How to maintain your Delorean for less than $500 a year and put 10,000 miles on it

[stevedmc]

There have been many people in the past who have claimed you must spend $1,500 a year just to properly maintain a Delorean.

For 2012 I will attempt to show how it is possible to maintain a Delorean for less than $500 a year and I will log 10,000 miles on the odometer.

Each time I do something to the car that costs money (with the exception of putting fuel in the tank) I will document it here and at the end of 2012 we will see how much it cost me to maintain the car.

I'll even go as far as including the cost of oil changes.

Let it be know that the car currently has 44,074 miles on the odometer. I plan to drive it to DCS and later in the year I plan to take a road trip to the east coast.

Let the fun begin!

[Sidaries]

Good idea. I will follow this thread.

[Citizen]

Good idea. I will follow this thread.

Great idea. I too will follow this thread. But I think you should record your fuel cost too, on every fillup. Include the price per gallon, and where you purchased it. This way, you'll know your MPG for the entire year (with which you can take an annual average). This is what I do.

I'm looking forward to seeing all your expenses as they occur. However, you don't have to bore us on this thread with details of every fill up, but maybe at the end of the year give us your summerized results of your fuel usage.

Just a suggestion.

[Chris Mays]

Great idea. I too will follow this thread. But I think you should record your fuel cost too, on every fillup. Include the price per gallon, and where you purchased it. This way, you'll know your MPG for the entire year (with which you can take an annual average). This is what I do.

I'm looking forward to seeing all your expenses as they occur. However, you don't have to bore us on this thread with details of every fill up, but maybe at the end of the year give us your summerized results of your fuel usage.

Just a suggestion.

Great idea....I would like to see how your (annual) MPG comes out too.

[sean]

. However, you don't have to bore us on this thread with details of every fill up......

+1. We don't need an update whenever you change a fuse or door light. I'd suggest a biweekly or monthly update.

[ramblinmike]

Good idea for a thread. I have no doubt it can be done. I've done it myself with 910! Once the "30-year-old-car-that's-been-sitting" issues were worked out it turned into just another car.

Happy driving!

[Iznodmad]

For clarification purposes, are you only going to tally mechanical type things, or are you going to include any cosmetic work as well?

[stevedmc]

For clarification purposes, are you only going to tally mechanical type things, or are you going to include any cosmetic work as well?

Everything but fuel.


+1. We don't need an update whenever you change a fuse or door light. I'd suggest a biweekly or monthly update.

Bi weekly or monthly shouldn't be a problem since stuff doesn't break daily anyway.

[Michael]

For clarification purposes, are you only going to tally mechanical type things, or are you going to include any cosmetic work as well?

Furthermore, if something does break, and you decide to disclose it even if it destroys your argument, will you fix it yourself and claim no labor charge, or will you take it to a shop?

I personally do not subscribe to the whole premise. The upkeep of a 30 year old car with multiple owners can not be surmised with one owner's experience during the course of one year. If you just want to make a point that your car can do it, go for it, but any amount of money spent on a 30 year old Delorean, no matter how small or great, will differ with each car.

[DeLorean]

Furthermore, if something does break, and you decide to disclose it even if it destroys your argument, will you fix it yourself and claim no labor charge, or will you take it to a shop?

Anyone driving any 30 year old car, much less a DeLorean, isn't taking their car to a shop at the first sign of trouble. Lets say a release cable snaps off? Take it to some mechanic and #1, they might not even be able to fix it, #2 Might damage the car trying, #3 it could blow this whole thing right up with the potential of a $1000 bill.

Fix it yourself, and you know how to fix it, will fix it right and the fix will cost you as much as the cable and the bolt!



Quite likely, I could drive my DeLorean for under $100 a year not including gas. (at this point) - Results not typical ;)

[stevedmc]

Furthermore, if something does break, and you decide to disclose it even if it destroys your argument, will you fix it yourself and claim no labor charge, or will you take it to a shop?

If I use another mechanic for an engine swap I will be sure to include the labor.

Honestly, I love 16510 and according to Facebook I am married to it. I consider driving and working on it to be a pleasure. Would you let another man please your wife?

Oh and as far as disclosing issues, I already have some unexpected stuff to disclose that really sucks. Last night I discovered I have a radiator leak. If have to replace it i could possibly go over $500 for the year. Time will tell.




Quite likely, I could drive my DeLorean for under $100 a year not including gas. (at this point) - Results not typical ;)

And log 10,000 miles?

[Dangermouse]

Everything but fuel.

Plus insurance, road tax etc?

[stevedmc]

Plus insurance, road tax etc?

I never knew insurance and road taxes were part of maintenance.

[DMC5180]

Plus insurance, road tax etc?

While those are regularly re-occurring costs, they are not maintenance items. How picky do you want to be? If you want to go there, you'll need to factor the none yearly cost items on a cost per mile basis. Tires,Brakes, Etc.

Steve,

If you need to replace the radiator, would it be just the cost of the leaking radiator? Or, would it also include CHOICE Upgrades. Like FANS, HOSES, CONDENSER assuming they have not been upgraded already.

[stevedmc]

While those are regularly re-occurring costs, they are not maintenance items. How picky do you want to be? If you want to go there, you'll need to factor the none yearly cost items on a cost per mile basis. Tires,Brakes, Etc.

Steve,

If you need to replace the radiator, would it be just the cost of the leaking radiator? Or, would it also include CHOICE Upgrades. Like FANS, HOSES, CONDENSER assuming they have not been upgraded already.

My fans are working fine and the hoses were replaced a few weeks after I got the car.

The AC condenser and radiator were replaced a year ago (paid by my insurance) when I ran over Bambi a year ago. I had a $100 deductible on comprehensive and they were nice enough to wave the deductible due to an inconvenience on their part.

My radiator issue was completely unexpected. The leak was due to an unfortunate mishap when I had my car inspected last week. I assumed the lady remembered how to drive my car, and to make a long story short, the front end of my car ended up bumping into something it shouldn't have. It only scraped some paint on the front fascia (so I though) and I told the nice lady not to worry about it. I would just call my insurance company for a nice paint job and radiator but my collision insurance has a $1,000 deductible. It will be cheaper for me to just do the work on my own. I don't expect the lady at the inspection station to be responsible for what happened (although she should have had her foot on the clutch when she started it) so I'm just going to be a nice guy and take care of the expense on my own.

If the radiator was 30 years old I would just replace it. But because it is only a year old, I am going to do some testing on it and see if I can find and patch the leak with some solder.

As far as the condenser, I pray it isn't damaged. I will put my gauges on at a later date to see. If I do end up needing to replace it this will be a nice excuse to replace the DMCH part with one of Hervey's larger capacity condensers. Unfortunately a new radiator and condenser will put me just a hair past $400.

Oh, and btw, I do plan on including shipping in my $500 total.

[Alan]

I personally do not subscribe to the whole premise. The upkeep of a 30 year old car with multiple owners can not be surmised with one owner's experience during the course of one year.

I completely agree with you. However, these numbers are thrown around. There's the $25,000.00 rule and this maintenance rule. If they are going to be cited by the community, as a non-owner who wants to be an owner, I'd like to see examples of where the numbers are accurate as well as where they're not.

I'm also going to be interested in how the maintenance is done and any extenuating circumstances behind the need for repairs. If Steve does all his own work but I can't, it will affect how accurate his numbers are compared to mine. If Bambi (or the lady at the inspection station) keeps causing damage and I don't encounter that damage, it will affect how accurate his numbers are compared to mine. It's still good information to see a trend.

The only missing piece might be for Steve to try and, as accurately as possible, describe the initial condition of his car. If it is a project that he considers a work in progress with many items still needing attention, this year could be more expensive. If, on the other hand, Steve considers his car to be pretty well gone through and reliable, then less maintenance should be expected.

Do I expect my experience to match Steve's? No. Do I think with enough background it could be an interesting study? Yes.

[stevedmc]

The only missing piece might be for Steve to try and, as accurately as possible, describe the initial condition of his car.

I believe this information can be found amongst my 1,300 or so posts on this forum. The old forum had lots of my work documented as well. I finally have the car at a reliable state and don't plan to spend much on it this year.

[David T]

What is missing from this experiment is the initial conditions. If the car is a P-O-S and was never properly taken care of you can EXPECT things to happen. If the car was well maintained (and a lot of money was spent) you can expect the car will need a LOT less to be spent on it. Also a lot depends on how picky you are and how well you expect everything on the car to work. Maybe the doors don't close right, some bulbs are burnt out, the A/C doesn't work well, the wipers blades streak, etc. There are years I don't spend ANY money on maintenance on my car but that is because a LOT was spent when I first got it. Then again I don't drive it 10,000 miles in a year. In the time I have owned it (around 15 years) I put 9,000 miles on it. Everything works and works perfectly on the car though. Not very many 30 year old cars can make that claim.
David Teitelbaum

[Dangermouse]

I never knew insurance and road taxes were part of maintenance.

I never knew "fuel" was a maintenance cost either.

I was attempting to help clarify your aims and differentiate between "maintaining" and "operating". I was adding "insurance and road tax" to "fuel" as non-maintenance type expenses.

[DMCMW Dave]

If the radiator is only a year old, and not grossly dented/bent, take it out and find an old-time radiator shop (they are pretty scarce but they are out there - usually in a crummy part of town). Assuming the one you have is brass, you can probably get it fixed for less than $100 and it will be a much better radiator than a used one. They will solder it up and leak-test it in a tank.


The AC condenser and radiator were replaced a year ago (paid by my insurance) when I ran over Bambi a year ago. I had a $100 deductible on comprehensive and they were nice enough to wave the deductible due to an inconvenience on their part.
l.

[stevedmc]

If the radiator is only a year old, and not grossly dented/bent, take it out and find an old-time radiator shop (they are pretty scarce but they are out there - usually in a crummy part of town). Assuming the one you have is brass, you can probably get it fixed for less than $100 and it will be a much better radiator than a used one. They will solder it up and leak-test it in a tank.

I got this one from you about a year ago. Were you guys selling NOS radiators back then or new ones? I don't have an invoice to check since my insurance company paid for the radiator. I tapped on the sides of the radiator and they seem to be metal.

I'm playing hookie from church today and am working on removing it right now.

[thirdmanj]

Bi weekly or monthly shouldn't be a problem since stuff doesn't break daily anyway.

Really? ..... Lucky fucker....

[DeLorean]

What is missing from this experiment is the initial conditions. If the car is a P-O-S and was never properly taken care of you can EXPECT things to happen. If the car was well maintained (and a lot of money was spent) you can expect the car will need a LOT less to be spent on it. Also a lot depends on how picky you are and how well you expect everything on the car to work. Maybe the doors don't close right, some bulbs are burnt out, the A/C doesn't work well, the wipers blades streak, etc. There are years I don't spend ANY money on maintenance on my car but that is because a LOT was spent when I first got it. Then again I don't drive it 10,000 miles in a year. In the time I have owned it (around 15 years) I put 9,000 miles on it. Everything works and works perfectly on the car though. Not very many 30 year old cars can make that claim.
David Teitelbaum

100% accurate. My DeLorean will likely be a great car THIS YEAR because I probably spent $4000 on it (parts alone) last year getting it all up to snuff!

[DMCMW Dave]

I got this one from you about a year ago. Were you guys selling NOS radiators back then or new ones? I don't have an invoice to check since my insurance company paid for the radiator. .

Took me a minute to find it - the shop bought it. It's all aluminum. That will be a bit tougher to repair, which is why radiator shops are fading away. . .

[stevedmc]

Took me a minute to find it - the shop bought it. It's all aluminum. That will be a bit tougher to repair, which is why radiator shops are fading away. . .

Awesome! Thank you so much for the info. I did a google search and did manage to find a few radiator repair shops in Baton Rouge. A few of them even have websites boasting of same day repairs.

[Ron]

Why not simply post every penny you spend on the D? As long as you itemize, people can easily compare/adjust accordingly...(ie You may do work yourself or overpay on labor etc, etc.)

[stevedmc]

Why not simply post every penny you spend on the D? As long as you itemize, people can easily compare/adjust accordingly...(ie You may do work yourself or overpay on labor etc, etc.)

That's what I plan on doing, minus insurance, yearly inspection, and fuel.

[MartyP]

I have an excel sheet, that gives me the date the parts and the cost including shipping on my D.

I believe its feasable for 500$ (not including oil change, gaz and axes insurance) If it's maintenance.

Skipping the updates and upgrades.... If I remove all the updates and upgrades I'm prety sure I was below 1000$ for each of the 2 years I had the car.

[stevedmc]

Here are some pictures of my radiator. I plan on testing it later today. I'm going to seal off all the connections but one, put air on one connection from a shop vac, drop it in the tub and see where the bubbles come out.

