b722c5afddf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/6d760c6c01a8eb7e47689c67d3c8129e.jpg
I also messaged Josh about this. He said that if you are using stock plug wires it stays straight if not stock bent or something like that. I may have it backwards.
I bolted it up. It doesn't seem right to me. Maybe it will make sense later.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/d14121091f5ffdd16000ae6fee214124.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/e85e052a71936d70f32110a264a872af.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Forgot how tight things get in and around this engine compartment. There is a lot going on.
The temptation is always there to simplify things by switching to a carburetor or even EFI. A mechanical fuel injection system has a lot of pieces. A lot to go wrong. I couldn't imagine adding turbo or twin turbo also. What a nightmare to work on that would be.

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[Rich]

Refer to this parts diagram (https://store.delorean.com/parts/engine/1-4-1-air-induction-system.html).

Step 1 - drop 1 each of the 2 backup rings (Item 53) into each tube of the butterfly assembly. No lube or adhesive.
Step 2 - lightly lube each of the O-rings (Item 54) - slip one of the O-rings over each male nozzle/pipe in the middle of the W-pipe

Each backup rings fit into a recess in the butterfly assembly.

If the backup rings are too large to fit into the first recess at the end the butterfly call your vendor (in the photo the ring looks larger than it should be - which would lead to your possible confusion). It should be a loose fit, not quite an interference fit, but almost.

The design might look like a compromise but it works nicely as long as the right parts are assembled in the correct order. Don't add extra O-rings or skip the backup rings or use any special sealants/adhesives. For a while I think the backup rings were NLA which led to some owners getting creative in this area.


We continued installing the intake parts. These are pictures of me trying to figure out why these plastic rings are needed and how they actually work. I posted some questions on the FB technical group. I am hearing that these rings stop the W-pipe and the throttle assembly from pulling tight together thus pushing the rubber o-rings out of position.
I feel like maybe this is a design flaw. Also I don't know how the disk is not falling down behind the rubber orings during assembly.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240512/a6512052afa21480d868799644c5c346.jpg

[Rich]

Further info for your question about the fitting of the plastic backup rings between the butterfly and the W-pipe:

Not sure whether the rings in your photos were originals from your teardown or came from somewhere else.

I have one of the original backup rings here - compare dimensions of yours to these dims:

OD = 55mm
ID = 51mm

[SupercoolBill]

Refer to this parts diagram (https://store.delorean.com/parts/engine/1-4-1-air-induction-system.html).

Step 1 - drop 1 each of the 2 backup rings (Item 53) into each tube of the butterfly assembly. No lube or adhesive.
Step 2 - lightly lube each of the O-rings (Item 54) - slip one of the O-rings over each male nozzle/pipe in the middle of the W-pipe

Each backup rings fit into a recess in the butterfly assembly.

If the backup rings are too large to fit into the first recess at the end the butterfly call your vendor (in the photo the ring looks larger than it should be - which would lead to your possible confusion). It should be a loose fit, not quite an interference fit, but almost.

The design might look like a compromise but it works nicely as long as the right parts are assembled in the correct order. Don't add extra O-rings or skip the backup rings or use any special sealants/adhesives. For a while I think the backup rings were NLA which led to some owners getting creative in this area.Rich I thought the same thing but they are much too large to fit inside the female end.
I thought the same as you. Even though I got them from a reputable vendor (Delorean NW) maybe they are wrong but then I came across what I can only assume is one of my original ones and it was the same dimensions when laid on top.
Also after some searching online Tam was reading somewhere online that someone was saying that if done correctly the two parts won't pull tight together. The plastic rings will be spacing the two pieces apart slightly.

So....I don't know who's right and who's wrong. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240513/ad837c8c22259633e8165b878861146d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240513/b6c7db3e1d8841d0934ca0611e384c0d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Getting caught up on posts. We worked on the car from 5:30P to 9:30P last night and the night before. The focus was on the electrical in the relay/fuse compartment.
I picked up some items that I thought I might need for repairing chewed wires.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240515/84afea0fd5e558e0dd3a6b99bbe02dc1.jpg
I wanted to find a way to pull the wiring harness up out of the fuse/relay area.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240515/36a1454d64c464b1fe5b58dc249c7b30.jpg
I stripped the carpet and was able to remove the center plywood section.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240515/eca0309b05214ff41fc7c1083c7c3408.jpg
I removed the netting
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240515/6b0bbe760d10d67a238599a68c35dc17.jpg



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[SupercoolBill]

Found a glass fuse. Not sure why since this car doesn't take glass fuses as far as I know.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/29ca9e1e0b1261cf4d9aecdddbf9d649.jpg
Taking things apart. The door lock module is going to stay removed for now. I don't want to get trapped in the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/6fa364d2bd10f1e02490d5d489a4b410.jpg
Honey Dippers tape case...no cassette inside.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/64605be2d688cdddd429f9cfcbfa60aa.jpg
Grossness
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/f55211c0d935a2cd739190f19cd3b085.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/b3f59f709d03e050f3c5da3434cece40.jpg
The collection from in the electrical box.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/d3bf3f13aa646e2f77e3f9fb9c3c9faf.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

This is all new territory to me.
Electrical box pulled out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/3338da2f6c5ca0b1c707514171dfc2f5.jpg
Picture of how I found it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/7bf5d51cf8614e53c42cb0fee7e5447e.jpg
One overload jumpered (cooling fans??).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/7800b0431194cdf7394473773dc83ecd.jpg
This relay cover popped off. Not sure what this does. Lambda relay??
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/044a056fabea749e7dedff04b7075d1b.jpg
Tam was bored so I let her get in to clean and disinfect the area. She wore a respirator and gloves and told me I should do the same.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/0567bb75fd2f6cf8399c947e0daefb2e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/e903381c8cd5e3b18e05a226cbb4ee16.jpg

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[GS450-Junkie]

I think the green one is rear defrost. A little dab of glue for that cover to go back on.

[SupercoolBill]

Tray emptied of relays, fuse block, and wiring
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/e74ad2acf930f5b7306a5495e5db450c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/103890079d8cfb2f8e082e10cc4be2c1.jpg
Tam blasted and painted the tray.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/e5b2343baf46e05638c596e126d92fac.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/c13a6869178bd6e60a42dec50fffc1af.jpg
I dug out the relay/fuse kit I had bought from D-Ind.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/d07a24ab10f40b73363cb7106b0dd7ff.jpg
I climbed back in the torture chamber and started cleaning wiring, relay blocks, etc.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/a2db1d818ab451958f79f051bb06f77c.jpg
A couple of the fuses came out pretty hard.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/e8cbf338022c76b4c04c1c5bb67aee6a.jpg
One fuse was a bit melted.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/28bc469a09c97145a6734d75ccb48aff.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/dfba35168737c71d255afe3bd4890273.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I think the green one is rear defrost. A little dab of glue for that cover to go back on.That makes sense...probably has a timer circuit built in.

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[SupercoolBill]

The new overloads I got from had studs instead of slide on connections.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/5e3feca91d908847c98d95d4f9027fd8.jpg
One end of these says "batt" and the other says "aux". Basically line and load. I'm not sure if the orientation is that critical or not. I matched the orientation of the overloads with the old ones. Hopefully I'm good with how I have them wired.
The ring connectors are a bit more of a pain to deal with but are highly recommend over the spade connector ones.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/805c7842ea1c0e6780b7abec6a082480.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/06020921cc70defcda7018fe5b5ec9a6.jpg
Things going back together. All relays got dielectric grease on the terminals.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/1d9faf29e6632deb3f3cc4368e3c2bd8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/cead9ac8f14899168eff0e798b94581d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I retaped the wiring. Everything back together.
Anyone know what the relay base with no relay in it and what the relay base randomly part way up the harness go to? Maybe stuff for automatic transmission cars?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/be2a756a0df01be62fc22d4acb8b9397.jpg
My notes on the overloads.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/48ed44329b014cdd2eb2bce740ad1a17.jpg
While I was doing this Tam installed the injectors and D-Ind injector retainers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/8b1a83ba65faf742083fb0eca1d863b9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/df957489d4f2820b3ce47d39041feb6f.jpg


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[AugustneverEnds]

I retaped the wiring. Everything back together.
Anyone know what the relay base with no relay in it and what the relay base randomly part way up the harness go to? Maybe stuff for automatic transmission cars?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/be2a756a0df01be62fc22d4acb8b9397.jpg
My notes on the overloads.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/48ed44329b014cdd2eb2bce740ad1a17.jpg
While I was doing this Tam installed the injectors and D-Ind injector retainers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/8b1a83ba65faf742083fb0eca1d863b9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/df957489d4f2820b3ce47d39041feb6f.jpg


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The one relay you're missing is the interior light delay for the courtesy lights. The random socket towards the rear is for a hot start relay. When the cars were new they were not equipped with anything installed there.

[SupercoolBill]

The one relay you're missing is the interior light delay for the courtesy lights. The random socket towards the rear is for a hot start relay. When the cars were new they were not equipped with anything installed there.So those wires are ran but not used for anything?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

So those wires are ran but not used for anything?

