1982 Frame Off Restoration

[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car after another long day at work. 4:30-7.
Checked my pressure test. It had dropped since last night. Dang. Even worse it didn't drop a lot. That means it is a very small leak.
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So I located some leak detector fluid and started looked for a leak.
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[SupercoolBill]

I found the leak. Why am I not surprised. The new replacement fitting from Josh (D-Ind) also has a leak....on the weld. It is smaller than the leak on the first one but still a leak nevertheless.
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I messaged Josh. He said the part was leak tested before sending it out and maybe I damaged it installing it. I am not really buying it. I am done playing this game. I am going to bring the original fitting to my buddy that does TIG welding so he can fix it.
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[SupercoolBill]

So I feel I need to share some information about life with Parkinsons Disease. PD. is caused by a loss of dopamine to the brain. Dopamine does a lot of things for you. People know about some of the issues lack of Dopamine cause: the Tremors, balance issues, coordination but it is so much more.
For example when it comes to working on the Delorean-
I don't ever "Feel like" working on the car anymore. I have to make myself work on it.
I can't remember where we left off or how things go back together. So I have to start over every time.
My left hand doesn't work right. I just plain can't do certain movements with it.
I can't do anything else while working on the car. It is too much at once.
My left shoulder, arm, hand is stiff and sore
I don't have a lot of patience anymore
If anything goes wrong I feel like giving up
I am tired and feel like going home and going to sleep.
I get overwhelmed if I think about the whole car and everything that needs to be done

So when something happens like this bad fitting it really knocks me down.
I have to remind myself how lucky I am to have the shop, the car, the money to do this project, my wife doing this with me, and my followers of the project online.

We put new door struts on before leaving for the night. Something quick and easy. The struts we had on there were just some struts off Ebay. They didn't hold the doors up very well. The new ones from D-Ind were way stronger. We kept the other ones incase we lighten the doors in the future.
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[Mark D]

Thanks for sharing your journey with us, both with this car and with your personal battle with Parkinson's. I can't imagine it's easy to be candid about the day-to-day struggles of PD, so I appreciate you explaining what it's like so we can all understand.

Following along with this thread is one of the few things that keeps me coming back to DMCTalk these days, so keep up the good work and hopefully you can see the light at the end of the tunnel and find joy in working on the car.

It sounds like you've got some good strategies for getting past the mental hurdles like with the A/C system by setting yourself up with some quick wins like fixing the door struts. That's a really good way to keep moving forward when it starts to feel overwhelming.

[SupercoolBill]

Thanks for sharing your journey with us, both with this car and with your personal battle with Parkinson's. I can't imagine it's easy to be candid about the day-to-day struggles of PD, so I appreciate you explaining what it's like so we can all understand.

Following along with this thread is one of the few things that keeps me coming back to DMCTalk these days, so keep up the good work and hopefully you can see the light at the end of the tunnel and find joy in working on the car.

It sounds like you've got some good strategies for getting past the mental hurdles like with the A/C system by setting yourself up with some quick wins like fixing the door struts. That's a really good way to keep moving forward when it starts to feel overwhelming.Thanks Mark I appreciate it.

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[Helirich]

I certainly hope you can continue. If not, I wonder if you can pay someone to finish the car. You?ve done such great work so far, you definitely need to drive it one day. I recall you working with inmates. Is there any chance you can employ their help? Just thinking out loud, if I were in prison, I sure would like working on something like this. I suppose the red tape would be too much.

My prayers and thoughts are with you.

[SupercoolBill]

I certainly hope you can continue. If not, I wonder if you can pay someone to finish the car. You?ve done such great work so far, you definitely need to drive it one day. I recall you working with inmates. Is there any chance you can employ their help? Just thinking out loud, if I were in prison, I sure would like working on something like this. I suppose the red tape would be too much.

My prayers and thoughts are with you.That's a cool idea but unfortunately they don't let them out until their time served is up. I'll get it finished. Just really difficult sometimes. I have a couple local buddies that are car guys that I may ask to help us.

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[SupercoolBill]

I picked up my fixed fitting. Looks good. Josh is saying that the o-rings are not reusable and i am not sure yet if I can get the bands off without damaging them but I figure it is worth a try at this point. If I reuse the bands and o-rings and it leaks I'm just out my time and effort.

Repaired fitting looks good to me.

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[SupercoolBill]

I found a video online and the guy using the fittings says that the same tool that is used to install the bands can also be used to remove them (without damaging them).
Josh says "The o-rings are one time use".
I know he is the expert but I am not really convinced that the o-rings cannot be reused if they are in good condition. So I am going to reuse the o-rings and the clamp bands. If it leaks then shame on me.

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[Carbuilder]

I have that proper tool and could never get it to work for removing the clamps. I cut them off with a cut-off tool. And I've reused the fittings, with the original O-rings and have never had a leak. Obviously if they look damaged they should be replaced, but I think it would take some effort to damage them.

Thank you for posting the info on PD. It is a remarkable job you are doing without that interfering. With it, I really admire your stick-to-it-iveness.

Rick

[SupercoolBill]

We went for a group run (I walked) in the morning then worked on the car. I would say around 6 hours total.
I removed the AC fitting again. I figured out how to use the pliers to release the band clamps so they could be reused.
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Tam swapped the o-rings onto the repaired fitting and replaced the green o-ring. We put some PAG oil on the o-rings, installed the fitting, I wrestled it up into position, and tightened the nut.
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[SupercoolBill]

I pressurized the system. And....we were slowly losing pressure. Such a small amount that had we not had issues in the past I would have just assumed the system was good.
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I figured I'd check the 90 just in case.
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Oh flipping word!!! Are you kidding me!! [emoji15] [emoji34] [emoji35] Leaking still!!
Note, in the picture it looks like it was leaking on the hose connector but it was not. The welded part was leaking and the bubbles had slid down the fitting when I took the picture.
This was devastating. We stopped working on the car and just talked about what to do. Tam just kept saying "Why can't we just put something on the outside to seal it, JB Weld or something!?!?"
Josh had said that it wouldn't weld up right unless we ultrasonic cleaned the part. Maybe he was right. He said if I sent one of the fittings back to him he'd send me a new one or fixed one.
My worry is losing momentum on this part of the project. What if it takes a month to get a part back?
I just want this done!
I decided to take the other fitting, drill out the pinhole, clean it really good with red scotchbrite and alcohol and have my buddy try one more time.
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[SupercoolBill]

We also had a stainless steel part that need a bolt tacked into it to replace a stud that had snapped off.
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I had some Allen head SS bolts that are pretty flat on top.
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I have a nice MIG welder but I'd prefer a stainless weld since the part and bolt are both stainless.

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[SupercoolBill]

We dropped the parts off at my buddy's shop.
I needed a quick win so I worked on our horns. I impulse bought a set of horns one day. I was in Harbor F. or Tractor S. and saw a nice set of horns that looked very similar to the ones that came off the car for cheap.
The problem is they have two terminals rather than just a positive. I was hoping that one side was grounded but no such luck.
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So we made up some short grounding wires and installed them.
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That little job is done.

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[SupercoolBill]

While under there this rusty pedal box hardware was bugging me.
I managed to find some stainless hardware to replace what was there.
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Much better [emoji18] [emoji108]
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[SupercoolBill]

Next up for a quick win....installing the radiator intake shroud.
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I could have swore I bought stainless hardware for this stuff but once again I ended digging though my shop stock to find what I need for mounting the shroud.
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Installed the grill next. Man talk about over built! The number of brackets, bolts, etc. Seems way overkill.
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We bolted everything up then I got thinking "Hmmm...I think these bolts are supposed to through the front facia" [emoji51] oops.

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[SupercoolBill]

At the shop on Sunday. Installed the second repaired 90 degree fitting.
Pressurized the system higher than I meant to but a good test I suppose.
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Not losing pressure. Good sign. [emoji1696]
Slathered it with soap bubbles. No bubbles!! Thank GOD!
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[SupercoolBill]

Blew off the nitrogen charge and put it on the vacuum pump.
Tam installed the piece that goes on the front of the car and the fronk hinges.
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Tam cleaned up the rockers and replaced all of the broken plastic pin clips. Which was almost every one of them so I need to order more of them.
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I installed the RH rocker. I used plastic push pins as I had planned to. They seem to be a great way to attach the rockers.
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The threaded pieces impregnated into the rockers all broke out when I took the rockers off so I thru-bolted with stainless steel hardware. It worked pretty slick.
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[SupercoolBill]

Before leaving I charged the system with refrigerant (R134a).
Called it a night. 4 hours spent working on the car. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251110/bbc58aa90b5f02b735841c662d3ae0ad.jpg

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[Helirich]

I?ve had the same kind of problem with leaking AC fittings on a truck I own. Very irritating.

[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car from 5P-8P.
I started with plugging the hole that goes up into the front of the tub. This was a super highway for rodents in the past. Also I figure it will be less load on the heat and AC. Probably not a noticeable difference but whatever.
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Next we spent way too much time on the binnacle and wires for the steering column, etc. I completely installed the binnacle then realized there was a plate that was supposed to go on first so I had to completely remove the binnacle and reinstall it again.
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I drove myself crazy and wasted an hour trying to figure out the "correct" routing of the speedometer cable, wiring under the left side of the dash, etc.
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[SupercoolBill]

Next I worked on swapping over parts from the old radio mounting framework onto the NOS origonal one that I bought from DMCH.
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Switch looks to be in decent shape inside. Too bad I just ordered a new one earlier today. I will keep the new one and install it at some point.
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Some of these were a real pain to remove without damaging them.
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[SupercoolBill]

Switches all swapped over. I bought a new screw for the HVAC panel but someone before put a sheetrock screw in there so the OEM screw is too small to work now. I cleaned up the screw that was in it and painted it flat black. Also touched up some blemishes on the radio mounting assembly.
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[Mark D]

Great progress! That A/C fitting sure was a PITA, but glad to see you finally got it to stop leaking.

[SupercoolBill]

Great progress! That A/C fitting sure was a PITA, but glad to see you finally got it to stop leaking.Yeah me too. It was the bane of my existence for a while.

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[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car from 5P-9:30 last night.

Put some foam tape on the new radio mount.
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I found pictures from when we took the car apart. Realized we had the hood hinges on backwards so reversed those. Found where the clips for the wiring install.
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[SupercoolBill]

Tam finished installing glove box.
We installed the right front fender support strap.
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[SupercoolBill]

We got out the new left front fender.
And set it in place on the car.
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We didn't know if we needed to install the same number of shims that came out. We started with no shims. Even with no shims the fender seemed to be riding too high.
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Also the lower section behind tire has less curvature than my our driver's side door does.
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We traced out the difference on some cardboard.
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The top edge of the fender seems to have too much of a roll to it also.
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[Helirich]

I didn?t realize that kind of adjusting was necessary. Were you expecting that?

[SupercoolBill]

I didn?t realize that kind of adjusting was necessary. Were you expecting that?No not at all. I have contacted their tech support department. They are very responsive so far

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[Iznodmad]

Well the fenders are Chinese made

[Mark D]

Hopefully it's possible to adjust the fender for better fitment. I can't say that I've seen anyone outside of DMCH's promo videos actually install one of the new repro fenders yet. Seems like there was a significant number of people that bought one as a backup to keep on a shelf or hang on the wall.

So you may be in uncharted territory with what you need to do to make it fit. Best case scenario you get away with just adding a few shims or spacers. But from the photos it looks like the shape of the bends are slightly off, which is more concerning. I'd be interested to see how it lines up with the hood in place.

Good to hear that DMCH is working with you though. From all of the hype showing off the development process, manufacturing, quality control checks, etc. you would think these should be perfect out of the box.

No matter how tight the controls are on the fender itself though, there are also variations from car to car with the fiberglass body tubs and alignment of the doors. Are the original factory installed fenders perfect one-size-fits-all panels, or did those require some bending and tweaking here and there to get them to fit perfectly if swapped from one car to another?

[Josh]

The panels on these cars are not very transferable from car to car.
Im sure there are issues with the outsourced fender in terms of quality, but I also would not just throw any fender on any car and expect it to fit nicely.

[SupercoolBill]

Mid-afternoon I heard a loud sound. Tam ran outside to see what happened. She yelled "Trailer truck!!" So I ran out behind her. A trailer truck was driving way too fast and a old lady with one bad eye pulled out of a food market across the road right into the trailer truck.
Luckily the lady was okay. She got lucky. The engine ended up in my neighbor's lawn.
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[SupercoolBill]

After the scene was secured I went back to the shop. I worked on the rear louver for an hour. I installed the spine support that I bought from DMCH. No installation instructions but seemed pretty straight forward.
I noticed a crack so I am glad I bought this reinforcement.
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Drilled holes with a right angle drill.
It's tight to try to drill but not have your drill chuck rub on the louver.
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Fully installed. I like it.[emoji846]
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I removed the latch to give it a better paint job. While prepping for paint I removed some of the casting marks.
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[SupercoolBill]

If I am being really nitpicking I'd like to see some simple install instructions for the spine reinforcement and Allen head bolts rather than Philips heads.
Like I said...nitpicking. not much to not like about this item.

I have been going into jail on Fridays so I stopped work on the car to grab something for dinner then head in to visit inmates.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

If I am being really nitpicking I'd like to see some simple install instructions for the spine reinforcement and Allen head bolts rather than Philips heads.
Like I said...nitpicking. not much to not like about this item.

I have been going into jail on Fridays so I stopped work on the car to grab something for dinner then head in to visit inmates.

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Mine is an old one from the EU. Not much to tell since you already have the holes drilled. Just use strong washers.

[SupercoolBill]

Went for a [emoji2089]/ [emoji2211] this morning (I'm in the back holding a dog).
Loaded up the engine cover, rear facia, and front facia from the house.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251115/d228e374f8359c14dcd7ddf390a4530d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251115/95c45c24a7dcf8ddee815b822ec27683.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I forgot to post a picture of parts that showed up yesterday. Once again ridiculously fast delivery from D-go.
I kept waiting to order the improved version of the light switch from DMCH but they never seem to be in stock. Like the seat covers and few other items that never seem to be in stock.
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D-go claims that there switch is more heavy duty than the OEM one. I was tempted to pop it open and see.
I plan on installing LED lights so should be less strain on the contacts anyways.
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[Helirich]

My car has a stiffener on the louvers. I?m not sure if it?s home made or not. It works OK, but it hits the wire handle on the plug on the fuel distribution. Does anybody else have that issue? I guess I need to shorten the handle.

[SupercoolBill]

My car has a stiffener on the louvers. I?m not sure if it?s home made or not. It works OK, but it hits the wire handle on the plug on the fuel distribution. Does anybody else have that issue? I guess I need to shorten the handle.Good to know. I'll watch out for that

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 11-6 today.

