How to maintain your Delorean for less than $500 a year and put 10,000 miles on it

[stevedmc]

Actually, the stainless itself is not ferrous enough, so the magnet is attracted to the steel roof cage underneath it.

Steve isn't very intelligent.

[Dangermouse]

Stainless is made out of metal. Magnets stick to metal. I can demonstrate at DCS if you would like.

When I completed Magnets 101 at magnet school I learned that magnets don't stick to SS (or paper, plastic, small animals and a host of other items).

Funny story - my cars PO was part owner in an Irish pub. To celebrate St Patricks Day, he commissioned a bunch of large magnetic signs with the pub's name on them intending to park his Irish car outside with these themed magnets adorning it. Needless to say, it wasn't a great success.


Actually, the stainless itself is not ferrous enough, so the magnet is attracted to the steel roof cage underneath it.

Didn't think about the roof cage. Good point, though the antenna magnet must be pretty strong.

[stevedmc]

Tonight I took a little ride out to get pizza with some friends. After idling in traffic for a few minutes i noticed the temp gauge was crawling past 220 even with the fans running.

To avoid over heating I only ran the engine as needed to escape the traffic. I immediately pulled into the Holiday Inn parking lot and abandoned the car in order to go get pizza.

When I got back I put one gallon of coolant in the system. I was unable to spot any leaks due to rain so I replaced the coolant tank cap with an el cheepo spare I bout from Autozone about a month ago.

My total cost tonight was $8 for coolant and $6 for the cap. I'll update the running total next time I am on a computer.

Hopefully the issue was just related to the coolant cap. I'll go for a joy ride tomorrow to see how the cooling system performs.

It's amusing how I had zero problems on the 700 mile drive here.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $788.4332 Miles Driven: 5,841
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26

As mentioned in my previous post, I had a coolant issue shortly after arriving at DCS. The car began to overheat in traffic and the temp gauge did not move down. Upon inspection I was unable to find any leaks and both of the cooling fans were operating fine. I did find wear on the radiator cap and that the coolant was extremely low. I topped off the cooling system with one gallon of coolant and replaced the radiator cap with a $6 el cheepo cap from Autozone. Both the new radiator cap and coolant were already with me since they were part of my emergency parts I carry with me at all times. Now I need to head back to Autozone to pickup a new spare cap. That same evening I went to Walmart and purchased some spare coolant to replace what I used in the car. I estimate that I spent $8 on the coolant I used to refill the system that night.

[Dracula]

In keeping with the theme of this thread and the possibility thereof, I put a little over 3,000 miles on my car this trip and the only problem I had was that in Chicago traffic, the fuel system got too hot and the car wouldn't run until it cooled down. Keep in mind that I'd been running the car, only stopping for gas, since I left Orlando, and the first place that it had issues was Chicago.

Those issues have me contemplating a carb swap, as the fear and anger that come from being stuck in downtown Chicago with a non-running car can ruin a trip.

[Ron]

Those issues have me contemplating a carb swap, as the fear and anger that come from being stuck in downtown Chicago with a non-running car can ruin a trip.Now THAT would be taking the dark side thing too far!

[Dracula]

Now THAT would be taking the dark side thing too far!

Hardly. My area of expertise is '70s cars; it's about 75% of my business, after all, and I can service the system on the go with ease. Right now, I'm wondering why it HASN'T been done on my car already.

[Ron]

Hardly. My area of expertise is '70s cars; it's about 75% of my business, after all, and I can service the system on the go with ease. Right now, I'm wondering why it HASN'T been done on my car already.I have a taste for those and even older cars myself...it's just that for a semi/daily, I would of thought a six pack of Webbers, or, perhaps MegaSquirt would be more to your taste ;-)

[Nicholas R]

I used to always get overheating fuel pump issues. I almost didn't make it to DCS 08 because my fuel pump got so hot. ~500mi drive. I was able to borrow a hot air dam for the drive back and it went a lot better, though the drive back wasn't nearly as warm out. I'm just not a fan of that fuel pump. I think if I ever got another DeLorean, I'd probably start experimenting with other fuel pumps. Its not like other high pressure pumps arent out there. This is what I'm using now (it has a custom sleeve on it and is inside the original boot)
http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/5472225_L.jpg
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/MSD-In-Line-Hi-Pressure-Fuel-Pump,31226.html
And it's only about $100.

Flow is higher than the original but fuel distributor should be able to regulate the pressure.

[Ron]

That's wierd....Summit shows the MSD 2225 having a "Maximum Pressure" of 40psi, 43gph, while that link shows it to have a "Pressure Rating" of 85psi, 43gph.

[Dangermouse]

Steve, I don't suppose you picked up any debris on your radiator on the drive down to FL and back?

[stevedmc]

Steve, I don't suppose you picked up any debris on your radiator on the drive down to FL and back?

Nope. I only kill animals with my car once a year.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $836.8632 Miles Driven: 5,851
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43

I almost forgot to add an expense. Shame on me. At DCS Bill helped me install some new washers and bolts on my LCA outriggers. I had no idea the stuff was going to cost so much but it is what it is.

[DMCMW Dave]

Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57


If that is a stod mirror glued to the windshield, you probably ought to start to budget for a new windshield. In fact I'm surprised it hasn't cracked yet.

[stevedmc]

If that is a stod mirror glued to the windshield, you probably ought to start to budget for a new windshield. In fact I'm surprised it hasn't cracked yet.

I used a cheap adhesive pad to "glue" my stock mirror to the widshield. Bill claims to be using regular windshield glue for his mirror but I didn't want to take the risk.

[Farrar]

FWIW, I used 3M emblem tape (the grey, double-sided stuff) for my rear view mirror and still have most of the roll left over, if you need some.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $848.8432 Miles Driven: 7,177
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)

I've been out of town for the past week and after returning home I found the Delorean was suddenly having trouble starting. After messing with the carburetor I still could not get the car to reliably start. This evening I decided to check to see if I was getting spark. Low and behold, I was not getting much spark at all. I took off the distributor cap and found light corrosion on the contacts inside. After making a few phone calls to the local parts stores, I learned the only part I could purchase tonight would be an ignition rotor and there were no caps available locally. I went back outside with a piece of sanding paper and sanded the corroded contacts inside of the rotor cap. The car then started perfectly fine and I then drove it to Autozone to purchase a new ignition rotor for $10.99 plus tax. Currently the car starts great but just to be safe I will be replacing the cap as well. I have a cap on order from Oreilly's and it comes with a lifetime warranty. The only bad part about the Oreilly warranty is you have to actually save your receipt. The Autozone cap only had a 2 year warranty so I chose not to order a cap from them.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $904.2332 Miles Driven: 8,079
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)
Expense #27 (Oil Chancge and replaced distributor cap) - 52,158 - $55.39 (including tax)


Bosch 72150 Oil Filter - $5.27 - Free shipping from Amazon.com
8 Quarts of 15W40 Diesel Oil (Supertech Brand) -$25.42 Including tax (I only used 7 quarts but it was cheaper to buy two gallon size jugs of the stuff)
Oreilly Distributor Cap (Lifetime warranty) $24.70 - Including tax

Yesterday I finally got around to changing my oil. It was way over due. I mean really over due. I am now buying my oil filters from Amazon.com. Shipping is free from Amazon.com when you spend at least $25. I've decided to start using diesel engine oil as well. Diesel engine oil has zinc in it and our engines were designed back when motor oil still contained zinc. I also replaced my distributor cap a few days ago with one I purchased from Oreilly's. I ordered it online and got free shipping along with a lifetime warranty.