[stevedmc]

This sucks. I drained the ramen noodles out of the bath tub, filled it up with water and did my little test. I sealed off two barbs on the radiator and connected the reverse end of my shop vac to the radiator. I let the thing sit in the tub for a few minutes with the shop van running (from the exhaust end) and I didn't see any bubbles leave the radiator!

I'm going to go driving around tomorrow looking for a radiator shop that can test it for me. I'm guessing I would need something more powerful like an air compressor to do this sort of test.

[David T]

Typically to test a radiator (and the rest of the cooling system) you put a cooling system pressure tester (basically it's a hand pump with the proper adapter to attach to the neck where the pressure caps fits and a pressure gauge), you can buy or rent them. You pressurize the cooling system to 15 psi and look for leaks. A radiator shop will place the whole radiator into a tank of water and with the proper plugs and adapters pressurize the radiator to 15 psi with air to test and find leaks. If you have the original rad with the plastic tanks and aluminum core don't even waste time testing it. You can't properly test a rad with a shop vac. Good luck finding a rad shop. It is getting harder and harder to find one, the newer rads are not repairable and most of them have gone out of business. There are still a few staying alive because big rigs have repairable/rebuildable radiators. If you have ANY doubts about the radiator the best advice is to just replace it. If you blow the radiator you *could* overheat the motor and the cost of the rad is going to look cheap compared to what you have to do if you cook the motor!
David Teitelbaum

[uhhair]

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but one year of sub $500 maintenance doesn't mean that you've succeeded. The cars are old yes, and some years will be worse than others, but I think it averages out to way more than $500 a year. You might be able to get by for a few years doing minimal work, but the one year something major comes up you have to replace (clutch, kjet issues, ect) it just gets averaged in with those lighter years where all you may need is some fuses, a belt, and a taillight bulb.

Also, on your $500 a year budget, if you don't factor in the cost of cosmetics, yes the car will be mechanically fine, but who wants to drive around in a delorean that looks like it's falling apart?

However, I have no doubt that for one year, barring some major mechanical failure, $500 is easily obtainable. If you could do it for 10 years straight, I'd be extremely impressed though.

[WelmoedJ]

If I use another mechanic for an engine swap I will be sure to include the labor.

Honestly, I love 16510 and according to Facebook I am married to it. I consider driving and working on it to be a pleasure. Would you let another man please your wife?

Oh and as far as disclosing issues, I already have some unexpected stuff to disclose that really sucks. Last night I discovered I have a radiator leak. If have to replace it i could possibly go over $500 for the year. Time will tell.



And log 10,000 miles?

Yep, can be done: only an air and oilfilter plus oil (well, 6.5k miles only), but yes it's possible (not counting the speeding ticket's as that's not maintenance :) ).

[David T]

A lot depends on how much work you can do yourself. Just figuring struts every couple of years, tires every 7 years, a battery every 5, door seals once in a while, brakes etc, it can be hard to average $500 a year. Especially if anything major goes poof like the A/C or a water pump. If all you are doing is Preventive Maintenance (PM) like changing fluids and filters, greasing and such, you can do it for under $500. Just doing a clutch will blow this budget! If you are using a used car and not making payments you have to allow for some money to be spent keeping the car going. My guess is on a well taken care of car you will probably average year-to-year closer to $1,000 not counting cosmetic work or operating expenses (gas, insurance, registration fees). Some years you will spend almost nothing and others you may spend more than $1K.
David Teitelbaum

[sean]

Good idea. I will follow this thread.


Great idea....I would like to see how your (annual) MPG comes out too.


Great idea. I too will follow this thread.

Guys, we need to simmer down now. It seems all this bashing has upset Steve's sensitive internets persona.

[stevedmc]

Guys, we need to simmer down now. It seems all this bashing has upset Steve's sensitive internets persona.

Nah. I just decided to shut up before this turns into another Bill thread. I'm just going to ignore the haters for now and will only post when I have something to report.

I find it ridiculous how people are willing to bash my idea and say it isn't possible when many people don't even drive their silly little cars. I hear people brag all the time saying stuff like, "I just completed a 50 mile trip for the first time and it did great". Crap like that disturbs me when people say stuff like you have to spend tons of money to maintain a car, yet they never drive the dang thing.

It isn't uncommon for me to put anywhere between 70 to 200 miles on my car IN ONE DAY when I take it out on the road.

People can say all the shit they want, but when the year is over I WILL HAVE LOGGED another 10k miles on the car and I will have a record of every maintenance expense, documented on this thread. If it goes over $500 then so be it. But I plan on only fixing stuff as needed, and am not going to replace a part if it can reliably be repaired.

I've had 16510 for a little over two years now. It had 22k miles on the odometer when I got it. The odometer stayed broke for a few months during that time and amazingly I have already driven at least 20k miles in less than 2 years. Not to mention 4 months of that my car wasn't even on the road accumulating miles because it was in the shop waiting for an engine swap.

People can say all the crap they want. But I love/hate my car and I'm going to give real world data for a car that gets driven and doesn't sit in a garage most of its life.

Honestly, I don't think data for a car thats only logged 15k miles in 9 years is very relevant. I could log 15k miles just one year if I wanted to but I chose to drive another car ONLY TO SAVE ON GAS. My other car gets 50 mpg. My Delorean gets between 17 - 28 mpg based on how I drive the sucker. Most of the time I get 25ish mpg.

Anyway, thats enough for my rant. The radiator is at a shop being repaired, and I picked up some anti freeze and distilled water today. I still have my receipt and the total cost for the work will be posted when it is done.

[thirdmanj]

It's a shame that your data will only be valid for DeLoreans that have undergone the carb mod. Otherwise I'd be most interested in following.

Not that there is anything wrong with that, just thought I'd point it out.

[stevedmc]

It's a shame that your data will only be valid for DeLoreans that have undergone the carb mod. Otherwise I'd be most interested in following.

Not that there is anything wrong with that, just thought I'd point it out.

Whatever. If you want to maintain your car for $500 become white trash like me and put a carb on it. I thought it was pretty obvious to everyone that my car is carbureted since I mention it next to my vin number in the avatar thingie.

[DMC5180]

Back to your Radiator. Your initial test is valid. Any positive air pressure will find a way out if there is one. Yes it should be fully tested at 15 psi. The damaged area seen in the photo appears to be superficial. You might be able to pull the bent aluminum frame back down somewhat by using a slide hammer connected to the mounting stud. Did the Fan shroud get broken by the impact?

[SamHill]

It's also fair game to mitigate your expenses from parts you don't use anymore, if you still have 'em.

[stevedmc]

Back to your Radiator. Your initial test is valid. Any positive air pressure will find a way out if there is one. Yes it should be fully tested at 15 psi. The damaged area seen in the photo appears to be superficial. You might be able to pull the bent aluminum frame back down somewhat by using a slide hammer connected to the mounting stud. Did the Fan shroud get broken by the impact?

Unfortunately I don't have an air compressor to apply 15 psi. I figured the shop vac would only provide a pound or so of pressure and obviously that wasn't enough power. I didn't take me long to figure that out.

Surprisingly the fan shroud didn't have any significant damage. I think it was slightly cracked where one of the bolts goes in it, but it wasn't bad enough to justify replacing it. Shoot, it isn't even noticeable unless you are specifically looking for it.

I am getting a little concerned about the radiator though. I dropped it off at 9:30 am this morning and the guy said it should be ready in an hour. I called back at 11:00 am checking on it and he said it was taking a little longer than expected and he would call me back when its done. Well, its 3:15pm now. I guess I'll wait and call the guy again tomorrow.

[sean]

I am getting a little concerned about the radiator though. I dropped it off at 9:30 am this morning and the guy said it should be ready in an hour. I called back at 11:00 am checking on it and he said it was taking a little longer than expected and he would call me back when its done. Well, its 3:15pm now. I guess I'll wait and call the guy again tomorrow.

You and local mechanics dont have a great track record do you? I'm having flashbacks of the guy doing your head bolt.

[stevedmc]

You and local mechanics dont have a great track record do you? I'm having flashbacks of the guy doing your head bolt.

With my luck its going to take $500 and 4 months just to get my radiator issue taken care of.

[SamHill]

Related/unrelated. This Friday night when it was very dark there was a huge log in my lane on the interstate. I was going 65 in my Miata and was boxed in. I hit it hard. The log went through my front valance, destroyed my condenser, a/c lines, sheered off the bottom half of the radiator, bent the front sway bar.

Using an old radiator, a sledge hammer, JB Marine weld and LOTS of tie wraps, it's back and running perfect. That's a $0 repair. I'm very proud of myself. It'll never have air conditioning again, but a convertible car in VA doesn't really need it.

[David T]

Just because the car has been fitted with a carburetor doesn't invalidate the test. There are many other systems in the car that will be unaffected by that mod. Besides, on a well running K-Jet system, that is well taken care of (no old, worn out parts) the only maintenance would be to change the fuel filter or maybe an O2 sensor. The idea stevedmc presents is sound. Keeping track of yearly expenses would be interesting, it would be even more interesting if more than one person did it.
David Teitelbaum

[Kevin]

Unfortunately I don't have an air compressor to apply 15 psi.

I can recommend this pressure tester:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRGWU/ref=oh_o03_s00_i00_details

Used it last week to patch up a couple coolant leaks and bleed the system. Very convenient to be able to pressurize and depressurize the system without running the car.

[Ozzie]

I can recommend this pressure tester:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRGWU/ref=oh_o03_s00_i00_details

Used it last week to patch up a couple coolant leaks and bleed the system. Very convenient to be able to pressurize and depressurize the system without running the car.

Yup, and Harbor Freight has a near identical one if have a store near you.
OR...you can rent again a near identical one, at your local AutoZone with a refundable-upon-return deposit.

[stevedmc]

I can recommend this pressure tester:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRGWU/ref=oh_o03_s00_i00_details

Used it last week to patch up a couple coolant leaks and bleed the system. Very convenient to be able to pressurize and depressurize the system without running the car.

Thanks. I've used pressure testers before though. I normally rent the tester at Autozone for free though. It is basically the same item.

[stevedmc]

I just got off the phone with the radiator guy. He said it is ready and its going to be $87.50 plus tax. I plan on picking it up tomorrow and I will update this thread with the total cost including radiator repair, anti freeze, distilled water, and tax.

[TTait]

There seems to be a concensus, with Deloreans anyway, that deferred maintenance and upkeep actually costs more than consistent upkeep. Thats a tough nut to crack, especially with a single car in the sample group.

I'd encourage you to download the car evaluation checklist (DMCnews.com?) and do an honest evaluation from soup to nuts, listing your best estimation of each item on the list from 100% (brand new) to 0% (time to replace). Then at the end of the year, do the survey again (without having looked at the original for a year) and see what has changed. Then you take the percentage of degradation and multiply that by your cost to effect the repair/replacement including paid labor, shipping, etc.

Then you add that figure to the actual costs and you have your total cost.

Its ok that the evaluation is subjective, because you as the owner are the sole judge of the value of your car.

I'm guessing Tony or someone else might be able to list the total cost per mile to keep a car in concours winning condition. That too would be a great contrast.

[DMC5180]

I just got off the phone with the radiator guy. He said it is ready and its going to be $87.50 plus tax. I plan on picking it up tomorrow and I will update this thread with the total cost including radiator repair, anti freeze, distilled water, and tax.

Please post photos of the repair. I don't expect it to be perfect by any means. More curious to see what they were able to do with it.

[stevedmc]

Repair #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)


Removed leaking radiator and brought it to a shop for repair. I reinstalled the repaired radiator with Walmart brand coolant and distilled water. It took about 3 gallons to refill the system and I have about one gallon left which I will carry in trunk.

Cost for Radiator Repair: $95.50
Cost for 2 gallons coolant and 2 gallons distilled water: $23.33

[David T]

You do not keep a car in "concours condition". Too costly and if you do enter into concours you will still have to replace many things. Some things you would do for concours you would not drive the car on, some examples would be tires, fan fail relay, and door lock module. You keep it as nice as you can without going nuts and in preparation for the concours you would clean it and replace any parts mostly because of appearance issues. The only way to keep a car in councours condition would be to drain all of the fluids and stick it in a glass case. Sound vaguely familiar? The larger the sample the more accurate the #'s. Following the expenses of one car of unknown initial condition will not yield useful results. The other big caveat is that you can save some money buying cross-over parts or used parts. Are all of the parts going to "correct"?
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

Repair #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)

Well, I drove the thing about 50 miles today and guess what! There is a small drip of coolant at the bottom of the radiator!

I stopped at Autozone on my way home today and got a pressure tester. I rented it for free. I'm going to put about 15 lbs of pressure on it and see if I can see/hear where it is leaking. Please don't let it be a hose and not the radiator!

Repair #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)

Apparently it was just a loose hose going into the radiator. I moved a clamp, tightened it back on, and everything seems to be fine. I'm going to leave the system under pressure for a little while to see if the leak happens again.