I got out the parts and pieces for the engine cover. I was disappointed that the U-bolt I bought wasn't plated steel. It is already rusted.
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I decided to just use my original U-bolt that I had previously put heat shrink onto.
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Once I get everything lined up where it needs to be I'll take some black paint and a small paint brush and paint the exposed parts of the U-bolt.

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[SupercoolBill]

I installed the new bump stops.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251115/79667305cc260f666513f32d66ff499b.jpg
The guy I bought my vent adapter said I would need to cut a slot for rear radio support strap. So I chopped it out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251115/192a92f561f3df2f43083d60b79bb7fe.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/47c655d08dde65d5fb5fccc83a9592fd.jpg
One complaint I have is the piece was kind of hollow so when I chopped that part out it left a void on both sides. Should still work fine though.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/b812c06d039fb8cdf273425b9a0c4352.jpg

While I was working on this stuff Tammie was modifying each individual plastic clip that holds the plastic rocker on so they they actually lock onto the rockers.

I removed the rocker that I had previously installed so Tam could fix the clips. This was a good chance to test the removal of my push pins.
They worked great.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/ad30be4a4dde5e0a71a201f88ce23f91.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

One thing I had never noticed before. There is no bolt in this rivnut.
I figured out why. If you line up the hole with the rivnut the plate is misaligned.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/b32be9965f8f0123762c3610688b4772.jpg
So I just ended up leaving it. I figure its been like this since 1982 so...

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[SupercoolBill]

After all this time I finally opened my rebuilt stereo system that Eric Woltkamp did up for me.
Very impressive packaging and even professional looking instructions.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/072973ec5ca270c7a57f14508940c9e6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/2df6907823a8e5f42c388cdfb7e4cf3b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/18ac5d92a1b1014b6b418dba45e0e002.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I had to transfer the noise suppressor to the rebuilt stereo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/1b913807123b78b0177cf64891977ab6.jpg
I installed the stereo into the console.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/10ada497576a3b83f2dbb47b00ef4098.jpg
I installed this cover plate in the car with some self tapping screws rather than trying to get it to seal some other way.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/fb6807add589fbea89d23cdbb6e033b7.jpg

Tam worked on the engine cover installing the vents and the stickers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/af78e5a465c37c7b0af304c7b65aba5f.jpg
She got really mad because the stickers didn't go on perfectly straight. I told her that was fine because it looks more original that way.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/59823f5d74207b66b93ee5a0acc8bae9.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

I worked on the rear facia before heading home. I installed the splay nuts for the taillights and license plate bezel.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/760f5b0aedffd6c9041f76bb23763d70.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/3e9d5b4044881d83ad39f9723273e23a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/9fcd3335d21e1b5600f69b31d382e52b.jpg

I didn't include any pictures of it but I tried installing the center console, radio, HVAC controls. I just couldn't do it. It was too stressful, I was in a lot of pain, it was too confusing, to hard to hold the panel while trying to get all these wires where they are supposed to be etc.
This is something I will have to do earlier in the day, have someone help me with, or have someone else do unfortunately.

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[SupercoolBill]

One frustrating thing that happens during a restoration is all of the pieces that just seem to vanish. Some times they are rediscovered after you've already purchased a replacement part. Right now we are missing the little aluminum plate that is riveted to the back of the rear louver. I know that I removed it before having the louver painted but I don't know where it is now.
Luckily it is easily replicated or can be purchased for $28.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/96a235cafc1014a4817befc02fc05170.jpg
While on D-go's site I found that they have the U-bolt in plated steel AND they now sell a washer fluid bottle cover that is much improved over the original design!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/76b30420225c2e2a9fd2ed0e2d188d0f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251116/05c0bccdbb941f620363ad0a320b9217.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I made mine out of stainless, but remember a real PIA to do. I put shrink on it thinking it would stop a vibration but made no difference.

[Helirich]

I made mine out of stainless, but remember a real PIA to do. I put shrink on it thinking it would stop a vibration but made no difference.

If you made it from SS, why the shrink wrap?

[Bitsyncmaster]

If you made it from SS, why the shrink wrap?

I was thinking a vibration I am hearing was coming from that latch. It was not so I should cut off that shrink wrap.

[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 4:30-7:00. I took another stab at the HVAC console with the agreement that Tam would help me.
Dug out the wiring diagram.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/5d3262f2035d7b0f932b33284a712cb5.jpg
Someone posted this picture showing which wires go where. Very helpful.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/74934431796944de7595597b0f5a6e8e.jpg
Me trying to get the nut and washer on the stereo support strap. This was nearly impossible. I would guess that the proper sequence is attach the strap to the underside of the dash THEN attach to the stereo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/ac5a6a20e55839711c3581bdca3abd63.jpg
With Tam holding up the console I was able to somehow get the nut started, with a washer too.
Tam finished tightening the nut. This was also next to impossible.
After that was done I set the console down onto the studs.

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[SupercoolBill]

I finished putting new LED bulbs in the HVAC panel lamp holders.
We figured out with lamps went where in the panel and slid them into the proper ports. Easier said than done.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/9cbe89e4b575d3cf6e4ec64f34f6e7f2.jpg
Plugged in the connectors for the hazard lights switch, headlight switch, and blower control.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/031b77d090a7c9f0fdaa9ab4aa9c8337.jpg
Next was hooking up the vacuum lines for the HVAC controls.
This was yet another task that seemed very simple when it was taken apart but very confusing trying to put it back together.
The diagrams in the manual would have been more helpful if they told you which hose position goes to where with the color and number.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/1065c6645b55cb9bdaee370efad0393b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/e2b0587c5338e91fcb717ae16e7377cf.jpg
After an hour of wracking my brain trying to figure it out Tam found this online. Vintage 2011. Exactly what I needed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/c16090e3c07fe4b405af08e76f5edac0.jpg
We went to install the custom vent ducts and got worried. Maybe they had to go in before? Uh oh.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/db7056e6a6beb9463f5032c6b5738ebb.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

With some squishing and pushing 🫸 they went into place perfectly.
Worth noting, I don't think the part really needed to be slotted for the stereo support strap.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/b21321b05f573c4899394b292e21af3b.jpg
Slowly coming together.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/105b5b43bc69d715d24a4f631603bda3.jpg
Called it quits for the night. Next time we will work on wiring up the stereo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251118/638fb3e3686383fea72e8e4a98aa1e26.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car last night for 4 hours.
DMCH is sending us another left fender but they need the one we have returned. So Tam removed the fender from the car and boxed it up. I worked on wiring up the stereo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251120/c8f74c085ab898c6535f64f7d957ad60.jpg
For the life of me I couldn't find a wiring diagram anywhere that actually showed the ASI radio wiring to the car connections. I knew what was what on the stereo but not on the car side. For some reason it all seemed more complicated than it should have been. I assumed that the wire with a black line on the front aftermarket speakers was the negative side.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251120/b2fd39899df90adbb3cba15f3a61f793.jpg
Tam hooked up all the grounds on the right side of the console.
I found this wire disconnected and determined it was ground for my right front speaker (red for ground, makes sense to me[emoji849]).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251120/1c41408436e79c6dee65df68ced3a88e.jpg
I managed to get the pin connector out of the plug but could see no way to re-crimp the wire back onto it. So I stripped back the wire, split the copper strands, wrapped in opposite directions, and soldered it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251120/a42c948121ea5fb3610373d26e0459fc.jpg
Not my best solder job but it passed the tug test.
I carefully bent the ears back out and popped it back into the plastic connector.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251120/986a185da5ec8d1806970b6be34b449f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251120/43ae641833b84171e03dc3413fe56009.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam was trying to install the right knee pad and realized that the glove box gets installed AFTER the knee pad. So she had to redo all of that.
I hooked up the temperature control cable (blender door). This is quite a pain. I don't remember was size the tiny bolt is that locks the cable down but it took us forever to find something to fit it properly. I don't like the way this whole area behind the console is such a chaotic mess. How does the movement of the temp. control not end up rubbing on wires?

I decided it was time to test the radio. I put a battery in the car, hooked it up, and immediately heard a loud annoying "Eeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!" sound. It sounded like it was coming from the stereo. I panicked and quickly unhooked the battery.
I unwired power to the stereo and hooked the battery back up. "Eeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!" Okay so it isn't the stereo. I pushed the driver's side door switch in and it stopped.
Is this the seat belt alarm?? Wow talk about obnoxious! I unplugged that (which was how it was when we got the car), wired the stereo back in, and tried it out.
Turned it on, heard a slight noise from the speakers. Turned it up, nothing. Changed balance and fade, nothing. Tried AM, nothing. No clock on the display, no stations on the display. Tried the Bluetooth feature. Got my phone to connect and work. Realized that the rear speakers are most likely blown..they sounded horrible. By now I was messaging back and forth with Eric Woltkamp about the stereo issues.
He had me check this and check that. Try this and try that.
It was late and we were frustrated so we called it a night.
Ironically a couple days ago I shared this text with some buddies of mine that I have breakfast with every Wednesday morning.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251120/27b328a71e91fbb600a35f914307ff5a.jpg

We expected to be done this car before now but it still isn't done.
We expected the new front fender to be correct but it wasn't.
We expected the rebuilt stereo to work correctly but it isn't.
Then there was the bad AC fitting issues.

But in the big picture these are "First world problems". Are we really going complain about owning a Delorean? I guess not.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251120/c009630672223ca1e0c8bbba89055d83.jpg

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[Mark D]

Nice job on the wiring fix. It might seem like a small detail in the grand scheme of things, but getting each little thing right can give you enough satisfaction to keep going on to the next. Wiring isn't my favorite thing to do, but I love the click sound of pins locking into connectors.

The stereo issues sound frustrating, but at least the initial bad sound was just the seat belt / ignition buzzer! I've had that unplugged on my car as well since I bought it. I don't have any experience with the ASI radios, but my Craig is a little noisy at times, especially with the engine running I get feedback from the alternator. Not sure if adding a ground loop isolator would help, or in this case where in the wiring you could install one. I had a similar issue on my E46 through the aux input, and an inline ground loop isolator solved the problem. Does the ASI radio use the same weird shared ground setup for the speakers that the Craig radio does?

Like you mentioned though, can't really complain too much about owning one of these cars even when they are frustrating. I appreciate reading your updates, and don't expect them :thumbup2:

[ssdelorean]

. >>snip<<

I decided it was time to test the radio. I put a battery in the car, hooked it up, and immediately heard a loud annoying "Eeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!" sound. It sounded like it was coming from the stereo. I panicked and quickly unhooked the battery.
I unwired power to the stereo and hooked the battery back up. "Eeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!" Okay so it isn't the stereo. I pushed the driver's side door switch in and it stopped.
Is this the seat belt alarm?? Wow talk about obnoxious! I unplugged that (which was how it was when we got the car), wired the stereo back in, and tried it out.

>>snip<<


I might, ... might... know of less than a handful of owners who actually leave that plugged in. Why? I have no idea. :)

[Timeless]

I might, ... might... know of less than a handful of owners who actually leave that plugged in. Why? I have no idea. :)
Funny, mine only buzzes sometimes at initial key on/start. Maybe 1 time out of 10 cycles.

[SupercoolBill]

I might, ... might... know of less than a handful of owners who actually leave that plugged in. Why? I have no idea. :)Its very analogous to fingernails on a chalkboard.

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[glockworks21]

have you already removed everything needed to get to the rear speakers?

I also got rid of that buzzer immediately. I only killed the battery once while working on the car. :eek1:
I thought someone was working on or found a more modern sounding alert that could be installed. maybe a cross over part that worked from another vehicle that wasn't so annoying?

[Timeless]

I thought someone was working on or found a more modern sounding alert that could be installed. maybe a cross over part that worked from another vehicle that wasn't so annoying?
An owner I know installed an older Cadillac door chime module. (70s-80s) Personally I'd just remove it.

[SupercoolBill]

Is this really what it is supposed to sound like??
https://youtube.com/shorts/txWisKhKtTI?si=_r4CJ_lyM0Rt1XZ4

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[Timeless]

Is this really what it is supposed to sound like??
https://youtube.com/shorts/txWisKhKtTI?si=_r4CJ_lyM0Rt1XZ4
That one sounds unhealthy. FWIW mine doesn't make any noise in relation to the door switch on/off. Only occasionally for a few seconds when key on (i.e. seat belt alert)

[DMC-Ron]

Is this really what it is supposed to sound like??
https://youtube.com/shorts/txWisKhKtTI?si=_r4CJ_lyM0Rt1XZ4

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

Yes, that is the sound. Perhaps yours is a bit louder because the dash padding is missing. If you disconnect the driver side upper door switch (the one with the purple/white and purple/blue wires, then the door open alarm is disabled. And that's the most annoying feature. However, the buzzer module is also connected to the seat belt switch and powered through the ignition switch. So it will still buzz if you turn on the key without the clipping in the drivers side seatbelt. The seatbelt alarm has a timeout feature and will stop buzzing after a short time. I, like most owners, have disconnected the door open alarm, but I left the seat belt feature connected.

Ron

[SupercoolBill]

Yes, that is the sound. Perhaps yours is a bit louder because the dash padding is missing. If you disconnect the driver side upper door switch (the one with the purple/white and purple/blue wires, then the door open alarm is disabled. And that's the most annoying feature. However, the buzzer module is also connected to the seat belt switch and powered through the ignition switch. So it will still buzz if you turn on the key without the clipping in the drivers side seatbelt. The seatbelt alarm has a timeout feature and will stop buzzing after a short time. I, like most owners, have disconnected the door open alarm, but I left the seat belt feature connected.

RonWow it is horrible.

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[SupercoolBill]

I've got great news! I figured out what was wrong with the stereo and it doesn't need to be sent back. In fact the problem isn't even with the radio itself.
I removed the stereo from the console as suggested by Eric. I hooked it all back up with it just sitting on the floor. I got pretty much the same results.
I decided to get out my old stereo and try that one and see what happened. Pretty much the same thing. No radio, cassette worked but not very well. I hadn't been able to find my multi-meter but I did have a test light in my toolbox so I grabbed that. Power on +12V ACC but no power on +12V Constant.
Ah ha!!!! I went back to the restored stereo and wired it directly to the car battery. Hey what do you know! Everything works!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251122/2738c7cc2504ee27df1c4d3b5bedccae.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

I messaged Eric and told him that there is most likely nothing wrong with the stereo (I'm just a moron for not checking the power feeds earlier). I'm sure this was a relief for him.
Some things I discovered-
1. The stereo will work and pay cassettes and Bluetooth works WITHOUT +12V on the red lead.
2. The stereo is a lot loud than I previously thought (now that it had constant +12)
3. My rear speakers are most likely NOT blown as I had previously thought. With +12V to the red wire they sound pretty decent.
4. The original stereo may actually not have anything wrong with it (still need to test this theory)
5. The FF and RW buttons on my order stereo stay in when you push them (double action) but on the restored unit I have to hold the button in. Kind of annoying. *NOTE- I told Eric about this and he said that the cassette may not have been all the way down into position in the stereo.
6. If I wiggle around my factory speaker plug connectors I get static noise and the sound out of the speakers changes volume. I think I may need to try to tweak the connectors to get better contact.
7. Oh and this part of the wiring is different on the two stereos.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251122/a500acb0ceddd17f85648f55e04b51c9.jpg



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[SupercoolBill]

Lots of grammar errors on that last post. Sorry about that. I worked on the car a couple hours today.
I troubleshot the issue of no +12 constant. The fuses were all okay. Traced out the wire and found the issue. A mouse damaged wire.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251123/1d9658b3913799cbe3d1ad9bb56ce4fb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251123/8962d34e607035e6aebd7cc8ab7e36c4.jpg
I vaguely remember finding this damage when we took the interior apart.
I repaired the damaged wires.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251123/5559c70a1a2e4f1bcb7716b778ab42bd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251123/f40b17015108c30ec57732e27ddf7fb1.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Since I now know that the stereo will work but not work correctly without the +12V constant I decided to try our original stereo again, with 12V constant. It worked....well kind of. The front plastic piece is warped so it is kind of difficult to get the tape in and out, the radio didn't pick up any stations (antenna collapsed though), the play direction arrow on the left side doesn't work, and the tape player drags some times. Definitely restorable though.