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I think they copied what Volvo did. After I designed my hot start relay, someone found a Volvo hot start relay and sent it to me. It basically did what I designed but it modulates the CSV.

[Rich]

"This relay cover popped off. Not sure what this does. Lambda relay??"

That relay on the right end of the upper row with the green cover is the rear defogger circuit timer.

The relay next to it is the Lambda relay. Check the wiring diagram or relay diagram to be sure.

Note the Lambda relay is NOT interchangeable with the other relays that look similar to it. If you use the wrong relay in the Lambda socket the system won't to into closed loop mode.

[AugustneverEnds]

So those wires are ran but not used for anything?

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For the factory set up, correct, wires are there but not used. As I'm sure you gathered from Bitsyncmaster's post, he can supply you with a relay if you have hot start problems.

[SupercoolBill]

"This relay cover popped off. Not sure what this does. Lambda relay??"

That relay on the right end of the upper row with the green cover is the rear defogger circuit timer.

The relay next to it is the Lambda relay. Check the wiring diagram or relay diagram to be sure.

Note the Lambda relay is NOT interchangeable with the other relays that look similar to it. If you use the wrong relay in the Lambda socket the system won't to into closed loop mode.Gotcha!!

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[SupercoolBill]

I found a picture online so I could put the cover back on in the correct orientation not that it really matters probably.
Some superglue from the hardware store did the trick.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/a89116786054f3453ac736d059f1ca6b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/153a792f396ce6b3ed214c110d69d30f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/f30e564679ba48722a06a58e0c5a1988.jpg
I can't express how convenient this hardware store is. I have become good friends with the owner and it is a short walk from the shop.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/c148786b0d6a2c34bdb6c5be88a9aff1.jpg
Before going home after work Tam and I discussed what is left to be done on the car. I'm leaving at noon time tomorrow to go visit my parents 4 hours away. So we won't get anything done on the car until next week. Then next week is pretty busy. We knew this would happen once we got into warmer weather. It is frustrating to think that we may not have the car on the road this summer.
I took the old BMW for the first ride of the year and headed home to pack for my visit.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/8d55bf89a24d4817b38c7b6d40815811.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240516/352b7c42ad7101a0ed9236966a439d66.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I spent Friday night and Saturday visiting family up in Northern Maine. Picked some fiddle heads while up there and fed the black flies my blood.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/51eb0388fc3377568188ea9ed6fcb67e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/0798f337a6a2ac1df885b3f377b889e0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/9d3f9c50f46c0769845f5a9eb0468a21.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam and I worked on the car for around 8 hours today.
I started inside the car. I carefully cut the tape off from the damaged (chewed) wiring. It wasn't as bad as it looked. Only two wires were down to the copper wire and one of them was a ground wire.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/db8a79116d75f0818379e4a43220e018.jpg
Probably going to be some hater out there disagreeing with how I repaired the wires. I think it was the best way to go without turning this into another project.
Crimp goes on
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/c4abdcbdfd3e29a00e625622f6e6c092.jpg
The first heat shrink
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/5d580851b6464c61f443795f2ae1a40f.jpg
Second heat shrink layer in red
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/6674cb06b91f54819ba95684519fd723.jpg
Liquid tape brushed onto the thin insulation wires.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/6ca1593a64b733ffaf912534d226257b.jpg
All wires fixed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/ecf0668099e47d0fda91964f84af3c5d.jpg
Wiring taped up with cloth tape.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/16c6f7f75c8f6f8d4dd296dd444876e1.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I sprayed the plug connectors with the fancy electrical cleaner stuff I bought. I felt like it didn't do anything but make a mess. Oh well.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/74abfebacd525d00fc6e0e4d4fd86b12.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/71f9798ed78fd19bec8bdce5f662f3b2.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Some dielectric first then install the defrost relay.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/f604064826a93e7b5a187fc57ed64e40.jpg
Same thing for all of the fuses
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/3a1801d943ed66c840b9d502883d3709.jpg

Next I plugged all the church connectors into the bulkhead plate. This was way more of a pain than I thought it would be. I seems like they made no effort to make the wiring the correct lengths for these connectors. Some connectors wires end up being banjo string tight and others have slack.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/40bd88c5576695f375eede27302c9fec.jpg
Next in connected the ground and positive lugs through the bulkhead.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/747ab5749d656c8b94c0ad5f6a19a6f5.jpg
I really hate how the wiring is situated from the factory.

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[SupercoolBill]

Next up installing new bulkhead gaskets. We used the old gaskets to mark where the new ones will go.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/a329401572143de06f777e243ad94571.jpg
I decided to punch an extra hole in the gasket.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/c4d65f864cd2c8d8dde4482b0e30dae1.jpg
Door gasket adhesive applied to the plate and the gaskets.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/29c8c66eb70a72080def940371f4bb36.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/f567c419992b496fd34e7e99eedc07f9.jpg
Gaskets installed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/eb0b444240dd637525fe95cebd61e9ef.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The new coil didn't have a male connector on the negative side. So we took the one off the old coil and cleaned it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/c1e371eec0c606d0cafe8c5ca872a275.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/8f926208617fb7769ce8500cd02ad0fc.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

We have a modern style vacuum solenoid so I had to do some wiring to make it adapt. I cringed as I cut the connector off from my brand new $500 D-Ind harness.
I made an educated guess on which wire connects to which. It is just a solenoid coil so I don't think it matters.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/df889f55b75bf3a48a657229e7a03e1b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/537f8f98b5cf8833bebcb6fb61b31afc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/ed60a6e706d5644a6bf21e0541f8b5f6.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/351d8de48be4df1bff81000321c443cc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/1b4b9d18fc74912c972a041b9c50797e.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We cleaned up the positive cable and installed it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/5485a91df6925ffb84dc3dbac463d88f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/1f766ab3079f038904f249a33a3f5ab7.jpg
It seems like the cable that I got from D-Ind was made too long but we made it work. I may shorten it at some point.


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[SupercoolBill]

Next we installed the plug wires. We tried to do it with the air mixture assembly in place but eventually gave up and took it off so we could get the wires onto the spark distributor.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/3ed5227e48bf8ffc469b902aec67648b.jpg
I'm not crazy about these plug wires. I don't like the lengths most of them are too long. They are also really difficult to get snapped onto the spark plugs. I had to really push down as hard as I could to get them to click onto the plug caps.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/8576f23c5728c44c2cfca3e32dcfb061.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/c4a87aaf6b4550527fccc54f1765a71e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240520/5fe3339c30f5dd4caa6b5a3f3b9bd214.jpg

If anyone knows a better way to run the plug wires I'd love to hear it.

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[Helirich]

I know I changed plug wires (and dizzy cap) without removing the air intake. None of my wires run under it.

[Rich]

You ask about organizing the plug wires.

Is there a reason you chose not to reinstall the original Plug Wire Bracket (https://store.delorean.com/102272-plug-wire-bracket.html) for the wires on the pass side? It might help you hold the extra length of some wires out of sight behind the engine without resorting to cable ties.

This diagram (https://store.delorean.com/parts/engine/1-4-1-air-induction-system.html) shows the standard mounting of that part.

Plug wire neatness counts less on that side, though, due to the the Air Filter Housing.


Next we installed the plug wires. We tried to do it with the air mixture assembly in place but eventually gave up and took it off so we could get the wires onto the spark distributor.

If anyone knows a better way to run the plug wires I'd love to hear it.

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[SupercoolBill]

You ask about organizing the plug wires.

Is there a reason you chose not to reinstall the original Plug Wire Bracket (https://store.delorean.com/102272-plug-wire-bracket.html) for the wires on the pass side? It might help you hold the extra length of some wires out of sight behind the engine without resorting to cable ties.

This diagram (https://store.delorean.com/parts/engine/1-4-1-air-induction-system.html) shows the standard mounting of that part.

Plug wire neatness counts less on that side, though, due to the the Air Filter Housing.I didn't like how it fit. It seemed very awkward so I took it off. I ended up running them in a p-clamp instead.


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[glockworks21]

'm not crazy about these plug wires. I don't like the lengths most of them are too long. They are also really difficult to get snapped onto the spark plugs. I had to really push down as hard as I could to get them to click onto the plug caps.


do the boots not slide up over the plug wires on this style so that you can get a solid connection on the plug? then slide the boot back down? I remember cursing mine for a bit before i realized this...

[SupercoolBill]

'm not crazy about these plug wires. I don't like the lengths most of them are too long. They are also really difficult to get snapped onto the spark plugs. I had to really push down as hard as I could to get them to click onto the plug caps.


do the boots not slide up over the plug wires on this style so that you can get a solid connection on the plug? then slide the boot back down? I remember cursing mine for a bit before i realized this...No the caps are made onto the wire. You can't push the center part onto the plug then slide the rubber cap down.

