Water Pump Pulley Press on Vs. 4 Bolt

[1batt4u]

Hi all,

I was wondering, is there a big difference between the Water pumps Press on Pulley and 4 bolt Pulley, other than looks?

I currently have John Hervey's 4 bolt pulley/pump set up. Still yet to be installed on my car. Only thing is the 4 bolt Pulley I bought from specialtauto, advertised as aluminum pulley, clear anodized. It is a light silver/grey color rather than clear anodized, and too heavy. I have Billet Pulleys for my Trans Am, 5.7L. Was comparing to the Trans Am's water pump pulley which is a little more bigger than Hervey's and much lighter and thinner. Hervey's is too thick and heavy.

I preferably love the 4 bolt pulley look. The press on looks old fashion. I have also heard of the press on slipping off. I believe I read i ton the forum a while ago.

What are your ideas, thoughts?

[DMCMW Dave]

Hi all,

I was wondering, is there a big difference between the Water pumps Press on Pulley and 4 bolt Pulley, other than looks?
?

I just replaced a bolt-on pump because the pulley didn't line up with the crankshaft pulley. Check when you install it. This one had a steel Volvo pulley, hopefully the one you have has the correct offset.


The press-on ones can come off if re-used too many times. We (DMCH etc) are now supplying new steel pulleys on pumps.

[1batt4u]

I just replaced a bolt-on pump because the pulley didn't line up with the crankshaft pulley. Check when you install it. This one had a steel Volvo pulley, hopefully the one you have has the correct offset.


The press-on ones can come off if re-used too many times. We (DMCH etc) are now supplying new steel pulleys on pumps.

Thank you for the heads up. :-)

[kings1527]

I have the bolt-on from Hervey, too, and even though I only have about 350 miles on it since installation, I haven't had any issues. Cooling or otherwise. But given Dave's experience with it, I'll definitely keep an eye out. I'm not really interested in doing another WP change out anytime soon but it'd definitely be easier for me the next time around.

[Chris 16409]

Here's another option from the folks over at the EuroTec forum:

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=2870

Maybe Hervey's pulleys changed slightly between batches. I saw recently on his site that he's out of bolt on pulleys. I just like bolt on pullyes because you can easily reuse them when you have to get a new pump. Ryan King can attest to a press on pulley backing off. I would not want to take that chance. Since you've got the pulley already, try it!

[Ryan King]

Here's another option from the folks over at the EuroTec forum:

http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=2870

Maybe Hervey's pulleys changed slightly between batches. I saw recently on his site that he's out of bolt on pulleys. I just like bolt on pullyes because you can easily reuse them when you have to get a new pump. Ryan King can attest to a press on pulley backing off. I would not want to take that chance. Since you've got the pulley already, try it!

Yeah. The pulley backed off for me. Stick with the bolt on. It's the way to go

[bandit]

Yeh, they are my pulleys. I did one just for my own car initially, because I could not get hold of a water pump quickley enough at the time with the pulley on it.
Over here we can get the volvo style pumps, with bolt on fitment, pretty much everywhere, but as I think has been mentioned, the pulleys don't line up on the D', so I did some that do.

[DMCMW Dave]

Yeh, they are my pulleys. I did one just for my own car initially, because I could not get hold of a water pump quickley enough at the time with the pulley on it.
Over here we can get the volvo style pumps, with bolt on fitment, pretty much everywhere, but as I think has been mentioned, the pulleys don't line up on the D', so I did some that do.

Yeah - the one I had here that would not line up still had a steel (Volvo?) pulley on it.

[1batt4u]

Yeah - the one I had here that would not line up still had a steel (Volvo?) pulley on it.

So some don't line up properly due to the pulleys used, nothing to do with the water pump set up? So I know what to look out for when I install my unit.