I noticed that the wiring on the plug connector for the speakers is different between the two units. I'm not sure why or if this matters.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251123/f197c366e34f73a35ae08a37a2171ca2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251123/00591d6cd5f8b607cc3eda02679a0cdf.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I reinstalled the rebuilt stereo. It is a tight fit but it can be fed in from the side.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251123/96b634848739d3f139f7b9649873aa62.jpg

I'm getting a lot of inconsistency, crackling, fading in and out of my speakers. It seems to be an issue of bad connections in the plug connectors for the speaker wires. I say this because when I move the wires around it directly affects the symptoms. I feel like just chopping off the connectors and butt splicing the wires.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251123/b851258c2f28b2ea737810c19b132a49.jpg


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[DMC-Ron]

Before you cut off all the connectors to butt splice, apply some DeoxIT. If you have the spray version, just undo the connectors and spray into both male and female pins. Then connect and disconnect the Molex connector several times. In addition to deoxidizing, it also provides some lubrication to the pins.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1&th=1

There is also a high potency version. It just takes a drop. But there is no carrier solvent to insure dispersal and coverage like with the spray can version. Thus, it's limited to applications where you have easy access to the contacting material of the connector.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000YH6F8?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_2

Ron

[SupercoolBill]

Before you cut off all the connectors to butt splice, apply some DeoxIT. If you have the spray version, just undo the connectors and spray into both male and female pins. Then connect and disconnect the Molex connector several times. In addition to deoxidizing, it also provides some lubrication to the pins.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_1&th=1

There is also a high potency version. It just takes a drop. But there is no carrier solvent to insure dispersal and coverage like with the spray can version. Thus, it's limited to applications where you have easy access to the contacting material of the connector.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000YH6F8?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_ti tle_2

RonWill do. I already have a can per your advice way back when.

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[SupercoolBill]

Went to work this morning and started rummaging through stuff at the shop that could be used for venting the cars exhaust to the outside so we can work on tuning the engine in this winter.
Found some 2" flexible conduit.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/31386cf13e0377e358aedc0abac16438.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/98313ac4ccc03d0911eca5141a1f28ce.jpg
I just need some adapters to go to these 2" couplings.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/61e7e9791e986671a2363b958e205fcd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/ef067b0601a17f14669fc294a2d4519c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I couldn't seem to focus on work. I ended up checking to see what vanity plates are available through the state bureau of vehicles.
Here are a few that I came up with and are also available-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/e8358256216798662d35584fd5f366de.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/78008a1cc0f58e039491a7161b07b11a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/a16398aeedf331d74504f966085f95d2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/a58bbb729223a7cbb83649adfe0ea201.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/694049338328d9c23556274484a4145a.jpg

We may just end up running a 1980s license plate. It is acceptable to run a period correct license plate in Maine.

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car after work from 4P-7.
I cleaned the electrical connections for the speaker outputs
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/f575d4946b57afbfb383f52ff6229387.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/255740b765160298e1c74f39348175a7.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/4fd928e01526654691dde8f5bdcb866f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

With the connections cleaned I plugged in the connections.
I hooked up the battery and tested the stereo again. The sound seemed better and didn't crackle when I moved the wires around.

I wanted to make sure that the radio worked so I figured out the power antenna. Basically the factory relay was no longer required so I removed it and wired in the new antenna.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/b85059e3e09bbf2c6622d65fa932d1bc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/6f0e9762c56033c7bf4a15b41355dc7d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/5c95bae4491c1bb364e9110b1effd762.jpg
We tested the radio...antenna didn't go up. Then I realized that the left rear quarter wasn't grounded yet. I put a temporary jumper from the AC compressor to the panel. Wah-lah! The antenna works! And some radio stations come in!

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[SupercoolBill]

We bolted up the front fender brace on the right side and left the hardware in the left side. Our new fender from DMCH is supposed to be here Wednesday.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/9f23e742049aa3c7057f58a378695dcb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/18e048592f4357d5bff36169d93464c8.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The last thing I did before we called it a night was to work on the license plate bezel.
All of the screws were seized.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/090951d461e59ba85bbf2bbead4437b3.jpg
Ground them down flat and center punched them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/783f27394b749e1f4dd3432fc2109d21.jpg
This didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/4115e49b676032610fdbe5bf7323bf86.jpg
I managed to not destroy the bezel too bad. I put new inserts in
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/b1375be3ae710bfefa7911814c43f5b4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/0247e67d2201ee97adfcc72d866ba222.jpg I added some loctite to lock them in.
I installed new screws with anti-seize.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/38d8b72a044b9a08d517985eb2cf1d48.jpg

I haven't decided yet if I want to try to recondition the bezel or paint it. That is for another night.


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[JETS 81 DMC]

I couldn't seem to focus on work. I ended up checking to see what vanity plates are available through the state bureau of vehicles.
Here are a few that I came up with and are also available-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/e8358256216798662d35584fd5f366de.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/78008a1cc0f58e039491a7161b07b11a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/a16398aeedf331d74504f966085f95d2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/a58bbb729223a7cbb83649adfe0ea201.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/694049338328d9c23556274484a4145a.jpg

We may just end up running a 1980s license plate. It is acceptable to run a period correct license plate in Maine.

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I got a huge laugh from "CAH" :hysterical: I get it.

Was TYME4US available to represent you and Tam working on it? Just a thought.
Lots of other good choices.

Thanks for all of your time you take for updates and pictures. I have learned quite a lot from them.
I look forward every day to them. :thumbup2:

[SupercoolBill]

I got a huge laugh from "CAH" :hysterical: I get it.

Was TYME4US available to represent you and Tam working on it? Just a thought.
Lots of other good choices.

Thanks for all of your time you take for updates and pictures. I have learned quite a lot from them.
I look forward every day to them. [emoji106]2:Oh I like that. [emoji846]
I have actually been trying to find something like that.
I tried a few but they were either too long or were taken already. Like QLTYTYM example.
Yeah obviously "Cah" is a reference to how we pronounce car in Maine. Especially if you are from northern Maine like Tam and I are.



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[DMC-Ron]

I get it. This is a create the license session. Just for fun, here are some quick ones:
GDASNEW

TIMEFIT

SSRIDER

JDRULES

FLUXYOU

WDNNRDS

GULWING

KJETPWR

MYLIFE

4KHOURS

BDSWTRS

NOFCAP

BTTFNOW

TAMTOME

FOTAM

[SupercoolBill]

I get it. This is a create the license session. Just for fun, here are some quick ones:
GDASNEW

TIMEFIT

SSRIDER

JDRULES

FLUXYOU

WDNNRDS

GULWING

KJETPWR

MYLIFE

4KHOURS

BDSWTRS

NOFCAP

BTTFNOW

TAMTOME

FOTAMWow its going to take a while for me to decipher some of those haha!
You may have done all of that for nothing. I'm thinking of going a whole different route. In the state of Maine if you register a vehicle as an antique there's a clause in the rules that states you are allowed to run a "Period correct" license plate.
This has several advantages over a new vanity plate.
1. Conspicuousness of the car. Nowadays if people see a cool car they take pictures and plaster it all over the internet. Someone that knows the car and the plate says "Oh that's such and such who lives ___."
2. Cheaper registration. We aren't talking huge money here but it is less than a vanity plate every year.
3. Coolness factor. It should look pretty cool having an 80s license plate on an 80s car.
4. For big brother proofing. Not really a big factor for a couple in their 50s but I do like the idea of having the plate that is seen on the car not easily being traceable.

Here's an example from the internet-

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251125/20cf714a02c975913f18d342082edc5f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The new left front fender showed up while I was gone. I saw the new fender and the first replacement fender was still at the shop also. I dashed out to the office and told Tam that the other fender was supposed to go back to DMCH. She was on the phone but said to me "I know, I am working on it."
I am not not sure if the delivery driver refused to take the other fender or what. I guess Tam is on it so I am not going to worry about it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251126/dde928de0961fada2d49617220165e61.jpg


Update...my Ring camera just went off. I see Tam carrying the fender out of the shop so I am assuming a shipping truck picked it up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251126/0b84d9d3e8db6e0337a1a47db71c3832.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

I didn't like how the license plate bezel looked. I post online to see whether people usually paint them or try to apply something like Restore to Black to make it look better. It sounded like the way to go is painting.
I prepped it by wiping it down with MEK on a rag.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251126/e58aca30e0e13f708d9e984be32f1ef7.jpg
I decided to paint it with some semi-gloss engine paint that I had.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251126/5f2fd95511ecf10a76cf2931256e8a31.jpg
I didn't like how the paint was coming out. The semi-gloss was too shiny, showing all kinds of flaws and just didn't look right (too shiny). I thought "Well I can try wiping off the paint now before it dries but that will be a big mess." "I can wait until the paint dries then try to prep for painting again." "Time consuming and paint may not adhere well to the paint on there now."
I ended up just grabbing a nearby can of SEM trim black and trying to paint over the still tacky semi-gloss paint.
It didn't come out good. The paints didn't agree with each other and the SEM wasn't mixing up well in the can so it was coming out was too thick and instead of a fine mist it was spraying like a can of WD-40.

Oh well. They sell new bezels on D-go. Or I can try to strip down and repaint this one later. Fortunately it is easy to remove from the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251126/768a90df7cbe7cd84325d5bdd8bce4af.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251126/dc2b28f13bc5332235c59fcd212f7188.jpg


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[glockworks21]

1. Conspicuousness of the car. Nowadays if people see a cool car they take pictures and plaster it all over the internet. Someone that knows the car and the plate says "Oh that's such and such who lives ___."
2. Cheaper registration. We aren't talking huge money here but it is less than a vanity plate every year.
3. Coolness factor. It should look pretty cool having an 80s license plate on an 80s car.
4. For big brother proofing. Not really a big factor for a couple in their 50s but I do like the idea of having the plate that is seen on the car not easily being traceable.



As you start driving this car you will find that people are going to eventually know who you are and where you live and work. The plate won't matter. I would get what you want on it and not worry about it. Nearly everywhere you stop people will ask about it. Ive had multiple people follow me into my neighborhood and stop to ask if they can take a pictures, and at that point they are in front of my house. Same thing happens at work. I'm sure most people here have the same experiences.

the first car I bid on over 4 years ago(not the one I own) I talked with the owner during auction. He said "Be prepared for the attention, the car is a celebrity and you're not" or something along those lines.

In that state are you able to get vintage plates that are personalized?

[SupercoolBill]

1. Conspicuousness of the car. Nowadays if people see a cool car they take pictures and plaster it all over the internet. Someone that knows the car and the plate says "Oh that's such and such who lives ___."
2. Cheaper registration. We aren't talking huge money here but it is less than a vanity plate every year.
3. Coolness factor. It should look pretty cool having an 80s license plate on an 80s car.
4. For big brother proofing. Not really a big factor for a couple in their 50s but I do like the idea of having the plate that is seen on the car not easily being traceable.



As you start driving this car you will find that people are going to eventually know who you are and where you live and work. The plate won't matter. I would get what you want on it and not worry about it. Nearly everywhere you stop people will ask about it. Ive had multiple people follow me into my neighborhood and stop to ask if they can take a pictures, and at that point they are in front of my house. Same thing happens at work. I'm sure most people here have the same experiences.

the first car I bid on over 4 years ago(not the one I own) I talked with the owner during auction. He said "Be prepared for the attention, the car is a celebrity and you're not" or something along those lines.

In that state are you able to get vintage plates that are personalized?Yes you can get personalized vintage license plates. You have to pick something nobody else has, you have to pay extra to have the plates made, and you have to pay a bit extra each year.

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[Timeless]

I got one of the new acetal plate bezels from DGo and its great. Almost got the aluminum one and powder coated it but wanted to see how the acetal looked.
7189271893

[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car today for 5 hours.

Uncrated the new fender V2.0.

I could see that it was indeed made different on the lower rear edge. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/f736e52cddbf9ae437b4d7f5c98d7cbf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/7dfc810e62607d2c01deca08c35e6e2c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/eeecda7dc20d25f672f34d5afe6ed4d5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We played around with adjusting the fender, adding shims, removing shims, pulling it while trying to tighten down bolts etc. I feel like the fender is still not a perfect fit but maybe it's just something with our car.
I need to try to get the bottom of the driver's door to pull in further. I loosened the front pin and moved it inward tried the door, moved the pin further in, etc. Did this four times and the door still seemed to not be pulling in on the bottom. I will have to mess around with this some more in the future. Not sure if I need to make a more extreme adjustment to the pin or maybe the door latch mechanism isn't working correctly.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/f4313a6c8ea247b43b2e66277035fb09.jpg
If I push in on the bottom front of the door it lines up perfectly.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/021ed13fa408b70b2d70ac6bce26a677.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

This part of the door and the fender doesn't line up right. It didn't on the previous new fender either.
This is how it should look.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/ea3f95d8aea7420f8644f1b2d931fbca.jpg
Sorry I guess no picture of the messed up driver's side.
I traced out the passenger door, cut on the line, then checked the driver's side.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/4fe421220da110ef23ad380d2604ddc1.jpg
The door is bent on this corner. Should be an easy fix later on.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/4459c128f2b6c31ce0124934718df4b2.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I removed the front latch so I could let the hood rest on the bump stops while making our adjustments.
We installed the hood on the car with the nuts loosely tightened. It's always stressful messing around with the hood due to the cost of replacement if it gets damaged.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/f9091451291e44fa24dbd90f04bc80c5.jpg
We adjusted the hood hinges up and down, left to right, front to back, tried to get gap on both sides of the hood even, etc.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251129/4a8ab24cb215406426da308de1ff37a4.jpg
If you like things perfect, don't buy a Delorean lol!