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 5:30P to 8:00. Every time we miss a few days or more on the car it is hard to get going again. Tam removed the old injectors from the fuel lines then tried putting the fuel lines on the injectors. She was getting REALLY mad especially when she dropped a copper sealing washer down into the valley. Of course it doesn't help that she started with the left side of the engine.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240523/f89a78310d6796513ec73c68640bf4a8.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Three hours later this is all we managed to get done.
We spent a LOT of time scrolling through pictures trying to find correct routing of the lines.
Does this look correct?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240523/e14e5ce75aad0564ebb9f2fcda21bf5f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240523/f2773d76c569b6762771b9668f3176d6.jpg
It was remarkably hot out today (90 degrees) so I went for a motorcycle ride home to de-stress.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240523/7c4f6424b192102f98d7af03fcb77eeb.jpg

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[AugustneverEnds]

Your lines look fine. With stainless lines the routing is dictated by how they will bend. If both ends are securely connected and not interfering with anything else, you're good. The OEM rubber lines have more bend which gives you more ways to drive yourself crazy trying to arrange them just so.

[SupercoolBill]

Your lines look fine. With stainless lines the routing is dictated by how they will bend. If both ends are securely connected and not interfering with anything else, you're good. The OEM rubber lines have more bend which gives you more ways to drive yourself crazy trying to arrange them just so.Gotcha

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[SupercoolBill]

Tonight we worked on the car from 5:30P till 8:30P.
Earlier today we received an order that I placed with D-Ind a couple days ago. The quick delivery is much appreciated.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/265e917ed452a003f697ab59c955fd0c.jpg
Being the critic that I am the only gripe with the radiator rock guard is almost TOO heavy duty. This thing is heavy!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/bd5ac50f56055de20019360d9d4a49f6.jpg
Better that than something flimsy and cheap though. Great quality product. Everything else was also top notch as usual.

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[SupercoolBill]

Our goal tonight was to pressure test the fuel system. Before we worked on the fuel lines though we had to check to see if we forgot to install the Pipe of Agony seal. I found a new seal in a bag so I had my suspicions.
We looked in with a mirror and sure enough....no seal. Dang it!! Pulled a bunch of stuff back apart.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/571e93e3ff05016d3e095d72325f2098.jpg
I tested the seal and it fit very loose. I cleaned the seal and seal hole with isopropyl alcohol, smeared some Great Stuff on the hole, and installed the seal.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/c2720c214a8b18017b612929244ad366.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/ab70f2b382a51e205b3ca7f35d371ff2.jpg

That was a fun detour....

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[SupercoolBill]

Had to go to bed last night (5:00A comes early) so picking up where I had left off on my report of what we did last night.
We sifted through pictures online, in our own pictures, YouTube videos, etc try to determine the best way to run the flexible fuel lines.
I am so glad that I learned about being able to rotate the banjo at the end of the lines. The first time we did this I didn't know that they could be rotated and it was extremely difficult to get the lines run.

This banjo bolt doesn't seem quite long enough with the new banjo ends. I messaged Josh about it. He had me take a picture of the head of the bolt. He was looking to see if it had their marking on it. It didn't. So maybe we thought maybe I didn't get it from D-Ind. But I thought I did and he has record of us purchasing a banjo bolt kit from him on Nov 21. Odd...I think he is just going to go ahead and send another (longer) bolt.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/78b69dba49fbd7c5f6db700a3d921303.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/746c626514b3364a1d6176731474e759.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

No pictures but next we connected the fuel filler hose and vent to the filler neck, dumped a gallon or two of ethanol free gas into the tank, grabbed a fire extinguisher, and sent 12 volts to the fuel pump. It took a little while to get everything primed but eventually we built fuel pressure. Then the leaks started.[emoji2955] The fuel filter inlet fitting was leaking really bad and something in the accumulator area was leaking. Yee ha. [emoji19]
I wasn't too surprised that the 90 on the fuel filter leaked. I had bought a nice SS threaded by compression 90 somewhere...maybe at the local hydraulic store. It wasn't tapered thread though so I put an o-ring on it. That didn't work...it's leaking.
The leak near at the accumulator worries me though.
The car isn't high enough to get under right now and we have still not bolted the body to the frame yet so I think we will jack up under the frame (WITH BLOCKING!) then either set the tires on ramps or put jack stands under the frame.

Good news is....so far no leaks on any of the flexible hoses on the engine! [emoji2]

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[AugustneverEnds]

No pictures but next we connected the fuel filler hose and vent to the filler neck, dumped a gallon or two of ethanol free gas into the tank, grabbed a fire extinguisher, and sent 12 volts to the fuel pump. It took a little while to get everything primed but eventually we built fuel pressure. Then the leaks started.[emoji2955] The fuel filter inlet fitting was leaking really bad and something in the accumulator area was leaking. Yee ha. [emoji19]
I wasn't too surprised that the 90 on the fuel filter leaked. I had bought a nice SS threaded by compression 90 somewhere...maybe at the local hydraulic store. It wasn't tapered thread though so I put an o-ring on it. That didn't work...it's leaking.
The leak near at the accumulator worries me though.
The car isn't high enough to get under right now and we have still not bolted the body to the frame yet so I think we will jack up under the frame (WITH BLOCKING!) then either set the tires on ramps or put jack stands under the frame.

Good news is....so far no leaks on any of the flexible hoses on the engine! [emoji2]

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Glad your engine lines are leak free.

I nominate the accumulator as the car's biggest PITA to get tight without f'ing up something. Are you still using the original hard lines? I replaced my accumulator two years ago and the damn thing would not stop leaking to save my life. I took it off and reassembled three times, tried sealing tape on everything threaded, generally drove myself insane. It turned out the hard line going to the 90-degree fitting was pitted and leaking. Since that line is mounted between the frame and the tub and I was not going to separate the two, I ended up having a new line made to bypass the original hard line. Since you are doing a complete frame off restoration, you probably have all new fuel lines so probably not your problem. But perhaps it would be easier to use a new flexible line and eliminate the 90-degree fitting.

[Helirich]

Being the critic that I am the only gripe with the radiator rock guard is almost TOO heavy duty. This thing is heavy!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/bd5ac50f56055de20019360d9d4a49f6.jpg
Better that than something flimsy and cheap though. Great quality product. Everything else was also top notch as usual.


I like your gripe. You?re probably going to cost me some money.

Good luck with the leaks.

[Timeless]

I like your gripe. You?re probably going to cost me some money.
It's worth it. Not only looks more modern but way more robust than the OE grille. I have one and when I removed my original from my ultra low-mileage car it had a broken stud and the mesh is really weak.

[SupercoolBill]

Glad your engine lines are leak free.

I nominate the accumulator as the car's biggest PITA to get tight without f'ing up something. Are you still using the original hard lines? I replaced my accumulator two years ago and the damn thing would not stop leaking to save my life. I took it off and reassembled three times, tried sealing tape on everything threaded, generally drove myself insane. It turned out the hard line going to the 90-degree fitting was pitted and leaking. Since that line is mounted between the frame and the tub and I was not going to separate the two, I ended up having a new line made to bypass the original hard line. Since you are doing a complete frame off restoration, you probably have all new fuel lines so probably not your problem. But perhaps it would be easier to use a new flexible line and eliminate the 90-degree fitting.All new SS lines, new fittings, new hoses, and new accumulator.

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[SupercoolBill]

I like your gripe. You?re probably going to cost me some money.

Good luck with the leaks.Yeah you could literally blow up the car and this thing would still be in good shape. It's so rugged you could lay it across a campfire and use it to cook burgers. Seriously,....you could do that.

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[SupercoolBill]

I was just thinking...if I put the car up on ramps we could get under there and torque down the suspension bolts with weight on the frame. Make a twofer out of it at least.

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[SupercoolBill]

I found my old post where I used a non tapered thread fitting. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/7609e8750b1d2fd13d74553b66225e39.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/0ae1ee8c6e146cba373351ab239ef3ab.jpg

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[Helirich]

I found my old post where I used a non tapered thread fitting. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/7609e8750b1d2fd13d74553b66225e39.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240524/0ae1ee8c6e146cba373351ab239ef3ab.jpg

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So do you remember what you did?

[SupercoolBill]

So do you remember what you did?Yeah I put a rubber oring in between. I'd say that the pressure was too much for it.

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[Helirich]

Yeah I put a rubber oring in between. I'd say that the pressure was too much for it.

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I like the stainless fitting, but I would test under pressure what ever you do.

[SupercoolBill]

I like the stainless fitting, but I would test under pressure what ever you do.Yeah it leaked bad

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam signed us up for a trail race with some friends of ours. It was a rough one...I walked the hills quite a bit. I got it done though. I didn't realize how far 25km was.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/25bf2a939be57b8ffdebe38b68d208eb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/5a29330ac3c8d9cac9573bfa4d7a72ae.jpg
We were going to work on the car after the race but I fell asleep and ended up sleeping for 15 hours.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/42cf3b8ec7e4936dcb238571aaf0cc5d.jpg

We didn't work on it yesterday (Sunday) because we had a family BBQ.
We worked in it today (Memorial day) from 1-8.

We started by carefully jacking the car up (using blocking on the frame). I made up some makeshift stoppers to ensure that the car wouldn't roll off the blocks.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/16106281c1d1f69665a576068da8ce91.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/0d64ea1d5dcf11adec20b4eef6c49897.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/78c626a36700a00194158991dad68647.jpg

I didn't get a picture but I laid cinder blocks down, put the pieces of 2x10s on the cinder blocks, then lowered the car tires down onto the 2x10s.