[Dracula]

Very interesting thread here. I picked my car up from DMCMW in June, when I returned from Iraq, and my expenses in 6 months of near-daily driving were a new alternator and one fuel line, So I expect you to meet your goal.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $142.77

Repair #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Repair #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Repair #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)




Apparently tightening the clamps didn't fix my small coolant leak. I noticed a small drip coming from the hose again. I ended up replacing the hose going into the radiator, and I added a two extra clamps to the hose just to make sure everything is snug. I replaced the small section of hose with a section of spare hose I had laying around the house. I did the math and if I would have purchased it I would have paid $4.79 (with tax) for 5 inches of hose. I did purchase two clamps today. Those clamps cost me a total of $2.61 (with tax).

Since I was in a spending mood today I also purchased new Bosch #20 windshield wipers. I purchased them at Walmart for a whopping $7.97 each (plus tax).

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $167.2316

Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)




Today I changed the oil with 7 gallons of Supertech 20W50 from Wal-Mart ($19.47 with tax) and a Bosch oil filter from Hervey ($4.9916 - It was part of a 6 pack I ordered last year for $29.95).

[robvanderveer]

So within a month you've already covered one 3rd of your yearly budget. :worship:

[stevedmc]

So within a month you've already covered one 3rd of your yearly budget. :worship:

Last year the lady at the inspection station caused my radiator problem. The radiator is the majority of the expense so far. I will meet my goal, even with this obstacle.

[jawn101]

...7 gallons of Supertech 20W50 from Wal-Mart

I think you may have overfilled. :)

[stevedmc]

I think you may have overfilled. :)

Nah, I've got one of those helicopter engines in my car. If anything, I underpaid for 7 gallons of oil. :nana1:

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $168.5816

Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)

Sometime last year I replaced my steering column bushing with a new one sold by the friendly folks at DMCH. I pressed the bushing in by hand, and a few days latter it had popped out. Because of laziness, I have been living the dream (or nightmare) with a rattly steering column ever since then.

I was going to replace the bushing with one of Hervey's units but I decided to try something different since I am on a strict budget. Today I remove my steering column, cleaned things up, and inspected the bushing. The bushing seemed to be in okay condition.

This time I cleaned up the hole in the firewall and applied a coating of black RTV (about 15 cents worth) to the bushing. Then, instead of pressing it in by hand I used a home made press (a long bolt, large socket, some washers and a nut) to ensure the bushing was pressed in firmly.

I then put everything back together, drove around today and everything seems to be fine. For my little stroll today I was able to drive around with no rattling from the steering column. Hopefully it stays that way.

I also took some time to tidy up some wires under the dash by securing them with tie wraps. I used about 4 or 5 tie wraps total. I already had these laying around the house from a big jumbo pack I bought a year or so ago, but we will value them at 20 cents each for sake of figuring out the total.

While I was under the car I noticed one of the steering rack boots had a loose clamp. The part of the boot the clamp attaches to had actually separated from the rest of the boot. I fixed this too, with a 20 cent tie wrap. The section it is holding is small enough for the tie wrap to make a good seal. I will keep an eye on this and will replace the boot in the future if necessary. I honestly believe my tie wrap fix will hold though.

On another note, I was on my way home from my little drive and I went to adjust my rear view mirror (inside). Well the 30 year old adhesive finally decided to come loose and the mirror came off with it. I'm not going to Autozone to spend $5 on a piece of glue. I plan on checking eBay to see what I can get for less than a dollar.

[Dracula]

On another note, I was on my way home from my little drive and I went to adjust my rear view mirror (inside). Well the 30 year old adhesive finally decided to come loose and the mirror came off with it. I'm not going to Autozone to spend $5 on a piece of glue. I plan on checking eBay to see what I can get for less than a dollar.

I'd recommend a double-sided adhesive pad instead, as glue can cause your windshield to crack and that would throw your budgeting plan out the window.

[stevedmc]

I'd recommend a double-sided adhesive pad instead, as glue can cause your windshield to crack and that would throw your budgeting plan out the window.

I have free glass coverage through my insurance company with no deductible but yeah, everything I've heard on the forum/dml indicates I should use a double-sided adhesive pad. Now I'm just trying to figure out where I can get one for a dollar or two. I checked ebay and the cheapest thing I could find is $6.89 shipped from Europe. I'm thinking Autozone or Walmart might be cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAR-INTERIOR-REAR-VIEW-MIRROR-ADHESIVE-STICKY-PADS-NEW-/150634252385?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2312804861


Edit: Maybe I was wrong. I found this for $3.09 shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Double-Sided-Rear-View-Mirror-Sticky-Adhesive-Pad-X-2-/300646290564?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45ffea5484

Edit again: I just ordered a pack of 5 pads shipped from the UK for $3.20 USD including shipping. I'll add this expense to the total when it is installed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAR-INTERIOR-REAR-VIEW-MIRROR-ADHESIVE-STICKY-PADS-/280560512937?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4152b5afa9

[Farrar]

I used 3M Emblem Tape. Same stuff I used for my side view mirror glass. Grey double-sided adhesive with red plastic backing. No problems so far.

Farrar

[jawn101]

I used 3M Emblem Tape. Same stuff I used for my side view mirror glass. Grey double-sided adhesive with red plastic backing. No problems so far.

Farrar

That stuff is amazing for mounting just about anything. I put my side mirror glass on using it, and have used it for countless other double-stick applications. It's great.

[David T]

If you go to an auto glass shop they may give you a piece for free if you ask nice.
David Teitelbaum

[jawn101]

If you go to an auto glass shop they may give you a piece for free if you ask nice.
David Teitelbaum

This is a great idea too. I am still trying to compile my final unified theory of DeLorean Reality to explain exactly who will react in what way, but Steve, if you haven't already noticed... one of the two following principles will almost always hold true:

1. Drive up to a parts, restoration or modification store/facility in the DeLorean. Watch people fall all over themselves to give you stuff because they're so enthralled by the car.

2. Drive up to a service facility in the DeLorean. Watch people regard you with disbelief and general apprehension as they tell you there's no way in hell they're willing to work on that thing.

I don't go in search of handouts, but I have had three seperate (independant, this won't usually happen at Kragen or the like) stores give me parts I was seeking just because it was fun for them to think what it would be used on. So asking nicely can't hurt. Bat those eyelashes. ;)

[stevedmc]

I don't go in search of handouts, but I have had three seperate (independant, this won't usually happen at Kragen or the like) stores give me parts I was seeking just because it was fun for them to think what it would be used on. So asking nicely can't hurt. Bat those eyelashes. ;)

Awesome idea. Too bad I already ordered the adhesive pads.

[jawn101]

Awesome idea. Too bad I already ordered the adhesive pads.

Ah well, next time. It might go a long way towards helping you meet your goal for the year! :)

[stevedmc]

So far my RTVd steering column bushing is holding up fine. I logged about 80 miles today and I must say it was exciting driving around without that stupid rattle. The car handled very nicely and it only cost me about 15 cents in RTV to fix.

[stevedmc]

I'm off to a good start for the month of February. So far it is the 4th and I haven't spent a penny on 16510 for the month. Hopefully I can keep this up for at least a couple of weeks.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm off to a good start for the month of February. So far it is the 4th and I haven't spent a penny on 16510 for the month. Hopefully I can keep this up for at least a couple of weeks.

That's cheating when you are 5000 miles from the car. . . . .

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $180.46

Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88

I got home from my trip, did a little driving and noticed I still have a coolant leak at the radiator hose coming from the top of the radiator. I went to walmart the other day and bough some more coolant/water to keep in the car so I can keep the thing topped off. In the next week or so I will remove the hose, inspect the radiator and replace the hose.

[Farrar]

Will you stay in budget if you have a $40 alternator tensioner? ;)

[stevedmc]

Will you stay in budget if you have a $40 alternator tensioner? ;)

I'm not going to buy one if it is $40. $10, maybe. $40, certainly not.

[Farrar]

Maybe it would be $10 if you got the parts in zinc-plated steel instead of stainless... I will check the prices.

Edit: you can save some money on the ball joint rod ends (a.k.a. Heim joints) at $3.37 each, but the threaded connector is $15.37 (McMaster only offers one in that size).

[stevedmc]

Maybe it would be $10 if you got the parts in zinc-plated steel instead of stainless... I will check the prices.

Oh well. There is always next year. I wouldn't be in this bind if it wasn't for my stinking radiator problem.

[Ron]

Oh well. There is always next year. I wouldn't be in this bind if it wasn't for my stinking radiator problem.You could always take another trip and increase your odds...win-win!

[stevedmc]

You could always take another trip and increase your odds...win-win!

Thats pretty funny right there but the next two trips are going to be Orlando and a road trip to the east coast. Both trips will be in 16510.

[Jeff K]

So far my RTVd steering column bushing is holding up fine. I logged about 80 miles today and I must say it was exciting driving around without that stupid rattle. The car handled very nicely and it only cost me about 15 cents in RTV to fix.

Hey, what does "RTVd " mean? :hmm:

[sean]

Oh well. There is always next year. I wouldn't be in this bind if it wasn't for my stinking radiator problem.

So are you refraining from doing certain things to stay under $500?

[stevedmc]

So are you refraining from doing certain things to stay under $500?

Last I checked, the fancy alternator bracket was more of a fancy update and not a necessary item.

My current bracket works fine and there is no need to replace it other than to have a shiney new part.


Hey, what does "RTVd " mean? :hmm:

It means I applied RTV.

[sean]

Last I checked, the fancy alternator bracket was more of a fancy update and not a necessary item.

My current bracket works fine and there is no need to replace it other than to have a shiney new part.

But if it was $10 you'd be all over it.

[stevedmc]

But if it was $10 you'd be all over it.

Maybe.

[David T]

RTV

Return To Vendor

Room Temperature Vulcanizing

Take your pick
David Teitelbaum

[Ryan King]

Maybe.

Even though the price may be a bit steep, its worth it to me. When my Hervey pump failed when the pully fell off, tightening the Alternator on the side of the road was damn near impossible with that crappy bracket.

[stevedmc]

Even though the price may be a bit steep, its worth it to me. When my Hervey pump failed when the pully fell off, tightening the Alternator on the side of the road was damn near impossible with that crappy bracket.

I have never had a problem tightening my alternator. Its just one heck of an inconvenience because I use a floor jack to lift the alternator when tightening the belt. The only reason I would buy the fancy bracket is to be lazy and not have to take the heavy jack out of the trunk. But honestly, how often do I have to tension my alternator belt?

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $211.4616

Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31

Thanks to Farrar I spent another $31 on something I didn't really need. A while back he ordered us some fancy Porche dome lights and last night I got around to installing mine while at his apartment. It set me back a whopping $31. I didn't need it since my old one worked, but it was falling apart so I decided to replace it anyway.

I'm almost half way to my yearly budget and February isn't even over yet! :dead:

[DMCMW Dave]

[B]Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)


I'm curious about the price of the oil coming out to that extra $0.0016.

[stevedmc]

I'm curious about the price of the oil coming out to that extra $0.0016.


Please see post #57

Today I changed the oil with 7 gallons of Supertech 20W50 from Wal-Mart ($19.47 with tax) and a Bosch oil filter from Hervey ($4.9916 - It was part of a 6 pack I ordered last year for $29.95).

And yeah, I meant to say quarts, not gallons. Remember I have a public school education.

[jawn101]

Please see post #57

Gotta squeeze every ten-thousandth of a penny to hit this goal after all :)

[stevedmc]

87418742

Well I was on my way to church this morning and this happened. I bypassed it but the one gallon of coolant I carry was not enough to refill the system.

I was on interstate when it happened and was about 3 miles from the nearest gas station. Instead of calling someone to bring water/coolant I used my manual transmission to coast and glide the next 3 miles using the engine to speed up to 55 mph and shutting it off until I slowed to 35 mph. I did this a few times and was able to reach the gas station without overheating.

I filled up with tap water and made it home without a problem.

Now I'm going to have to flush the system because of the stinking tap water. Oh well, I need to pull the radiator anyway.

Incidentally, do any vendors sell heater control valves that are completely metal. This is the second plastic one I've had from Hervey to break.

[Michael]

87418742

Well I was on my way to church this morning and this happened. I bypassed it but the one gallon of coolant I carry was not enough to refill the system.

I was on interstate when it happened and was about 3 miles from the nearest gas station. Instead of calling someone to bring water/coolant I used my manual transmission to coast and glide the next 3 miles using the engine to speed up to 55 mph and shutting it off until I slowed to 35 mph. I did this a few times and was able to reach the gas station without overheating.

I filled up with tap water and made it home without a problem.

Now I'm going to have to flush the system because of the stinking tap water. Oh well, I need to pull the radiator anyway.

Incidentally, do any vendors sell heater control valves that are completely metal. This is the second plastic one I've had from Hervey to break.