[stevedmc]

For my next expense I will be adding a third brake light to the car. This mod is long over due.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270992273481?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I ordered this a few days ago and was given a 5% discount. My brake light cost $3.79 and I plan to install it sometime this weekend.

I put this same LED strip on the 65 mustang about a week ago and I'm very happy with the results.

I'm tempted to glue it directly to the top of the louver. It has its own adhesive and is supposed to be weather resistant.

[Iznodmad]

For my next expense I will be adding a third brake light to the car. This mod is long over due.


Pics please when you do. I need to do this as well as an added safety benefit, since I daily drive my D. That is an amazing price you got there!

[jawn101]

For my next expense I will be adding a third brake light to the car. This mod is long over due.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270992273481?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I ordered this a few days ago and was given a 5% discount. My brake light cost $3.79 and I plan to install it sometime this weekend.

I put this same LED strip on the 65 mustang about a week ago and I'm very happy with the results.

I'm tempted to glue it directly to the top of the louver. It has its own adhesive and is supposed to be weather resistant.

Let me guess, you were drawn in by this feature:

"It will make you feel magical when driving at night with this flexible LED light strip"

[stevedmc]

Let me guess, you were drawn in by this feature:

"It will make you feel magical when driving at night with this flexible LED light strip"

No. I found out about it from a Mustang forum.

[Stainless]

Isn't the LED brake light technically a modification and not a maintenance item? I vote that you don't include it in the final cost. I just might start my own poll.

[stevedmc]

Isn't the LED brake light technically a modification and not a maintenance item? I vote that you don't include it in the final cost. I just might start my own poll.

It doesn't fall under insurance or gas so for the purpose of this thread it is recorded as an expense.

[Dangermouse]

Is it not insurance that you won't be rear ended?

[stevedmc]

Is it not insurance that you won't be rear ended?

I'm sure there is still an idiot willing to run me over even if I do have a 3rd brake light.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $911.2132 Miles Driven: 9,403
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)
Expense #27 (Oil Change and replaced distributor cap) - July 29, 2012 - 52,158 - $55.39 (including tax)
Expense #28 (r134a charge) - October 5, 2012 - 53,482 - $6.98 (including tax)

Its been a while since my last update. I still haven't gotten around to installing the third brake light but I am thinking about doing it this weekend.

On another note, 16510 has been out of service for about a month while its carburetor was on loan to another local owner. His new carburetor from Bill arrived at my house Wed night and I am currently borrowing it until we get around to swapping our stuff back. Hopefully we will be able to get together this weekend, but if not, then I will make the 800 mile drive to Lexington, NC next weekend sporting Drew's carburetor and manifold.

Since getting my car back on the road I noticed the AC was no longer blowing cold air. I've been driving since Wed night with no AC, and today after work I decided to take a look at in in the parking lot. I put the gauge on it, and fortunately there was still pressure in the system but it wasn't where it needed to be. I hooked up one 12oz can of r134a to my gauge and emptied a little over half of it into the system. The car now blows ice cold air again. Summer is almost over and this is the first time I had to top it off. I'd say $7 for one summer of AC is pretty dang good.

I need to mention that I did this in the parking lot of the chemical plant I work at. We've got all sorts of EPA people onsite, and no one came outside to arrest me.

Also, in case you are wondering, I stocked up on 12oz cans of r134a at Big Lots when they were on sale a few months back. The regular price at Big Lots is $8 for 12oz of r134a. There was a store wide sale of 20% off which brought the price down to $6.40 a can. With sales tax the price was $6.98. If I were to buy this stuff at Walmart it would be at least $10 a can and its at least $15 a can at AutoZone.

I didn't use the whole can, but for the purpose of this thread I will record the entire cost of what I opened.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $916.6532 Miles Driven: 9,438
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)
Expense #27 (Oil Change and replaced distributor cap) - July 29, 2012 - 52,158 - $55.39 (including tax)
Expense #28 (r134a charge) - October 5, 2012 - 53,482 - $6.98 (including tax)
Expense #19 (redneck cruise control bushing) - October 6, 2012 - 53,517 - $5.44 (including tax)

Today I am spending some time doing some final touches on my car before the 800 mile drive to Lexington, NC. One necessity is that I have cruise control. My cruise control consists of a bicycle gear selector connected to my stick shift that controls a bicycle cable connected directly to the throttle on my carburetor. I use a bushing to mount the bicycle gear selector to the stick shift. This bushing has been wearing out for a while now and today I decided to replace it. Unfortunately I had to purchase a set of 4 bushings at O'Reilly's to get what I needed. The total cost for the set was $4.99 before tax.

[David T]

Rigging your throttle that way can be VERY dangerous. Just about every cruise control I know of has some provision where if you hit the brakes it will disengage the throttle hold. The way you did it, mechanically, there is no way you can do that. In an emergency situation you could very easily lose control. Never mind that it is also probably illegal to do it that way. The other problem is when you go up a hill the car will slow down and when you go down a hill it will speed up. Just because you are trying to do things inexpensively is no reason to compromise safety.
David Teitelbaum

[sdg3205]

Can Steve Rice post a picture of this potential catastrophe?

[stevedmc]

Rigging your throttle that way can be VERY dangerous. Just about every cruise control I know of has some provision where if you hit the brakes it will disengage the throttle hold. The way you did it, mechanically, there is no way you can do that. In an emergency situation you could very easily lose control. Never mind that it is also probably illegal to do it that way. The other problem is when you go up a hill the car will slow down and when you go down a hill it will speed up. Just because you are trying to do things inexpensively is no reason to compromise safety.
David Teitelbaum

Had you been at DCS you would have seen Steve Rice on stage telling everyone, not to install redneck cruise control on their cars. In an emergency situation, I would slam my foot on the clutch anyway. Worst case scenario, besides wrecking the car, my engine would burn up due to a suddenly high RPM (if I didn't turn off the throttle).

While I do not recommend this to anyone, it works for me and I use it sparingly when I am coasting on a flat road. I'm not stupid enough to think the car won't slow down when I go up a hill. Remember, I am one of the people who does the majority of my own work. I'm not the type of Delorean owner who pays $100 an hour for a shop to work on my car.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $925.8832 Miles Driven: 9,446
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)
Expense #27 (Oil Change and replaced distributor cap) - July 29, 2012 - 52,158 - $55.39 (including tax)
Expense #28 (r134a charge) - October 5, 2012 - 53,482 - $6.98 (including tax)
Expense #29 (redneck cruise control bushing) - October 6, 2012 - 53,517 - $5.44 (including tax)
Expense #30 (Third brake light and AC Belt) - October 6, 2012 - 53,525 - $9.23 (including tax and shipping)



This afternoon I finally got around to installing my third brake light. I paid $3.79 for a strip of LEDS from eBay. Unfortunately it arrived with a few burnt out LEDs but I went ahead and installed it anyway. The good news is the strip still has a warranty so I just need to get around to contacting the seller. I also used a little duct tape, electrical tape, and a wire connector to install the thing. I don't think I spent more than $1 on those items but for the purpose of this thread we will say $1. Total for the third brake light is $4.79.