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[SupercoolBill]

We finished mounting up the fender.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/691ae393e7915c1c1c58cf9dc3b4969a.jpg
I reinstalled the fronk latch set up, adjusted, and tested it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/0e43124e09f0d3cc1f16636c7e7270b1.jpg
Tam tightened down all of the bolts up front and installed the headlight mounts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/09c5f465d01a38acdace32bfb0f776da.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/8205630b93048bc71754df9d74331dd0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I installed the left side rocker.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/21960111733e2cd59841297074f62230.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/a0a49d21229a7c3ffa016b8cbea6665c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/f49e69b8de0ba3e61a152bae56b6d8d4.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

And the icing on the cake, new fender edge trim and bolting up the support bar.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/bb5f8351c851c46229da5629ec6b9f55.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/4c2f6b7ef2100c3acbc4590240c71b17.jpg
Just having the fender, hood, and headlights installed made us feel like we are really getting somewhere.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/022d841bf3085a9aa0bd378a0579a1c2.jpg
Even though we will probably just end up removing the hood again because the carpet on the underside needs to be re-attached still and the crash brackets and latch bar need to be removed and painted then re-installed.

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[SupercoolBill]

I noticed this while working on the car and it kind of worries me. There is quite a gap between the top part of the doors and the windshield frame. Keep in mind I have some work to do on the left side because that door is not fully closing all the way on the front edge.
I am not sure if the car has always been like this and I never noticed or if something happened to the doors since we have had it and have been working on it. My worry is that the doors somehow got tweaked.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/22fec65f04d806f26ab777fc533e0e9e.jpg
As you can see this door is not pulling in all the way at the bottom but I still don't think this will make up that gap on top.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/8f5d2d753d0ce99e585413dbac743611.jpg
The right side IS fully closed but also has a gap on top.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251130/d242c03b6294b3cc89ec8206dbdc4b46.jpg
What do you guys think? Am I worried for no reason? Is this normal?

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[Helirich]

I don?t think it?s right, but I also don?t think you tweaked it. Probably just needs adjusted. My pax door was not shutting right. I did a lot of screwing around with the latch post. It looks good now if I slam it from the outside. Just means I close the door for my wife.

[Mark D]

I wouldn't get too caught up in the alignment of the doors / hood / fender until the car is sitting on the ground.

There is quite a bit of flex in the fiberglass tub when it is supporting all that weight of the chassis hanging below it. You'll need to do all the final alignment of the panels with the car sitting on the suspension, or you can support the car from below by putting your jack stands under the frame instead of the body to get a better idea of what it'll look like when it's finally sitting on the ground.

Overall that second fender looks much better than the first.

[SupercoolBill]

I wouldn't get too caught up in the alignment of the doors / hood / fender until the car is sitting on the ground.

There is quite a bit of flex in the fiberglass tub when it is supporting all that weight of the chassis hanging below it. You'll need to do all the final alignment of the panels with the car sitting on the suspension, or you can support the car from below by putting your jack stands under the frame instead of the body to get a better idea of what it'll look like when it's finally sitting on the ground.

Overall that second fender looks much better than the first.Ahhh very good point [emoji106]

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[GS450-Junkie]

Remember to get the doors installed and working properly first, then adjust all other stainless panels to the doors. I know....easier said than done.

[SupercoolBill]

This showed up today.
The advantages of owning a business. You can buy tools "for the business" that can also be used personal projects. My favorite to date being my 30 HP Kioti cab tractor [emoji2]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251201/1cd3620c0af723d9776082ccc624a450.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Today we are having a snowstorm. My employees are off so I was out at my shop just "putzin around" as Tam calls it.
The new front and rear speakers showed the other day so I opened the box to check them out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251202/05b719778f7c07c38a03a78d0c9c3910.jpg
This is what I found. Two broken rear speakers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251202/81215c7e02d3c67744d4c35fd84eefd8.jpg
Not trying to be negative but I swear three out of every ten things we buy for the car is broken, detective, the wrong part, or the wrong size. Ugh..


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[Timeless]

These were recommended FYI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DMGHBSCG/?coliid=IOU9I0GS34MNJ&colid=209TTRLVTHPVN&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

[SupercoolBill]

Went to put the left front wheel on the car. Noticed the tire was completely flat. Filled it with air and leak checked with soap bubbles.
This rim was really corroded. Not sure if an animal just kept peeing on it every time it walked by or what. We had the rims sandblasted and powder coated. In hindsight I wish I would have brought the rims to a nearby rim restoration shop. Someone told me what they do is chuck the rims up in a lathe and shave some material off to get past the pitted material. I would assume that's what it is leaking, pitted material. I am hoping for now someone can just pop this one side of the tire off the rim, put some goop on that area, and seat the tire back on the rim.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251202/ee88d31e460c0f2d56333091fbe9a2c5.jpg
I marked the leaking areas with a sharpie. Hopefully it will wipe off with some gas later.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251202/95fc30739a65c9b28646175a9d6b6d29.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

These were recommended FYI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DMGHBSCG/?coliid=IOU9I0GS34MNJ&colid=209TTRLVTHPVN&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_itThanks. Unfortunately I already bought front speakers but I may go with those for the rear.

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[Timeless]

My car was sitting 20 years and I love the machined look so I had all 4 finished in machine look w/new rubber before the driving. Was worried I would have the same leak problem.

[SupercoolBill]

My car was sitting 20 years and I love the machined look so I had all 4 finished in machine look w/new rubber before the driving. Was worried I would have the same leak problem.Nice!

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[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car for a few hours tonight.
The vintage Maine license plate came in today
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/8cc2a2a0faf8244b6b102f6830d3cee0.jpg
so I mounted it in the bezel.
I am sorry but this plate mount is a joke. I ended up having to stray from the stock mounting system a bit.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/c93da6899ae44c1c377df8a29549213d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/2c3ee11077ef62294e851e8e2a89ec36.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/a102a8a3e9467c961b4b9dcd2c5246ce.jpg
The final product. Good enough for now. I can always easily remove it and make it better in The Future.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/e8ce049a3eab61833078e194563c30ae.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I looked at the headlight mounts again and figured out the issue. The adjustment screws in the right side mount were too short.
The left side-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/046457365df866b134e61bebfb505056.jpg
The right side-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/c5a9811ccc289a3c4a0e61970e56a72f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/af778788a8aa55836266218da227594a.jpg
These adjustment screws actually are not the screws that came in the light holders. The ones that came in them didn't seem plated correctly so I messaged Aarron from D-go and he sent new ones but apparently they were not the correct length.
I put the not perfect ones back in for now.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/4f858d45beeef531bd431e9d9434ddc4.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We went to put the new cowl screen. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/efda6c5fddd9b3f777ca7db052ac3f2c.jpg I didn't like how this part fit so we didn't install it yet.
Can someone confirm if this is how this is supposed to go together? Seems kind of lame. Maybe they didn't count on the fenders being shimmed?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/08b6478df058282636c5d84c5adefe4f.jpg

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[glockworks21]

Ive never messed with this but I think its right.

[glockworks21]

i think its pinched flat under the washer of the fender bolt so its flush with the fiberglass. Just realized how brittle that seal is and i don't want to pull it up... sorry..

[glockworks21]

i think its pinched flat under the washer of the fender bolt so its flush with the fiberglass. Just realized how brittle that seal is and i don't want to pull it up... sorry..


pinched maybe wrong word.. just pressed up against it.

[ssdelorean]

Ive never messed with this but I think its right.

Yes, this should sit flush on pontoon/fiberglass.
Mine is tightly wedged in against the shimming washer but under the fender metal. Very, frick'n, tight fit.

[SupercoolBill]

I have noticed that the new rub strips from D-go are black, somewhat porous looking/feeling, and really flexible.
The original rub strips on the car have kind of a lighter black almost gray look to them, they are not porous, and not very flexible.

Is this most likely because they are a different chemical composition or were the ones on the car originally like the D-go ones but they weathered and changed over time?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/194d3071003b57f4e51efdd910e56f13.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251204/70bccf4de0f8a9819e39f12300c75592.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Mine are also more gray looking then the door handles. Both are a different plastic. Probably using back to black would bring them back.

[SupercoolBill]

I picked up my tire today. $20.00.
Fair enough as long as it doesn't go flat. Installed it on the car. It's starting to look like an actual car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251205/5c0e5b7b90f32fc28604d29f2d9dcec6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251205/a886399e447f176b3fe00c4662d81b61.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The mini powered subwoofer showed up. This thing is pretty cool. Quite heavy for its size. This is going to get hidden up under the passenger side of the dash.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251205/ccde8d41ba15e6cabdcf3b08f5644f21.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251205/3051b2ff32dc612fabd52f536f5cc9cb.jpg
This is a picture that Eric Woltkamp sent me of the one installed in his car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251205/c04d25b5f3a1071a49eee419f44c1fa4.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Because "It's the little things that count" black nylock nuts for the hood hinges.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251205/49780b0807e666641e4b731b4728ff5a.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The second set of rear speakers showed up today, undamaged. Yeah!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251211/8de484d1eefbd31f93fc264c2a6625b3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251211/7ee95b35628c82ae7faa85db11634dca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251211/ebb1f1d08e552c8bd84e98e3072a3bc7.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 4-7P.
Heated up the trim vinyl and carefully peeled it back.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/462c55b6b52f13ecd36e8475b0ccf105.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/836ca9146c7333be0fe6325541e8ab6d.jpg

Panel removed
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/f2610ade36e3adac197ab4084c2952df.jpg

Yup the original speakers were toast.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/8808b0bad49f770d209081b6792a8626.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The magnet on the new speakers is smaller. My first thought is that isn't a good thing but I could be wrong. Maybe a smaller magnet can do a better job today.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/9cc6547ed04545f8a5ad5aa1503df863.jpg
Cut the connectors off the old wires.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/47db13a4eff8e963844dba9b85db7441.jpg
I searched high and low and couldn't find a really narrow connector like the speaker is supposed to have on one of the terminals. I tried the connectors I do have and it locked on really tight so I just used the same size on both sides.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/9d798158e416472834e4b1b00a65d3a8.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

We removed the rear trim piece below the rear window while the sides were out. Cleaned it, removed the red light bulb that was in the light and installed a new clear bulb.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/e328e3451451f5d5c03bcea5353b85d8.jpg
Checked the wiring. Luckily now rodent damage.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/0a4264f4decc5382af46ae758585eb66.jpg
Wire connections looked pretty good. I sprayed them with some cleaner.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/4258a65b6f8e2659272fa6d94403027e.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I finally had a perfect opportunity to install the engine cover hinges. I had bought new hinges but also we restored the old hinges. I decided to go with the original ones. Put some oil in the part that rotates before installing them.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/03ddd9faff826c3351acb4e9d8efe6aa.jpg
There is some play in the hinge bolt holes so we set the engine cover in place on the car then set the hinges in place.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/123e538de048aa052273abbe96c73b7e.jpg
I put some black RTV on the mounting surface for the hinges so water can't leak through.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/5bd9e5f426d8f06abc904210a05e6cc4.jpg
I tried getting the nuts on and just couldn't get my fingers to work right so I had Tam install the nuts while I held the hinges centered in place.
I was very glad to have the hinges back on. It is like a another mile of the tail end of a marathon.


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[SupercoolBill]

I installed one the new speakers in the mount. I tightened the band clamp...and tightened, and tightened. The ears that hold the magnet were folding inward. I had the band pretty tight and didn't like how things were looking. I tried wiggling the speaker or what we call a "tug test" at work. The speaker easily broke free of the mount.
I don't like it. I need to find a way to make the O.D. of the magnet larger or the I.D. of the mounting ears smaller. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/b8452da65aef235d32cb15b8ad1774e0.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/2036380883c590cef5a23860083b9643.jpg
This still seems like a very odd way to mount a speaker. When I was younger and into car audio stuff I was always told to not have the magnet of a speaker installed touching or near metal and don't even for a short period, stick a speaker to something metal with its magnet.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/0dbe9e09b913cbb9c26faf055b0073f2.jpg
The dogs were ready to go home and snuggle so we packed up for the night.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251212/64f4ae7bdad0d36601dc482ffb6742bf.jpg

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[Helirich]

This still seems like a very odd way to mount a speaker. When I was younger and into car audio stuff I was always told to not have the magnet of a speaker installed touching or near metal and don't even for a short period, stick a speaker to something metal with its magnet.

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I don?t like that either. I didn?t know they were mounted that way. I wouldn?t worry about the small magnet with an amplifier.

[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 12-5:30.
I had come up with simple plan to make the rear speakers fit in the mounts better. Cut piece of duct tie then use heat shrink tubing to lock the pieces in place. Tam went to work on this.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/48f1c22f237b49affda6173f9b5a6b82.jpg
One side modified with the spacers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/2288f788049631f94131e1fe6af43731.jpg
While she was doing that I added more sound deadener/insulation to the tub.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/3b8df1821326d06fe8b3548dd1031ec7.jpg



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[SupercoolBill]

The modified mounts worked well.

I removed some old sticky black tape from the harness and found a positive and negative wire just chopped and left. I am not sure if this would power the light for the gear selector in an automatic transmission car or what. If this is factory I am surprised they'd just leave a hot wire uncapped.
Tam put a heat shrink tube on it.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/dc7a3e3ddc488954ca2d9fd25916f471.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/bbb80abda80083db3ccd45c295e7830b.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next up, replacing the front speakers. This is a horrible, painful job.
These are the "old" speakers. Pretty nice I think.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/7ccc7a43d5339842ba6e3489a6f7b98c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/fbd3bb9ce69dafe2b27cd5689c5c4032.jpg
One problem, the face of the new speakers had a tall spacer ring made onto them. The speakers mount on studs coming down from above. So what you've got is what you've got.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/f18e55e0d822ff0b6c664e9a6a181d6c.jpg
Next problem, the mounting holes are quite large so I needed to install washer also.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/af29e81febecec680a7d4a311799631e.jpg
I decided to remove the Pioneer screens from the old speakers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/6d49e124c432002dd414d8a622e58eca.jpg

So, the fun part. Lay on your back with your head under the dash, small flashlight in your teeth, push the speaker up as hard as you can and hold it there, put a tiny washer on the stud protruding through the speaker frame, get tiny nut started onto the stud which is just about flush with the washer.
Add to this that I seem to be too close to see with my glasses but can't see well without them. And of course my hand and fingers are not doing what my brain is trying to tell them to.
It took many tries but finally got all of them and tightened the nuts as much as we dared to. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/e96d2576782549c22da30fea8362cb53.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Next up. Finding a home for the powered subwoofer.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/aba6ad428f7cc576fe2a2f03f3bf31b2.jpg
This was one option-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/3a1b371991602027e5e8ac662b5225d6.jpg
Eric W. Mounted his with heavy duty velcro up in front of the blower going horizontally.
The sub came with some mounting hardware. I was able to modify and use it to mount the sub.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/7799849b1cb72ec45fafa7c1c596b42e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/c1c149bb543a62413ccc233c8d0e0111.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/2c7cee59fb388b9b49d58efcc9e4718a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/0f4bb4291ca98df20fa19fdc5a723913.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/29d28d517e9dacd3f0703a7ff064b4e2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/08c1dbedab02f80ff7a70f0d1a8fd9db.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I like how the mounting came out. Very rugged, I can access the plug in, and the adjustment knobs.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/a3a1ba12098713e6b11bb23c69cb4ff6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/a0331fb4a81d25c2b558cb53ab089cf3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/f91f26ea9d8d64e48bfeecdb705c89e7.jpg

I quickly wired it in, threw a battery in the car and tested the stereo before we left for the night.
We started with radio. The speakers sounded pretty good but honestly to me it didn't sound any different than it did before. Could just be me though. I hope it sounds better after all I went through.