[bandit]

From the way I understand it, only 'proper' D' pumps fit, as a straight item. All Volvo, Renault etc which have bolt on pulleys fit, but the pulley they come with has the wrong offset, hence the pulleys I did. So you can just get the much cheaper, more available, fit anything pump & bolt my pulley to it, with the correct offset.
Hope that makes some sense.
Julian

[DMCMW Dave]

So some don't line up properly due to the pulleys used, nothing to do with the water pump set up? So I know what to look out for when I install my unit.

After you bolt it up, make sure the crank pulley lines up with the pump pulley. If you are getting it from a DMC guy rather than a Volvo guy I'd hope it would be fine.

The problem arises when someone gets a Volvo pulley from a junkyard and buys a Volvo pump from a Volvo vendor, and stuff doesn't quite fit.

[kings1527]

So what exactly are we looking out for with an offset setup? I'm guessing cooling will be fine but belts will abnormally wear and break long before they should?

[DMCMW Dave]

So what exactly are we looking out for with an offset setup? I'm guessing cooling will be fine but belts will abnormally wear and break long before they should?

It will chew up the alternator belt. Which is also the water pump belt. This is a heaping bowlful of Not Good.

[Farrar]

I just like bolt on pullyes because you can easily reuse them when you have to get a new pump.

This is why I got Hervey's water pump. I plan on re-using the pulley on my next water pump.

[r00b]

The Volvo pulley needs a 1/4 inch thick spacer to make it line up, I have one in My car.

[BABIS]

the reference for the 4 bolt water pump is the wp for the 760-780 Volvos with the 2.8 v6 engine?

[Chris 16409]

the reference for the 4 bolt water pump is the wp for the 760-780 Volvos with the 2.8 v6 engine?

No, you want to go with a 1980 Volvo 264 water pump.

[DMC5180]

I've also seen a car in the Twin Cities area that had a (VOLVO) Double - VV 4 bolt pulley on it. The Outer edge of the Unused V was rubbing on the Back side of the A/C belt. Made a nice groove in the back of the belt about 1/16 deep. I pointed it out to the NEW owner that it needed to be corrected with the proper 4 bolt pulley for the application.

[DMCMW Dave]

I've also seen a car in the Twin Cities area that had a (VOLVO) Double - VV 4 bolt pulley on it. The Outer edge of the Unused V was rubbing on the Back side of the A/C belt. Made a nice groove in the back of the belt about 1/16 deep. I pointed it out to the NEW owner that it needed to be corrected with the proper 4 bolt pulley for the application.

That is what I had seen (in addition to the misalignment), and am having a hard time visualizing how the 1/4" spacer mentioned above would make it better. Are there two different Volvo pulleys?

[r00b]

I had to unbolt the top bolt from the top AC idler pulley and move it down then tighten the belt with just the lower pulley. at highway speeds the belt would bounce enough to touch the groove so I moved the top pulley till it contacts the belt, to stop the bounce, but not enough to touch the water pump pulley.

[r00b]

Correction on the spacer, should have typed 1/8 inch.
17102
Engine running before I had moved the upper pulley to keep the belt from bouncing.

[DMC5180]

That is what I had seen (in addition to the misalignment), and am having a hard time visualizing how the 1/4" spacer mentioned above would make it better. Are there two different Volvo pulleys?

I recall Bill Robertson is running a single-V 4-bolt ( Volvo ) pulley he'd picked up at a Junk yard. (Imagine that :biggrin:) He posted a picture of it on the old .COM I don't recall if, he said, it needed to be shimmed or not.

[1batt4u]

So I bolted on my new water pump unit just to check if the 4 bolt pulley lines up correct, and it does!! Good thing no worries for that! :-)

[kings1527]

I'm not so sure that my Hervey bolt-on is good to go. I noticed some belt dust on my exhaust bracket next to the alternator and lo-and-behold, my alternator belt is getting real chewed up. Not cool. AND I'm getting a tiny leak on the backside of the pump down into the valley. Very small, but still. I used plenty of RTV to seal the pump back so I'm sure it's not coming from there.

I was so young. So inexperienced when buying from a third party vendor...