If you were bone dry on coolant, the gauge is useless until the remaining coolant boils and the steam reaches the sensor.

You may have very well fried your heads.

[stevedmc]

If you were bone dry on coolant, the gauge is useless until the remaining coolant boils and the steam reaches the sensor.

You may have very well fried your heads.

I wasn't bone dry on coolant. I could see the gauge move and I had at least one gallon of coolant in the system after I made my roadside repair.

[jawn101]

87418742
Incidentally, do any vendors sell heater control valves that are completely metal. This is the second plastic one I've had from Hervey to break.

From the looks of it, Hervey's actually has more metal than Houston's. But the inlet is still plastic on both.

[stevedmc]

From the looks of it, Hervey's actually has more metal than Houston's. But the inlet is still plastic on both.

Wow. I wonder what Grady has. Hervey might repalce it under warranty but I'm not sure how long the warranty is on this part. I know I've had it at least a year.

And here goes another thing to debate. If all the vendors have is plastic, perhaps I should just go down to Autozone and see if they have one of this. I've I'm going to be getting plastic anyway, it might as well have a lifetime warranty.

[stevedmc]

And here is the official Stevedmc cross reference information.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=380367

Motorcraft Part # YG136

FORD BRONCO (1980 - 1994)
FORD E-100 (1979 - 1983)
FORD E-150 (1979 - 2004)
FORD E-250 (1979 - 2004)
FORD E-350 (1979 - 2004)
FORD E-450 (2000 - 2004)
FORD E-550 (2002 - 2003)
FORD F-100 (1974 - 1979)
FORD F-150 (1975 - 1979)
FORD F-250 (1974 - 1979)
FORD F-350 (1974 - 1979)
FORD FAIRLANE (1969 - 1970)
FORD FAIRMONT 1978
FORD FALCON (1969 - 1970)
FORD FIESTA 1978
FORD LTD (1969 - 1978)
FORD MAVERICK (1976 - 1977)
FORD MUSTANG II (1974 - 1978)
FORD PINTO (1974 - 1978)
FORD THUNDERBIRD (1968 - 1976)
FORD TORINO (1971 - 1976)
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL (1973 - 1978)
LINCOLN MARK III 1969
LINCOLN MARK IV (1972 - 1976)
MERCURY BOBCAT (1975 - 1978)
MERCURY COLONY PARK (1969 - 1971)
MERCURY COMET (1976 - 1977)
MERCURY COUGAR (1969 - 1976)
MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS (1975 - 1978)
MERCURY MARAUDER 1970
MERCURY MARQUIS 1972
MERCURY MONTEGO (1973 - 1974)

Oreilly Auto Parts sells a part identical to what I have but it costs $28 and only has a one year warranty.

AutoZone has a part that appears to be all plastic (unless the image is wrong), doesn't look the same, and the website doesn't specify how long the warranty is. The AutoZone part is only $10.

[Farrar]

Sounds like in addition to a bottle of antifreeze you should carry a 5/8" hose coupler in your car at all times in case of such an emergency. At least I think it is 5/8"... I have not gone outside to look at my car yet today.

If I remember correctly, the vacuum line that goes to the heater control valve shuts off the flow of hot water to the heater core when the air conditioning is set to "max." So in theory you could run without the heater control valve, but if you ever select "max" on your a/c you would have a vacuum leak -- and of course your a/c would not be as cool. I am not sure if the heater control valve has anything to do with heat or if it is just part of the air conditioning system, but I am sure someone else who knows better can chime in with this information.

Edit: after your two failures, I am getting nervous about my car's heater control valve!

[stevedmc]

What's ironic is I think the original valve was all metal. I replaced it because it was 30 years old and had lots of corrosion on it. Had I know I would have these problems I would have just brushed it off and left it in there.

I'm seriously thinking of getting two of the $10 units from autozone to keep one as a spare. I haven't had much luck with the motorcraft part so it can't hurt to try something different.

[jawn101]

I know they're just plastic but it really seems odd that they'd fail at such a high rate in your car when the cross-reference indicates that it's such a widely used part. I wonder if there could be something in how your hoses are routed that is putting strain on the plastic bits? Maybe there's a way to provide additional support to those supply hoses that would help increase the lifespan of the valve.

[stevedmc]

This is where I believe my repaired radiator is leaking. It appears to have a new weld in this spot.

8766


I know they're just plastic but it really seems odd that they'd fail at such a high rate in your car when the cross-reference indicates that it's such a widely used part. I wonder if there could be something in how your hoses are routed that is putting strain on the plastic bits? Maybe there's a way to provide additional support to those supply hoses that would help increase the lifespan of the valve.

The first failure I suspect to be my fault. I think I tightened the hose clamp to the plastic barb to tight and after a few weeks the part failed. I called Hervey, told him what happened and that I suspected it was my fault. He shipped me a replacement very quickly and didn't even ask me to send the old one back. It may have been my fault, but Hervey decided to replace it under warranty.

That was at least a year and a half ago. When I installed Hervey's replacement I made every effort to only tighten it enough to prevent from leaking. Well, it held up until this morning.

The only thing I can think of is I was sitting in stopped traffic for about 10 minutes. Most of my driving is at highway speeds and it isn't normal for me to stop with the engine running for extended amounts of time. Well, since air wasn't blowing over the radiator the temp gauge started to creep towards the half way mark. In my car the fans kick on at the half mark and run until the needle goes back down to the quarter mark so I was just watching the needle waiting for it to start going down.

Just after the temp gauge read half way, traffic started moving. I started driving expecting the highway air to bring the needle down to the quarter mark. Well, just as I was changing lanes I looked behind me and saw steam coming from the engine bay!

I didn't suspect this to be due to low coolant since I had topped it off before I got on the road. My radiator leak has been very minor and I've been doing fine just topping the thing off every couple hundred miles.

Upon inspection in the engine bay I found the valve had broke and that I had tons of coolant in my intake valley. I will remove my manifold later today to do the necessary cleanup. It is a good thing it only takes 3 minutes and 18 seconds to get to my valley.

Anyway, the only thing I can think of that might have triggered the problem with this control valve was the extended time I spent in traffic.

[stevedmc]

My AutoZone replacement was $10.39 with tax and comes with no warranty. I'll update the running total one it is installed.

8775

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $221.8516

Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)

I replaced the heater control valve tonight with an el cheapo part from AutoZone. As documented earlier in this thread, I used a part cross referenced to a 1980 Ford Bronco. Unfortunately this AutoZone part does not have a warranty. If it breaks I'll have to cough up another $10 for a replacement.

[DMCMW Dave]

Outside the box question - living where you live, how badly do you actually need a heater?

Recall that valve is only used to turn the heater core off on MAX-A/C. Any other time the valve is open. If you leave the valve out (i.e plumb around it) your A/C will not be quite as cold as it could. That's probably a big deal where you live.

OTOH if you bypass the heater completely, you won't have the valve to worry about (assuming you bypass it at the engine).

As for the failures, the valves don't often fail and I've replaced more due to rust than broken plastic. I've seen the valve leak where the lever is, and the vacuum inlet break off, but I can't say that I've seen the main plastic fitting break.

[stevedmc]

I could probably survive without heat, but we occasionally have winters as cold as 16 degrees. I wonder if I am doing something wrong or if I am just having bad luck.

I would think it wouldn't be possible to install this in reverse since its just an on off valve but perhaps I am installing them with the hoses connected the wrong way, resulting in my problems.

Oh well, the autozone part looks like it has some pretty thick plastic. I'll see how it holds up.

[DMCMW Dave]

I could probably survive without heat, but we occasionally have winters as cold as 16 degrees. I wonder if I am doing something wrong or if I am just having bad luck.

I would think it wouldn't be possible to install this in reverse since its just an on off valve but perhaps I am installing them with the hoses connected the wrong way, resulting in my problems.


If the valve is the wrong way you'd find the vacuum line a bit more difficult to connect as the fitting on the valve would be facing the wrong way.

[stevedmc]

If the valve is the wrong way you'd find the vacuum line a bit more difficult to connect as the fitting on the valve would be facing the wrong way.

That makes sense. I guess I had the old one installed the correct way.

[David T]

As Dave S mentions, the heater valve does not have a high failure rate. The fact it failed quickly and multiple times would suggest something wrong in your technique installing it. I have never seen one break, they either get stuck and won't move and/or leak. It may be possible if you overheat the motor you could "cook" the valve and make it more prone to breakage. It isn't an expensive part, just difficult to access and a little messy because of the coolant.
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

As Dave S mentions, the heater valve does not have a high failure rate. The fact it failed quickly and multiple times would suggest something wrong in your technique installing it. I have never seen one break, they either get stuck and won't move and/or leak. It may be possible if you overheat the motor you could "cook" the valve and make it more prone to breakage. It isn't an expensive part, just difficult to access and a little messy because of the coolant.
David Teitelbaum

I've never shifted the blame from myself to the part. I think I may have overtightened the dang thing somehow.

Anyway, its no big deal. I watch my gauges like crazy all of the time and I caught it before any real damage was done. It is also very easy for me to replace the part. You are forgetting how easy my engine access is vs a typical delorean.

[opethmike]

I've never shifted the blame from myself to the part. I think I may have overtightened the dang thing somehow.

Anyway, its no big deal. I watch my gauges like crazy all of the time and I caught it before any real damage was done. It is also very easy for me to replace the part. You are forgetting how easy my engine access is vs a typical delorean.

Mine too :)

I need to replace my hot water valve as well; I managed to break that stupid brittle vacuum line connection on mine while I was re-assembling my top end.

[sdg3205]

Steve, just a thought here -

Last week I drive down to DMC NW from Vancouver to pickup some parts from Toby. I get down there and low and behold there is a pool of coolant under the car. After one cooling system incident last year I watch it like a hawk.

It turns out one of my heater hoses (that I installed over a year ago) was occasionally rubbing on the axle boot. When Toby and John cleared out their shop and put the car up on the lift (they deserve their own appreciation thread just for this btw!) you could clearly see there was too much slack in the heater hose (the one that leaves the heater valve bound to the heater core). Even with a little pull it would extend well below the axle if given the opportunity.

My point is that you should check and ensure your hose isn't getting caught up or tugged by the axle or axle boot. It seems to me it could be enough pressure over time to weaken plastic on the heater valve.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $245.5016
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)

I dropped off my leaky radiator at a repair shop a few days ago and still haven't heard back from them. Hopefully they are repairing and testing it for free since I suspect it wasn't fixed right the first time.

Anyway, since I drained the coolant out of the system and have no spare coolant laying around the house I decided to make the trip to Wally World to purchase 2 gallons of coolant and 2 gallons of distilled water. The stuff is sitting in the back of my Geo Metro right now, waiting for the moment it gets mixed and put into the Delorean.

[stevedmc]

I just got off the phone with the radiator shop and the thing is ready to be picked up. I think I know what I will be doing tonight. Wish me luck.

[sean]

I just got off the phone with the radiator shop and the thing is ready to be picked up. I think I know what I will be doing tonight. Wish me luck.

Good luck supersteve!

[stevedmc]

Good luck supersteve!

Thanks. I'm going to need it since I'm hoping to spend no more than $4.50 until June.

[Farrar]

And in June you will be glad that you don't factor fuel cost in your modest budget. ;)

[stevedmc]

And in June you will be glad that you don't factor fuel cost in your modest budget. ;)

In June I will be able to afford gas because of my modest budget. People on the DML will be crying about gas like never before and I won't care.

Frankly I don't really care about gas prices. I look at gallons, not dollars when I buy gas.

[Michael]

In June I will be able to afford gas because of my modest budget. People on the DML will be crying about gas like never before and I won't care.

Frankly I don't really care about gas prices. I look at gallons, not dollars when I buy gas.

The number one question I get is where is the flux capacitor? The number 2 is what kind of mileage does it get? ....I never cared enough to find out either.

[stevedmc]

Well, I got the radiator mounted but it was getting too dark to finish up so I called it quits for the night. Today after work I plan to finish connecting the hoses, tighten everything, fill the system with tap water, and then pressure test and drive the thing a little bit.

After I have verified there are no leaks, I will drain the water, blow the system out with compressed air, and then fill it up with coolant and distilled water.

I am not putting my precious coolant in this thing until I know it is leak free.

I do have a few concerns about their recent repair. My dad went and picked up the radiator for me and I was shocked to see how dirty it was and that they used some sort of expoxy to do part of the repair this time. I really hope the thing holds.

The first repair looked so professional but it obviously wasn't fixed. The current repair looks so redneck. We will see if it lasts or not.

[Delorean Industries]

Well, I got the radiator mounted but it was getting too dark to finish up so I called it quits for the night. Today after work I plan to finish connecting the hoses, tighten everything, fill the system with tap water, and then pressure test and drive the thing a little bit.

After I have verified there are no leaks, I will drain the water, blow the system out with compressed air, and then fill it up with coolant and distilled water.