I also noticed that my AC belt was a little loose and had some small cracks in it. The AC has still been blowing very cold air but for preventive maintenance I went ahead and installed my spare AC belt. I really don't want to drive to North Carolina without AC. I am keeping my old AC belt in the car as a spare.

The part number for the AC belt I use is Gates 9530. If you go to Oreilly Auto Parts you can get a cheaper version of the same belt for $4.99. My cost for the belt is $5.44 after tax.

13874

[stevedmc]

Here is a picture of my redneck cruise control. Don't try this at home.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/07/5eha6a7u.jpg

[David T]

I was not the only one on this forum that did not attend DCS to hear you warn everyone about this MOD. I can appreciate you understand the danger. It is just that in an emergency you do not always think clearly but since you will instinctively slam on the brakes it makes sense to have a system that will disengage when the brakes are applied. I also disagree with your premise that a Delorean can be maintained for less than $500 a year and still use it for 10,000 miles. First of all you do not include anything for labor. Not everyone can or will do their own work. Next point, you do not allow for the wear of normal wear-out items like tires, brakes, battery, etc. Easy to get a year in for under $500 and then just buying tires will blow next year's budget! Last point, if you do your own work you should include a # for buying tools. The "secret" to keeping the cost of ownership down is preventive maintenance. Buying the cheapest parts and putting them on yourself is not the best (or only) prescription for economy. Tell Steve I said so (since you are referring to you in the 3rd person!).
David Teitelbaum

[Dracula]

Chad agrees with Steve that a DeLorean CAN be maintained on that budget and Chad has had a few under $500.00 years with his car after paying DMCMW to do all the work. Chad knows that it won't always be the case, but Chad expects the maintenance costs to decrease and Chad could have had another sub-$500.00 year this time; including having the car towed to DMCMW for fuel system work, were it not for the fuel sender failing and having to buy a new pump unit as a replacement. Chad just happens to like knowing how much gas Chad has in Chad's DeLorean's tank.

[stevedmc]

I was not the only one on this forum that did not attend DCS to hear you warn everyone about this MOD. I can appreciate you understand the danger. It is just that in an emergency you do not always think clearly but since you will instinctively slam on the brakes it makes sense to have a system that will disengage when the brakes are applied. I also disagree with your premise that a Delorean can be maintained for less than $500 a year and still use it for 10,000 miles. First of all you do not include anything for labor. Not everyone can or will do their own work. Next point, you do not allow for the wear of normal wear-out items like tires, brakes, battery, etc. Easy to get a year in for under $500 and then just buying tires will blow next year's budget! Last point, if you do your own work you should include a # for buying tools. The "secret" to keeping the cost of ownership down is preventive maintenance. Buying the cheapest parts and putting them on yourself is not the best (or only) prescription for economy. Tell Steve I said so (since you are referring to you in the 3rd person!).
David Teitelbaum

People who pay others to do work usually don't follow "how toos".

If you want to spend less than $500 a year do the work yourself. If you want to spend more than $500 a year pay a vendor.

You obviously didn't read the first 30 posts on this thread. You are just repeating what others have said.

How many miles have you driven a Delorean this year?

[David T]

I drove my Delorean about 500 miles this year so far. It only has 13,xxx miles on it. I am limited by my insurance company to 2,500 miles per year. So far this year I have spent nothing on it except insurance and gas. Registration is free because it is registered as Historic so it can't be a daily driver. I expect to spend a little to change the oil, filter, and brake fluid before I put it away for the Winter after this year's parade. I do agree with you that you can keep expenses below $500 a year if you take care of the car (especially if you do your own work) but once in a while you still have to buy tires or replace the water pump or something like that and it will blow that year's budget. I do it on my daily drivers too. It is rare that I have to spend any big bucks except on wearable items. On my Yukon the fuel pump went bad recently. The Dealer wanted $475 just for the "assembly". Labor involved dropping the tank so that was another approx $400. I got the fuel pump for $225 from GMCDirect and did it myself.
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

The Dealer wanted $475 just for the "assembly". Labor involved dropping the tank so that was another approx $400. I got the fuel pump for $225 from GMCDirect and did it myself.

Based on some people's logic, it still cost you $875 to replace the fuel pump since spent your time (which is worth money) replacing the fuel pump. Your best value would have been to find someone willing to do the work for free.

[David T]

You got me there! Maybe if I was to put a carburetor on it I could get Steve and Bill to do the labor! I didn't mind doing the work actually. The way see it the time it took me do the job was probably less than the time it would have taken me to take the car to the dealer, drop it off and pick it up.
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

Did you factor into the price your tools? It probably cost you over a thousand to do the job. You could have gotten the whole thing done for $875 and it would have been much cheaper than buying tools. You forgot to count the expense of breakfast and lunch. I'm guessing you had to feed yourself and that must have cost money too. Don't forget that you also had to provide housing for yourself the night before you did the job. What did that cost? Did you take a shower after doing the work? Surely you used soap and water. Everyone knows it isn't free to take a shower. You really did get ripped off. Next time you need something done save yourself a bundle of money and just pay a mechanic $100 an hour.

[Tillsy]

Did you factor into the price your tools? It probably cost you over a thousand to do the job. You could have gotten the whole thing done for $875 and it would have been much cheaper than buying tools. You forgot to count the expense of breakfast and lunch. I'm guessing you had to feed yourself and that must have cost money too. Don't forget that you also had to provide housing for yourself the night before you did the job. What did that cost? Did you take a shower after doing the work? Surely you used soap and water. Everyone knows it isn't free to take a shower. You really did get ripped off. Next time you need something done save yourself a bundle of money and just pay a mechanic $100 an hour.

I hate to be Captain obvious, but even if you pay a mechanic $100 an hour you will still eat your lunch that day and sleep in your own home with all its expenses. You can only classify these as savings if you starve yourself and rent your house out for the duration the mechanic is working on your car.

[stevedmc]

I hate to be Captain obvious, but even if you pay a mechanic $100 an hour you will still eat your lunch that day and sleep in your own home with all its expenses. You can only classify these as savings if you starve yourself and rent your house out for the duration the mechanic is working on your car.

And I'm going to have tools around my house whether or not I own a Delorean because I am a man. Its David T that wants the play the silly game of nickel and dime-ing, not me.

[David T]

I don't mean to be "playing a silly game" by accounting for expenses. You seem to be very exacting in keeping track of all of your expenses for the parts you buy. I am only pointing out that if you do the work yourself on your car there are some tools and supplies you need to buy even if you are a MAN and have tools around the house. When you pay a shop to work on your car THEY have to buy the tools that they use on your car and that is hidden in the price you pay them to work on your car. Along with shop supplies like rags, solvent, gloves, disposal costs, rent, etc. For a fair comparison you should include at least something for that. The big advantage to doing your own work (assuming you can do it competently) is you do not have to pay the shop it's profit or any tax on labor. You can also price the parts better, most shops will buy parts at a discount and charge the customer list. Then there is the whole honesty issue, is the shop really fixing the car as inexpensively and efficiently as it can? On the other side, are you able to fix it the first time and not replace good parts till you accidentally replace the bad part or are you getting it right all the time? This whole premise is meant for only a qualified few who are able to fix a car and have enough tools and expertise and a place to work. It also assumes you are not doing a "Rolling Restoration". The majority of owners do not meet this criteria. But it is an interesting exercise.
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

I thought I was also supposed to include labor in my cost. If you don't like this thread then I suggest you start your own and list every tool you own and what you paid for it.