:thumbdown:

[DMCMW Dave]

AND I'm getting a tiny leak on the backside of the pump down into the valley. Very small, but still. I used plenty of RTV to seal the pump back so I'm sure it's not coming from :

What did the gasket look like, and did you reuse the original pump back bolts (Allen head)?

[kings1527]

What did the gasket look like, and did you reuse the original pump back bolts (Allen head)?

I did use the Allen head bolts, with the exception of one because something happened before I got the car. It came with one hex bolt and those Allens are impossible to find.

I used a standard gasket (didn't use the Hervey gasket) along with some RTV. I took some pics along the way to help me remember. I'm just not seeing what I could've done that would cause it to leak out the back. Any ideas?

I'm going to end up pulling it out, probably Monday, and take it down to Danny and have him look at it. Even though Hervey has a lifetime warranty on it, I'm interested in having a reliable part in there. Cameron mentioned that if the water pump itself is good but it's just the pulley, then they can press a new pulley on that will work. Obviously that becomes moot if the water pump itself is leaking.

Does anyone know if Hervey sources his pumps from the same place as DMC? Not looking to disclose any trade secrets but I'm just trying to figure out what type of quality pump is in my car right now. If it's the same pump from Hervey/DMC, then I'll try to get a new pump under warranty from Hervey and have DMC put a proper pulley on it. If they're apples and oranges, I'll only go with the DMC unit and forget about any kind of potential warranty issue since I might run into the same problem with quality.

2135421353

[Delorean Industries]

I did use the Allen head bolts, with the exception of one because something happened before I got the car. It came with one hex bolt and those Allens are impossible to find.

I used a standard gasket (didn't use the Hervey gasket) along with some RTV. I took some pics along the way to help me remember. I'm just not seeing what I could've done that would cause it to leak out the back. Any ideas?

I'm going to end up pulling it out, probably Monday, and take it down to Danny and have him look at it. Even though Hervey has a lifetime warranty on it, I'm interested in having a reliable part in there. Cameron mentioned that if the water pump itself is good but it's just the pulley, then they can press a new pulley on that will work. Obviously that becomes moot if the water pump itself is leaking.

Does anyone know if Hervey sources his pumps from the same place as DMC? Not looking to disclose any trade secrets but I'm just trying to figure out what type of quality pump is in my car right now. If it's the same pump from Hervey/DMC, then I'll try to get a new pump under warranty from Hervey and have DMC put a proper pulley on it. If they're apples and oranges, I'll only go with the DMC unit and forget about any kind of potential warranty issue since I might run into the same problem with quality.

2135421353

Not the same.

[kings1527]

Not the same.


That's all I need to know. Thanks Josh.

[DMCMW Dave]

I did use the Allen head bolts, with the exception of one because something happened before I got the car. It came with one hex bolt and those Allens are impossible to find.

I used a standard gasket (didn't use the Hervey gasket) along with some RTV. I took some pics along the way to help me remember. I'm just not seeing what I could've done that would cause it to leak out the back. Any ideas?


Wrong kind of RTV. I've also seen leak problems when using regular hex bolts since the head is large and they don't lay flat on the casting when tight.

Use Permatex "The Right Stuff" RTV. Everything else is crap.

[kings1527]

Wrong kind of RTV. I've also seen leak problems when using regular hex bolts since the head is large and they don't lay flat on the casting when tight.

Use Permatex "The Right Stuff" RTV. Everything else is crap.

Thanks Dave. Hopefully it's just a I had a few questions come to mind.

1) Do you know off the top of your head if you have a spare Allen bolt in stock? I can check at DMC CA when I head down there but they're tough to find.

2) I'm still trying to visualize what Ruben had to do in post #20. If I look at my alignment, everything looks to be ok. But it seems like 1/8" is all it needs in order for it to be mis-aligned. What exactly is the problem with the alignment? From what I understand, the pulley doesn't come out far enough?

3) It seems like the alternator belt is hitting something at highway speeds due to the belt bouncing. What is it coming into contact with that's causing it to get chewed up? Someone mentioned it was the AC belt? What exactly is the process of how the alternator belt becomes damaged with a mis-aligned pulley?