I am not putting my precious coolant in this thing until I know it is leak free.

I do have a few concerns about their recent repair. My dad went and picked up the radiator for me and I was shocked to see how dirty it was and that they used some sort of expoxy to do part of the repair this time. I really hope the thing holds.

The first repair looked so professional but it obviously wasn't fixed. The current repair looks so redneck. We will see if it lasts or not.

The last part of that made me smile.

[stevedmc]

The last part of that made me smile.

Care to offer me a discounted one at DCS if this one starts leaking? I think Hervey has the cheapest price but I'd love to buy from you if you find me entertaining.

Well the repaired radiator is installed. I put a pressure tester on it about an hour ago and left it at 15 pounds. So far no leaks.

The next thing on tonight's list is to hook up my ac compressor belt. I disconnected it last year when doing other work and have been too lazy to reinstall it.

After I get the ac belt reinstalled I will check my ac level and top off if it needs any.

The stinking AC belt reinstall didn't go too well. I was tensioning it and noticed the bracket was bending out. I later noticed that one of the bolts that holds the bracket onto the engine wouldn't stay in. It turns out the threads in the engine are stripped.

It looks like I will be driving to Walmart tonight with no AC. The good news is I am going to Walmart to get some of those new iPads to put on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Overnight-Shipping-Apple-iPad-3rd-Generation-16GB-Wi-Fi-9-7in-Black-/150778945821?pt=US_Tablets&hash=item231b20211d

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $247.0716
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57

Well, at least something went right tonight. I decided that since my car is drivable again it would be a good time to reinstall my interior rear view mirror. Using a piece of glue padding I purchased from eBay, I installed the rear view mirror and I can now see behind me.

Upon driving today I noticed my radiator appears to still have a stinking leak. This means I will not be going back to the repair shop to have them "fix" it. And I checked my refrigerant level and its way too low to top off with r134a. I'm guessing I will need a new condenser and radiator. The fascia needs to be repainted too because of the incident at the inspection station. I was going to paint it myself, but I'm seriously just thinking of calling my insurance company on Monday to discuss my options. It just stinks that this happened almost 3 months ago and I am just now calling the insurance company about it. I've got a $1,000 deductible which I didn't really want to spend but I'm fed up with this crap. I guess the title of this thread should be changed to how not to maintain your Delorean for less than $500 a year and put 10,000 miles on it.

[jawn101]

Total expenses to date: $247.0716
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57

Well, at least something went right tonight. I decided that since my car is drivable again it would be a good time to reinstall my interior rear view mirror. Using a piece of glue padding I purchased from eBay, I installed the rear view mirror and I can now see behind me.

Upon driving today I noticed my radiator appears to still have a stinking leak. This means I will not be going back to the repair shop to have them "fix" it. And I checked my refrigerant level and its way too low to top off with r134a. I'm guessing I will need a new condenser and radiator. The fascia needs to be repainted too because of the incident at the inspection station. I was going to paint it myself, but I'm seriously just thinking of calling my insurance company on Monday to discuss my options. It just stinks that this happened almost 3 months ago and I am just now calling the insurance company about it. I've got a $1,000 deductible which I didn't really want to spend but I'm fed up with this crap. I guess the title of this thread should be changed to how not to maintain your Delorean for less than $500 a year and put 10,000 miles on it.

Sorry to hear it Steve. Ambitious goal and maybe one you could have hit if it was just maintenance and not repairs too. No one could realistically maintain *and* repair ANY car for this money.

I wonder if you should subtract "damage and damage related expenses" and see if you can still do it?

[Michael]

I was saving this for(what I thought would be) later, but WTH :biggrin:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9to2vwDrac

[stevedmc]

Sorry to hear it Steve. Ambitious goal and maybe one you could have hit if it was just maintenance and not repairs too. No one can maintain *and* repair ANY car for this money.

I wonder if you should subtract "damage and damage related expenses" and see if you can still do it?

I'm going to keep this thread going, regardless of what I spend this year and people can make their own decision as to what I spent to maintain my car.

Below is my new shopping list. The main reason I want to buy from Hervey for this order is because he has a larger AC condensor than what the Houston guys are selling. And since I'm ticked off anyway, I might as well spend the $219 for new AC lines anyway, whether or not insurance will being paying for this stuff.

100415C New fans and radiator mounted & tested. $499.90
30591 AC compressor hoses R134A spliced. $219.00
106327HE AC condensor core only new $139.95
Total From Hervey: $858.85

In addition to this, if I do file the insurance claim I am going to insist that the fascia be painted. It only had a few small dings in it before the incident. Now its got all sorts of chips of paint missing. If I am going to spend $1,000 for a deductible I might as well get at least $1,000 worth of repairs.

[jawn101]

If I am going to spend $1,000 for a deductible I might as well get at least $1,000 worth of repairs.

Damn right.

[Ron]

I wonder if you should subtract "damage and damage related expenses" and see if you can still do it?Same here...it's repairs or insurance, not maintenance, so I don't think it should count.

The only solution I see is blackmail the inspector for repairs, and, at this point, make her play escort at DCF.

[stevedmc]

Why not simply post every penny you spend on the D? As long as you itemize, people can easily compare/adjust accordingly...(ie You may do work yourself or overpay on labor etc, etc.)


That's what I plan on doing, minus insurance, yearly inspection, and fuel.

Hmm... According to my own rules it seems I can pay the $1,000 deductible and it won't count toward my total. A deductible does count as insurance, right?

[DMCMW Dave]

Hmm... According to my own rules it seems I can pay the $1,000 deductible and it won't count toward my total. A deductible does count as insurance, right?

Well - it's your money but it is a casualty loss rather than maintenance.

[stevedmc]

Well its done. I got anxious and decided to call my insurance company's 24 hotline. I'll be hearing from the adjuster on Monday.

Now I just need a thousand dollars.

[dmc6960]

The main reason I want to buy from Hervey for this order is because he has a larger AC condensor than what the Houston guys are selling.

Now how do you know this? The condenser I got from Hervey in 2006 was pretty much the same size as the original (will need to go back and measure to know for sure), but it was a tube and fin design VS the OEM serpentine design. Quick lesson on AC condensers...

There are 3 types of condensers used on automotive AC systems. In order of efficiency, worst to best....

- Tube and Fin
- Serpentine
- Parallel Flow

The tube and fin I got was unpainted, VS the NOS which is painted black. That black paint acts as a insulator between the metal and the air. Therefore, I do believe the efficiency of a NOS condenser and a new tube an fin is about equal. I just dont want false information floating around, Hervey's tube and fin condenser is not bigger than DMC's NOS serpentine.

Now a whole 'nother story would be fitting the largest Parallel Flow condenser possible. That is something which would need to be custom fitted though as no vender I'm aware of already has one fitted and modified to properly mount on the radiator. I will be assisting another person doing this later this year, but that doesn't help you in the here and now. I have been very successfully running Hervey's tube and fin for 6 years now, but if I'm very successful in fitting the parallel flow, I'm going to get one for myself and do the same.

And I agree, and always have, with everyone else's opinion.
Incidental damage should not be counted towards maintenance costs!

[stevedmc]

I think Hervey brags on his website about his condensers being larger capacity for r134a. That was my reasoning that his was better.

I figured the bigger the condenser, the more air would hit it and cool down the refrigerant.

Hmm, I just checked Hervey's website and it says. "Handles R134A higher pressure". I'm not sure why I thought his were bigger. Thats all it really says about it.

[sean]

Now I just need a thousand dollars.

easy, just mark those iPads up. :D

[stevedmc]

easy, just mark those iPads up. :D

Suprisingly I can't find a buyer. I've marked the price down to cost + $50 and still haven't gotten any bites.

[DMCMW Dave]

I
I figured the bigger the condenser, the more air would hit it and cool down the refrigerant.
.

It really can't be bigger, it wouldn't fit. I've seen both, and the important thing is surface area of the freon tubes for air flow. The difference is round tubes vs flat tubes.

I don't see how at all how a round tube design could have more surface to the air. In fact, it seems to me that a round tube of a given cross-section (needed for a given flow) would have the least possible outside surface area compared to something flat(ter). This is mitigated by the use of fins, but that is done in both cases, and even the fin contact to the tubes should be better with flat tubes for the same reason.

I strongly suspect the round tube designs are simply much cheaper to manufacture, and if space isn't an issue that's what you use. I don't believe that in a given overall size they can be any more efficient.

[DMCMW Dave]

Suprisingly I can't find a buyer. I've marked the price down to cost + $50 and still haven't gotten any bites.

Maybe folks have finally figured out that if they wait a week or two they can buy it at normal list price. Or can order direct from Apple as well.

[DMC5180]

It really can't be bigger, it wouldn't fit. I've seen both, and the important thing is surface area of the freon tubes for air flow. The difference is round tubes vs flat tubes.

I don't see how at all how a round tube design could have more surface to the air. In fact, it seems to me that a round tube of a given cross-section (needed for a given flow) would have the least possible outside surface area compared to something flat(ter). This is mitigated by the use of fins, but that is done in both cases, and even the fin contact to the tubes should be better with flat tubes for the same reason.

I strongly suspect the round tube designs are simply much cheaper to manufacture, and if space isn't an issue that's what you use. I don't believe that in a given overall size they can be any more efficient.

I have the double row round tube version (installed by PO) about the only possible advantage I can see from it would be the overall length of tubing within the unit itself.

I think mine has more length than the stock flat tube style. Theoretically the gases would have more time to condense. Of coarse one could say the design is less efficient thereby needing the extra tubing to function properly.

[DMCMW Dave]

I think mine has more length than the stock flat tube style. Theoretically the gases would have more time to condense. Of coarse one could say the design is less efficient thereby needing the extra tubing to function properly.

Just for grins, compute the surface area of a flat tube vs a round tube at a given cross sectional area. Then measure the lenght of the tubes (would not be hard, measure one and multiply). I'm assuming the cross-sectional area should be constant to avoid restricting the flow. The hard part to calculate would be the efficiency added by the non-fluid-bearing fins.

[DMC5180]

2-row round tube type. 20 years ago I think this was considered the Heavy Duty / high performance version. Hard to say, I just know it works.

9043 9044'


Time to get back on topic.

[stevedmc]

Maybe folks have finally figured out that if they wait a week or two they can buy it at normal list price. Or can order direct from Apple as well.

Beats me but I really don't feel like walking into walmart to return 4 of these things. Besides, I could really use the points on my credit card. If I don't get any bites by the end of today I'm gonna try selling them at $25 above cost.

Shoot, I might even go stand outside the apple store with a sign.


Time to get back on topic.

Yeah, back on topic. One of the bolts that holds the idler pulley in place ain't staying snug so I'm going to have to repair the threads on the timing chain cover with a heli coil. I don't have a kit so I went to NAPA and ordered one for about $50.

Dad has the receipt since he will be picking it up on tuesday. I'll add that to the list when I put the new threads in probably on tuesday.

[DMC5180]

Beats me but I really don't feel like walking into walmart to return 4 of these things. Besides, I could really use the points on my credit card. If I don't get any bites by the end of today I'm gonna try selling them at $25 above cost.

Shoot, I might even go stand outside the apple store with a sign.

These aren't limited addition (NIKE) Ipads with rabid EBAY flippers camping outside.



Yeah, back on topic. One of the bolts that holds the idler pulley in place ain't staying snug so I'm going to have to repair the threads on the timing chain cover with a heli coil. I don't have a kit so I went to NAPA and ordered one for about $50.

Dad has the receipt since he will be picking it up on tuesday. I'll add that to the list when I put the new threads in probably on tuesday.


I would spread the cost of the kit out. It comes with 10 inserts. so for now you will be consuming 1 at $ 5.00 The rest of the kit can be used in the future so consider it a tool. I don't count tools as an expense since they can be used on other things.

[TTait]

One of the bolts that holds the idler pulley in place ain't staying snug so I'm going to have to repair the threads on the timing chain cover with a heli coil. I don't have a kit so I went to NAPA and ordered one for about $50. y.

Or, you could get a tap and go with the next bolt up in size, that would be about 10% of the cost of the helicoil kit...

[stevedmc]

Or, you could get a tap and go with the next bolt up in size, that would be about 10% of the cost of the helicoil kit...

Yeah, and then I would have to drill out the spacer to make it fit risking damage to it.

Incidentally, the place my insurance company wants me to use gave me a call this afternoon. Its called Bill Hood Collision Center in Hammond, LA.

I talked with their service manager and I just might let them do the work. He mentioned that his uncle owns a Delorean as well, so at least I won't have to answer a bunch of stupid questions from the service manager when I bring it in.

Shoot, I might even be able to get this guys uncle to join our local group.

Anyway, I told the guy I am a little busy this week and I will get it into his shop as soon as I can. He acted like he could meet me at the shop this Saturday if necessary.