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[SupercoolBill]

I opened the secret passageway in the tunnel inside the car. These fittings looked dry.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/1609d91ea7b2e75bc8790be6329236a6.jpg
It looked like the leaking was on one of the fittings connected to the end of the accumulator.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/8b68b4c8493e3b4d11e9e31b2bb19196.jpg

One of the fittings felt loose when I checked it. I was having zero luck snugging it down though. Working on a Delorean accumulator is the worst!
The accumulator felt surprisingly loose in the mount so I ended up removing the plate and installing thick foam on it. Even this simple task was a pain in the butt. You can't see what you're doing once you get your hands in there.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/6dc24c6c2ba737eccc4b31acdffe6ae2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/12ffb521740f62c29d5ed7be273e84a9.jpg
I tried like 10 wrenches trying to get in there to hold both sides of the fittings to tighten them down. This is the only combination I could get to work.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/2145016ab8b472825ac4f4d2d42e1837.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam installed the battery cables through the tub then worked on removing the carpets from inside the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/9f06c6e721250cc1089dd9668e9fd8dc.jpg
I used a spare negative cable to make up a ground wire to go from the trailing arm mount bracket bolt to the transmission. I know this is redundant but I figure it can't hurt.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/1844eb8c39f1606d7464e07980174086.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/e27c7faa382cc50cf72d7https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/0e6cc544468a0cd24dfe979ef844d4f8.jpgc1f0fc6ac50.jp g
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/1c849170efbef687798a2fc505217bef.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Wrestled the wires in to place and put a longer bolt through them into the frame.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/f22eb9c2f32b7e7249057cdfb15742d5.jpg
I have heard that it is recommended to install a nut on the back side. So I put a nut in there. Easier said than done.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/e7a579f821823de90caf44357b05217c.jpg
I grabbed a short bolt and lockwasher and attached my new ground jumper onto to transmission. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/e72c70617ef936397b090056ae57d106.jpg
I installed a missing clip onto the transmission to hold the brake cable.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/2a049b324e8a82f8c09eee58ea7d8e2c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I found that I had missed attaching the ground wire on the alternator so I hooked that up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/a3bb06191b415795e9496edeb825cc3f.jpg
Tam was busy working in cleaning and disinfecting the interior.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/5219bd8fc867b35146fce52dffaac3a2.jpg
Next I ran the positive cables to the starter. What a horrible pain in the butt!! For an frustrating hour I tried to get the battery cable onto the starter. I found a #4 cable in my shop and was going to use it to make my own battery cable. I asked Tam to help me one last time. We managed to get it finally. Getting these wires on to starter was torturous. I need a car lift. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/aeea23e98a4e5097f13c7d305b7d780d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I hooked up the starter control wire and routed the wire.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/83ee95253d4fac0382440cda8cfb1e3c.jpg
Tam had removed most of the carpets and cleaned them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/68a9ddb95e6586128b48fd8aae80378f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/b1727bc6d09834253c1ebcc0bdb9f97e.jpg

She had removed the amplifier a previous owner had installed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/91ee1cc090bb96f13505098de3339417.jpg
It turns out the wires at the amp were hacked off by someone.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/a8b379f65ed899f0c0cd2bd04f620f4e.jpg

Last thing we did was install some sound deadener on the back wall.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240528/0e8a42c6c5c4775238ad982fc50ca09d.jpg

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[Timeless]

When i installed sound deadener on the firewall I also removed the 40+ year old horizontal padding that had a terrible smell. I installed more self-adhesive sound deadener and plan to install a layer of Luxury Liner on top of that - the the carpet.

[SupercoolBill]

When i installed sound deadener on the firewall I also removed the 40+ year old horizontal padding that had a terrible smell. I installed more self-adhesive sound deadener and plan to install a layer of Luxury Liner on top of that - the the carpet.Yeah this stuff smells awful and the black rubber is all sticky

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[SupercoolBill]

Some parts Josh shipped for free showed up yesterday. I thought this was really great of him. Now before you go and think he's going to send stuff to you for free we have spent a LOT of money with D-Ind over the past 2 years.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/6f1698ef02f71ab491203581d958b778.jpg
This is the new fitting for the inlet of the fuel filter that Josh sent. It's a very unique fitting. Not sure where he managed to find something like this.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/11137887aad6390fdef64a37fe7f63ef.jpg

We worked on the car for around four hours.

I removed the leaking fitting. The oring was toast.
Sorry no picture.

The pipe ended up being too long with the new fitting.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/9c92121727316a107019ffa940dde358.jpg

Meanwhile Tam continued removing carpet and cleaning it even though I told her not to do that part yet.[emoji849] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/9a1e341c34e36d1375a54a441ff8cd77.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

I marked and cut back the pipe. I was really hoping that I wasn't making a mistake here since the pipes run between the body and the frame. After the first cut the pipe was still a bit too long, even after loosening the mounting bracket, so I cut the pipe again. A slow process for sure.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/4e7615facdf06d6f1e223c10319e0cf6.jpg
Josh advised me to dress up the end of the pipe after so I used a dremel tool with a sanding drum to tidy up the end.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/dcaaa41ddb4fc2f3a6b64cf757ad737e.jpg
I put the fitting together and tightened it down. I sent power to the fuel pump. The fitting leaked like a sieve.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/140e67799f20306739b10317e9a9c491.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I tightened the fitting down as much as I dared to and it seemed to stop leaking but the banjo fitting on top was weeping. So I took it apart. The banjo bolt was old. I had some new ones but they were shorter so I didn't dare to swap it out.

I did replace the copper sealing washers though and snugged the bolt down really good. I put power to the pump again. The fuel filter seemed to be okay now. Next up the fuel accumulator leak.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/b8f602569bacd5152d5034bae260c408.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I didn't get pictures but this was the culprit. What a pain!! There is no room in there for wrenches, you can't see what you are doing,....it's miserable.
I tried tightening it several times but no matter what it leaked.
I am wondering if maybe the nut I bought is too tall and bottoming out before the fitting fully seats.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/4d15075d286ef14af9b2ad854dfd44dc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/63b72a3191d1c8fde3782b5080c175a7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/16a9c096f7880264d92de8441152978e.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The last thing we did is install the "pipe of pain" and the idle air control valve. Wow...another pain in the butt job. Having the new seal installed made installing the pipe nearly impossible. I took everything in me to manage to get the pipe pushed in far enough.
It kills me how there is so much crap shoved into the left side of this engine (ac pump, IAC, spark distributor, cold start valve, WUR, etc) but hardly ANYTHING on the right side!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/0d4416672096d7ce4241fe3dd4954be4.jpg

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[Delorean Industries]

I tightened the fitting down as much as I dared to and it seemed to stop leaking but the banjo fitting on top was weeping. So I took it apart. The banjo bolt was old. I had some new ones but they were shorter so I didn't dare to swap it out.

I did replace the copper sealing washers though and snugged the bolt down really good. I put power to the pump again. The fuel filter seemed to be okay now. Next up the fuel accumulator leak.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/b8f602569bacd5152d5034bae260c408.jpg

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Not sure if you had asked about this in our private technical thread, but we supply the shorter banjo for use with our line kit. The factory end at the fuel filter is bulky on the plastic line. You are bottoming out the longer M12. Just swap out for the one on the right and you will be good to go.

[AugustneverEnds]

The last thing we did is install the "pipe of pain" and the idle air control valve. Wow...another pain in the butt job. Having the new seal installed made installing the pipe nearly impossible. I took everything in me to manage to get the pipe pushed in far enough.
It kills me how there is so much crap shoved into the left side of this engine (ac pump, IAC, spark distributor, cold start valve, WUR, etc) but hardly ANYTHING on the right side!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240530/0d4416672096d7ce4241fe3dd4954be4.jpg

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Lotus designed it like that for optimum weight distribution :rofl:

[SupercoolBill]

Not sure if you had asked about this in our private technical thread, but we supply the shorter banjo for use with our line kit. The factory end at the fuel filter is bulky on the plastic line. You are bottoming out the longer M12. Just swap out for the one on the right and you will be good to go.Yeah you answered this for me. I'm just writing history at this point. I'm behind on my log entries. [emoji1]

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam's leather reconditioning kit showed up so she is all excited. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240531/31720c0be18289bf8955df252bff3239.jpg
It looks like the gray is a pretty good match.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240531/79210519d0feaa788084143cb0dcc90f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

No work on the car tonight because I visit inmates in jail on Friday nights. This is something I thoroughly enjoy. I would encourage anyone to volunteer to do this.

We are in RI for a race this weekend so probably no work getting done on the car until maybe Monday.

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[Helirich]

No work on the car tonight because I visit inmates in jail on Friday nights. This is something I thoroughly enjoy. I would encourage anyone to volunteer to do this.

We are in RI for a race this weekend so probably no work getting done on the car until maybe Monday.

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Visit them and do what? Serious question.