4) Dave: do the backs of water pumps ever hold up with just the gasket and without any RTV? I'm guessing you always put some Right Stuff on the back of the pump as a preventative measure?

5) Hopefully my pump issue is isolated to just a bad seal on the backside. When pumps go bad, do they typically leak from the front, back, or both?

Lots of questions. Thanks for helping me get a handle on this.

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks Dave. Hopefully it's just a I had a few questions come to mind.

1) Do you know off the top of your head if you have a spare Allen bolt in stock? I can check at DMC CA when I head down there but they're tough to find.

2) I'm still trying to visualize what Ruben had to do in post #20. If I look at my alignment, everything looks to be ok. But it seems like 1/8" is all it needs in order for it to be mis-aligned. What exactly is the problem with the alignment? From what I understand, the pulley doesn't come out far enough?

3) It seems like the alternator belt is hitting something at highway speeds due to the belt bouncing. What is it coming into contact with that's causing it to get chewed up? Someone mentioned it was the AC belt? What exactly is the process of how the alternator belt becomes damaged with a mis-aligned pulley?

4) Dave: do the backs of water pumps ever hold up with just the gasket and without any RTV? I'm guessing you always put some Right Stuff on the back of the pump as a preventative measure?

5) Hopefully my pump issue is isolated to just a bad seal on the backside. When pumps go bad, do they typically leak from the front, back, or both?

Lots of questions. Thanks for helping me get a handle on this.

1) Not a spare one, but we carry them. Kind of pricy for a bolt.

2) I'm guessing he bolted the pump to the block and visually inspected to see if the pulley lined up with the crank pulley. Sometimes they don't and the lateral movement chews up the belt.

3) See #2. If it is hitting something it's probably not tight enough. Also check the alternator alignment (rare problem).

4) They did at the factory, but my guess is after the back has been on and off a time or two, they are not completely flat any more.

5) Normal "failure" is the front shaft seal. Thermostat housing can leak, back can leak, and I've seen a small batch of new ones where the little brass slug on the back side under the thermostat would leak due to a factory error. That's a fun one to find and fix. Pressure test the system with the intake off.

[kings1527]

Thanks Dave.

I had the manifold off the other day and pressure tested it. After about 10-15 sec of pressurizing the system to 15 psi, I could see a very small drip happening at the back plate of the pump but it was very low; too low to where I couldn't see exactly where it was coming from. But it definitely wasn't any of the hoses. I'll have to get a mirror and try to see exactly where it's coming from but it's definitely very low on the back plate, towards the AC compressor side to where it drips into the left channel of the valley.

I did install my new alternator at the same time as my water pump last summer. I'll have to go over that and make sure nothing's out of alignment with it and that I didn't put a spare washer where it shouldn't be. I'm guessing just matching everything up with a ruler is the best way to tell.

On another note, I read a post regarding the blades on the alternator flexing out at higher RPMs. I have a Dayco 15495 cross-referenced belt from Pep Boys on my car right now and I'm wondering if that might be something causing me issues. There is belt dust on the exhaust bracket next to the alternator and some chunks of my belt taken out on the inside of the belt, in line with the blades of the alternator. With the chunks taken out of the belt on the alternator side and the dust on the bracket, everything matches up right in that area if it is in fact the alternator blades coming out and hitting the belt.

What's the typical fix for a mis-aligned alternator? I'll definitely go with a vendor alternator belt when I replace it this week. Last question, I promise!

Thanks again!

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks Dave.
---- With the chunks taken out of the belt on the alternator side and the dust on the bracket, everything matches up right in that area if it is in fact the alternator blades coming out and hitting the belt.

What's the typical fix for a mis-aligned alternator? I'll definitely go with a vendor alternator belt when I replace it this week. Last question, I promise!

Thanks again!

I've never heard of the blades flexing at high RPM, at least not on an engine with this RPM limit. I have seen bent blades, you just bend them back. If you go too far the other way they will drag on the alternator body.