The sub didn't seem to be doing anything. Tam tried adjusting the bass and we got horrible static noise every time she moved the knob. She wanted to try a tape. It was only playing out of the speakers on one side for some reason. I pushed the direction change button and everything started working fine, not the sub still though.
I reminded Tam that tape players and cassette tapes were not as great as we remember them being. I played some music through the Bluetooth and it sounded good and everything worked properly...except the sub.
So I need to troubleshoot the subwoofer and see why it isn't working.

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[SupercoolBill]

One thing that I have been wrestling with in my mind is do we replace the roof box now or wait and do it later.
Last year I had decided to wait to do the roof box for the following reasons:
1. It is a HUGE project. It is almost a restoration project in itself. Very time consuming and stressful.
2. Our roof box is in okay shape. As far as I can tell it hasn't started lifting anywhere, it is rusty inside but not rusted out, the doors are currently working well. Kind a "If it ain't broke don't fix it" thing.
3. We want to get this car on the road ASAP. We are burned out on this project. We are going on 4-years of it sitting in the HVAC shop. We need it running, driving, and on the road this spring.
4. If I replace the roof box I am going to also put a new windshield in the car. So...a whole another project and expense.

But....I am finding that there are several reasons to replace the roof box now for the following reasons:

1. Much of the interior panels that would need to be removed for roof box replacement are currently removed. And these are a pain to remove.
2. Most of the interior parts (seats, center console, etc.) that get removed to replace the roof box are currently removed.
3. The t-panel is currently removed
4. The interior roof panels, material is gross looking, smelly, and falling down. We would like to replace them but if we do we would just need to take them back down to do the roof box.
5. We already have a new S.S. roof box.
6. It would be nice to have the car restoration 100% done so we can move on with our life (Is it every really 100% done though?)

What do you guys think?
We are considering just removing the roof panels so it doesn't stink inside, leaving some of the interior and door gaskets off the car or putting the old ones back on for now and just driving it like that for one year then jumping on the roof box next year or the year after. Another option if we waited would be hiring a professional to replace the roof box and windshield.

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[SupercoolBill]

Oh and in the spirit of "While you're in there" do we install door strut reinforcement plates also while the interior parts are out. The strut mounts seem solid for now.

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[Helirich]

If it was me and I was burned out on the project, I think I would just do a rust prevention job on what you have. That may last for 20 years or more if it?s not bad now. On the other hand, the rest of your car is brand new.

[SupercoolBill]

If it was me and I was burned out on the project, I think I would just do a rust prevention job on what you have. That may last for 20 years or more if it?s not bad now. On the other hand, the rest of your car is brand new.Yeah that's what I am thinking.
I just bought a new scope camera. I'm going to get a good look in there again. If it isn't toast then I will spray some 3M body cavity wax in there. I already have a can of it with the long application tubes with different spray tips on them.

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[glockworks21]

skip it. get it running and driving and enjoy it for awhile!!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Save it for another winter project. That big project would probably not let you drive it in 2026. It's not that much work to remove things again.

[SupercoolBill]

Talked to the wife this morning.
I am going to scope the roof box again. If it doesn't look horrible I am going to order:
Roof interior panels, top of doors gasket & rivet kit, full door gaskets kits and maybe a carpet kit.
If DMCH had seat covers in stock I would probably order those also. Other options are D-go which has two options which I struggle with then L-seats is also an option.

I will probably end up ordering a Wolfshead wheel also. We really wanted to rent or borrow one but I can't seem to find one to rent or borrow so we will end up buying one then use it once.

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[JETS 81 DMC]

Here is a tread with some options for re-graining tools that are less expensive. Also some warnings on the use.

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19993-G-amp-P-Wolfhead-Sanding-and-Polishing-Wheel#:~:text=Looking%20to%20find%20a%20decent,hea rd%20back%20from%20them%20yet.

Some info on re-graining and tools in this link:
https://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/20091018#:~:text=Now%20for%20the%20sanding%20tool% 3A,and%20brushes%20that%20texturize%20metal.

You, Tam and the pups have been making some great progress. :cheers1:

Thanks again for all the time you take for your very detailed posts too. :thumbup:

[Josh]

Some may disagree, but it is not worth the effort/risk of doing a roof box until you have through rust (rust holes in any of the sections). Otherwise, just rivet down the rear section, spray some sort of rust prevention into the center section, and check back in a decade.

[SupercoolBill]

Some may disagree, but it is not worth the effort/risk of doing a roof box until you have through rust (rust holes in any of the sections). Otherwise, just rivet down the rear section, spray some sort of rust prevention into the center section, and check back in a decade.Thanks. I think it has been riveted by someone already unless it has rivets from the factory.

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[SupercoolBill]

I took a break from work this morning and went on DMCH and put stuff in my cart. Unfortunately several things I wanted to order (Roof interior panels, seat covers, carpet kit, floor mats, etc.) were not in stock. I contacted James Espey and he told me what the situation was on each item and expected lead times for those that he knew. I really appreciated this.




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[SupercoolBill]

We have no reoccurring plans on Monday nights so usually plan to work on the car on Monday nights but Mondays at work also take a lot out of us. So after work we decided to not work on it. I did however look through the parts for the car to see what we have for usable seat belt parts vs. what we need. I went on DMCH's site and printed out the pages for the seat belts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251215/30437b932d42e24edde2fd66bad2260c.jpg
I don't know why this was so dang confusing but it was. I ended up writing the part numbers on the exploded diagram then writing down what I do and don't have and condition it is in.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251215/34b5814fe54c1b99ed69ad7724d1dfad.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Here is a tread with some options for re-graining tools that are less expensive. Also some warnings on the use.

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19993-G-amp-P-Wolfhead-Sanding-and-Polishing-Wheel#:~:text=Looking%20to%20find%20a%20decent,hea rd%20back%20from%20them%20yet.

Some info on re-graining and tools in this link:
https://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/20091018#:~:text=Now%20for%20the%20sanding%20tool% 3A,and%20brushes%20that%20texturize%20metal.

You, Tam and the pups have been making some great progress. :cheers1:

Thanks again for all the time you take for your very detailed posts too. [emoji106]Thanks
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251216/c4e76dc9e34c9aae8baec8f2a62e5f90.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Okay guys (and girls maybe?) You be the judge.
From the access hole forward looks pretty good.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251216/3830ce6b554f87668ea9223407b9687b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251216/98aa334190f60e39748cd6354a1837d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251216/d831758a92a283a6779c3c081c799976.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251216/6d979f1a35bd7ee1eaa9eadc0d88728f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251216/ab453b043ba52dd6a0d48a3037ce1efa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251216/f2dab8ad55272fd6be47053824c6f841.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Here where it gets dicey. This is from the access hole rearward. Night and day difference-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251216/81dd915c6f1d5cff7d30f309dc1c4468.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251216/db98eca54649fc522c864a75932575af.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/b874fc4048cd0a7b32190610c0eaac50.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/70cd974fa496d6ad6e3464a6ec5f900c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/7c6ab353466e908a42a435ad7868b0e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/099fa8684a1c74caf4f7f5fc65029448.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The rust tan line is crazy
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/f9f825d889646bb9ced442bcee1c898c.jpg

This looked like a hole at first but I think maybe it just looks that way
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/1ca787d77066cfbe3f1a076b1052dca5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/dc8dfd41c4d4640dda6ff5466d140f59.jpg

Look at that pile of rust flakes!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/8bfda30a8641b993921243c549f1036d.jpg

I do have a full can of cavity wax.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/f019e947e78129a54c7dc02247751086.jpg

So what do you think? Can I just clean it out, coat it with cavity wax, and put off doing the roof box for a few years?

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[JETS 81 DMC]

I have read in a Corvette forum that Bilt Hamber Dynax-ML product similar to 3M Cavity Wax will penetrate existing rust and protect from more occurring better than the 3M product.

Corvettes are known for the "bird cage" area for a lot of rust. Bird cage is part of the frame structure around the cockpit of the car.

Just thought I would pass this info on. I have no firsthand experience with either product.

Others on the forum with roof box structure experience like on yours should give you some advice.

Good pictures you posted of it.

[ssdelorean]

So what do you think? Can I just clean it out, coat it with cavity wax, and put off doing the roof box for a few years?


I say yes.
My roof box was WAYYYYYYY worse and still working fine. I finally replaced the center section when the sides started to rust thru.

7191571916719137191471912

[Patrick C]

So what do you think? Can I just clean it out, coat it with cavity wax, and put off doing the roof box for a few years?


I vacuumed mine out using a variety of homemade vacuum attachment made from garden hoses, etc. I cleaned it as best I could this way, got a wire brush in where I could, etc. Then I used an Eastwood rust encapsulator paint with a long extender hose, and when that was dry in a few days, I used an Eastwood Waxoyl type of product also with a large extender hose and sprayed that all over the place in there as well. I think that bought a ton of time and will work for you as well.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-heavy-duty-internal-frame-coating-24-inch-nozzle.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-black-rust-encapsulator-paint-over-rust.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-heavy-duty-anti-rust-in-black.html

[SupercoolBill]

Okay since we have decided that I am not replacing the roof box right now what about installing the reinforcement kit on the door piston mounts?
My mounts seem to be in good shape. I am assuming I can just keep an eye on them and if they start getting wobbly address it then?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Okay since we have decided that I am not replacing the roof box right now what about installing the reinforcement kit on the door piston mounts?
My mounts seem to be in good shape. I am assuming I can just keep an eye on them and if they start getting wobbly address it then?

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The don't wobble. They bend the plate they mount on.

[Patrick C]

Okay since we have decided that I am not replacing the roof box right now what about installing the reinforcement kit on the door piston mounts?
My mounts seem to be in good shape. I am assuming I can just keep an eye on them and if they start getting wobbly address it then?

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The don't wobble. They bend the plate they mount on.

Agreed, the ball studs mounted on the car will start to look like they are at an angle, and that's when you know they are bending/breaking the fiberglass. I wish the Heninger style replacements were still available, as they were a very good repair and a very fast install compared to the available options today.

Bent:
https://images.clickpix.org/LjwHGS.jpeg

Repaired with Heninger bracket:
https://images.clickpix.org/LjwhLQ.jpeg

[SupercoolBill]

This is what mine look like-https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/fa25bfea26c4081253c0a61851fcd84d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/4f7570f238b3f0698050ca2ea238bfe0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Are these rivets factory? If they are then should I install some large rivets?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/42668265aa7f3555a8c9c4201c2790e2.jpg

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[Patrick C]

This is what mine look like-https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/fa25bfea26c4081253c0a61851fcd84d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/4f7570f238b3f0698050ca2ea238bfe0.jpg

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Looking at them from above, are they angled?

Your roof panel rivets are factory. They started doing this on the later vehicles in addition to the adhesive. I would still do the 2 carriage bolts through the roof modification while you have everything ripped apart for added insurance that your roof doesn't lift.

[SupercoolBill]

Looking at them from above, are they angled?

Your roof panel rivets are factory. They started doing this on the later vehicles in addition to the adhesive. I would still do the 2 carriage bolts through the roof modification while you have everything ripped apart for added insurance that your roof doesn't lift.Driver's side-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/daeeefc211f414626bfcda20d208aac2.jpg
Passenger side-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251217/fb950c535ae5c909444a86be747ee56c.jpg

Now that I look at the pictures I can see that they are tipped a bit.

I don't mind installing the reinforcement plates. This is way less of a job than a new roof box.


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes those are bent.

[SupercoolBill]

I vacuumed mine out using a variety of homemade vacuum attachment made from garden hoses, etc. I cleaned it as best I could this way, got a wire brush in where I could, etc. Then I used an Eastwood rust encapsulator paint with a long extender hose, and when that was dry in a few days, I used an Eastwood Waxoyl type of product also with a large extender hose and sprayed that all over the place in there as well. I think that bought a ton of time and will work for you as well.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-heavy-duty-internal-frame-coating-24-inch-nozzle.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-black-rust-encapsulator-paint-over-rust.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-heavy-duty-anti-rust-in-black.htmlOkay ordered a can of the encapsulate in white and the long nozzle. I think the 3M nozzles I have would work but I don't want to wait to find out.
I went with white because I figure it will make it easier to check in there later.

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[Patrick C]

Okay ordered a can of the encapsulate in white and the long nozzle. I think the 3M nozzles I have would work but I don't want to wait to find out.
I went with white because I figure it will make it easier to check in there later.

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Nice! Keep us posted how it works out!

[SupercoolBill]

More parts. If I am being totally honest I am kind of going to miss this. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260101/329f30af75620211d5375f58617c1b61.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260101/5aee561fab80b378bc300fd80929e30c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I quickly threw this together yesterday. This is so I can run the car inside without killing us hopefully haha. 2" Electrical fittings and flex.
I kind of goofed on one thing. The exhaust on the car is around 3' apart so I made my holes 3' apart. The problem is I will be attaching these to the muffler not the tailpipes so the connections point straight put away from the car. I should have made the holes further apart. It will still work though. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260106/0673450bbe10466136da995e76b5bb87.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260106/365a789add4b568ab3964f04b9b452d6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam decided that she wanted to pull the trigger on all new gray carpeting with backer. Another one of those "While you're in there" things. Our carpet wasn't that bad and it cleaned up pretty well but might as well. Not cheap though at $1200.00 [emoji51]

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[Timeless]

Tam decided that she wanted to pull the trigger on all new gray carpeting with backer. Another one of those "While you're in there" things. Our carpet wasn't that bad and it cleaned up pretty well but might as well. Not cheap though at $1200.00 [emoji51]
It's worth it. A friend got it and it is fantastic - I would do it in a second if my original carpet wasn't in mint condition. Bonus is not more old carpet smell.

[SupercoolBill]

It's worth it. A friend got it and it is fantastic - I would do it in a second if my original carpet wasn't in mint condition. Bonus is not more old carpet smell.Yeah I think odor was a factor. Women smell everything. I always say "If Tammie is in the office and a mouse farts in the warehouse, she smells it."