[David T]

You don't include your labor, that is the whole point of doing your own work. What I am trying to say to you is that included in a shops' labor rate is a bunch of other "hidden" expenses that anyone will incur who does work. As a fair comparison you should include them along with the price of parts. Or at least attempt to. It is not that I dislike this thread, I am trying to help you make it a more accurate comparison. As for including every tool, they are "amortized" over many years and cars so you cannot directly apply each and every tool. Specialized ones such as the drain plug adapter which is ONLY used on the Delorean are easier to figure. Try to look at it from a shop's position. They have to cover every cost AND make a profit. They do not itemize every expense. There is a lot more to this than the price of parts and a shop's posted labor rate.
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

You don't include your labor, that is the whole point of doing your own work. What I am trying to say to you is that included in a shops' labor rate is a bunch of other "hidden" expenses that anyone will incur who does work. As a fair comparison you should include them along with the price of parts. Or at least attempt to. It is not that I dislike this thread, I am trying to help you make it a more accurate comparison. As for including every tool, they are "amortized" over many years and cars so you cannot directly apply each and every tool. Specialized ones such as the drain plug adapter which is ONLY used on the Delorean are easier to figure. Try to look at it from a shop's position. They have to cover every cost AND make a profit. They do not itemize every expense. There is a lot more to this than the price of parts and a shop's posted labor rate.
David Teitelbaum

So start a thread and do it.

[ccurzio]

So start a thread and do it.

While I don't disagree with this, at the same time you shouldn't start a thread on a discussion forum if you're not interested in discussing your posts.

[DrJeff]

Restating the question should help.

"Can an amateur car/motor enthusiast with only commonly available tools keep a Delorean running10,000 miles per year, for less than $500 out-of-pocket?"

Isn't this the question that most of us would like to know? BTW, my garage looks nothing like the garage pictures that others have shared. For mine imagine a classic suburban 2 car garage with a Delorean parked in the middle, surrounded on both sides by some tools but mostly years of accumulated boxes, kids bikes, and yard junk.

[stevedmc]

While I don't disagree with this, at the same time you shouldn't start a thread on a discussion forum if you're not interested in discussing your posts.

I'm all for discussing my posts but some people insist on knocking other people's ideas. Dave should already be pleased that I'm almost at twice my budget for the year. Frankly, he and many others have already won, yet he still insists that I'm doing things wrong because I'm not doing it his way.

[stevedmc]

David can't really be characterized as having a "thinking outside the box" approach to automotive maintenance and repair. He is much more "by the book."

While there's nothing wrong with "by the book," it *IS* more expensive than "thinking outside the box."

Steve Rice and Bill Robertson can very definitely be characterized as "thinking outside the box." Whatever anyone wants to say about Steve Rice's and Bill Robertson's approach to automotive maintenance and repair, it *IS* less expensive than "by the book."

Spec .01 exhaust is a perfect example. Spec .01 is true dual exhaust, 100% stainless steel, but only costs a fraction of vendor dual exhaust options (less than $200).

Of course carburetion, after the initial conversion cost (it *DOES* require replacing everything from the heads north, including a hand made intake manifold of totally different design) is significantly less expensive than many owners' experience with K-Jet.

Other examples abound: single piece speedometer cable for $7. Heater core shutoff valve for $10 (that won't ever leak). Ice cold A/C for $12. Etc.

Thinking outside the box also includes modifying the original design to improve it. The Byrne Heninger/Ed Uding front suspension combo is a perfect example of that. Combined with a vibration reducing steering column, the DeLorean driving experience is revolutionized (or so other owners who have driven Steve Rice's and Bill Robertson's cars have reported).

There is nothing strange or mysterious about DeLoreans. Anyone with typical tools -- and a "thinking outside the box" approach to automotive maintenance and repair -- can put thousands of miles every year on his DeLorean with very little expenditure of time or money. Bill Robertson doesn't even have a garage! (Yet).

[David T]

I am all for thinking about and exploring "out of the box" solutions. That is what this thread is all about. When I give advice I try to be conservative, not everyone has the same level of abilities and I can't know what any particular reader's skill level is. That is why I tend to give "conservative" advice, it is more widely useful. On this thread there are some basic accounting procedures that should be followed to do a fair comparison. Teaching or giving advice on accounting is way beyond what you can expect on this forum. BTW, when I give advice I also have to be sensitive to possible dangers that a novice can get into and try to help the reader avoid them along with the obvious stuff we all learn from experience. Take this as a positive critique, I am not trying to criticize you, it is a worthy attempt which we can all learn from. Maybe your problem is your initial conditions. If you start off with a well maintained car it will be easier to keep it running (and cheaper) than a car that is not in good condition. This can be a big trap for any new owners. They get a car and spend all of their money on it to buy it and don't have enough left over for the inevitable repairs an old car requires. It becomes a "Rolling Restoration" and is unreliable and gets them stuck everywhere. Eventually they get so disillusioned they give up. What your experiment has revealed is that you must overestimate your repair budget or you will be disappointed.
David Teitelbaum

[thirdmanj]

Please direct your "inside the box" solutions to the following thread:

dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5420-How-to-maintain-a-Delorean-for-more-than-500-year-and-put-under-2-500-miles-on-it

Stevedmc, Troll level: God...

[stevedmc]

... It becomes a "Rolling Restoration" and is unreliable and gets them stuck everywhere. Eventually they get so disillusioned they give up....

A "rolling restoration" is not unreliable. In fact quite the opposite: it is very reliable, but cosmetically challenged.

Bill Robertson's car has been a rolling restoration since 2002. But that never stopped him from driving it, including driving 1,200 miles round trip to New Jersey twice a year to see you. Bill's car may not have had headliners for several years, his seats didn't get recovered until 2008, he had to rattle can his fascias (then decided that worked pretty well, so they've been rattle canned ever since), etc, but Bill's car has never been unreliable. His "rolling restoration" has actually been one of the more reliable DeLoreans on the road.

A rolling restoration is arguably better than an attempted start to finish restoration in which the owner runs out of money or interest before completion. The sordid annals of DeLorean history are full of examples of that.

[stevedmc]

In about two hours I will be leaving for Atlanta. It would be silly to embark on a 2,000 mile trip without a little prep work.

I just installed 6 new intake O rings, put 3 helicoils in my intake valley (I did one earlier this year and was too lazy to do the rest back then), and installed an emergency hood release cable.

I've got to cut grass and pack some clothes before I leave. I'll update the exact cost sometime during my journey.

[Jeff K]

Hey Steve - can you post a link to the "vibration reducing steering column" you mention?

Thanks
Jeff

[David T]

Not all rolling restos are "just" cosmetically challanged. All too often I see many mechanical things that should be attended to and the owner says he just hasn't gotten to it yet. I agree cosmetic items don't affect the car's reliability but that is not what I was talking about. Using Steve and Bill as examples of reliability is not good because I would guess in most cases if they had a problem on the road they would be able to get themselves going again. Most owners are not as capable.
David Teitelbaum

[Nicholas R]

I have to say that to a certain degree, I agree with Dave. Presently we have ambiguity in the term "rolling restoration." Clearly there are many different types of rolling restorations.

My dad has a 60 vette that we're restoring that starts, runs, rolls, and even moves under it's own power... but the fiberglass body is still in the paint shop. We consider it a rolling restoration.