Assuming it's the right alternator, it should be directly against the cast iron mount on both sides, with no washers in between.

[DMC5180]

I just found this on EBay for (M7 x 1.0 socket head bolt) http://www.ebay.com/itm/121145189734?hlp=false&var=

They have various lengths (straight or taper head) price is reasonable considering you can't go to your location hardware store fore them.

There seems to be some application in the (Bicycling world) that uses these ODD size bolts. Being weight critical (shaving grams / ounces) they have made them in Titanium

[BABIS]

Does anyone know if Hervey sources his pumps from the same place as DMC? Not looking to disclose any trade secrets but I'm just trying to figure out what type of quality pump is in my car right now. If it's the same pump from Hervey/DMC, then I'll try to get a new pump under warranty from Hervey and have DMC put a proper pulley on it. If they're apples and oranges, I'll only go with the DMC unit and forget about any kind of potential warranty issue since I might run into the same problem with quality.



I currently have Hervey 4 bolt pulley waiting to be installed, I think I will buy a Gates 43306 water pump (volvo 264 reference) it seems to me that Gates is a quality manufacturer, isn't it?

[kings1527]

I just found this on EBay for (M7 x 1.0 socket head bolt) http://www.ebay.com/itm/121145189734?hlp=false&var=

They have various lengths (straight or taper head) price is reasonable considering you can't go to your location hardware store fore them.

There seems to be some application in the (Bicycling world) that uses these ODD size bolts. Being weight critical (shaving grams / ounces) they have made them in Titanium

Thanks for that, Dennis. Those look perfect and I think the correct length is 30mm. I'll grab one.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I just found this on EBay for (M7 x 1.0 socket head bolt) http://www.ebay.com/itm/121145189734?hlp=false&var=

They have various lengths (straight or taper head) price is reasonable considering you can't go to your location hardware store fore them.

There seems to be some application in the (Bicycling world) that uses these ODD size bolts. Being weight critical (shaving grams / ounces) they have made them in Titanium

Got me thinking. Wonder if Titanium would be good for TABs.

[Tillsy]

Got me thinking. Wonder if Titanium would be good for TABs.

Isn't titanium what Toby's used to be made of? Or was it unobtanium?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Isn't titanium what Toby's used to be made of? Or was it unobtanium?

Toby TABs were made from Inconel.

[Delorean Industries]

My argument against exceeding 12.9 on the tabs is the fusable link approach. "Something has got to give" in the suspension. If you upgrade the part that is designed to have the most give the next component in line that is weakest is now the victim. IF the bolt can not break then the mounting point on the frame is the next stressed component. The welds are crap to being with on this section of the frame with next to no penetration in many cases. (welds tested for us on many chassis during the developing phase of our frames to determine how rigid the stock units really are)

Just my two cents.

[DrJeff]

Are there any known instances of the mounting location failing before the TAB went? Since the TAB failing is more common and severe (or just as severe) it makes every sense to address it first. Obviously all mechanical systems have failure points, and thus the logical action is to remove those failure points that are within the operational range of the car. A strong TAB may put more stress on the mounting points, but if the overall risk of failure has been moved out of the normal operational range then you've done good. In fact it could be argued that it was never intended to have the TABs failing in the manner they do, and that stronger TABs fulfill the designers intention.

The only argument for less strong TABs is that cheaper bolts still may achieve the objective of sufficiently reducing the likelihood of failure without the extra cost.

Now if you've got a weak mounting point due to rust, bad weld, or other cause then that is a different problem.

[mluder]

I'm not so sure that my Hervey bolt-on is good to go. I noticed some belt dust on my exhaust bracket next to the alternator and lo-and-behold, my alternator belt is getting real chewed up. Not cool. AND I'm getting a tiny leak on the backside of the pump down into the valley. Very small, but still. I used plenty of RTV to seal the pump back so I'm sure it's not coming from there.

I was so young. So inexperienced when buying from a third party vendor...

:thumbdown:

Looks like my Hervey pump is starting to leak out the backside as well. Only a year old.