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[mike123]

I don't want to be negative, but in the interest of providing one person's data point:

I would not go with the mass backing carpet if I were to do this again. In the passenger footwell area, it feels great. However, where it folds over the wood, and goes into the lockable compartment, and other areas of tight bends and folds, it does not seem to have the flexibility to sit like the original thin carpet.

I will also say that the carpet replacement did not remove the smell from the car. (That said, I had this done by a shop and if there is some foam material between the carpet and fiberglass tub, I am pretty sure that was not replaced). On this topic of smells, for my time machine conversion, I also removed all of the foam from the parcel shelf. The smell is still there, despite wholly new carpet and that parcel shelf foam being gone.

When I removed the passenger seat and stored it in my basement for a few months, I distinctly smelled the "DeLorean smell" when walking by the seat. I can't say that the seats are the only source of the smell, but they are certainly *A* source. And I don't think you will rid yourself of the smell as long as you have original seats in there.

[SupercoolBill]

I sold a heavy duty bumper and a winch yesterday. I am going to use the money to buy a used Wolfshead wheel off from a member of the forum.
My wife reminded me the other day of how much we were spending on medication and physical therapy twice a week every week (we don't have health insurance) and with a future that probably involves me not being able to work at some point we need to start thinking about not blowing so much money on frivolous things....like carpeting lol.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260107/750fe7e6127ad3258b4012b4f234eda5.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I don't want to be negative, but in the interest of providing one person's data point:

I would not go with the mass backing carpet if I were to do this again. In the passenger footwell area, it feels great. However, where it folds over the wood, and goes into the lockable compartment, and other areas of tight bends and folds, it does not seem to have the flexibility to sit like the original thin carpet.

I will also say that the carpet replacement did not remove the smell from the car. (That said, I had this done by a shop and if there is some foam material between the carpet and fiberglass tub, I am pretty sure that was not replaced). On this topic of smells, for my time machine conversion, I also removed all of the foam from the parcel shelf. The smell is still there, despite wholly new carpet and that parcel shelf foam being gone.

When I removed the passenger seat and stored it in my basement for a few months, I distinctly smelled the "DeLorean smell" when walking by the seat. I can't say that the seats are the only source of the smell, but they are certainly *A* source. And I don't think you will rid yourself of the smell as long as you have original seats in there.Interesting. Well I wish I would have known this before ordering "The better" carpeting. It seems like a waste of money but could the backer be removed in some of these areas?
I thought that it just meant that it had the stock cushioning and the cheaper option was just carpet with no backing at all.
Smell...yeah seats, carpets, dark corners with rodent poop, HVAC system, parcel rubber/foam thingy, sound deadener pads in the pontoons, headliner, rubber e-brake handle..... everything will be new or rebuilt in our except the seat foam. Wonder if something could be sprayed on it? Or dip them in a 50 gallon barrel of cleaner?


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[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car from 5-7 tonight.
I really wanted to get the car down onto the tires. So we went through the process of lowering the car back down.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260108/7ea817ed78fd8fde72c50030e67f4cae.jpg
Tam hiding from the camera
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260108/008d64970464382835cbe49ff2de9cf2.jpg
Back on its tires. Fire extinguisher ready if needed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260108/4e113842679b7e92368422431d26d774.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Started the car and drove it (in the shop) for the first time in 25 years.
Moving the car into position.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260108/ff7101ee8440df533ecb4b749d7bf32c.jpg
My special Delorean board
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260108/8e65e99a02c6049dba559f3d92f2bd2a.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

Ran the car and checked the timing.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260108/4f64b8264c487554915b0b5a13e69ee8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260108/5623d5a3788dabd79f7d6e273b76effc.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Here is a video of the car running.
Now that I know I have low dopamine and struggle with anxiety and depression I try to always be observing and analyzing my thoughts and action. This event was a perfect example. I felt excitement but also had anxiety as we lowered the car and prepared to run it. While it was running...Joy and excitement.
Sending the video of it running to my buddies, fun and exciting, some anxiety.
The real problem was after I got home. All these thoughts raced through my head-
I never heard the cooling fans come on.
Why did the coolant temperature never get above 100? It seemed like it was running quite a while.
Is there an air pocket in the engine or a stuck thermostat and I just cooked the engine?
Why was the engine smoking so much? Did the piston rings not seat right? Am I running it wrong for the rings to seat in?
What if one cylinder was getting too much fuel? What if one cylinder was getting no fuel?
Why did the car go into high idle and wouldn't come down after we revved it up.
Why does it seem difficult to get the car in reverse? Is the linkage not set right or just lack of experience?

Ugh....I am by now means saying this is a PD problem only. I am sure many people struggle with thier thoughts.
I am going to let it go and check and adjust more things on another day.
Here is a video of it running.

https://youtube.com/shorts/70bmkbM6ugY?si=XYENe_sK6uwHPuhc

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[Bitsyncmaster]

When I was doing my rest pressure testing, my car took 12 to 13 minuets of idle to when the thermostat would open. Know that by feeling the coolant hose going to the otterstat. My gauge had climbed to almost the 1/4 mark. The fans would not come on.

This was done with 45 deg F temps. In the summer those times are much shorter. So if your temps are lower, expect even longer times. Your temp gauge does seem to have a problem though.

[SupercoolBill]

When I was doing my rest pressure testing, my car took 12 to 13 minuets of idle to when the thermostat would open. Know that by feeling the coolant hose going to the otterstat. My gauge had climbed to almost the 1/4 mark. The fans would not come on.

This was done with 45 deg F temps. In the summer those times are much shorter. So if your temps are lower, expect even longer times. Your temp gauge does seem to have a problem though.Yeah i have a digital temperature probe strapped to the pipe next to the otterstat. I think it only got up to 80 degrees.
Yeah the car has been sitting in a 50 degree warehouse so it could be that it just took that long to warm up.
So one thing that I need to troubleshoot is after the car had been running for a while at a that low idle I revved the engine several times and held the throttle 1/2 open like 15 seconds and the idle would come down after that. I unplugged the cold start valve and the idle motor to see if that would change anything but it didn't.

I need to break out the service manual and refamililarize myself with all of this K-jet stuff.

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[mike123]

Regarding the carpet... I am sure you'll do well with it. As a fellow NERD, I look forward to seeing it in person someday. And I promise you, you will have a laugh at my locked compartment and how badly I gouged that up when trying to install the carpet there.

Regarding the anxiety... it is the nature of these cars I think. For 19 years I had a Toyota Corolla and never once thought about it not starting. But with the DeLorean, I have had a couple of wiring issues in the past that went away ~immediately and I don't know why/how and now every single time I go for a drive, I debate whether I should avoid stops because the car might not start up again.

[SupercoolBill]

Regarding the carpet... I am sure you'll do well with it. As a fellow NERD, I look forward to seeing it in person someday. And I promise you, you will have a laugh at my locked compartment and how badly I gouged that up when trying to install the carpet there.

Regarding the anxiety... it is the nature of these cars I think. For 19 years I had a Toyota Corolla and never once thought about it not starting. But with the DeLorean, I have had a couple of wiring issues in the past that went away ~immediately and I don't know why/how and now every single time I go for a drive, I debate whether I should avoid stops because the car might not start up again.I ended up talking to James Espey and also to DMCH tech. Support.
It made me feel better to hear that this is the carpeting kit that they use in house on their "high end builds"
They gave me some pointers for installing the carpet in the back areas and shaping around corners. I think I will be okay.

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[SupercoolBill]

I recently realized that I should have installed adjustable links (either top or bottom) on the rear suspension.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260110/93df29c4d2cc8e172e21f4e5e29fba32.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260110/bd52e820c9788f5360d4a0272d44b65d.jpg
Normally this wouldn't be required but because I lowered the car some the rear camber should be adjusted.
I am going to proceed with doing the shop alignment and add the camber adjustment later. If memory serves I only lowered it 1" so it shouldn't be too bad.
I thought I remembered seeing somewhere online, a "kit" where you could cut your stock links, weld in the threaded inserts, and make your own adjustable links. Am I just imagining this?? The pre-made ones are expensive and I am trying to stop spending so much money on this car.

Another question. Are these rivets factory? Should I drill them out and put larger rivets in?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260110/c3ad95c72976b442e4bd049af33dbe3a.jpg



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[SupercoolBill]

Last night I ran the car again. I adjusted the CO so it isn't running so rich. I let the engine run long enough so that the temp came up.
It came up to 200, no fans, radiator cold, otterstat pipe not hot, rubber hose coming off thermostat slightly warm. Temperature on guage in the car kept rising. I eventually ended up shutting off the car. Nothing in the coolant system seemed to get hot. Hose exiting thermostat housing was just starting to get warm, hot.

Thoughts??

Stuck thermostat? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260110/402fae36257bd835a893fd3f095d5e93.jpg

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[Timeless]

Not sure about the rivets but I would bolt the roof box anyhow. I used Dgo bolt kit and Lexel sealant around the gaps. Also used Lexel for the door support hardware. Great stuff.
7195571956

[Bitsyncmaster]

Your water pump is not working or thermostat is not opening. I remember one owner had a defective new water pump where they forgot to machine a hole where the water should flow.

Remove the thermostat and retest. You then should feel the otterstat pipe instantly start heating.

[SupercoolBill]

Your water pump is not working or thermostat is not opening. I remember one owner had a defective new water pump where they forgot to machine a hole where the water should flow.

Remove the thermostat and retest. You then should feel the otterstat pipe instantly start heating.Okay.
I was thinking trapped air somewhere like the radiator but it seems like I would still at least get some heat on the pipes. Also I loosened the vent on the thermostat housing and fluid came out.

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[ssdelorean]

I recently realized that I should have installed adjustable links (either top or bottom) on the rear suspension.

Normally this wouldn't be required but because I lowered the car some the rear camber should be adjusted.
I am going to proceed with doing the shop alignment and add the camber adjustment later. If memory serves I only lowered it 1" so it shouldn't be too bad.
I thought I remembered seeing somewhere online, a "kit" where you could cut your stock links, weld in the threaded inserts, and make your own adjustable links. Am I just imagining this?? The pre-made ones are expensive and I am trying to stop spending so much money on this car.



This might be what you are thinking of: https://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/adjarm.html
I had Marty modify mine about 20yrs ago. Not sure if he is still offering this service but you could reach out and check.

[SupercoolBill]

This might be what you are thinking of: https://www.midstatedmc.com/parts/adjarm.html
I had Marty modify mine about 20yrs ago. Not sure if he is still offering this service but you could reach out and check.Thanks I emailed him.


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[SupercoolBill]

Yesterday I had my buddy (Tim Cook) that knows how to do a rough shop alignment come give us a hand.
Before I get into that here's a funny story that gives you some insight on my wife and how involved in this project she is and has been.

Earlier in the week my buddy (Tim) asked if a friend of his could come too. This other guy is a car guy and builds Subarus for rallying in his spare time. I asked Tam if this other guy could come and she said "No!" "This isn't some guy hang out session with Tim's buddy that wants to see a Delorean" "I want to help do this not be standing around while you guys do it". [emoji2955]🫡 [emoji38]
So it was just us three. Tim and Tam actually did most of the work while worked on other stuff in the shop [emoji1].
Tim is a good friend, has been a running/workout, and wrenching partner for years.
His dad was a test driver for Jaguar in the 70s and 80s and knew a lot of the big name guys involved with Delorean and others (Chapman from Lotus etc). Tim was a champion BMX rider in New England back in the 80s, and currently builds and races vintage Triumph race cars for a hobby. So yeah. Cool guy, keeps me trying to stay active, kind of like an older brother to me.

So after we all did a 5 mile run in the morning we converged out at the shop eventually.

Tim is the guy on the other side of the tall guy.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260111/b3fde7ecfe1e65d58cdbf6de8b0bc7f0.jpg
Here's a picture of Tim racing
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260111/27f9e9ddf68d7e3e3ba88930bd5d56cb.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam and I got to the shop before Tim (11:30). I told Tam about the engine over heating and coolant not circulating and my thoughts on it. Andy L. Recommended pressurizing the coolant tank then purging the system without the engine running. I thought this was a great idea since trying to purge the system with the engine running felt a lot like trying to defuse a bomb in the last few minutes before it went off.
He also gave me some other pointers. Well this all worked well and we got a bunch of air out of the system.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260111/a47ef85f90b7d24b22c9c776425c119b.jpg
Pump set up-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260111/4e15fa48ca552322bc9c3dc3376c956c.jpg
Clamping the line recommended by Andy to get more air out. This seemed to help.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260111/d4d4ebe7eab736701e95ae5b564f2d44.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I jacked up the car with my dedicated Delorean jacking 2x8. Did this to get it on the boxes he brought. It looks like it is sitting on jack stands but those aren't touching the car.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260111/64e91536d9d28cd1f81025dc122930ca.jpg

Tam making sure she is fully involved with the process and understanding what is going on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260111/dcfe9ae5bcb03bfdec7da89c6041d94f.jpg



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[SupercoolBill]

From what I heard from Tim things were actually pretty close to the correct settings and he and Tam quickly got things set to where they were supposed to be. This of course is just a rough alignment to be able to test drive the car and drive it to an alignment shop in the spring.

I wanted to show Tim the car running so we hooked up the battery and started it. It started hard and ran rough. It stalled a couple times and had to be restarted. I noticed that my pressure guage (fuel pressure) was fluttering like crazy. I said "Huh, I've never seen that before."
After he left we added fuel to the gas tank since the low fuel light was on (start with the easy stuff right?).
Hey guess what? It started better, ran without stalling, etc. [emoji38]
I texted Tim and told him the car was running out of gas.
At 3:00 we decided to quit while we were ahead.
I "took a nap" at 4:30 when we got home and slept until 5A Sunday. I guess I needed 11 hours of sleep [emoji38]

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[SupercoolBill]

I have questions for those that know about stage 2 set up.

How do I know that I actually received stage 2 heads (modified cams)? I have reached out to DMW several times asking for verification that the heads I bought from them are in fact cammed heads but never got an answer.

What should my timing be set for if I do have stage 2 heads and exhaust?

What else should be changed, adjusted if stage 2? I am hearing that the WUR needs to be adjusted, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Is this true?

Thanks





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[Josh]

I have questions for those that know about stage 2 set up.

How do I know that I actually received stage 2 heads (modified cams)? I have reached out to DMW several times asking for verification that the heads I bought from them are in fact cammed heads but never got an answer.

What should my timing be set for if I do have stage 2 heads and exhaust?

What else should be changed, adjusted if stage 2? I am hearing that the WUR needs to be adjusted, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Is this true?

Thanks





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A very unscientific determination of if the heads are stage 2 - The car will sound noticeably different than a stock DeLorean, with a very aggressive tone. Very "cammed". IIRC you want to aim for the mid to high teens for base ignition timing at idle. Set Idle to approx 850, the stock 775 may result in stalling, especially when you kick on the AC compressor.