[SupercoolBill]

Visit them and do what? Serious question.It's through my church. So supposed to be a Bible study but it turns into whatever it is supposed to be. I bring them books, journals, etc. They are really happy just to talk to someone from the outside. If they want to make a change in thier life we try to help them with that.

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[Helirich]

It's through my church. So supposed to be a Bible study but it turns into whatever it is supposed to be. I bring them books, journals, etc. They are really happy just to talk to someone from the outside. If they want to make a change in thier life we try to help them with that.

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Interesting. Very good of you to do it.

[SupercoolBill]

We are back from RI. My wife and her friend ran a 10 mile race. We visited the Newport car museum on the way home. Quite a collection. Sadly no Deloreans though. Here's a few of the pictures I took.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/e44eab2ff562d40575a29ab01bb59a26.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/9df76c8d87eec18bcfc4186619135d8b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/1ca06a491bbcbab7ce399ba6ee6b0240.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/f1329d03273718c5450d02959fc35eae.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/3307a4f20cf47b97f18773dc1ff43f31.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/d8f968df34a811d0f9f6a065e830a9d0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car tonight from 5-8P. Tam worked on one of the seats.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/0500a4867b1cff91ed68a08336e50009.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/c98c5e670a2f2bfdfa4315f90dc85de0.jpg

I scoped out the situation with my O2 sensor and the factory wire. The wire pokes out through in a bad location. The O2 sensor wire didn't quite reach.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/95863807426e6c28d23cbdd2ce42b892.jpg
Josh from D-Ind said that I can just extend the O2 sensor wire. I decided to look in the car. There was some extra wire in the car so I moved more wiring out through the tub.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/b6396a7765e7ed7a8fb5c2afc1e684a1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/39353c0691a814c5b60bf4b545a30feb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/1f25990f05424a3aa40686b10ca8acbd.jpg
I really don't like where this wire comes out through the tub. I may drill a new hole at some pont.


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[SupercoolBill]

Next I jumped back into the fuel system. I ended up just completely removing the accumulator. Horrible job by the way.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/7b4328597f4e9d1482b219d3a2655646.jpg
The fittings on the end looked perfectly fine.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/230e7f522feaf2130e64b76f7a8ad96a.jpg
I put some anti-sieze on the threads and tightened the fitting down as tight as i dared to.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/d8370c3995d7849527ff3ae3ee2a9134.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/fdec3f49ea2ca9330183adecc763d88d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/1afe0c923567312b35f4f5b95f1881f0.jpg

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[82DMC12]

I coated all my fuel threads with hylomar AF.

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[SupercoolBill]

While I was doing fuel stuff I decided to replace the fuel filter banjo bolt and copper washers.
Josh said it is fine that the new bolt is shorter. In fact that it is supposed to be.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/b9eeff6a1d9249118936619fab555151.jpg
You can see here that the stick bolt is actually a bit too long.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/ecd8d46090f9bdd9fac4ba22231a211f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/831c3e440ce778252be15cee3e528bea.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I put the accumulator back in and hooked everything back up. Pressurized the system, had a couple slow leaks that I fixed by snugging down a bit more. You have to get creative for some I'd these. Unfortunately that one same fitting still has a slow leak. So frustrating!!! I'm about ready to weld an adapter onto the accumulator.
I realized I was missing the back up nut on the shifter linkage so I took care of that.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/1845fdaff1c40b61f1a037a90ea03ee3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240604/05563f67ccba7ee6092b2efb7dc867fa.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I coated all my fuel threads with hylomar AF.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using TapatalkYeah thought of that but that would be kind of like treating the symptoms not the issue. For some reason that tapered connection keeps leaking.

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[82DMC12]

By the way, make sure you use some kind of a lock washer, like a star washer on the M8 nut that holds the shift bell crank to the frame bracket near the accumulator. I can see it in the pictures. You should also use loctite on the bolt that runs through the bell crank, through the frame, and into that nut. That is a very common break-down issue. The nut loosens up so the pivoting of the bell crank starts to unwind the bolt until the bolt unscrews all the way and now you can't shift.

[SupercoolBill]

By the way, make sure you use some kind of a lock washer, like a star washer on the M8 nut that holds the shift bell crank to the frame bracket near the accumulator. I can see it in the pictures. You should also use loctite on the bolt that runs through the bell crank, through the frame, and into that nut. That is a very common break-down issue. The nut loosens up so the pivoting of the bell crank starts to unwind the bolt until the bolt unscrews all the way and now you can't shift.I'm quite sure I put thread lock on the bolt when I put it in. I'll use a star washer or thread locker on the nut also.

It's actually kind of funny to think about the bolt unthreading while someone is just driving around without a care in the world.
Probably not that funny when it's you that it is happening to.

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[82DMC12]

That bolt is the only reason I have ever had to have my car towed.... Twice in 24 years. Learned my lesson.

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[SupercoolBill]

Today I ordered a new fir tree fitting and nut for it. We will see if that fixes it. I am dreading removing the accumulator again.

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[SupercoolBill]

Today after work I put a communication unit on my motorcycle helmet then we worked on the D from 5-8.
We worked on the clutch master cylinder. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/a64d4f380a6340623f15d95494a69de6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/1202f0180e6e56d2d49f8bd10bc165db.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/d071121ec6c83457caa8698f58e7ed9b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/9a66421a8065fdcd52e26901cc09e283.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/2f9b821449613377ae5ce6d976d5fccc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/58378a432d41838687ae211cdf845593.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/b9228373cef3c747877bc6e7cfa9043b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

With everything cleaned and lubed up I put the plunger back in. That's when we noticed the rubber dirt seal was ripped.
I checked on DMCH and D-go and neither one lists it. I may have to make something or try Delorean EU.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/466edaed45111d8fdcdce37900e49980.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/3edb17363de1eb39c35a1f454342c817.jpg

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[Mark D]

With everything cleaned and lubed up I put the plunger back in. That's when we noticed the rubber dirt seal was ripped.
I checked on DMCH and D-go and neither one lists it. I may have to make something or try Delorean EU.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/466edaed45111d8fdcdce37900e49980.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240606/3edb17363de1eb39c35a1f454342c817.jpg

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The inside of my clutch master looked similar to yours when I refreshed a bunch of stuff on my car back in 2012. I decided to just go with a completely new master cylinder from DMCH.

That being said, I'm a hoarder so I saved the original master cylinder. I'll check and see if that seal is still intact and you can have it for free if it's still in good shape.

[SupercoolBill]

The inside of my clutch master looked similar to yours when I refreshed a bunch of stuff on my car back in 2012. I decided to just go with a completely new master cylinder from DMCH.

That being said, I'm a hoarder so I saved the original master cylinder. I'll check and see if that seal is still intact and you can have it for free if it's still in good shape.Yeah I usually just go new rather than waste my time on things like this. I think my worry with the DMCH one is that it would be NOS so the seals would be dried up and if they used brake fluid to assemble it it would be gross and corroded inside.

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[bueller]

I think my worry with the DMCH one is that it would be NOS so the seals would be dried up and if they used brake fluid to assemble it it would be gross and corroded inside.

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After having a bad experience with a new clutch master from DGo, I turned to Houston and found out they reproduced their offering so all new. Worked perfect in my car for the last couple of years.

[SupercoolBill]

After having a bad experience with a new clutch master from DGo, I turned to Houston and found out they reproduced their offering so all new. Worked perfect in my car for the last couple of years.Oh so it is a whole new unit then?

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[bueller]

Yes! For some reason, my phone isn't letting me paste links but if you search their site, you'll see the info about being a reproduction part.

[SupercoolBill]

More parts showed up Thursday.
Had to spend enough to get the free shipping but was really just after the fitting for the accumulator right now.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240608/202905373d9bde3aff3c7acf21809528.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240608/48ac1d77433db069eb813416211667e5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 1P-7P.
Tam gave the carpets another wash while I got prepare to remove the accumulator a-gain.
I used this project as an excuse to buy more tools. I struggled to spend the money for these special wrenched but they did end up being really great for working on the accumulator. They were $30something on sale. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240608/bbc830d421dc0d5fb4a33b13b4b77640.jpg

The accumulator had a lot of fuel in it this time and made a mess and my whole arm got soaked...fun.[emoji19]

When I did manage to get it out I looked more closely at the nut. It was close to being bottomed out but didn't seem to be.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240608/0f54c73e3601e966a86b1a668e8d9b4d.jpg
I removed the nut and barbed fitting.
I inspected the female connections. They looked perfectly fine [emoji108].
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240608/b5755ebff07afb85a332f5dedf52a87c.jpg
I put the nut on without the barbed fitting. It looks like it did still have more to go.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/79de98d9bc99bd699530f97e23ac7c61.jpg
The new nut was larger in the middle and the barbed fitting was a larger ID also.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/59b2b96bf0a52cb4ec547f155575de94.jpg


So I decided to just use the new nut with the new barbed fitting.
Just for added insurance I put some fuel proof sealant on the face on the barbed fitting.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/272bd733198d9ce59101426de5f218e8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/02de6a78c7194ddb2d001ddd387cbbda.jpg
I tightened the nut as much as I dared to which ended up being around 18 ft-lbs.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/7de9ca613e6a31d711fd39c421e4679f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I wasn't falling for the same trick this time. This time I rigged up a pressure test.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/f88d766b9bbb90ec936809110317cf8a.jpg
No bubbles
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/531a462518ffccf725cbf192b5af2684.jpg
I did a standing pressure test. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/1f8ae8f66f3b776b3a5031ad66710dfb.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Accumulator going back in. I've found the best way to do is is to first connect the rubber hose on the front, next install the cradle with the bolts all very loose, set the accumulator up in the bracket, tighten down the cradle while making sure you have the accumulator positioned correctly. Then connect the 90 on the front and the rubber hose on the back.