Cheers
Steven

[kings1527]

Same place as mine? Really low on the back cover, towards the left channel of the valley? Other than a poor seal on the back cover, I'm trying to figure out where else it could be leaking from back there. I'll get it out of the car in the next couple days and have a look and report back. If it turns out to be the pump and not the seal, there's no way I'm putting another Hervey pump in there. But for now I'm anticipating a bad seal.

[mluder]

Same place as mine? Really low on the back cover, towards the left channel of the valley? Other than a poor seal on the back cover, I'm trying to figure out where else it could be leaking from back there. I'll get it out of the car in the next couple days and have a look and report back. If it turns out to be the pump and not the seal, there's no way I'm putting another Hervey pump in there. But for now I'm anticipating a bad seal.

Appears to be Driver's side though I can't be certain. I first noticed a little drip on the floor and closer inspection showed a little coolant pooling in the area around the spark plug boot in the cylinder closest to the rear of the car. I put a camera scope down in there and saw coolent in the wells in the valley. I can't be certain where its coming from. It's a slow leak - I am not regularly adding coolant - so I'll probably ride out the next month before pulling the manifold and pressure testing the system.

I'm interrested to see what you find.

Cheers
Steven

[dmc6960]

My argument against exceeding 12.9 on the tabs is the fusable link approach. "Something has got to give" in the suspension. If you upgrade the part that is designed to have the most give the next component in line that is weakest is now the victim. IF the bolt can not break then the mounting point on the frame is the next stressed component. The welds are crap to being with on this section of the frame with next to no penetration in many cases. (welds tested for us on many chassis during the developing phase of our frames to determine how rigid the stock units really are)

Even though its pretty off-topic to be talking about TABs on a water pump thread... The "Toby Tabs" are not immune to bending and can still do so under extreme conditions. This was before you got involved with DeLoreans Josh, but I've bent a Toby TAB on my car before. So it certainly can be done. My frame is fine and has no damage. No stress cracks in the epoxy in that area either. After a metallurgical analysis of the bent bolt, it was still very strong and a long ways from actually breaking. I'd take a bent but unbreakable bolt in that position any day. The most likely reason it bent in the first place was a faulty washer which collapsed and loosened the joint.

[David T]

Even though its pretty off-topic to be talking about TABs on a water pump thread... The "Toby Tabs" are not immune to bending and can still do so under extreme conditions. This was before you got involved with DeLoreans Josh, but I've bent a Toby TAB on my car before. So it certainly can be done. My frame is fine and has no damage. No stress cracks in the epoxy in that area either. After a metallurgical analysis of the bent bolt, it was still very strong and a long ways from actually breaking. I'd take a bent but unbreakable bolt in that position any day. The most likely reason it bent in the first place was a faulty washer which collapsed and loosened the joint.


There are many properties of metal you can "adjust". You can have the bolt strong but brittle, you can also make it ductile so it will bend before it breaks. You can surface harden it so internally it is soft and hard on the outside so it can crack. Ideally you want it hard enough so it can't break catastrophically without warning but soft enough so it will bend and let you know you exceeded it's limits. A fine line. You should also do regular inspections so you know if it IS bent or stretched BEFORE it breaks!
David Teitelbaum

[DMCMW Dave]

I've seen a few TABs that broke in service, and there is always sign that rust was involved. The outer plating of the bolt get compromised (scratched), allowing the base metal of the bolt to rust, causing a weakness in the bolt that then fractures. Bending isn't the big problem - although it certainly doesn't help.

The Toby TAB is made of Inconel, which is essentially rustproof. That's the real value in those, not the strength.

[kings1527]

OK, so I took off the manifold and water pump this morning and found this:

-I pressure tested the system before taking the pump out and the drip occurred again, same spot. I reached around the hoses and still didn't feel anything.