I'll see how things go with the AC pulley and will take it from there.

[Farrar]

Bill Hood Collision Center in Hammond, LA.

Is that the same Bill Hood as owns several car dealerships around the state?

[stevedmc]

Is that the same Bill Hood as owns several car dealerships around the state?

I think so. They are a pretty big operation.

[Farrar]

That may be in your favour. I did not have much luck with a couple of smaller body shops when I was in some minor bump-ups after first moving down here, but my insurance company steered me toward Lakeside Collision in Metairie even though I had a Chrysler. They did a good job, had no problems with the insurance paperwork, and didn't drag their feet.

[stevedmc]

Well, in other news I have some more expenses to add to the list. I don't have my receipts in front of me so I'll just mention what I did in this post and I will update the numbers in a day or so.

Sometime last year I purchased a Puegot 604 manifold. I paid $165 for it shipped from Australia. It has been sitting in the closet since then. Well about 2 weeks ago Bill found out about it and offered to buy back my fabricated manifold/carb and to send me an adapter plate and carb that would fit this manifold. I shipped Bill my 604 manifold about a week ago via USPS for $14.65.

About two days ago it came in the mail and I began to install it. I had to replace my throttle cable because I messed up the end on my original cable and couldn't thread it as needed. I got a Delorean throttle cable with a pack of ends to crimp on the cable for about $4.20 at Home Depot.

I also installed two heli coils where the AC tensioner fastens into the engine. My dad paid something like $49.54 for the kit but I cant remember exactly. The receipt is at home. If the holes in the engine bay are the same I plan to heli coil where my manifold bolts down as well.

Bill has plans for my old manifold. I believe he plans to give me a rebate for the manifold I originally bought from him. Once I get my "rebate" this manifold change over will be free (including manifold) with some extra cash in my pocket. I'll update the numbers when it is all said and done.

[Farrar]

What sort of tools and materials do you need to crimp ends onto a wire rope/cable like you did with your new throttle cable? I have been putting off my cruise control installation because the end of the cable is frayed and I do not know how to fix it. Some sort of crimp would be perfect, I think.

[stevedmc]

What sort of tools and materials do you need to crimp ends onto a wire rope/cable like you did with your new throttle cable? I have been putting off my cruise control installation because the end of the cable is frayed and I do not know how to fix it. Some sort of crimp would be perfect, I think.

I used my vice grips and some sort of cheap aluminum crip ends. It is super easy to run a new cable. Next time I am in the area I will do it for you. I might even pay for the parts.

This is what I bought. I seem to remember the kit (set of 4) costing me a little more than $2.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1v/R-100239592/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=aluminum wire&storeId=10051

[sean]

I used my vice grips and some sort of cheap aluminum crip ends.

I've also gotten away with using copper tubing as a crimp.

[stevedmc]

It still amazes me how simple it is to get parts over the counter. I do believe in supporting my vendors but a nearly identical cable would have cost me $19 from DMCH plus shipping and waiting.

I got a nearly identical cable the day I needed it for less than what shipping would have cost from DMCH.

[Farrar]

I got a nearly identical cable the day I needed it for less than what shipping would have cost from DMCH.

Careful about that -- I got a nearly-identical cable when my old throttle cable snapped, but it was just steel wire rope and it snapped just like the first one after only a couple of months! I have since replaced with with a Teflon-coated stainless steel cable (which has lasted three years and counting), but that cable can't be had over the counter -- it had to be ordered from McMaster.

[DMCMW Dave]

Here is how to replace that pesky $22.95 left water pump hose for maybe $6...

9193

[Farrar]

Here is how to replace that pesky $22.95 left water pump hose for maybe $6...

Oy gevalt -- yet another pair of hose clamps! And what's with the rusty exhaust clamp holding up the pipe? I sure hope that was rectified, especially since there are properly-shaped coolant hoses available now!

[stevedmc]

Here is how to replace that pesky $22.95 left water pump hose for maybe $6...

9193




Oy gevalt -- yet another pair of hose clamps! And what's with the rusty exhaust clamp holding up the pipe? I sure hope that was rectified, especially since there are properly-shaped coolant hoses available now!

Looks like Bill's car to me.


Careful about that -- I got a nearly-identical cable when my old throttle cable snapped, but it was just steel wire rope and it snapped just like the first one after only a couple of months!

The thought has crossed my mind. Thats why I've got some spare wire in the car. One thing unique to my car is my redneck cruise control. Should my normal throttle cable snap, I will still be able to control throttle with my thumb throttle since it uses a seperate cable.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $480.1716
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)

I already mentioned expenses 10 - 12 but here they are again. Sometime last year I purchased a Peugeot 604 manifold from a guy in Australia for $165 shipped. It has been sitting in the closet since then and I have been in no rush to install it. A few weeks ago Captain Carburetor found out about it and offered to help me put it into service. The deal was that he would buy back my old carburetor and manifold after I put this manifold (with a different carb) into service. Once Bill puts my old manifold into service he is going to give me a some money effectively making this swap free plus cash. I will update the expenses once I get my rebate.

Expense #11 was already mentioned. My AC pulley bolts were coming loose and I had to install some heli coils to fix the problem. I also installed one of thos heli coils in my intake valley and plan to install some more eventually. I probably could have gotten this heli coil kit much cheaper but I ordered it at a NAPA store.

Expense #12 was due to me swapping manifolds. Its a long story but basically I screwed up the end of my existing throttle cable and ended up replacing the thing. I got my throttle cable "kit" at Home Depot for a little over $4.

On another note, surprisingly my radiator isn't leaking today. Believe it or not I am still waiting to hear from an insurance adjustor but I plan to just go ahead and pay my deductible for the repairs related to the inspections station incident. According to the rules of this thread, my insurance costs don't count towards the total. So really I could have a $20k deductible and it wouldn't matter for the purpose of this thread.

[stevedmc]

It's official. I should not have any Delorean problems for the next week or two. No just dropped it off at the collision center a few minutes ago.

[stevedmc]

I just got off the phone with my insurance company and they said the inspection station's insurance company will take care of the damages. They asked me to call the other insurance company and I did.

So things are looking pretty good and it looks like it will be a breeze to maintain my $500 budget once I get my rebate from Bill.

[stevedmc]

Man I need my silly little plastic car back. I got home last night and now my geo metro has a leaking fuel tank.

[stevedmc]

Man I need my silly little plastic car back. I got home last night and now my geo metro has a leaking fuel tank.

I was starting to get excited about the forum being down. My hope was I would no longer have this thread to update but it looks like it is back :(

Anyway, I got my car back from the shop Friday and did a little work to it since then. I will update the total either tonight or in a day or so.

Saturday I installed an electrical connector to one of the dome light wires. Yesterday I figured out another nice mod for the center ac vents (costs nothing) and last night I removed my new carburetor/manifold and put the old one back on. Updates and cost will be included soon.

[Farrar]

Steve, your $500 annual budget must not include tires. I just spent $650 on tires and a front-end alignment on my daily driver. Even without the alignment, it would have blown your budget when tax was added!

[stevedmc]

Steve, your $500 annual budget must not include tires. I just spent $650 on tires and a front-end alignment on my daily driver. Even without the alignment, it would have blown your budget when tax was added!

My $500 budget includes whatever I spend on the car for maintenance. If a person were to total up my expenses for the year minus the radiator/coolant (which insurance ended up replacing anyway) and the Peugeot 604 Manifold (which I am going to remove and sell), I am only at $135 for the year.

A little over a year ago I replaced my 10 year old tires with a complete set of Primewell tires from Firestone. The cost was about $375 including all taxes. On a $500 budget you don't replace all of your tires at once. You replace them as needed. At $375 for a set the cost for once tire would be about $95.

The cost for an alignment is irrelevant as well because I get free alignments for the life of my car at Firestone.

[Farrar]

The cost for an alignment is irrelevant as well because I get free alignments for the life of my car at Firestone.

Your Firestone must be better than mine. I had to argue my way up to the regional manager once because the local Firestone purposefully evacuated my R-134a in order to charge me for more "service." (Yes, I had proof.) Without assurance that the technician had been fired, I decided never to go there again.

[stevedmc]

Your Firestone must be better than mine. I had to argue my way up to the regional manager once because the local Firestone purposefully evacuated my R-134a in order to charge me for more "service." (Yes, I had proof.) Without assurance that the technician had been fired, I decided never to go there again.

Wow. I wouldn't go there on a $500 budget. Anyway, I have found Firestone at the Cortana Mall in Baton Rouge to be most helpful. When I had my first alignment done I was told no by many places, including Firestone, until someone refered me to the Cortana location. They have a guy working there who is older than dirt and ain't scared of nothin. Needless to say, he is the guy who does my alignment work.

[Michael]

On a $500 budget you don't replace all of your tires at once. You replace them as needed. .

:thinkin: I can't be sure but....Are you being serious?

[stevedmc]

:thinkin: I can't be sure but....Are you being serious?

If one tire runs over a nail and the others don't do you replace all of them or just the one with the hole in it?

Also, our cars are rear wheel drive. Our rear wheels will wear out before the front tires. Worse case scenario is I will have to replace two tires at a time costing $95 each.

[DMCMW Dave]

If one tire runs over a nail and the others don't do you replace all of them or just the one with the hole in it?
.

OR 3) Patch the hole.


Actually the real answer would depend on the condition of the other tire. If it is very worn compared to a new one, you get both. If the matching tire is no longer available, you get both. If the damaged tire is relatively new AND still available, buy one.

[stevedmc]

OR 3) Patch the hole.

Awesome idea. Although, I tried that with the radiator and it didn't work out so well.

[Dracula]

I managed to wear through three of my tires on the DeLorean in 2 years, so; yes, I do replace them as a set. For my 1967 Rolls Royce; it hasn't moved in 20 years, so you better believe that I'll be replacing all 4 at once. When working on older cars, or if you have a spiteful ex-girlfriend, it's fairly common to replace all 4 tires at once.

[stevedmc]

Realistically, everything else Dave said is right. Replacing tires all depends on the age of the tires. My front tires (before getting new Primewells) actually looked good but upon checking the numbers on the tire, the shop was able to determine they were about 10 years old. The tires still looked good but my imediate response was, replace the tire. I may be cheap but there is no way I am going to drive on 10 year old tires.

Because of our cars having different size tires there really is no need to replace all of them at once, unless you have a neglected car with really old tires. On a normal car, with normal use, it would make sense to replace all tires when the tread is low. With a Delorean it is not possible to rotate tires from front to back.

This means that your rear tires will naturally wear out faster than the front tires. It would be foolish to replace all four tires at once unless somehow the fronts managed to magically have the same amount of wear as the rear tires.

[Farrar]

In the case of my DeLorean, the tires will warrant replacement due to age before mileage. I bought new tires in 2008. Four years later, they have fewer than 20,000 miles on them. At this rate, by the time they reach their (80,000-mile) theoretical tread life, they will be 16 years old. I don't take a lot of very long trips in either of my cars, so I have decided that although I like the toughness of high-mileage-rated tires, there's no need for me to buy anything more than a 40,000-mile tire. I just did that on my daily driver and am very satisfied with how quiet and smooth the new tires are. (It probably also helps that they are made in the USA, not China. A few bucks more per tire but worth it.)

Edit: I should point out that when I bought the 80,000-mile tires for Sparky, I intended to drive the car a lot, splitting the time more or less equally with my daily driver of the time. But the a/c failure, dying transmission computer, and leaky output shafts kicked that plan in its nuts.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $302.2816
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)

(Expense #13) Last Saturday we had a tech day at my house. I removed my dome light to test it on someone else's car who was having problems with his dome light. One of my wire connectors broke off so I replaced it with one I had laying around. I have no clue what it costs since I bought it in a big pack of connectors a few years ago but it couldn't have been any more than a dime. For the sake of this thread however, I am going to say it cost me a quarter.

(Expense #14 and #15) As mentioned on expense #10 I installed a new manifold and carburetor on my car. After driving around with it for a while I decided it wasn't for me. While it did look pretty, I prefer the effiiency of Bill's dual plane manifold and how much easier it is to access the distributor with Bill's manifold. I removed the Peugeot 604 manifold, reinstalled Bill's manifold and I am selling the Peugot Manifold for my cost ($179.65) plus whatever Bill has tied up in his adapter and the carb. I am deducting this from my total. I had to disconnect the throttle cable when swapping manifolds and this resulted in me breaking the screw that holds the cable tight. I replaced the screw with an aluminum crimp I purchased in a set at Lowes.

[Farrar]

Can you post a picture of the crimp and tool that you bought at Lowe's? I need to do something similar with my cruise control cable.

Thanks!

[stevedmc]

Can you post a picture of the crimp and tool that you bought at Lowe's? I need to do something similar with my cruise control cable.

Thanks!

I'll bring you the rest of the bag tomorrow, free of charge.