[SupercoolBill]

A very unscientific determination of if the heads are stage 2 - The car will sound noticeably different than a stock DeLorean, with a very aggressive tone. Very "cammed". IIRC you want to aim for the mid to high teens for base ignition timing at idle. Set Idle to approx 850, the stock 775 may result in stalling, especially when you kick on the AC compressor.How do you change the idle? I thought that was controlled electronically with the idle motor?

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[SupercoolBill]

A very unscientific determination of if the heads are stage 2 - The car will sound noticeably different than a stock DeLorean, with a very aggressive tone. Very "cammed". IIRC you want to aim for the mid to high teens for base ignition timing at idle. Set Idle to approx 850, the stock 775 may result in stalling, especially when you kick on the AC compressor.Did you see the you tube video I posted of the car idling?

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[SupercoolBill]

I purchased a slightly used Wolfshead wheel from Carbuilder. It showed up yesterday.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260114/bf979e82d3fe9f132b28511929afbddd.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Is there a step by step list anywhere for setting up the engine after the car and engine has all been rebuilt?
I am assuming that the first steps would be to test the fuel pressure in the main incoming line with the engine off (jumper RPM relay), with the engine running, and with the engine revved up.
Next would be setting the timing?
I set the timing the other day but now I wonder if I need to recheck it. I simply adjusted it to 16 degrees with the car idling. I don't remember checking to see exactly what RPM the engine was at. Also the engine wasn't warmed up yet. Not sure if that matters. I didn't have the vacuum tube unplugged from the distributor and plugged. I watched a couple videos on youtube and it doesn't mention the vacuum line.
Oh and I didn't have the intake box on and the crankcase vent hose connected. Not sure if that matters.


I found this file-
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260119/5c52abc5b6d2f28c4bc8ddf927918bb8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260119/3e2a8631b7155a652f3898a90ae64d9e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260119/1c4b846c2bd60aeef8a949040ccb3297.jpg

I am assuming that I can just add 4 onto these numbers? (Since I am running stage 2)
I also need to remember to check and make sure all three adjustment screws on the intake are screwed in all the way.


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[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car for a few hours yesterday after work. I started by removing the timing indicator and using a Dremel with a cut off wheel to make a new notch at 16 degrees.
I kind of wish I would have used my portable bandsaw mounted in the vise instead because the slot came out less than perfect. I painted it with some white touch up paint to make it easier to see and prevent rust until I can get some gold colored touch up paint. I also painted the slot in the crank pulley with the white touch up paint. I reinstalled the timing indicator using my prick punch marks (done before the engine was torn down) to properly line it up. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260120/e89fe4cbd9efef2463821822c285f1e8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260120/4bad0473a7720fc895254a6847cf5098.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260120/dcdc38b06a9138a9c9f91a9efac7a018.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I got advice that our high idle may be an adjustment of the butterfly throttle stop screw and off-idle micro-switch. I checked these. What do you know? Both adjustments were loose and out of adjustment.
I backed the screws way out. I opened the butterflies and let them snap shut several times. Then I turned the screw in so it just began to lift the arm then one more full turn. Basically taking some of the pressure off from the butterflies so they are still mostly closed but not acting as the stopping point for the throttle assembly.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260120/4195b87c46d5ff5d36c7234b82ce849c.jpg
I then turned in the screw for the off-idle micro-switch until the switch clicked then another 3/4 turn. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260120/289a23613493a98334a37c9fd50d8a64.jpg
Oh I also found a bolt that never got fully tightened for some reason.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260120/4c695f13aec8815aa465db6cec5ae41b.jpg



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[SupercoolBill]

We started the car thinking we had fixed our high idle problem.
It was idling lower than it was but still around 2000 RPM.
One question I have is Does this car have a high idle until it gets warmed up? I know my Tacoma truck for example idles really high until it gets warmed up. Maybe I am looking for a problem where there isn't one?
I got out my dwell meter and realized it probably isn't the correct tool. It doesn't have a wire to wire into the car but rather a clamp on sensor that would go onto a spark plugs wire.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260120/0cd8a85ccccd08f556a2488896af6223.jpg
I decided to run the engine and just try to get the CO adjustment close by looking at the exhaust and adjusting for now.
At first it seemed to be running too rich so I backed it off (CCW). this really cleaned things up.
As the engine warmed up I noticed something. The right side was smoking but the left side was not. The more it ran, the more it smoked.
My heart sank....looks like some oil rings on the right side didn't seat.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260120/182cae7e20982f3cd77d1078106218e1.jpg
My buddy just had his race cars engine totally rebuilt and it is doing the same thing so it needs to be taken back apart. They kept running it trying to get it to seat but had no luck.

Needless to say I was super frustrated. I thought "Well maybe the FD is just feeding too much fuel to that side of the engine. So we swapped the injector fuel lines from left to right, right to left.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260120/4eddad9f26baa6bd0ac278e3bdcda44e.jpg
The smoke was still on the right side. Ugh.....
I decided I was done so we picked up and went home.
Next thing to try I guess will be running the engine at high RPM to see if the rings seat. If that doesn't work I am going to rent a bulldozer and drive over this car.

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[Rhye]

My heart sank....looks like some oil rings on the right side didn't seat.

I'd check the valve stem seals first (if the smoke appears bluish, but it doesn't quite look that way).

[SupercoolBill]

I have talked to several people who know more about these engines (and engines in general) than I do.
One thing I didn't even think about is the fact that the muffler mixes the exhaust so I can't definitely say that the issue is on the right side.

Some people say I could have a cracked head, a bad valve seal(s), or a set of oil rings or multiple sets are not seated.
Some people said running too rich but I feel like this is burning oil not running rich.

So here is the plan, going forward. First remove muffler and cats.

This will do several things for us.
1. It will keep from damaging the cats with all this smoke
2. It will show us which side of the engine (maybe both) that the smoke is coming from
3. It will also show us which cylendar or cylendars are smoking by looking at the collectors on the headers.

Next step run the car, look for smoke, get the engine up to temperature, rev the engine up and down, run at 6000 RPMs, etc. And see if the smoke clears up.

If smoke doesn't clear up-
Remove intake assembly. Look in intake ports and see if there are signs of oil coming in through any of the valves. If there is, remove the valve cover and inspect valves and valve seats looking for any obvious issues.

I suppose I could also turn the engine over by hand and watch the valves move and make sure everything looks normal.

If no oil was found in intake ports but one or more of the ports in the headers was sooty...Remove header and look at exhaust valves.

So if I do suspect a bad valve guide(s) can this be replaced without pulling the head?


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[Rich]

Yes, good idea to pull the cat(s) for now no matter whether the smoke is from fuel or oil.

"If the smoke doesn't clear up" try this before pulling the manifold:

(This is not a PRV-specific test)
When one or more cylinders are suspected of burning oil a routine test is to drive the car and then pull the sparkplugs to inspect their firing ends. If the car can't be driven then run the engine in your shop. The longer you run it before plug inspection the easier it may be to see one or more oil-fouled plugs. If the smoke shows up mostly after a cold (overnight) start then focus on doing a series of cold starts before you inspect plugs.

Here's one of many sparkplug visual exam charts:

https://www.scribd.com/document/522908145/Spark-Plug-Diagnostic-Chart



You want to have all of them out at once for a full side-by-side inspection/photo.

For extra credit you can tape numbers on each plug as it comes out so you can put each one back in the cylinder it came out of in case you see no difference to begin with, then want to inspect them again after you rack up more run time.

If you run the engine long enough before inspection and see no oil-fouling of any plugs then it may not be oil smoke you're dealing with. You can hope for that.

[SupercoolBill]

I noticed an error on my last post. 6000 RPM is too high. Probably around 4000 RPM till it is broke in.

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[Helirich]

I am amazed every time you post a pic of shinny gold next to aluminum. When you get done, you need to take a pic of the engine before getting any dirt/grease on it. Then I can make a life sized poster of it. When I go to a car show, I can open the cover and lay the poster on top of my engine.

Carry on.

[SupercoolBill]

I am amazed every time you post a pic of shinny gold next to aluminum. When you get done, you need to take a pic of the engine before getting any dirt/grease on it. Then I can make a life sized poster of it. When I go to a car show, I can open the cover and lay the poster on top of my engine.

Carry on.Haha yeah for sure. I still have a bunch of bling DNW to install

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[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car today from noon to 6PM.
Car fired right up immediately which is encouraging. Moved it to the shop (from the warehouse). Tam removed the nasty old headliner. I started the process of installing the right side lift piston mount.
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Cave art-
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/7df09bbe5cc9c6f15520af83f31b6551.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I want to clean all of this area up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/92cbd9afef2374a19a11431edc8f3d27.jpg
I pulled these gaskets off. They are getting replaced.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/692da5aa0e9a99b7006cc1a76e9281cb.jpg

I started removing the black silicone to get to the inside plate for the door lift piston mount.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/8cef0f0f77f9d3a66f6892ad6b5d08c8.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/e4d1e2626529a341cefc9660afb34db0.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I cut the slot longer to accommodate the new set up with multiple inside plates.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/55fefa2b126b072d97a688d082584a1d.jpg
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The debris and tools pile.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/c2aa955b9004ee8ab4e11c48e7d6e84b.jpg
A picture of what I use for a prop-rod. This is a truck bed spreader bar. They sell them at HF for cheap. It is perfect for this. You can make it any length and use the ratcheting action to push it more open.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/4d64ce6d0eadc4bd11274fa64fe5c421.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Drilling extra holes.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/859315c8d9bea0defad58babd794cd5f.jpg
All bolted in place. I put panel-bond on the inside pieces before setting them in place per the installation instructions.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/c91fd703eecb23c91e3292d94718c151.jpg
I thought I might have to paint this piece but it cleaned up nicely with some wipes.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/9c9637368617d2a105775b8b79322010.jpg
I didn't have the right size rivets so I couldn't finish this side.

No pictures of it but I drilled the heads off the rivets for the top door seal plate.
Then I removed the plate and gasket.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/12db07d929790b75a3aaa36354b361fa.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Ever since we installed the new D-Ind door pistons the doors seem to be opening TOO good now. So I may have to back off on the torsion rods.
Because of this and not being able to stand how gross the splined rod holders looked I decided to try removing one to see how hard it was.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/fba5a3db56ac0ea1477b25d7c24e997f.jpg
I have heard of people blowing out their rear window messing around with these. I know there is a big contraption for doing this but figured if I was just careful and took it slow I might not need all of that.
It was a bit stressful but I managed to get the plate off and the rod out without ruining anything.
I figured I was safe to take the left bolt out. Now what next? Keep tension on the rod and remove the other bolt?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/f7c2805932140a5b098dd963a4e5c088.jpg
I ended up swapping the short bolts for longer bolts.

I kept tapping on the plate with a small hammer while relieving tension on the rod. Then I slowing started working the plate off the rod.
It worked and everything came apart. Whoah stressful.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/800b9d86ddf6f80f381f306689f09921.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I blasted the plate in my blasting booth then primed and painted it. This gave me warm fuzzy feelings. Haha.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/ab757b2221df4c8d9231dc2f21eb3be6.jpg
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While that was drying I hand brush painted the door hinges.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/26cb2bbfc92f9b411721d49b58f3e24f.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Putting everything back together proved to be a lot more tricky. One thing I hadn't thought of is the torque rod doesn't want to stay centered when you have pressure on it with the ratchet.
I tried reversing the removal process but that didn't work.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/d9ef232a2628d7be251ff8e5d92e1216.jpg
So I ended up bolting up the plate first, holding tension on the torque rod while also banging on the back of the ratchet with a hammer to drive the rod splines into the splined plate.
Luckily this worked.
Phew....that was stressful!
The final product with some new S.S. bolts I found in my shop.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/9e4efbcfa918d1c1a3d157ea0986b6ce.jpg


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[SupercoolBill]

I called it a night after this. I video taped the passenger door opening on it's own and everyone said the door is opening way too fast and powerful. So we need to either put the other lift pistons back on OR back off on the torsion rods some.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260202/27640a2ba9e88e3a19497f72de610eb5.jpg

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[Rich]

That's nice, thorough work you two continue to do.

One question. It has to do with the retainer brackets.

At least one bracket's splines look like they got painted.

The original brackets were unpainted. There's very little bar-bracket clearance at the unpainted splines.

Guessing the inside-painted-spline brackets may be hard to slide onto the bars and even harder to pull off of the bars when you want to adjust them.

Does anybody in the community have experience to share on that issue?

[SupercoolBill]

That's nice, thorough work you two continue to do.

One question. It has to do with the retainer brackets.

At least one bracket's splines look like they got painted.

The original brackets were unpainted. There's very little bar-bracket clearance at the unpainted splines.

Guessing the inside-painted-spline brackets may be hard to slide onto the bars and even harder to pull off of the bars when you want to adjust them.

Does anybody in the community have experience to share on that issue?I think I understand what you are saying. There is no paint on the splines of the torque rod. I did put some silicone based clear grease on the splines. When I painted the plates/brackets I tried to avoid getting paint on the splines. It seemed to slide on and off pretty easy when I test fit it.

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[Mark D]

Does anyone else have any long term experience with swapping those torsion bar retaining bracket bolts to A2 stainless?

I ask because stainless steel fasteners have considerably less shear strength and fatigue resistance than their grade 8.8 steel counterparts.

I don't know what kind of loads those bolts actually see, and stainless could be totally fine for this application, but when swapping to a lower graded fastener in a critical area like this I'd want to know for sure that they could handle the load and fatigue cycles over time.

[SupercoolBill]

Does anyone else have any long term experience with swapping those torsion bar retaining bracket bolts to A2 stainless?

I ask because stainless steel fasteners have considerably less shear strength and fatigue resistance than their grade 8.8 steel counterparts.

I don't know what kind of loads those bolts actually see, and stainless could be totally fine for this application, but when swapping to a lower graded fastener in a critical area like this I'd want to know for sure that they could handle the load and fatigue cycles over time.Haha I am getting a laugh out of this. I woke up this morning and thought "Hmmm...I wonder what the strength is of those bolts." "I probably should change them to high grade regular bolts,...after all it's not like they are going to get exposed to road salt or anything"
I am going to swap them out.

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Does anyone else have any long term experience with swapping those torsion bar retaining bracket bolts to A2 stainless?

I ask because stainless steel fasteners have considerably less shear strength and fatigue resistance than their grade 8.8 steel counterparts.

I don't know what kind of loads those bolts actually see, and stainless could be totally fine for this application, but when swapping to a lower graded fastener in a critical area like this I'd want to know for sure that they could handle the load and fatigue cycles over time.

They really don't see shear loads unless they are not tight.

[Mark D]

Haha I am getting a laugh out of this. I woke up this morning and thought "Hmmm...I wonder what the strength is of those bolts." "I probably should change them to high grade regular bolts,...after all it's not like they are going to get exposed to road salt or anything"
I am going to swap them out.