One thing that was a lot more difficult this time was getting the rubber hose onto the new barbed fitting because the O.D. was now larger.
If I ever have to remove the accumulator a-gain, I will have to cut that hose to get it off.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/7680e397858e01013b0e0018c116999f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/63c470830d5f36f7c930ed2e076fc84d.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

While I was working on the accumulator Tam was yelling a lot...I mean installing the coolant tank and connecting the heater core hoses.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/b2aad7d1b5cfae2ff21a8e5b85694fe0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/2950ccdf33ea94efb46ccdfbddfb6cc5.jpg
After she got everything hooked up I had her pump up the system to 15#. It was slowly loosing pressure. She found the heater core connections leaking a bit. I told her to try tightening the clamps with a 1/4" ratchet with a socket rather than the really long narrow flat screwdriver she was trying to use.
After she tightened that it held pressure and is still under pressure.

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[SupercoolBill]

I sent 12 volts to the fuel pump and ran it until we built pressure. So far NO LEAKS!![emoji2]
The coolant system under pressure with pur new HF test kit.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/5710b13ef370d675636c8f59595a951c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/12ce6ba3882c58e66be84ff3d0cb8c11.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The last thing we did before spending some time cleaning up and putting tools away was install the throttle spool assembly.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/4a52895bee22aa66ed73d5977fd12e05.jpg
This is a fun little job. You need to make adjustments to the throttle linkage rod and the full throttle microswitch. From what I can tell you basically want the throttle spool to rest against its stopper at idle. The idle switch need to be fully switched but not bottomed out and similar for the full throttle switch...at full throttle of course.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/53685bfab3620729df1611ee50db1618.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240609/b472c3bf1d6c0cd99a5ad5a45609161e.jpg
Tightening the tiny bolts on the full throttle microswitch had to be done with needlenose pliers because I didn't own a wrench small enough to fit the bolts. They are smaller than 5mm.

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 5p-8p tonight. Mondays are always rough days for us owning a small business. It's hard to not just go home, veg out, and drink something with alcohol in it. But we managed to make the transition.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/f60c30dbcb4a05da1a7b38a801ca1a73.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We have been running the fuel pump by running it directly off the battery and wondering why things in the fuel system aren't doing what they should be. I decided to stop going this route and instead get more of the car together so we can power up the fuel pump through the wiring in the car.
Tonight we focused on the front harness for the fuel pump, horns, radiator fans, etc.
The harness was in decent shape but needed some repairs, clean up, and delphi weatherpack connectors installed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/3838221d2ddb925c5bd5910924cfdc9b.jpg
Plug connector looked pretty good.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/d0e5a043d09447b3df62bf2857445c88.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I observed which colored wires went where on the new fuel level sending unit, read the installation instructions, and made sure I was going to have the right colors in the right spots.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/73a8fc596769e513ee06cbb871696ef3.jpg
I striped the wires back and of course the wires were black so I cleaned up the copper with sandcloth.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/37b0b66580b007efa9a36811afbcd17c.jpg
The first crimp I did came up all screwed up. I was pretty upset because I didn't think I had any spare connector inserts but it turned out I had four extras due to Josh sending me both halves of the weatherpack connectors for our new radiator fans. The next connector worked but not without a fight.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/2284a75554d605cdeb865ceac38c9957.jpg
I was using the most recent crimpers I had bought online.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/e0b8b6b643d7ed5867dda95471ec9dee.jpg
I ruined the next connector I tried to install. I couldn't seem to get these to work right. So frustrating but I was glad to have spares. I went back to another set of crimpers and got some perfect crimps which was rewarding.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/783982cf31f68dc78764d0ff9b396227.jpg
So that connector was done. You can see the mouse chewed through ground wire. I'll get to that later.
While I was doing this stuff Tam was cleaning the other end of the harness and re-wrapping it.

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[SupercoolBill]

I decided to just clean up this ground connection rather than replace it. I admire the fact that they actually soldered these big ones onto the wires.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/4597e64c4ae9deaa56fd8629caa5621e.jpg
I replaced the chewed up ground wire.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/119328c75287b49b27f59418e593503b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/8de6426e2f68205a9d198ef81d80e4a3.jpg
I cut off the horn connectors and installed new heat shrink connectors.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/cc947af9da059985a587ca8fc114c56a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next I looked at the rad fans on the car to see which way the wires go. One side was black and the other blue. I didn't have a blue on the harness but I did have a black so I assumed that the blacks where the negative/ground wire.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/ece92ca21fb819202c20d62ec583630a.jpg
On the harness end there is two wires under each connection point in the plug. That wasn't going to happen with these tiny connections so I found some #14 black and #14 blue wire to use.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/1e917ae838a5f9d8d5aba44238703f14.jpg
I used these connectors to go from a #16 and a #18 to one #14. It worked slick. I love these connectors.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/a342497640fc71c8f9f757b0fa862bd5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/baaab8c2b6e60038ef46c0adde897b47.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/43ab43ff60ad862f60ab54e5e6a156af.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/e468303d5e372825a6b11d8021a37db3.jpg
One done!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/18ad9da67e34ae23dda8c4ad46ebefff.jpg



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[SupercoolBill]

The finished product ready to go back in the car.
Does anyone know what the long ground wire that exits the harness near the fuel pump actually goes to? I obviously I know it goes to ground but where? Why is it so long?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240611/f31f79b6ee4183099b18851227058a9a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tonight we worked on the car from 4-7P. I started with trying to install the front wiring harness...the one that goes to the horns, fuel pump, etc.
I wanted to make sure I routed it correctly, grounds in the right places, etc. So I looked through my pictures from when we took the car apart. Then I remembered that I didn't know that the front harness unplugged from the main harness so I had unplugged it from each individual connection and unscrewed every ground then yanked it out before removing my frame so I have no good pics of the routing, ground locations, clip locations etc.
I did plug in the fuel pump and fuel level plugs.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/006493c5d7c1bdedb7ebb8cb628ab37a.jpg
And the radiator fans
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/0c732a1fb4b362f70b4257b42263fbd0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam was messing around with the coolant system again because it lost pressure since yesterday. I told her that it is probably good enough to add coolant. It's only dropping like 1 psi per hour.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/e5e831dffa0863e8dd3da1aee31ba1e2.jpg
This is a good before picture of the coolant tank area.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/0ba6213ea01b9ad9b27f1c50f02f31c5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We decided it was time to finally bolt the body to the frame. We put the four vertical bolts in first and left them loose.
Next we installed the two horizontal bolts in the pontoons. I vaguely remembered there being spacer between the body and the frame so I found some washers to put in there. It was quite a pain to get them in there and the bolt laced through them. We put two washers on each side.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/cb97804f216d208a9ecb0014209f55f9.jpg
I had heard that washers need to be put between the tunnel and the frame so I rolled under the car. [emoji38] [emoji23] [emoji38] [emoji23] yeah riiight. I don't see how anyone is getting washers up in there then getting a bolt through them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/b8ec43474b8b86bcf73a74a4b130f0ec.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/18f8b6e3859d89339f8f6e0fecdc346d.jpg
So yeah...we didn't do that part.
One of the inside washers was missing so I found a washer that was a good match on I.D., O.D., and thickness.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/7f9fdd988a5c34e4367218c62f2cb18a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/f23a2a3c10429d3c283f1c4896df6551.jpg
I decided to use a fender washer over that washer on this one. Q
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240612/fff343f0294496d2d2964fc8ba22b977.jpg
We torqued, the bolts that we could get a torque wrench on, down to 25 ft-lbs. The one in the right pontoon I just went wicked tight on.
One thing that really annoys me with the body mounts is how loosely the square nuts fit in the cages. I was going to make my own nuts out of bar stock but I never got around to doing it.

If anyone has a good picture or pictures of the front of the frame with the harness in place please send it my way.

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[MrMac4800]

The finished product ready to go back in the car.
Does anyone know what the long ground wire that exits the harness near the fuel pump actually goes to? I obviously I know it goes to ground but where? Why is it so long?
The very long single ground wire should go to the Fuel Filler Neck.
It gets screwed onto one of the three screws that hold the Fuel Filler Neck in place.

Very detailed report btw.
I really appreciate the effort!

[SupercoolBill]

The very long single ground wire should go to the Fuel Filler Neck.
It gets screwed onto one of the three screws that hold the Fuel Filler Neck in place.