My buddy has a 73 charger that cosmetically is in great shape, but mechanically, we still have trouble keeping it running and setting into idle. Also the brakes need serious work. Despite the fact that its unreliability, we can move it around and drive it short distances. We consider it a rolling restoration.

Before my engine swap, my car was always far more challenged mechanically than cosmetically. It was a beautiful car show car but I certainly still had plenty of bugs to work out; a few that bit me in the ass. I always considered it a rolling restoration. Hell I still consider it a rolling restoration.

Bottom line is that all "rolling restorations" are not equal. Some are rough on the outside, some are rough on the inside, and some are rough on both.

[stevedmc]

... Most owners are not as capable.

They could be. There is nothing special about Steve and Bill. They are not rocket scientists.

What Steve and Bill do have is:
- Paucity of cash
- Intimate familiarity with DeLorean design
- Willingness to think outside the box
- Limited time to devote to the car
- Extreme aversion to putting something badly designed back in its original configuration if/when it is apart
- A marked habit of driving long distances in the middle of the night (hence the real spare tires -- it's kind of hard to buy replacement DeLorean tires at 2:00 in the morning when you're thousands of miles from home)
- No preconceived notions about DeLorean right or wrong, no beholdeness to DeLorean dogma, no concerns about ruffling DeLorean purists' feathers
- Low cost, reliable, and out of the way carburetors instead of K-Jet (you don't hear Steve and Bill moaning and bewailing about changing their distributor caps, accessing their slave cylinders, pulling spark plug #4, etc)

Every single person on this forum could have that same list if he wanted.

[stevedmc]

Hey Steve - can you post a link to the "vibration reducing steering column" you mention?

http://www.borgeson.com Ask for Gil (he's the Borgeson rep who fills Toby's orders).

Our U joints aren't on the website. These are the part numbers you need:

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/550868_419366788108577_1213704449_n.jpg

Vibration reducing U joint is on the left.

[Jeff K]

Thanks!
Jeff

[stevedmc]

No problem. On another note, my speedometer started acting funny about 30 miles ago.

At first it died completely. Minutes later it started working again but is now very bouncy. I suspect it is either the dust cap or a loose cable since it started working again.

I'm currently in Newnam, GA. I plan to look at the problem if I'm able to meet up with Ron tomorrow Otherwise it will have to wait until Saturday.

[Nicholas R]

No problem. On another note, my speedometer started acting funny about 30 miles ago.

At first it died completely. Minutes later it started working again but is now very bouncy. I suspect it is either the dust cap or a loose cable since it started working again.

I'm currently in Newnam, GA. I plan to look at the problem if I'm able to meet up with Ron tomorrow Otherwise it will have to wait until Saturday.

I would lube the cable(s) ASAP. If you're starting to bind up for some reason, you're not too far from a broken angle drive. :banghead:

[stevedmc]

I would lube the cable(s) ASAP. If you're starting to bind up for some reason, you're not too far from a broken angle drive. :banghead:

I have the long speedometer cable. Any suggestions on what product to use? I don't have any lubricant with me but am planning to stop at Walmart this morning.

Can I just disconnect the cable from the angle drive and lube there or do I need to disconnect the cable from the instrument cluster?

[Morpheus]

You will have better results lubing the cable from the speedo end. You know, gravity and all. :)

[stevedmc]

Look at Ron in action. I have better pictures but they aren't G rated.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/13/nevajabe.jpg

[stevedmc]

Josh was kind enough to bring some spare parts to today's tech session. I discovered that my dust shield for the speedometer was broken and I replace it a few minutes ago.

Here is a pic of where the speedometer currently is. I estimate it hasn't been turning for about 150 miles.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/14/a5yse7up.jpg

[stevedmc]

You can't trust DeLorean odometer readings. Bill Robertson drove more than half a decade without a working angle drive (in the bad old days they cost more than $300 -- credit John Hervey for bringing the price down). Bill's odometer currently reads 43K, but actual mileage on the vehicle is closer to 100K.

[stevedmc]

That dust cap from Josh did a great job tonight. I drove almost four hours on it tonight with zero problems.

I've only got about a thousand more miles of driving until I get home.

Tomorrow I'm making a 5.5 hour drive from Charleston, WV to Evansville, IN.

Mountain driving is rough for a Louisiana boy but thankfully the car and my little carburetor are holding up fine.

I miss being able to use my redneck cruise control. There is a very good reason for not calling it a hillbilly cruise control.

[stevedmc]

It is a tad ironic that some of the more vocal critics of carburetion readily admit only driving their DeLoreans a couple hundred miles per year (some critics don't even have a running DeLorean, if they have a DeLorean at all). Empirical evidence and the historical record show that carbureted DeLoreans are regularly driven thousands of miles per year trouble free.

No one is saying that other forms of fuel delivery can't do the same -- only that carburetion has proven in the real world to be far better than some of its more vocal critics claim.

[stevedmc]

I can't remember if I mentioned it or not, but yesterday someone pointed out to me that my AC belt was rubbing on one of my water pump hoses. There is a tiny nick on the driver side hose that isn't leaking but I am concerned about it.

Yesterday, before leaving Darren's house, I cleaned up the hose and tightly wrapped the hose with Gorilla tape. I also repositioned the hose mount so the hose if farther from the belt. My plan today is to pickup a spare driver side coolant hose to carry with me the rest of the trip just in-case.

I don't plan to change the hose unless I need to since it is a somewhat nasty job.

I've decided to also pickup a passenger side hose as well just in case.

I am currently in Charleston, WV. The hose made the 4 hour drive up here without any problems so I hope it continues to last.

After doing some research I believe I have found suitable cross reference parts. The bad news, is the closes store I can find with the parts are in Lexington, KY. The good news is, I will be able to stop and get some genuine Kentucky Fried chicken while I am there.

It is about a 3 hour drive (175 miles) from Charleston, WV to Lexington, KY. I plan to continue traveling to Evansville, IN and will stop there for the night.

Here is the cross reference information. I will update my cross reference spreadsheet with the info when I get around to it and verify the parts are suitable.


Driver Side Radiator Hose
-Upper Hose
1969 Ford LTD 5.8L
Gates 20983

Passenger Side Radiator Hose
-Upper Hose
1978 Chevrolet C30 Pickup RWD V8 5.7L Vin Z 350ci MFI Diesel
Gates 21262

I've checked and Oreilly's seems to be the best place to get these parts. The Autozone stuff looks to be generic and the bends might not work too good.

[stevedmc]

A few miles ago my alternator belt popped. Fortunately I carry spare belts.

It took me about 20 minutes to pull over, change the belt, and wash my hands.

Needless to say, I will be purchasing a new spare belt sometime today.

My odometer currently reads 54,783.

[Michael Babb]

I can't remember if I mentioned it or not, but yesterday someone pointed out to me that my AC belt was rubbing on one of my water pump hoses. There is a tiny nick on the driver side hose that isn't leaking but I am concerned about it.

Yesterday, before leaving Darren's house, I cleaned up the hose and tightly wrapped the hose with Gorilla tape. I also repositioned the hose mount so the hose if farther from the belt. My plan today is to pickup a spare driver side coolant hose to carry with me the rest of the trip just in-case.


That was me! I was actually reading through this to see how you were doing on your trip, and hoping I did not hear that you had additional hose problems.

Good luck with the rest of the drive, and thanks for helping me out with the flasher module.