[sean]

Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)

curious as to why you are deducting this since it was never apart of your costs on the year.

[stevedmc]

curious as to why you are deducting this since it was never apart of your costs on the year.

Did you look at expense #10?

Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)

These pictures are for Farrar. I got the whole bag for $1.51 after tax. For a cable with a clean end you should use a 1/16 crimp. I used a 3/32 crimp because the end of my cable is frayed and it would have been too difficult to have threaded it through the smaller hole. I just used a set of vice grips to crimp the end onto the cable.


9797979897999800

[David T]

Your goal of spending $500 a year is a lot more 'doable" if you amortize your expenses over more years. Tires are a good example of why. This way your average yearly cost of $500 per year could work. If you figure tires cost $400 and they are good for 10 years they are only costing you $40 for each year. By using standard accounting techniques you will easily reach your goal depending on how much driving (how fast you wear things out) you do. Unless you get unlucky and have an unforseen incident (like overheating the motor).
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

Let it be known that last night I made another purchase as well. I bit the bullet and decided to buy the parts to make a new altenator tightening bracket thingie. It cost about $50 for the parts plus shipping. My total will be updated once I receive the parts and install them.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3186-Adjusting-alternator-tension

[Farrar]

Be careful not to overtighten the tension on the alternator belt. It's easy to do with that new linkage. But nonetheless, I think you'll like it. Just make sure you have two 5/16" wrenches handy.

[stevedmc]

Be careful not to overtighten the tension on the alternator belt. It's easy to do with that new linkage. But nonetheless, I think you'll like it. Just make sure you have two 5/16" wrenches handy.

Yeah. I've noticed even with a stock bracket that overtightening can be a bad thing. I saw smoke come from one of my belts one time because it was too tight.

[sean]

Did you look at expense #10?


Nope.

[stevedmc]

Nope.

How about now?

[sean]

How about now?

Working on it.

[dvonk]

Nope.

http://dev.bukkit.org/media/images/37/414/NopeChuckTesta-2.jpg

[stevedmc]

I love being cheap. I'm at Firestone right now waiting for a free alignment.

9819

While waiting for Firestone to do my alignment I walked over to Lowes and bought a bag of black screws for $1.22 after tax. I hope to use two of these screws to fasten the black lip of my binnacle.

[Farrar]

Which car do you have aligned at Firestone?

[stevedmc]

Which car do you have aligned at Firestone?

16510

[Dracula]

16510

You must have found the most competent one in the US.

[stevedmc]

9820
You must have found the most competent one in the US.

This is my third alignment. So far This has been the only place to get things right.

[Farrar]

Did you print out the TSB about alignment (http://dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-34-1.82.html) or are the specifications already in their computer?

[stevedmc]

Did you print out the TSB about alignment (http://dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-34-1.82.html) or are the specifications already in their computer?

It's in the computer.

[Dangermouse]

You must have found the only competent one in the US.

Fixed.

After my experiences there on Friday with my DD I wouldn't bring the D with a mile of the place. Talk about wanting to up sell you things !

[stevedmc]

9821The old guy wasn't there today but a younger guy took care of it. He said he couldn't adjust the caster on this car. Is this normal? The car seems to drive fine.

[dmc6960]

Yes, only the Toe is adjustable on the car.

I'm sure you've had perfectly good reasons, but playing Devils Advocate...


This is my third alignment. So far This has been the only place to get things right.

If they truly "got it right", then why have you been there three times now?

[Dracula]

If they truly "got it right", then why have you been there three times now?

I think he means that it's his third one overall. Correct me if I'm wrong, though.

[stevedmc]

Yes, only the Toe is adjustable on the car.

I'm sure you've had perfectly good reasons, but playing Devils Advocate...



If they truly "got it right", then why have you been there three times now?

Because I've done suspension work several times and have a lifetime alignment plan on the Delorean.

Is caster related to spring height? I have stock springs.

[Farrar]

The directions say that the setting height should be measured at 5.5 inches, and that the car may need to be jacked or weighed down to accommodate that height before making any adjustments. The height is measured at the front crossmember, and at the crossmember underneath the engine. Since your car has stock springs, you should be somewhere near 5.5 inches anyway.

[Kevin]

Because I've done suspension work several times and have a lifetime alignment plan on the Delorean.

Is caster related to spring height? I have stock springs.

Yes springs can affect caster. Caster is the angle of the steering axis as seen from the side and is only a handling angle, it won't affect tire wear. Too much positive caster will make the vehicle more difficult to steer and may make the ride rougher, and uneven caster like yours may make the vehicle pull to one side (looks like it may pull to the left, looking at your alignment numbers, which is normal for America and our tapered roads). If you're not having these handling problems, you should be fine.

[stevedmc]

The guy at the Firestone place told me it Would pull to the left as well. Surprisingly it isn't.

[DMCMW Dave]

The directions say that the setting height should be measured at 5.5 inches, and that the car may need to be jacked or weighed down to accommodate that height before making any adjustments. The height is measured at the front crossmember, and at the crossmember underneath the engine. Since your car has stock springs, you should be somewhere near 5.5 inches anyway.

Have you ever tried that? To get a stock car to 5.5 inches in the front takes about 400 pounds in the trunk, and the car will look exactly like a lowered car. This is a place where I don't believe the manual, because if you follow it you'll find your front tires don't last very long.

[David T]

All too often I have found you are lucky to get what you pay for. In the case of getting something for nothing you cannot expect very much. Quantity (having them align the car many times) cannot always make up for quality (doing it right the first time). For something as important for safety as a good alignment , maybe you should find a better shop. Aligning a car is not "Rocket Science". You should be able to find a shop that can do it right the first time. If the car won't hold an alignment that is a sign of worn parts. A bad alignment can cause dangerous handling characteristics and severe tire wear (so can bent or worn parts). Before taking the car to a shop you should:
Empty the car of all the "junk"
Check tire pressures
Check that the steering wheel is centered when driving straight on a flat road
Check if the car leads or pulls to either side (no brakes and no hands on the steering wheel)
Check each tire for wear
Fill the fuel tank to 1/2
There should be no play or looseness in the steering or vibration

All 4 wheels must be checked and adjusted if necessary. A 4 wheel alignment ranges form $80 to $150 depending on where it is done and by who. Can be done in as little as 20 minutes and can take as long as an hour or more if parts have to be replaced.
David Teitelbaum

[stevedmc]

All too often I have found you are lucky to get what you pay for. In the case of getting something for nothing you cannot expect very much. Quantity (having them align the car many times) cannot always make up for quality (doing it right the first time). For something as important for safety as a good alignment , maybe you should find a better shop. Aligning a car is not "Rocket Science". You should be able to find a shop that can do it right the first time. If the car won't hold an alignment that is a sign of worn parts. A bad alignment can cause dangerous handling characteristics and severe tire wear (so can bent or worn parts). Before taking the car to a shop you should:
Empty the car of all the "junk"
Check tire pressures
Check that the steering wheel is centered when driving straight on a flat road
Check if the car leads or pulls to either side (no brakes and no hands on the steering wheel)
Check each tire for wear
Fill the fuel tank to 1/2
There should be no play or looseness in the steering or vibration

All 4 wheels must be checked and adjusted if necessary. A 4 wheel alignment ranges form $80 to $150 depending on where it is done and by who. Can be done in as little as 20 minutes and can take as long as an hour or more if parts have to be replaced.
David Teitelbaum

Did you read what I said about suspension work? I bring the car in for an alignment anytime I do anything suspension related. Would you replace your steering wrack without getting an alignment afterwards?

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $304.6016 Miles Driven: 1,946
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,000 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,025 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)

Over the weekend I had a little fun with the car. Saturday I drove about 200 miles in one day and had a blast. About 120 miles into my driving I decided to stop at Firestone for a free alignment as I have a lifetime alignment plan on the car.

I also got tired of looking at my sagging black piece of plastic in the binnacle. I went into Lowes and bought a small bag of black screws which ended up being too short. I believe I paid $1.21 for the first bag of screws. Normally I wouldn't return such an item for a refund but for the sake of this thread I walked back into Lowes with my receipt in hand and asked for a refund of $1.21. I then went back to hardware and bought bag of longer black screws that worked perfectly.

[Farrar]

Have you ever tried that? To get a stock car to 5.5 inches in the front takes about 400 pounds in the trunk, and the car will look exactly like a lowered car. This is a place where I don't believe the manual, because if you follow it you'll find your front tires don't last very long.

No, I haven't tried that. I have never aligned my car... :eek: Then again, I haven't driven it much the past two years. :( I do know that on stock springs, with all of my toolboxes and a floor jack in the trunk, it did look like a lowered car, and was also incredibly difficult to steer at low speeds.

So the workshop manual also says 5.5 inches? (I was quoting the later TSB.) Now I have the urge to go back to the workshop manual and see what they changed with the TSB, or whether it was simply a more detailed explanation. I love looking into history. :)

[stevedmc]

I have never aligned my car I was going to offer you a free alignment at Firestone until I saw them documenting my mileage, vin tags, and license plate numbers.

[Farrar]

I was going to offer you a free alignment at Firestone until I saw them documenting my mileage, vin tags, and license plate numbers.

Thanks, but the shop literally down the street from where I live charges $89+ for a front-end alignment, which is a fair price in my opinion. If I can get the engine to quit missing...

[Michael]

We are at the end of April and you have not even broke 2,000 miles. You better get on it if you are going to clock 10k by the end of the year.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $304.6016 Miles Driven: 2,646
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)

The purpose of this post is to correct a mistake I made with my mileage. The current odometer reading is beyond 46,725. The mileage entries in my previous post were wrong.


Edit: I should be beyond 47,000 by the end of the week.

Total expenses to date: $360.5016 Miles Driven: 2,794
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)

Last night the parts for my expensive McMaster alternator bracket arrived. I installed it last night and it was very nice and easy to install. I love tightening my belt with just a wrench. Super easy!

Total expenses to date: $384.4216 Miles Driven: 2,923
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)

Last night I went to Meineke and had them balance the front tires for $10.50 a tire plus tax.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $408.8932 Miles Driven: 3,159
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)

Today I changed the oil with 7 quarts of Supertech 20W50 from Wal-Mart ($19.48 with tax) and a Bosch oil filter from Hervey ($4.9916 - It was part of a 6 pack I ordered last year for $29.95).

On another note, I have decided to take the plunge and order a set of Ed's LCA outriggers from DMCMW. I'm going to give Julie a call tomorrow and spend $340 (plus shipping) just because I want to. So it looks like I'm going to be way beyond $500 for the year.

[Ron]

IMHO, $125.23 for radiator repairs should not count...you virtually gave that away!

[stevedmc]

IMHO, $125.23 for radiator repairs should not count...you virtually gave that away!

Yeah. I threw away a ton of money on the radiator and coolant. I suck.

[dvonk]

yeah, steve sucks.

[Ron]

Yeah. I threw away a ton of money on the radiator and coolant. I suck.
If I understand it correctly, you (doing that) didn't suck...pretty cool actually (as long as the lady appreciated the gesture) -- Ya just debited the wrong account.

[Dangermouse]

The corollary of this thread is:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3792-42K-restoration

"How to maintain your Delorean for $10,000 a year and put 500 miles on it"

[Ron]

The corollary of this thread is:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3792-42K-restoration

"How to maintain your Delorean for $10,000 a year and put 500 miles on it"
AKA "Ron's 'DeLorean Notebook'"

[Dracula]

The corollary of this thread is:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3792-42K-restoration

"How to maintain your Delorean for $10,000 a year and put 500 miles on it"

Or just visit DeLorean One.

[stevedmc]

Just got off the phone with Julie at DMCMW. As always, she is super nice to deal with and actually made me smile while I called her to spend $340 (plus shipping) for the LCA Outriggers.

[opethmike]

I've been thinking about doing these. Consider doing a write-up on the installation process, please?

[stevedmc]

I've been thinking about doing these. Consider doing a write-up on the installation process, please?

I'll see what I can do. Keep in mind that according to some people, these are unnecessary.

[opethmike]

Well, I don't want to start a debate, but I disagree with those people :) Particularly with my car now being souped up, the weaknesses in the suspension and brakes are becoming more apparent.

[Dracula]

Just got off the phone with Julie at DMCMW. As always, she is super nice to deal with and actually made me smile while I called her to spend $340 (plus shipping) for the LCA Outriggers.

So are you factoring these in as "optional" equipment that's unrelated to necessary spending/maintenance for the sake of your budget? I'd say you can and have it mentioned as an addendum of "unnecessary purchases" or those unrelated to direct maintenance.

After having them on my car, I'd say that they ARE a needed upgrade, though.

[opethmike]

This may be an odd sounding question, but would you say you experience an improvement in heavy braking feel?