-I took out the pump and looked at it. In one of the pics, you can see a trail of hot coolant from a hose connection down to the bottom of the back plate. That's got to be where it was originating from. It looks like it might be a clamp. I swear I reached under there and didn't feel anything. Regardless, my pump still had to come out since I'm putting a DMC unit in there. I don't want to deal with any mis-alignment issues stemming from his water pumps and I'd rather have a solid unit in there.

-looking at everything before I took the pump out, there didn't appear to be any mis-alignment issues. I tried checking it out with a ruler but I don't know if I knew what I was doing with that. It could be in-line or off depending how I lined it up. Can you see a mis-alignment issue with the naked eye?

-in another picture, you can see a black trail on the inside of my pulley. I'm guessing it's not normal to have one side wear and have nothing on the other. Is that typical of a bad alignment? It seems like that would mean the pulley is out too far.

-I didn't have time to take a look at the blades on the alternator. That could still be the source of my belt chewing issues.

On a side note, and what I should've done in the first place (learning here), I'm going to ceramic coat my muffler and zinc plate my crankshaft pulley and nut along with several other parts that should've been plated. The paint hasn't been holding up well at all. I'm also going to powder coat my manifold.

On a side side note, this whole operation is going A LOT faster than it did last summer, which is nice!

214292143021431

[1batt4u]

Can you wrap the belt around the pulley, with the pulley placed flat and level on a surface, and measure distance from surface to top end of belt? I want to see the distance. I got 14mm on my Herey pulley to top end of belt.

[kings1527]

Can you wrap the belt around the pulley, with the pulley placed flat and level on a surface, and measure distance from surface to top end of belt? I want to see the distance. I got 14mm on my Herey pulley to top end of belt.

I'll give it a shot tomorrow, Billy. I think I understand the measurement you're talking about.

How long ago did you buy your water pump from Hervey? Have you had any issues with grinding the alternator belt? Any rubber dust anywhere? What alternator belt are you using?

I'm wondering if we're most likely from the same WP batch.

[jawn101]

For what it's worth, I have Hervey's water pump with the press-on pulley. It's working well and isn't wearing belts prematurely, though Clint did say he didn't trust the pressed-on pulley and insisted on tack-welding it to the shaft before we installed it.

[kings1527]

Well, as embarrassing as it is, I made some progress today:

-I went to DMC CA today and talked with Cameron and Danny and I can't say enough about their customer service and help. Great guys. They looked at my crankshaft pulley and my water pump and the consensus was (most likely) the cause of my belt shredding was my painted crankshaft pulley starting to become too worn and causing it to cut into the belt. Most likely. The paint was leaving decent sharp areas that were cutting into the belt. My pulley along with several other parts are getting zinc plated right now. As should've been done the first time. I thought I could get away with it but with as much as I drive it, there's no way.

-Another contributing factor was that my crankshaft pulley nut was loose. This might've caused some play/wobble in the pulley as it ran. This was scary to discover. The nut was undone by maybe 1-2 threads. My compressor at home is good, but the capacity isn't high enough to have it stay full enough to send enough torque to my impact and get it as tight as it should be. Maybe the first few 'strikes' will be maximum torque but anything after that quickly goes downhill. I'll need to be careful putting it back on. I'll have to hit it and then refill my compressor back to max and hit it again to make sure it's on there. I'll probably end up taking my car to work when I get it back together and use the compressor there. Massive industrial, Home Improvement TV show 'Binford' size. Enter Tim Allen laugh.

-The water pump was probably ok but I still went with a brand new DMC unit. For the price versus the labor since I have everything apart right now, it was worth it.

-As far as my leak goes, it looks like it was leaking from the very base of the big hose off the back of the water pump. That trail is pretty tell-tale.

I'm having my muffler ceramic coated right now and since I went with a color that's special order (regular, light gray is a special order...imagine that), it's going to be about two weeks. I'll be laid up for awhile waiting on my muffler but all of this is going waaaaaay faster than last summer.

I'll mention the bad I've done! Anything less, would be uncivilized...

[Bitsyncmaster]

I never use an impact wrench to torque nut or bolts. I just fear it using too much torque like they do installing wheels at some tire shops.