[stevedmc]

That was me! I was actually reading through this to see how you were doing on your trip, and hoping I did not hear that you had additional hose problems.

Good luck with the rest of the drive, and thanks for helping me out with the flasher module.

No problem man. I'm glad I could help out.

Thanks for pointing out the coolant hose too. I stopped in Lexington, KY to purchase some cross referenced hoses yesterday and I also stocked up on connectors, hand cleaner, hose clamps, and I purchased an alternator belt to replace the one I used yesterday. So far the car is holding up pretty dang good.

I may not even change out the hose when I get home if it survives the trip. I've got 800 more miles and 12 hours to see what happens.

[tyb323]

It is a tad ironic that some of the more vocal critics of carburetion readily admit only driving their DeLoreans a couple hundred miles per year (some critics don't even have a running DeLorean, if they have a DeLorean at all). Empirical evidence and the historical record show that carbureted DeLoreans are regularly driven thousands of miles per year trouble free.

No one is saying that other forms of fuel delivery can't do the same -- only that carburetion has proven in the real world to be far better than some of its more vocal critics claim.

Now I don't want to say this too loudly, as my hideously unreliable Delorean is only 30 miles away from me and may decide to be tricky again BUT!

Hot start issue year one, Grady fixed it, gave kjet a once over, 5 years later and thousands of miles, no (kjet) problems to speak of! A well maintained kjet can run just as well as a carb without smelling like a go kart. But to all the carb haters,:don't even start, their carbs can get them places with less maintenance and trouble than a kjet would if things went south(like that homage there, Steve Rice?)

[stevedmc]

As a courtesy for K-Jetters who have never seen them but only felt them while groping around underneath their intake manifolds, this is what the distributor cap and slave cylinder look like (bleeder screw is facing the camera with a rubber tip on the end):

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/536382_464664203578835_1633859446_n.jpg

[stevedmc]

Bill Robertson reports that even though the sun has already dropped below the horizon he just replaced his cap & rotor for next weekend's 1,500 mile trip to/from New York, including replacing a distributor cap boot with a small split in it. Took about 15 minutes (boot was obstreperous to go on).

[stevedmc]

Steve Rice and his carburetor are indeed headed south, on interstate 55 that is.

[SamHill]

Steve Rice and his carburetor are indeed headed south, on interstate 55 that is.

Steve, did you note what mileage was on your odo before your trip?

[stevedmc]

I think it's documented somewhere on this thread. Odometer is currently at 55,316.

[stevedmc]

Sometimes, Steve Rice hates carburetors.

[stevedmc]

Steve Rice needs to mentally add 150 miles driven with a rounded out dust cap to his odometer reading.

[Ron]

Use a drill motor...

[stevedmc]

Unwinds the spindle cable (too many RPM's).

[Ron]

Use a variable speed drill motor...

[stevedmc]

Use a variable speed drill motor...

Or just don't care. There are plenty of Deloreans out there that don't have working speedometers anyway.

On another note, my speedometer finally started acting up again. For a few miles it started bouncing around and then started working perfectly again. This was about 200 to 300 miles ago. My guess is those plastic dust caps get tired of turning a piece of metal after 3 or 4 hours of nearly non-stop driving. Plastic becomes soft when it gets hot and I can imagine there is a lot of friction going on where the metal cable goes into the plastic cap.

When I installed the new dust cap I could tell the angle drive cable was a little loose, but at the time it was able to stay in there without stripping anything. When I get home, I am going to take the angle drive cable and JB Weld it into the cap. Right now I'm in West Memphis and have no desire to go searching for a Walmart and Jack the car up. As of right now the speedometer is working fine but I wouldn't be surprised if it started acting up again tomorrow.

[stevedmc]

Bill Robertson has a JB Welded dust cap. He made it by inserting a piece of smooth sided 1/8" square brass tube from a hobby shop into the JB Weld while it was wet, then pulling it out when the JB Weld had dried. It's a very snug fit on the spindle cable, but there is now absolutely no slop between his spindle cable and his dust cap whatsoever.

[Iznodmad]

I'm glad you are making these posts about your intermittent angle drive. I too am having intermittent failures and I had convinced myself it was the dust cap only. I talked with another owner at the tech session and he said his AD was culprit from intermittent failure. My only other experience with AD failure was sudden and permanent. I was supposed to get a dust cap from Josh, but he sold the only two he brought with him to the tech session. Now I am more suspect of the AD itself. I have a replacement AD, perhaps I should just replace it and see if that solves the issue. I wish I would have gotten more done to my cars at the session. Dang.

[Delorean Industries]

I'm glad you are making these posts about your intermittent angle drive. I too am having intermittent failures and I had convinced myself it was the dust cap only. I talked with another owner at the tech session and he said his AD was culprit from intermittent failure. My only other experience with AD failure was sudden and permanent. I was supposed to get a dust cap from Josh, but he sold the only two he brought with him to the tech session. Now I am more suspect of the AD itself. I have a replacement AD, perhaps I should just replace it and see if that solves the issue. I wish I would have gotten more done to my cars at the session. Dang.

I wish we could have stayed another day. We drove through the night because I scheduled a exhaust install at 10am on Sunday..... We are coming back that way for a number of cars. If we can time it with your schedule I can have Steve stop and address it for you.

[Iznodmad]

That is first class customer service Josh. Keep me informed please on the proper timing required. I'm also trying to enlist the help of Walter since he is in town for the rest of the week.

[stevedmc]

Bill's odometer currently reads 43K, but actual mileage on the vehicle is closer to 100K.

Bill's odometer now reads 46K. He has driven 3,000 miles since DCS.

[stevedmc]

Angle drive has been holding up fine today. I suspect the problem is just a design defect with those plastic dust caps. I you ask me, the part where the angle drive shaft connects should be metal. Plastic becomes soft when exposed to heat/friction for extended amounts of time.

My current mileage is 55,505 and my oil still looks good. I haven't added one drop of oil to my engine since my last oil change. I was thinking of doing an oil change in route but it looks so good right now that I'm not going to worry about it.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/17/e8y9enu9.jpg

[stevedmc]

A properly jetted 1.08" venturi Motorcraft 2100 carburetor on a 2.85 liter PRV, especially combined with HEI, burns very clean -- oil lasts just as long as any other form of properly functioning fuel delivery.

[stevedmc]

Safely made it home and the odometer now reads 55,722. It's time for an oil change so I decided to park in the grass.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/17/yvy7ebev.jpg

[DMCMW Dave]

Safely made it home and the odometer now reads 55,722. It's time for an oil change so I decided to park in the grass.


You dump your waste oil on the lawn?

[stevedmc]

You dump your waste oil on the lawn?

Nope. I change oil in my back yard to prevent drips from getting on my driveway/carport.

It's easier to clean dirt.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/17/7u7a7eva.jpg

[Dangermouse]

You dump your waste oil on the lawn?

Steve's hoping to be the next Bayou Billionaire

[ccurzio]

Nope. I change oil in my back yard to prevent drips from getting on my driveway/carport.

It's easier to clean dirt.


Yeah, to hell with the water table.

I'll take drips on my driveway over polluting my own yard any day.

[stevedmc]

Where does oil on your driveway go when it rains?