Very detailed report btw.
I really appreciate the effort!Thanks [emoji4]

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[SupercoolBill]

As everyone knows by now when it comes to buying parts I like to spread the love. I have bought from DMW, DNW, DMCH,and I have bought a LOT from D-Ind.
This most recent order was from DMCH.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240614/a9f405d2dc56bd65f4e7644e47725ad8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240614/f903a1035d2831f86824cd0f2b6faa96.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240614/064cfe7d963338c0d0eff0cae72831cb.jpg


Each vendor has thier pros and cons. I will say that DMCH is the best for installation instructions.
I mean this is a rubber hose....look at the detailed instructions on how to install a hose!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240614/2f2cf04582d048570740e6ac72d2c73e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240614/1f84fda28437765f84ceb54dd497c1e5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Last night it was too nice out to work on the car. We took the Miata to our friends house for dinner and drinks.
Two old people in a convertible lol. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240614/8412f78e3aa87f480c5b2b68278f55ed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240614/f66b73450b2463548e0a144a9913ea56.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240614/6fd58a19005193f61bbf3c76ce34e2a9.jpg

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[Helirich]

Havnt you heard, ?Old guys rule?.

[Carbuilder]

I bought a Delorean (my first one) and it was delivered today. I have read this whole thread over the weeks waiting for my car to be shipped to me. It is amazing the work you 2 are doing. This is also a great resource for anyone doing any sort of repairs or maintenance in the future.

Thank you very much for all the detail you are putting into this thread.

Rick
1983, 5-spd, grey interior

[SupercoolBill]

I bought a Delorean (my first one) and it was delivered today. I have read this whole thread over the weeks waiting for my car to be shipped to me. It is amazing the work you 2 are doing. This is also a great resource for anyone doing any sort of repairs or maintenance in the future.

Thank you very much for all the detail you are putting into this thread.

Rick
1983, 5-spd, grey interiorRick this makes my happy. Lots of what not to doisms too haha!
Be sure to post pics when you get yours.

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car last night for 4 hours and tonight for about the same amount of time.
Yesterday we started with replacing one of the gas filler tube bolts with a longer bolt so we could install the ground wire with a lock nut underneath.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/3c427a4b876ed8e98050aa2e26a81a69.jpg
I was not pleased with the plastic washer that I got from DMCH. The I.D. was too large, it was thicker, and had molding pocks in it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/9a94b4dea2d4a6b2b8928fa83a9de84e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/c599250da15cbd2a3c4f7b19bbcb929e.jpg
I ended up finding a sealing washer in my shop stock that seemed to fit much better. We threw some Hylomar on the threads just for shitz.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/091d81515a7a8ec14204b794fa38f011.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/584868facef17bbc643e0a088519c4eb.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

Tam removed the clutch fluid bottle, cleaned it, and replaced the hose with the new hose from DMCH. This hose wasn't just any hose. It is actually kink proof. Pretty cool. She couldn't help but clean up and paint the bottle mounting strap.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/5e90f50a140ae2b3dddc739578aca2b9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/d4cffcad85315bf0730c5837e1f19c42.jpg
She also painted the steering shaft.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/cbf4c7b7f3f67f186e4f8640479b5475.jpg
While I was in there I decided to check the vent valve. Toot toot!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/a5ed29b2978062baf52e332e099718dc.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I bolted up the vent valve with some nice CAD plated Allen bolts that I had in the shop.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240619/198f0cef5998af02740f9845b20462ba.jpg
We discovered that we are missing the fitting for connecting to the clutch mc. I'm pretty sure that it never came with my new clutch line.
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I put a post on the FB Delorean technical page. In the meantime, I also messaged Josh at Delorean Industries.
Tam was really upset. To her, it seems like this has happened 100 times during this project. She thinks that every part should come as a complete kit with every part included as well as installation instructions with pictures. In a perfect world.....
Before we left for the night I remembered that I still had the D-go clutch line kit. I found it and was happy to see that it had an adapter on it.
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I tested the adapter in the old MC. It fit perfectly.
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Next I tried it in the clutch line connection. It fit but....I didn't like how it fit. The threaded connection was really sloppy for some reason. Also the taper didn't seem quite right. Hmmm..
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[SupercoolBill]

Before we left we installed the clutch MC through the body. Quite a pain in the butt. I replaced the Philips bolts with some nice Allen head bolts.
The clevis for the clutch mc was kind if weird. There was room to fit the washer in between the clutch arm and the clevis. Yet the picture in the manual showed the washer on the outside of the assembly. So against my better judgment I squeezed the clevis together enough for the washer to fit on the outside.
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[SupercoolBill]

Today I ran to the hydraulic hose shop to see what they had for a fitting. I really got the feeling that the D-go part was the right part but maybe the tolerances were off. I brought the D-go hose and fitting to the store with me. They quickly found the correct fitting...which was basically thier version of the same fitting. Well...what do you know? It fit better onto the connection on the clutch line. BINGO!! They really stuck it to me charging me $18.00 for the one fitting but I gladly paid it.
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[SupercoolBill]

We went to install the brake master and came to the conclusion that it can't be installed with the clutch mc fully installed....fun.[emoji34]
I've been dreading installing the brake mc. Sure enough it was a horrible experience. I felt like I was some POW being tortured or something.
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I really hate that bar made into the tub where the seat goes. Eventually I got all of the washers and lock nuts on and tight. Then we put the clutch mc back in place. I played around with the hose routing to the mc. I wanted to make sure that the steering shaft wasn't going to rub on the hose.
I started with it running this way but it left it right in the path of the steering shaft.
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I ended up swooping around and coming in from the passenger side of the car.

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[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car tonight after work from 4-7. It was a scorcher today in the 90s with a "feels like" over over 100. We were happy to be in the shop vs. Outside. Not that we have ac but it is cooler than outside.
We started with sending brake fluid through the clutch system. Not too many pictures taken of this. I was too cheap to buy a remote bleeder but an hour into wrestling with the slave bleeder screw I would have gladly paid $200 to have a remote bleeder.
We had to use a wire to pull the heater hose up off from the slave cylendar.
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Tam pumping up the clutch hydraulics.
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[SupercoolBill]

With the clutch system bled and no leaks so far we tried shifting though the gears which went well.
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[SupercoolBill]

Next we put a battery in the car and turned the key on for the first time in over 20 years. I jumped out the RPM relay and the fuel pump came on.
We ran it quite a while and it wasn't building pressure. I tried to double check the wiring but my colors on the harness end didn't match what the instructions for the fuel pump said the colors should be.
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I managed to figure out which wire was supposed be positive and negative so I checked the wires with a meter. It tested out as being wired correctly.
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[SupercoolBill]

So...maybe the fuel supply check valve is installed backwards. So I wrestled out the line. We looked for a direction of flow arrow but found none.
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Tam said "Could it be too low on gas?" I said "No, I dumped a lot of gas in the tank." She insisted we need more gas so I said whatever and dumped more gas in the tank. We hooked the battery back up. Within seconds we heard fuel moving then eventually the fuel pressure went way up.
She was right... [emoji849]
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[SupercoolBill]

We had one injector pulled and in a bottle. It was spraying fuel. I checked the mixing assembly disk and it went down with no resistance. The fuel distributor piston was not dropping down out of the F.D.
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So we pulled a couple lines off the F.D., of course gas went everywhere,..unbolted the F.D., tipped it up, and tried to free up the piston. No luck...
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So we ended up taking all of the hoses off and brought the F.D. over to the bench vise.
I tried and tried but couldn't get the piston to budge.
We thought that today was the day that we were going to hear the engine try to start but unfortunately that was not to be so.
I felt bad for Tam. She was really upset and started to cry. Now you have to understand my wife does cry...ever. She purposely watches tear jerker movies, doesn't cry, and makes fun of me if I have one tear. Her dad is a Marine..not just a Marine but a purple heart Vietnam vet. So she's a tough girl. But this car has really taken a toll on both of us.
Well,...we left the fuel distributor soaking. Hopefully it will free up. [emoji1696]
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[Helirich]

When I got my car, the piston was stuck. I have a smooth jaw pliers that I grabbed it and was able to free it. But it took way more force than I wanted to do it. If the pliers didn?t have smooth jaws, it would have marked it. If the oil doesn?t do the trick, you might try some kind of heat.

[SupercoolBill]

Catching up on entries.
Yesterday during the day Tam went to the cell phone store with me broken Samsung Z-Fold phone. It was a really cool phone that could be used as a small tablet when opened but there were some things that I didn't like about it for one the large inner screen doesn't do well with a screen saver but the screen is of course fragile. So I recently broke my second Z-Fold phone. And they are not cheap. So now my pictures and words will be from a Samsung S24 Ultra. It has a large, very square screen and is a lot thinner and lighter than my Z-Fold.
Enough about that...back to the car!!

Last night we worked on the car from 5P-10:30P. That is REALLY LATE for us old folks.