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Funny that you were thinking the same thing. I don't know the numbers off the top of my head, but I think A2 stainless is about 75% the strength of a SAE grade 8 or metric 8.8 bolt. Might be totally fine in this case which is why I was curious if anyone else has been running SS bolts there. I have swapped out most of the other fasteners on my car to stainless except for suspension bolts and anywhere else that might need the extra strength.


They really don't see shear loads unless they are not tight.

That's a good point as well.

Same concern would apply to the tensile strength going from 8.8 to A2 SS. Assuming they maintain clamp load and don't come loose then fatigue would be less of an issue.

[SupercoolBill]

I bought different bolts yesterday and also some 3/8" long S.S. screws.
Does anyone know what size rivets hold these pieces on? I can't seem to find the right size locally. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260207/206929edfb6f92bb093bb3ed857466d9.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Tam is going to her parents for the weekend to watch the Superbowl with her family. So my plan was to have a guy come over today (Saturday). This is a friend of my good friend Tim. This guy knows a lot of stuff about a lot of vehicles and engines. He was a Volvo mechanic in the 80s early 90s. Well, Friday he told me he could "stop in" Friday but was busy this weekend. Bummer.... He did end up stopping in yesterday afternoon (Friday). I introduced him to Tam. He is a super nice guy and knows people all over Maine an New England.
We went out in the shop and I showed him the car. We talked and looked at the engine. He kept pushing the air meter disk down which was kind of bugging me. I hooked up the battery and started the engine. It fired right up and idled.
I got out and we watched the engine run. It wasn't smoking and wasn't idling high.
I said "Well, I guess you scared it!" "It's running pretty good now."
He said something about it running rich. He pushed on the disk on the air meter and the engine would run bad when he did it. He said "See that, it doesn't like me giving it more air"
I said "Wouldn't that actually give it more fuel not more air?" He just looked at me for a few seconds.
I revved the engine a few times and it went into the 2500 RPM idle.
I didn't want to run the engine indoors for too long so I shut it off.
We talked about the fuel distributor, checking the spark plugs, etc.
He is a smart guy but I worry that it has been too long since he worked on K-Jet stuff.



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[SupercoolBill]

It what somewhat mild out and now I was intrigued by how well the engine seemed to run with no smoking so I decided to pull the car outside and run the engine again.
I was letting the engine run, checking the coolant hose temps, testing the heater in the car, etc.
It was once again idling high (2k to 3k RPM). It was starting to get dark out and I noticed something red. The exhaust headers and left cat was glowing red.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260207/1553f3d29777a43b0684220639195c69.jpg
Just then Tam walked out and saw the same thing. She said "Is that normal?!" I said "Probably not" so I shut it off.
We did some research. Most of what we found was it means the engine running too rich so I am hoping that it is that. It also said it could be running too lean, a timing issue, or restricted exhaust system.
The guy that stopped by said I should pull my plugs, check them, and do a compression test while I have them out just for the heck of it.
I agree, this is something easy to check.
I have too vintage dwell meters but I realized that they are both inductive so I don't think they will work for measuring CO. I have an electrical meter that does dwell but the battery leaked in it so it currently doesn't work.
On top of all this I've had two guys that have years of experience working on Deloreans and specifically Stage 2 Deloreans and they said the timing and CO on a stage 2 can't really be set using the traditional methods.
I own several combustion analyzers for working on boilers and furnaces.
I got thinking that maybe I could use this to measure CO, O2, CO2, etc.
According to an internet search I can.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260207/850afcd4cda4fbcd1c6bb10cec8742c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260207/8645d134a6717d5095561c32d43d254c.jpg


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[Delorean Industries]

That converter is toast.

[Rich]

Informative photo there

You are running some expensive diagnostics. Get a handheld IR thermometer for future use before you run it again. Useful to isolate cylinder issues or variations since you are running headers vs stock exh manifolds. Also might save the other cat.

Seeing not only that you had a toasty cat, but also had only 2 of the 3 exhaust pipes were red hot. Big hint there.

Did any pipes on right bank also glow red?

Yes, do pull all of the plugs for inspection. The ones in the red cylinders might look different. And the inspection may show which cylinders, if any, are burning oil.



It was once again idling high (2k to 3k RPM). It was starting to get dark out and I noticed something red. The exhaust headers and left cat was glowing red.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260207/1553f3d29777a43b0684220639195c69.jpg

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[Helirich]

If that was just idling, I think there?s something wrong. I will say that I have seen pipes glow red like that after the engine was working hard. You won?t see it unless you have dim lighting conditions. Any chance your cat is plugged? Or the muffler?

[SupercoolBill]

If that was just idling, I think there?s something wrong. I will say that I have seen pipes glow red like that after the engine was working hard. You won?t see it unless you have dim lighting conditions. Any chance your cat is plugged? Or the muffler?High idle...idling at 2k to 2500 RPM.


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[Rich]

There's still a big hint in that photo.

#4 cylinder's exhaust isn't overheating - the shiny one behind the two red ones
#5 and #6 are overheating
the cat at the left of photo is also glowing softly
(no data on cylinders #1-3 or the right side cat)

Why would this be? How are two of those cylinders running differently from their mate? And did you look at the right bank's exhausts?

Number, pull and inspect all 6 plugs to start with.


If that was just idling, I think there?s something wrong. I will say that I have seen pipes glow red like that after the engine was working hard. You won?t see it unless you have dim lighting conditions. Any chance your cat is plugged? Or the muffler?

[SupercoolBill]

There's still a big hint in that photo.

#4 cylinder's exhaust isn't overheating - the shiny one behind the two red ones
#5 and #6 are overheating
the cat at the left of photo is also glowing softly
(no data on cylinders #1-3 or the right side cat)

Why would this be? How are two of those cylinders running differently from their mate? And did you look at the right bank's exhausts?

Number, pull and inspect all 6 plugs to start with.Yeah i am going to pull the plugs.
I have a hunch that this is what is happening-
1. The engine is running too rich
2. Some ports of the FD are feeding more than others
3. I think that the piston inside the FD is sometimes getting stuck and not dropping down onto the roller thus creating a rich condition.

We have decided to bite the bullet and just send the other FD out for a rebuild, testing, calibration. I packaged it up and sent it to DMCH today.
We also recently ordered the full roof panel kit from DMCH.
The roof panel kit is expensive to start with but then when you check out you are charged a $50.00 core charge and the shipping came to $118. All said and done $818.90 FD rebuild, another $600something. Ugh...
If I think too much about the time and money we have spent on this car it makes me feel ill. We probably could have done a year long trip around the world! [emoji1]

Oh well..as a former president of the US once said "We've got to stay the course"


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[Helirich]

I?ve always heard when a diesel runs rich, it runs hot. A gas engine is the opposite. So the hot cylinders may be running lean.

[Josh]

Hot cylinders are running lean, not rich. Since there only a few holes doing this, I think you are on the right path looking into fueling. If all 6 are doing this, it can still be fuel , but also ignition timing.

[SupercoolBill]

New parts from DMCH showed up Friday.
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[SupercoolBill]

An interesting FYI, when I bought the roof panels it showed the price w/o shipping. I knew it would be more for shipping obviously. I gave them my C.C. to secure the roof panels kit.
The total was quite a bit + $119 for shipping and I was surprised to see a $50 core charge as well. So in the end it was over $800.00.

Core charge was for these two clips.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260214/6a74adb555f595180628d530049af4c6.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I am having second thoughts about not replacing the roof box for the following reasons:
1. We already own a stainless steel roof box kit.
2. Fixing up the inside of our existing roof box through the little opening on top, with the doors in the way, is going to be a job in itself
3. I am haunted with the ghost of "While you're in there". We already have the following removed from the car: roof panels, carpets, center console, all door gaskets, T-panel, rear finishing panel. And I need to adjust the torsion rods. So it would make sense if the roof box on this car was ever going to get replaced to do it now.
4. Josh from D-Ind just posted a picture of a roof box install. Power of suggestion.

I mentioned it to Tam. She said "Do we own a roof box?" I said "Yeah". She said "How much did we pay for that?" "Uh like $1300."
She said "Well if we paid for it why aren't we using it!?"
Good question. I said "Well I figured we could replace it at some point in the future,...or sell it I suppose." She didn't say anything.
I am thinking we are just going to go for it.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260214/c68373be8e2cf250c0b3f6f0086270b2.jpg

[Timeless]

You have it so go for it especially now. I will eventually do a SS box but luckily mine is in great shape + I coated it with surface shield and bolted the rear.
My good friend has a SS box and his doors open/shut PERFECT and feel incredibly stabilized. It really is nice piece of mind as is having a rust free frame.

[SupercoolBill]

We worked on the car from 12-5 today. I removed the lift struts that came from D-Ind. They were causing the door way too fast and hard. I did the test on the doors that I had been told to do. The doors open 1.25" open at the rub strips with no lift struts installed. This is pretty close to what I have been told (2").
I put the other set back on. These are ones I bought off Ebay four years ago. As I remembered, these did not have ENOUGH lift.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260215/9030ddaa7cb853b7329e8978d69c9003.jpg
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[SupercoolBill]

Finished reassembling the right side.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260215/8b28ad3cd6e1788a29c49ac322661063.jpg
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[SupercoolBill]

I told Tam her job was to do the other strut mount reinforcement.
She tried to do it without getting inside the car for an hour then finally stopped being stubborn and got inside the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260215/1dcf7281bf40ccf19d48785aa855ae97.jpg
While she was doing that I worked on other things
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I removed all of the windshield trim to clean behind it, paint it, and reinstall with new screws. Several screws had to be ground off with the dremel.

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[SupercoolBill]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260215/06f4e1c7dea9921e01ffb856602e009a.jpg
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This fell off while working on the car.
I didn't notice how bad these jack points were. Add S.S. Jack points to the list.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260215/894c34d97eb9322f81ef15b45bf2dadd.jpg
Tam finishing up her job.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260215/82222cd91d8ee3c3a0fee0b87d0ce1a3.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

The last thing I did is prep for installing the windshield cowl.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260215/cee9280e7aa2f22d2793932201a58015.jpg
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Rubber standoffs set in place with black RTV.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260215/ade1f0903d4337ba58f80ffbe340dabd.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

While working on the car one of the jack plates just fell off the car. I don't know how I never noticed just how rusty these were.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260217/10cb201a87c66d691906fc9361c830ca.jpg

I have been hearing from a lot of owners that they really like the D-go lift struts. There is even two YouTube videos that I found. The first is the guy opening his door in cold weather the second is in warm weather. In both videos the door opens quickly, smoothly, but doesn't slam open even when warm. Their struts have dampening near the end of the extension stroke to slow the action down at the end.
Also it looks like their kit (all struts for the entire car) even come with new ball studs for some of the struts.
I checked and the struts for the fronk and rear louver are cheap struts that I bought off Ebay when we first got the car.
So I had Tam order the full set of lift struts in black, new S.S. jacking plates, and rivets.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260217/333b61692be341e70d0447f11455d268.jpg
They have an option of S.S. lift struts but they were more expensive and personally I think too much SS farkle on these cars takes away from the look. I think the black around the doors, in the fronk, etc. looks good in contrast to the S.S. exterior.

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[Helirich]

Funny to see perfection in some of your pics and pine needles in others.

[SupercoolBill]

Funny to see perfection in some of your pics and pine needles in others.Haha yup still finding these hidden area that have been untouched for 40 years.

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[SupercoolBill]

New struts and jack plates showed up the other day. Crazy quick shipping from the UK to Maine for free.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260224/dbf32d60836b5828c9cbfc867023f7c4.jpg

I decided to pop the struts on the doors and try them out.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260224/48dc883e5ae12c8a2ec48c5bd6f3057d.jpg
The lifting power seems similar to what the D-go ones were but the difference is the fluid braking during the last part of the stroke. I may back off the torsion rods a notch or two still though because it opens the door with pretty good force even in my 57 degree garage and also I am going to be replacing the lock solenoids at some point.

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[SupercoolBill]

I bead blasted some roof box parts and front cowl screws and painted them semi-gloss black with SEM Trim paint.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260224/cb927db4632e5c3b8bda0dbf931033bd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260224/fa9604bfaadf81adb260d6f0762e3a64.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

Video of door after installing D-go lift struts. 57 degrees in the shop at time of testing.

https://youtube.com/shorts/JPk4V5tnIg8?si=b_4oPqPhAnFviTK-



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[DeLoreanGo Arran]

Just note you have the struts on upside down, which will make a significant difference to the dampening action. Struts - whichever ones you use - must always be installed with the fattest part uppermost, otherwise you will lose most of the dampening action and lubrication.

[SupercoolBill]

Just note you have the struts on upside down, which will make a significant difference to the dampening action. Struts - whichever ones you use - must always be installed with the fattest part uppermost, otherwise you will lose most of the dampening action and lubrication.Ahhh....well that may make a difference. Duh I know better than that. I will switch them around.


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[SupercoolBill]

I went back and looked at my pictures with the D-Ind struts mounted and I had them on correctly.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260224/a03138e0e4436be24ec13d7557b9cd15.jpg

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[Helirich]

Just note you have the struts on upside down, which will make a significant difference to the dampening action. Struts - whichever ones you use - must always be installed with the fattest part uppermost, otherwise you will lose most of the dampening action and lubrication.

Interesting, I need to check if mine are right. I changed them all years ago.

[SupercoolBill]

I worked on the car after work for a few hours. One of the few times I have worked on it without Tam. She's fighting a cold.
I worked on the roofbox tonight.
Found some sweet metric black screws at the hardware store earlier today.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/af6fe19aa840e412eed6ed59522b25e7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/4f99f3b6dca8aa55b59f91c809246736.jpg

Removed the torsion rod on the right side. I am getting pretty comfortable with this. Not sure if that is a good thing or not.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/0899b0dfefef6c0d6682223e8fb50f81.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/993a27ea3fecd0bd9f49ce6b14790352.jpg
The rod looks like someone spray painted the rod with silver paint. I have heard that the torsion rods at stainless so I am not really sure why DMC or a previous owner would paint it so I removed the paint and any crud with scotchbrite. Hopefully that's an okay thing to do.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/8285af2d46c41bcb7aa9720839f8788c.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

I removed the torsion rod so I could assess and pull out this rubber boot that the wires run it. I didn't like how it was shaped. I fed the wires out through the roof box.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/ecc17a1cb2fb0c03e9d6e3ed25b1d43b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/e45f2b5ce268018a5e2d2b4db3eee785.jpg

I found that the top side of the rubber piece is torn.
Anyone know where I can get one of these? I am pretty sure they are NLA.

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[SupercoolBill]

I tried doing the same on the left side but I couldn't get the torsion rod to come out of the hinge. Anyone know a trick for this?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/3c5281dd099af3639385e7637c814759.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/5d167a3bd24b45156f9f82ee3e1bf42a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/4397733faab34d2b50d4e1f0c6a5b999.jpg

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[SupercoolBill]

While I was in there I drilled out the rivets on this side.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260226/053c93376de5d04cab0337da27f2c042.jpg

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