[David T]

The plastic dust shield should not be a problem. It should not heat up from friction. If the metal core is turning in the dust shield it is because there is a problem "upstream" causing it to be hard to turn and eventually the plastic fails. reenforcing the dust shield only moves the "weak link" without fixing the problem. If you are having problems with the dust shield and you have a one piece cable, you probably have problems in the speedometer head or the angle drive. The other thing I have seen is that the inner core does not go deeply enough into the dust shield. If it is not deep enough it can turn in the square hole and round it out. Lubricate the angle drive and check the dust shield. Another thing I have seen is the whole dust shield is not captured tightly between the hub and the rim and it spins. Wrap the circumference with a little electrical tape.
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

The plastic dust shield should not be a problem. It should not heat up from friction. If the metal core is turning in the dust shield it is because there is a problem "upstream" causing it to be hard to turn and eventually the plastic fails. reenforcing the dust shield only moves the "weak link" without fixing the problem. If you are having problems with the dust shield and you have a one piece cable, you probably have problems in the speedometer head or the angle drive. The other thing I have seen is that the inner core does not go deeply enough into the dust shield. If it is not deep enough it can turn in the square hole and round it out. Lubricate the angle drive and check the dust shield. Another thing I have seen is the whole dust shield is not captured tightly between the hub and the rim and it spins. Wrap the circumference with a little electrical tape.
David Teitelbaum

Steve Rice might not have a brain but Steve Rice is not stupid.

1. Steve Rice noticed a small gap between the dust shield and the cable when he installed it. He put some platic wrap in the dust shield to help it seat better.

2. Steve Rice disconnected the long speedometer cable and was going to grease it until he realized it was moving freely.

3. Steve Rice has one of the new/improved John Hervey angle drives. Steve Rice talked to John Hervey on the phone before ordering it, and per John's instructions, his angle drives are never to be greased.

4. Steve Rice has always wrapped the edge of his dust caps with electrical tape until this weekend. Steve Rice hasn't inspected his dust cap but he suspects the inside of it is slighty rounged out. Steve Rice will put some JB Weld in there if thats the case.

[stevedmc]

Bill Robertson may be banned for all time, but if he were here he would point out that even a brand new dust cap from Houston fits very loosely on the spindle cable. That is why he JB Welded his brand new dust cap before putting it into service, and it now fits very snugly.

[ccurzio]

Where does oil on your driveway go when it rains?

Oil doesn't go on my driveway since I lay down cover when I do an oil change.

Back when I DID get a nasty spill on my driveway, I sopped up the excess with shop towels and used clean-up granules to soak up the rest. I also disposed of all of the soiled stuff properly. (For free.)

I don't delude myself into thinking no oil got into the ground, but certainly far less than would have had I been doing it in the yard. So now I just lay down cover.

[Dangermouse]

Nope. I change oil in my back yard to prevent drips from getting on my driveway/carport.

It's easier to clean dirt.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/17/7u7a7eva.jpg

I would just like to compliment Steve on posting the worst photo ever on either .com or .org. It looks like your oil stain is 6 feet behind the ramps, which is pretty impressive.

[stevedmc]

Oil doesn't go on my driveway since I lay down cover when I do an oil change.

Back when I DID get a nasty spill on my driveway, I sopped up the excess with shop towels and used clean-up granules to soak up the rest. I also disposed of all of the soiled stuff properly. (For free.)

I don't delude myself into thinking no oil got into the ground, but certainly far less than would have had I been doing it in the yard. So now I just lay down cover.

So where does the oil go when you dispose of or wash your rags.

[David T]

If the square shaft goes deeply enough into the cap it should not be loose. Tightening it up with some epoxy is OK, just do something so you do not glue the cap onto the shaft so you can disassemble things without breaking them in the future if necessary. I don't like using tape on the square shaft , it is kind of squishy, especially if it gets hot and gets messy. Turning the inner core by hand is not a great test of how tight or loose it is. When it is spinning fast it can get harder to spin. It can't hurt to lubricate the cable. I had a car that was eating angle drives and dust caps. It turned out to be some parts came loose in the speedometer head and were jamming it making it hard to turn.
David Teitelbaum

[ccurzio]

So where does the oil go when you dispose of or wash your rags.

Steve Rice's lack of a brain is preventing him from reading:


I also disposed of all of the soiled stuff properly. (For free.)

My local Autozone has a tank where you can dump off your used oil for recycling as well as a collection area for proper chemical disposal of soiled rags and towels.

[stevedmc]

Steve Rice's lack of a brain is preventing him from reading:



My local Autozone has a tank where you can dump off your used oil for recycling as well as a collection area for proper chemical disposal of soiled rags and towels.

Did your vehicle emit any pollution while driving to AutoZone?

[ccurzio]

Did your vehicle emit any pollution while driving to AutoZone?

Yes it did, and it was the same amount it would have been in either case since I go there to buy oil, and I recycle the old stuff when I go. And your argument is about to be cut off before you even attempt it because if "x" equals the amount of pollution caused by emissions and "n" equals the amount of pollution caused by oil spillage:

(x + n) > x.

I'd say nice try, but you never even got the chance.

[stevedmc]

Yes it did, and it was the same amount it would have been in either case since I go there to buy oil, and I recycle the old stuff when I go. And your argument is about to be cut off before you even attempt it because if "x" equals the amount of pollution caused by emissions and "n" equals the amount of pollution caused by oil spillage:

(x + n) > x.

I'd say nice try, but you never even got the chance.

Your math is all messed up.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $931.4432 Miles Driven: 9,446
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)
Expense #27 (Oil Change and replaced distributor cap) - July 29, 2012 - 52,158 - $55.39 (including tax)
Expense #28 (r134a charge) - October 5, 2012 - 53,482 - $6.98 (including tax)
Expense #29 (redneck cruise control bushing) - October 6, 2012 - 53,517 - $5.44 (including tax)
Expense #30 (Third brake light and AC Belt) - October 6, 2012 - 53,525 - $9.23 (including tax and shipping)
Expense #31 (6 new intake O rings, 3 helicoils in intake valley, and emergency hood release cable) - October 11, 2012 - XX,XXX - $5.56


10-11-12
I installed 6 new intake O rings, put 3 new helicoils in my intake valley (I did one earlier this year and was too lazy to do the rest back then), and installed an emergency hood release cable.

The complete cost of the heli coil kit was included in expense #11 therefore I am not adding it in this report. Before I departed for my 2k mile trip I replaced my intake O rings and installed an emergency hood release cable. The hood release cable is just a wire connected directly to the latch. I estimate it was less than a dollar worth of wire but for the purpose of this thread I'll say $1. The O rings cost me a little over $18 (including shipping) from McMaster for a bag of 25. I'll round the cost of the bag up to $19 since I don't remember the exact total. This makes the cost 76 cents per O ring. Total cost for these expenses is $5.56.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $926.8832 Miles Driven: 9,446
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)
Expense #27 (Oil Change and replaced distributor cap) - July 29, 2012 - 52,158 - $55.39 (including tax)
Expense #28 (r134a charge) - October 5, 2012 - 53,482 - $6.98 (including tax)
Expense #29 (redneck cruise control bushing) - October 6, 2012 - 53,517 - $5.44 (including tax)
Expense #30 (Third brake light and AC Belt) - October 6, 2012 - 53,525 - $9.23 (including tax and shipping)
Expense #31 (6 new intake O rings, 3 helicoils in intake valley, and emergency hood release cable) - October 11, 2012 - XX,XXX - $5.56
Expense #32 (replaced speedometer dust cap, patched water pump hose) - October 13, 2012 - XX,XXX - $1


(Lexington, NC)

10-13-12 Replaced speedometer dust cap with free part, courtesy of Josh at DPI.