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[SupercoolBill]

So funny thing about that last post. It kept trying to put the whole second part in small text in italics because I originally said "sen from my_____"
Pretty weird.
So we started out last night trying to get the piston out if the fuel distributor we had purchased second hand. We heated it, tapped on it, yelled at it, sprayed,...nothin!
This thing is stuck solid!
I even tried drilling a hole in a block of wood, clamping the fuel distributor onto the block, then slamming it down on my work bench as hard as I could several time. Didn't budge. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240625/67ca3f0b7c3ab4f21c206d0433d5647e.jpg70689706907069 1

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[SupercoolBill]

At this point we were pretty discouraged. I decided to see if I could locate our original fuel distributor. We had a heck of a time trying to rebuild the original one and I could even remember for sure where things were at with it. I found it. The piston came out hard but did slide out. I put some light oil on it slid it back in and worked it in and out a few times.
We decided to give the old F.D. a shot. I decided that if we were going to try to use this questionable F.D. then we'd better pull all the injectors and do some flow measurements.
Not surprisingly removing the left side injectors was a pain especially the front one (#4?). And....gas spilled everywhere again.
We found enough ice tea bottles to use for the test.
70692
We ended up having no choice but to remove the Idle air valve. I may have said it before but I'll say it again...I HATE how this area of the engine is set up. It is so stupid. WAY too much crap in this one corner of the engine.
70693 We jumped out the RPM relay plug to run the fuel pump.
We first tested with nonpressure on the air disk. All injectors were dripping some so I backed off on our fuel mixture Allen screw. Until they just stopped dripping. 70694

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[SupercoolBill]

Next we tested the flow through each injector at 1/4 throttle. They came out looking all pretty equal. Okay cool!! 7069670697

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[SupercoolBill]

Next we emptied the bottles and went 3/4 throttle. This time one bottle looked different than the rest. Injector #3 bottle had less in it than the other five did.
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So we swapped injectors and tubes #2 & #3. We emptied the bottles and did the same test again. To my surprise the issue followed the injector and not the port on the F.D. cool! So maybe this old F.D. is g2g.
The injectors were all brand new 2.5 years ago. So we kept running fuel through doing the test and it got better. Niiiiice.
So I said "Well, I guess we try starting it." So that's what we did. The first thing that happened was a bunch of fuel came out if the exhaust. Not surprising since the other F.D. had a stuck piston in it so whenever we were running the fuel pump we were spraying a bunch of fuel down in the combustion chamber. Duh.....
We kept cranking...and then it happened...IT ACTUALLY STARTED AND RAN!!! Ran pretty darn good actually for nothing being adjusted yet. I noticed that the adjustment screws on the throttle assembly were not tightened in all the way so I did this. The car ran worse now. So I'm guessing that we are too rich.
We will play with the adjustments some more but for now we called it a night.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240626/7650da0dab3f50e4c41cf52d6f4bc272.jpg

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[AugustneverEnds]

Congratulations, it's alive!!! :woot:

Once that old French lump is running and gassing you with exhaust fumes it makes all of that frustration and damage to your hands, ego, and wallet worthwhile.

[SupercoolBill]

Congratulations, it's alive!!! :woot:

Once that old French lump is running and gassing you with exhaust fumes it makes all of that frustration and damage to your hands, ego, and wallet worthwhile.Yeah it was a pretty good feeling for sure.

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[SupercoolBill]

Here's the video. Sorry for the cringey background music. I had to do it [emoji16]
https://youtube.com/shorts/s0cT7iWk0Ow?si=O00gRX5gmaTJCLhp

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[SupercoolBill]

One thing I failed to mention is how many frustrating things happened that night. We had fuel leak after fuel leak. I'm not talking a drip either. I mean gushing out! We pulled all of the injectors which meant trying to get all of the little D-Ind injector retainers and screws taken apart and pulled out without dropping anything in the VOD...which of course ended up happening on the worst one...the front left corner. I have taken some mocking and ridiculing for filling in the VOD pits with JB Weld but it has already saved us several times when small pieces have fell down into the VOD we are usually able to fish them out pretty easily. [emoji41]
Putting the left front injector holder back in was nearly impossible.
If I was doing work on the heads for any reason and had these style retainers, I think I'd put a nice stainless steel compression spring under each injector tube. The spring would be a keeper to hold the bottom half of the injector retainer in place when removing and installing injectors. I ended up using a piece of vinyl tubing to hold the bottom half up.
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[JETS 81 DMC]

Here's the video. Sorry for the cringey background music. I had to do it [emoji16]
https://youtube.com/shorts/s0cT7iWk0Ow?si=O00gRX5gmaTJCLhp

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===>>> AWESOME & CONGRATULATIONS ! ! ! <<<===

A very long awaited reward for you and Tam. Both of your many long hours spent and work is finally paying off.

I appreciate all the time you take documenting and pictures. I have read every post from the start and continue to follow. I look forward daily for your posts.

I have learned quite a lot from your posts. Thank you

ABSOULUTELY THE PROPER MUSIC TOO !

Now you & Tam need to take some well deserved time and celebrate.
:thumbup: :cheers: :wrenchin:

[SupercoolBill]

===>>> AWESOME & CONGRATULATIONS ! ! ! <<<===

A very long awaited reward for you and Tam. Both of your many long hours spent and work is finally paying off.

I appreciate all the time you take documenting and pictures. I have read every post from the start and continue to follow. I look forward daily for your posts.

I have learned quite a lot from your posts. Thank you

ABSOULUTELY THE PROPER MUSIC TOO !

Now you & Tam need to take some well deserved time and celebrate.
[emoji106] :cheers: :wrenchin:Thanks so much. Good to know someone is reading along.
It makes for a long day when your day starts at 5A, work from 7:00-5P, work on the car until 8P or later, drive home, and then when I finally get home, post what we did which usually takes an hour or more.
But to me it's worth it if people are viewing it and getting something out of it. I just hope and pray that this forum never gets wiped out! [emoji51]All those hours of work gone! [emoji30]

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[Helirich]

A lot happened since I last checked. Loved the video.

I never realized you were not working on the car at your house. I have to say that would make it a much harder project. You two are very dedicated. Congratulations, and that big congratulations is coming soon.

[SupercoolBill]

A lot happened since I last checked. Loved the video.

I never realized you were not working on the car at your house. I have to say that would make it a much harder project. You two are very dedicated. Congratulations, and that big congratulations is coming soon.Yeah the car is in the shop at the HVAC business we own. We currently only have a tiny one car garage under in the basement at home. We also have a 20' shipping container at home but that would not be good to work out of.
Luckily the shop is only around 15-20 minutes from our house.
The car is back there.
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We really need to get it out if the shop but also need a bigger garage at the house.

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[ssdelorean]

Thanks so much. Good to know someone is reading along.
It makes for a long day when your day starts at 5A, work from 7:00-5P, work on the car until 8P or later, drive home, and then when I finally get home, post what we did which usually takes an hour or more.
But to me it's worth it if people are viewing it and getting something out of it. I just hope and pray that this forum never gets wiped out! [emoji51]All those hours of work gone! [emoji30]

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HUZZAH! and congrats. I am following along too but don't post much. I'm kinda totally opposite of you. I purchased a driver in 2003 at 51K and just drive it like crazy and only fix things that are about to break or that do break. Currently just over 258k miles. Your car is so clean. I tell the dirt on mine is a protective coating! :biggrin:

[SupercoolBill]

HUZZAH! and congrats. I am following along too but don't post much. I'm kinda totally opposite of you. I purchased a driver in 2003 at 51K and just drive it like crazy and only fix things that are about to break or that do break. Currently just over 258k miles. Your car is so clean. I tell the dirt on mine is a protective coating! [emoji3]258k?!?! Dang that's crazy! My last Tacoma had around that on it when I sold it.

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[bueller]

Thanks so much. Good to know someone is reading along.
It makes for a long day when your day starts at 5A, work from 7:00-5P, work on the car until 8P or later, drive home, and then when I finally get home, post what we did which usually takes an hour or more.
But to me it's worth it if people are viewing it and getting something out of it. I just hope and pray that this forum never gets wiped out! [emoji51]All those hours of work gone! [emoji30]

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Lots of us reading along!! Truly amazing to watch and an incredible resource. Thank you and congrats on the milestone!

[DMC-Ron]

Congratulation to both of you! That engine is immaculate. I imagine we only see a small glimpse of the work you actually put in, not only to do the car refurbish, but also bring us along with your posts. I've enjoyed being included in your journey. I've been worried and concerned with the frustrations recently expressed. But now you are clearly on the home stretch and I am so happy for you. Once you get your car on the road, you will be rewarded with the joy it brings to people that see it. Good work! I'm looking forward to your first drive video.
Ron

[Mark D]

Congrats on the first engine start! I've been following along too and enjoy the updates. We're all rooting for you guys :thumbup:

[SupercoolBill]

Congratulation to both of you! That engine is immaculate. I imagine we only see a small glimpse of the work you actually put in, not only to do the car refurbish, but also bring us along with your posts. I've enjoyed being included in your journey. I've been worried and concerned with the frustrations recently expressed. But now you are clearly on the home stretch and I am so happy for you. Once you get your car on the road, you will be rewarded with the joy it brings to people that see it. Good work! I'm looking forward to your first drive video.
RonThanks Ron.

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[SupercoolBill]

Congrats on the first engine start! I've been following along too and enjoy the updates. We're all rooting for you guys [emoji106]Thanks Mark I appreciate it.

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