[jawn101]

You guys have me curious again on these. I dismissed them when Martin said they weren't *necessary* but besides the cost, I don't see any reason not to do them. And if Steve's gonna do it, knowing how carefully he's weighing his decisions and expenses this year that says something. Even if they don't count toward his total.

The question is, how do you guys drive your cars? Is it more day to day city and highway driving, or would you characterize your style as more "spirited"? The majority of my drive time is cruising straightaways, but on a recent drive through the mountains I definitely noticed some handling deficiencies. That isn't my norm, though - so if that's the only situation these would help in, I'd probably still give them a miss. Do you think they make a noticeable difference in normal, low-key driving as well?

[Farrar]

I volunteer to accompany Steve and take lots of photos for the installation of the LCA braces, as a service to the community ... and as a service to myself since I plan to do this as well (eventually).

[stevedmc]

So are you factoring these in as "optional" equipment that's unrelated to necessary spending/maintenance for the sake of your budget? I'd say you can and have it mentioned as an addendum of "unnecessary purchases" or those unrelated to direct maintenance.

After having them on my car, I'd say that they ARE a needed upgrade, though.

Its being factored in with all of other exenses. At the end of the year I will give everyone a breakdown of what was necessary and what wasn't. If a person wants to maintain their car for less then $500 a year they can just avoid the uneccessary expenses.


You guys have me curious again on these. I dismissed them when Martin said they weren't *necessary* but besides the cost, I don't see any reason not to do them. And if Steve's gonna do it, knowing how carefully he's weighing his decisions and expenses this year that says something. Even if they don't count toward his total.

I did some reading on the UK forum before making my decision and read somewhere that Ed once offered a money back guarantee to anyone that wasn't happy with the improvement after installing them. I don't know if he still offers that or not but to me that is a pretty impressive offer. I would never ask Dave/Julie to give me the same deal, but based on everything I've read about them (and Ed's offer), I have no doubt that I will be pleased with this product.


I volunteer to accompany Steve and take lots of photos for the installation of the LCA braces, as a service to the community ... and as a service to myself since I plan to do this as well (eventually).

Sounds like a good article for GulfCoastDeloreans.com

[jawn101]

I did some reading on the UK forum before making my decision and read somewhere that Ed once offered a money back guarantee to anyone that wasn't happy with the improvement after installing them. I don't know if he still offers that or not but to me that is a pretty impressive offer. I would never ask Dave/Julie to give me the same deal, but based on everything I've read about them (and Ed's offer), I have no doubt that I will be pleased with this product.


I've no doubt that they will perform as advertised, I'm just curious if the difference would be noticed under average/gentle driving conditions.

[stevedmc]

I've no doubt that they will perform as advertised, I'm just curious if the difference would be noticed under average/gentle driving conditions.

I've heard from one source that his car once had a vibration in the steering wheel at speeds past 60 mph. He said this made the vibration go away.

So yeah, if this is true, then it would be noticible to just about anyone that drives on the interstate.

[Ron]

Damn, it seems Steve took me wrong and is not speaking to me now...

I was only trying to bring your bottom line down and give you some wiggle room..

[stevedmc]

Damn, it seems Steve took me wrong and is not speaking to me now...

I was only trying to bring your bottom line down and give you some wiggle room..

Nah, I ain't mad at nobody. Incidentaly, do you need lodging at DCS? Right now I think its me, Bill, and Farrar, but there is still room for one more.


Well, I don't want to start a debate, but I disagree with those people :) Particularly with my car now being souped up, the weaknesses in the suspension and brakes are becoming more apparent.

People with K-Jet have certain problems that keep them from worrying about things such as suspension and brakes.

[Ron]

Nah, I ain't mad at nobody. Incidentaly, do you need lodging at DCS? Right now I think its me, Bill, and Farrar, but there is still room for one more.Thanks for asking! but I promised Alex I would pile up with him if I can make it. (Coincidently, he is MIA...No email replies...he mentioned a possible trip overseas but never said he was going. I figured him back by now in any event???)

Since you aren't mad at me (and some never quit), I guess I can poke you one more time about making the agent lady escort you at DCS, or pay your deductible.:deviltail:

[stevedmc]

Thanks for asking! but I promised Alex I would pile up with him if I can make it. (Coincidently, he is MIA...No email replies...he mentioned a possible trip overseas but never said he was going. I figured him back by now in any event???)

Since you aren't mad at me (and some never quit), I guess I can poke you one more time about making the agent lady escort you at DCS, or pay your deductible.:deviltail:

Yeah buddy. I don't get mad at anyone. Even the binnacle guy.

[stevedmc]

I installed the Ed's LCA outriggers and wow, they are awesome. I can now drive on the interstate without my wheel vibrating. This is a sad thing to say but my Delorean now handles better than my Geo Metro.

I'll update the total tomorrow. Its late and I'm ready for bed.

[opethmike]

I installed the Ed's LCA outriggers and wow, they are awesome. I can now drive on the interstate without my wheel vibrating. This is a sad thing to say but my Delorean now handles better than my Geo Metro.

I'll update the total tomorrow. Its late and I'm ready for bed.

How was the install? Straight forward?

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $770.6732 Miles Driven: 3,382
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - April 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)

I finally gave in and installed a fancy set of Ed's LCA brackets. They are super nice and the car handles better than ever. So much for my budget. I'll keep updating this thread as I do stuff to the car though.

[ccurzio]

Total expenses to date: $770.6732

Impressive. How long did it take you to cut up those pennies?

[stevedmc]

Impressive. How long did it take you to cut up those pennies?

Not all of the expenses were necessary. If you want to maintain your delorean for less than $500 a year just cut out the uneccessary expenses.

[ccurzio]

Not all of the expenses were necessary. If you want to maintain your delorean for less than $500 a year just cut out the uneccessary expenses.



Joke





Your Head

[dvonk]

Total expenses to date: $770.6732

the scientist in me (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_digits) cringes at the sight of all those digits... :nervous:

:wink:

glad to hear the LCA brackets are such an improvement!

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $770.6732 Miles Driven: 3,561
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00

Two days ago my car started having trouble shifting into first and second gear. First I checked the transmission fluid and it was full. Next, upon Farrar and Martin's suggestion, I checked the shift linkage cable and determined it needed to be adjusted. I made the necessary adjustment, with the help of my lovely assistant, and the car is now shifting just fine. Total expense for this was zero dollars and zero cents. While I was under the car I also adjusted my Spax Shocks.

On another note, I may not be making my drive to Delaware this as planned. Next month I will be working in Baltimore for a week and of course the company I work for is paying for the flight. I am planning to extend my stay a few days and visit Delaware and Pennsylvania while I am up there. I'll still make two long trips in the Delorean this year. Orlando will be next month and the second long trip is yet to be determined. Maybe I'll go hang out with Ron and Sean at one of their tech sessions.

[sean]

While I was under the car I also adjusted my Spax Shocks..
Do you know how many clicks you are at?



Maybe I'll go hang out with Ron and Sean at one of their tech sessions.

July and August work for me!

[stevedmc]

Do you know how many clicks you are at?



July and August work for me!

Yep. I set them to the firmest setting just to see how the car rides with firm shocks and Eds brackets. I'll probably soften them in a few days.

Sometime this summer for a tech day would be great although I can't afford to spend any money on my car. J/k

[Lou and "Boo"]

Yep. I set them to the firmest setting just to see how the car rides with firm shocks and Eds brackets. I'll probably soften them in a few days.

Sometime this summer for a tech day would be great although I can't afford to spend any money on my car. J/k

Steve, will you be by Long Island this summer, we could get together and have some diet cheerwine. I can have Bill send me some .LOL

Louis Duet
"Boo" #5835
Baldwin, NY

[stevedmc]

Steve, will you be by Long Island this summer, we could get together and have some diet cheerwine. I can have Bill send me some .LOL

Louis Duet
"Boo" #5835
Baldwin, NY

Don't know. I've got no plans to be in NY, but if I am I will be sure to let you know. On another note, my next extended drive (after orlando) will involve stopping somewhere and purchasing as much diet cheerwine as I can possibly fit in the Delorean. Its going to be very interesting.

[stevedmc]

Well, I'm to lazy to go outside to get the exact mileage but I rolled past 48,000 miles this weekend.

[stevedmc]

Total expenses to date: $773.1732 Miles Driven: 5,140
Expense #1 (Radiator Leak) - January 7, 2012 - 44,079 Miles - Total Cost: $117.83 (including tax)
Expense #2 (Radiator Leak) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $7.40 (including tax)
Expense #3 (Replaced windshield wipers) - January 15, 2012 - 44,386 Miles - Total Cost: $17.54 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Oil Change) - January 21, 2012 - 44,643 Miles - Total Cost: $24.4616 (including tax)
Expense #4 (Reinstalled steering column bushing) - January 22, 2012 - 44,693 - Total Cost: $1.35 (including tax)
Expense #5 (bought coolant and water) - February 20, 2012 - 45,000 - Total Cost: $11.88 (including tax)
Expense #6 (replaced rear interior light) - February 23, 2012 - 45,500 - Total Cost: $31 (no tax and free shipping courtesy of Farrar)
Expense #7 (replaced heater control valve) - March 4, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: $10.39 (including tax)
Expense #8 (bought more coolant/water) - March 7, 2012 - 45,766 - Total Cost: 23.65 (including tax)
Expense #9 (glued rear view mirror to windshield) - March 16, 2012 - 45,772 - Total Cost: $1.57
Expense #10 (604 Manifold and Shipping to Captain Carburetor) - March 22, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $179.65
Expense #11 (7mm Helicoil Kit) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $49.25 (including tax)
Expense #12 (throttle cable) - March 23, 2012 - 45,840 - Total Cost: $4.20ish (I lost my receipt)
Expense #13 (new wire connector) - April 14, 2012 - 46,123 - Total Cost: $0.25ish (part was laying around)
Expense/Deduction #14 (removed 604 manifold/carb) - April 15th, 2012 - 46,200 - Total Cost: -$179.65 (selling it)
Expense #15 (installed new crimp on throttle cable) - April 16th, 2012 - 46,220 - Total Cost : $1.51 (including tax)
Expense #16 (alignment) - April 21, 2012 - 46,700 - Total Cost: Free (I have a lifetime alignment plan)
Expense #17 (reinforced black lip of binnacle with black screw) - April 21, 2012 - 46,725 - Total Cost: $2.32 (including tax)
Expense # 18 (installed adjustable alternator bracket) - April 24, 2012 - 46,873 - Total Cost: $55.90 (including shipping from McMaster)
Expense # 19 (front wheel balance) - April 26, 2012 - 47,002 - Total Cost $23.92 (including tax/fees)
Expense #20 (oil change) - April 29, 2012 - 47,238 - Total Cost $24.4716 (including tax)
Expense #21 (LCA Brackets from DMCMW) - May 2, 2012 - 47,461 - Total Cost $361.78 (including shipping)
Expense #22 (Shift Linkage) - May 5, 2012 - 47,640 - Total Cost $0.00
Expense #23 (Weather stripping glue, CB Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Fixed some rattles) - June 12, 2012 - 49,219 - Total Cost $2.50

I did a few little tid bits to make the drive to DCS more pleasant.

My weather stripping was coming loose on the rear panels so I glued it back with some black RTV. The job was a little messy but I estimate the cost to be about 50 cents worth of RTV.

I decided I wanted to use a CB radio for the trip. I put my nice magnetic antenna on the T Panel and connected the CB directly to my car battery. No expense was involved with this. I bough this equipment over 10 years ago and I'm not counting it as a Delorean expense. The CB is sitting unmounted on the rear parcel shelf.

I also decided I wanted to use my radar detector. I ran new wire to my cigarette lighter as there was a problem with the old wiring. Between two pieces of wire, two easy connects, and two terminals I couldn't have used more than $2 worth of material.

I also decided to fix a rattle that was coming from below the parcel shelf on both sides of the car. I fixed the rattle by pressing cardboard into the areas that were rattling. There is no longer a rattle and the cardboard was free courtesy of the USA tax payer. I used USPS Priority Mail boxes for my cardboard.

[Dangermouse]

I decided I wanted to use a CB radio for the trip. I put my nice magnetic antenna on the T Panel and connected the CB directly to my car battery. No expense was involved with this.


OK, Steve, just to show that we are paying attention and actually reading this, how did you manage this?

[stevedmc]

OK, Steve, just to show that we are paying attention and actually reading this, how did you manage this?

Stainless is made out of metal. Magnets stick to metal. I can demonstrate at DCS if you would like.

[SamHill]

Stainless is made out of metal. Magnets stick to metal. I can demonstrate at DCS if you would like.



http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ymanBY3N_5A/Ta7OBYyC4OI/AAAAAAAAEYQ/Eu2aenetb8Y/s1600/magnets-how-do-they-work.jpg10987

[Farrar]

Actually, the stainless itself is not ferrous enough, so the magnet is attracted to the steel roof cage underneath it.