Noticed a small nick on one of my water pump hoses due to the AC belt rubbing against it. I wrapped the hose with Gorilla tape and continued my 2k mile journey. I picked up some spare hoses after leaving Lexington, but honestly I was too lazy to replace the hose on the side of the road. I'll replace the hose when I get around to it. I didn't use much tape but for the purpose of this thread we will say $1.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $931.3232 Miles Driven: 10,704
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)
Expense #27 (Oil Change and replaced distributor cap) - July 29, 2012 - 52,158 - $55.39 (including tax)
Expense #28 (r134a charge) - October 5, 2012 - 53,482 - $6.98 (including tax)
Expense #29 (redneck cruise control bushing) - October 6, 2012 - 53,517 - $5.44 (including tax)
Expense #30 (Third brake light and AC Belt) - October 6, 2012 - 53,525 - $9.23 (including tax and shipping)
Expense #31 (6 new intake O rings, 3 helicoils in intake valley, and emergency hood release cable) - October 11, 2012 - XX,XXX - $5.56
Expense #32 (replaced speedometer dust cap, patched water pump hose) - October 13, 2012 - XX,XXX - $1
Expense #33 (replaced alternator belt) - October 14, 2012 - 54,783 - $5.44

Somewhere in Kentucky

10-14-12 Alternator belt popped somewhere in Kentucky. Pulled over to the side of the road and spent a meer 20 minutes changing the belt. This included my time talking with two people who pulled over, peeing on the side of the road, and washing my hands. The cost for the belt is $5.44 (including tax). I use Gates part #7495 at Oreilly's. This part number will give you the option for a premium belt that costs $18.99 (3 year warranty) or a value priced belt for $4.99 (one year warranty). Ironically, the packaging on the cheap belt says it is made by Gates which also makes the premium belt.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $951.1532 Miles Driven: 11,643
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)
Expense #27 (Oil Change and replaced distributor cap) - July 29, 2012 - 52,158 - $55.39 (including tax)
Expense #28 (r134a charge) - October 5, 2012 - 53,482 - $6.98 (including tax)
Expense #29 (redneck cruise control bushing) - October 6, 2012 - 53,517 - $5.44 (including tax)
Expense #30 (Third brake light and AC Belt) - October 6, 2012 - 53,525 - $9.23 (including tax and shipping)
Expense #31 (6 new intake O rings, 3 helicoils in intake valley, and emergency hood release cable) - October 11, 2012 - XX,XXX - $5.56
Expense #32 (replaced speedometer dust cap, patched water pump hose) - October 13, 2012 - XX,XXX - $1
Expense #33 (replaced alternator belt) - October 14, 2012 - 54,783 - $5.44
Expense #34 (oil change) - October 16, 2012 - 55,722 - $25.27


Oil change at home in Livingston, LA

10-16-12 Oil Change. 55,722

Bosch 72150 Oil Filter - $5.27 - Free shipping from Amazon.com
7 Quarts of 15W40 Diesel Oil (Supertech Brand) - Surprisingly it was cheaper to purchase by the quart when I was in Georgia. I got 7 quarts for exactly $20 (including tax).

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $1,266.3732 Miles Driven: 12,194
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50
Expense #24 (Filled coolant and replaced coolant tank cap) - June 14, 2012 - 49,920 - Total Cost $15.26
Expense #25 (Added washers and replaced LCA bolts) - June 16, 2012 - 49,930 - Total Cost $48.43
Expense #26 (Replaced ignition rotor) - July 13, 2012 - 51,256 - $11.98 (including tax)
Expense #27 (Oil Change and replaced distributor cap) - July 29, 2012 - 52,158 - $55.39 (including tax)
Expense #28 (r134a charge) - October 5, 2012 - 53,482 - $6.98 (including tax)
Expense #29 (redneck cruise control bushing) - October 6, 2012 - 53,517 - $5.44 (including tax)
Expense #30 (Third brake light and AC Belt) - October 6, 2012 - 53,525 - $9.23 (including tax and shipping)
Expense #31 (6 new intake O rings, 3 helicoils in intake valley, and emergency hood release cable) - October 11, 2012 - XX,XXX - $5.56
Expense #32 (replaced speedometer dust cap, patched water pump hose) - October 13, 2012 - XX,XXX - $1
Expense #33 (replaced alternator belt) - October 14, 2012 - 54,783 - $5.44
Expense #34 (oil change) - October 16, 2012 - 55,722 - $25.27
Expense #35 (Upgrade to Spec .01 steering and replaced steering column bushing) - November 10, 2012 - 56,273 - $315.22



11-10-12
Spec .01 steering shaft/column and Toby steering column bushing. Part numbers documented in post #309.


Half way into my 2k mile trip, my DMCH steering column bushing decided to come loose. I drove the rest of my trip with a somewhat noisy steering column. When I got home I decided to replace the worn bushing with one of those fancy bushings from the friendly folks at DMCNW (Toby and Misty Peterson). The cost for the new bushing was $24.75 (including shipping).

I also decided to go ahead and upgrade the lower steering shaft/column to a Spec .01 unit since I would have to disconnect part of the column anyway. I ordered the parts directly from Borgeson for a grand total of $290.47 (including shipping). Details of the steering column can be found in post #309 of this thread.

Total cost for the work I performed last weekend was $315.22.

[stevedmc]

There shouldn't be any more updates today. That is all of my expenses to date.

I must mention though, that I will be leaving in a couple of hours for a 230 mile trip to see family. I plan to drive back home tomorrow as well. This will add around 460 miles to my odometer.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I'm still driving around on a nicked water pump hose that needs to be replaced. I'm too lazy to change it out.

[DMC5180]

If you subtract the LCA links and Steering Shaft. Your pretty close to your target. Neither of those are what I would call maintenance Items. Unless your OEM steering shaft joints suddenly failed. They are Discretionary Upgrades that did not need to be done too maintain the vehicle. Fixing broken or failed components are what I call maintenance items.

[Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1]

Shouldn't you deduct $179.65 (Expense #10) since Captain Carburetor ultimately bought that manifold from you (then let Louis Duet borrow it, fate after Sandy unknown)?

[DMC5180]

Shouldn't you deduct $179.65 (Expense #10) since Captain Carburetor ultimately bought that manifold from you (then let Louis Duet borrow it, fate after Sandy unknown)?

See Expense/Deduction # 14 -$179.65

[DMC5180]

I also decided to go ahead and upgrade the lower steering shaft/column to a Spec .01 unit since I would have to disconnect part of the column anyway. I ordered the parts directly from Borgeson for a grand total of $290.47 (including shipping). Details of the steering column can be found in post #309 of this thread.

Total cost for the work I performed last weekend was $315.22.

Did you notice any difference with the steering vibrations, since you have the anti-vibration U-joint in the assembly?

[stevedmc]

Did you notice any difference with the steering vibrations, since you have the anti-vibration U-joint in the assembly?

Its hard to tell what improved my steering since I also replaced the steering column bushing at the same time. At speeds below 50 mph I have zero vibration in the steering column unless I am on a really bumpy road. I do still have a light vibration at speeds in excess of 50 mph. I'm guessing my tires could be out of balance which is a little disturbing since I had the front tires balanced earlier this year. Perhaps I should cough up the money and have all four balanced at the same time.