Top 5 (or 10) updates/fixes every owner should perform

[silverhair01]

I see a lot of different changes/fixes going on with cars throughout the forum. There are obviously some common areas that should be either updated/fixed. I am not an owner yet, but I like to mentally prepare myself. What are the top 5 updates/fixes that should be done to every D after you buy it? (I realize that depending on the PO, some updates might have been performed, or the person might have found a car that was in storage for decades with no changes) If there is already a list like this on the forum, can someone link to it for me? Thank you!

[Chris4099]

Assuming there are no other outstanding safety issues, here's a list of what should done:

Front end sway bar and ball joints, inertia switch, and throttle cable recalls per:
http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/index.html#SC

If manual, replace plastic clutch line with braided SS version.

If original, at least unplug the large connector on the electric lock controller. Go over mechanical door locks to make sure they are aligned and in working order before replacing lock module with new digital unit (assuming you want electric locks again).

Go over all major ground connections to the frame. Be careful of the main battery one as it's easy to snap the bolt due to the second lock nut.

There are probably a lot more, but these are some of the basics that at least will help keep the car from crashing, damaging the transmission/electrical system or locking you inside!

[kings1527]

In no particular order:

1) DMC MW Fan Sequencer (FanZilla/Joe Cool)
2) DMCH Digital Door Lock Module
3) DPNW Door Lock Actuators
4) DMCH Fuel Pump/Sender combo unit
5) Dave McKeen Solid State RPM Relay
6) Stainless steel braided clutch line (if 5-speed)
7) Stainless coolant expansion bottle

Honorable mentions and definitely not as critical:
-Updated window regulators and switches
-John Hervey Double Ground Battery Cable
-John Hervey Clutch Bleeder
-DMCH 140A alternator
-DPNW Cooling Fans

[jawn101]

To go a little more general and vendor neutral (though Alex your list is great too!) here's my contribution. Note that some are not specific jobs, but rather collections of jobs:

1. Grounds, grounds, grounds. Clean, reinforce, replace, repair, whatever the point at hand may need. Do it and do it right.
2. Updated coolant header bottle (no plastic!), radiator (again, no plastic!), water pump, coolant hoses, fans and fan relay. The cooling system needs to be SOLID.
3. Fix your A/C. You may think you can live without it. You will be VERY surprised.
4. Stainless clutch line (have I mentioned NO PLASTIC?!) and renew the master/slave if an M/T
5. Clean the valley and renew the distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, etc.
6. Upgraded fuel lines. Personally I prefer the stainless ones but 30 year old rubber + fuel will eventually = Bad Day. Also overhaul fuel pump. Pick your poison, the complicated stock style or the new combo kit. The combo is vastly superior but it's your car. Either way you need to be able to rely on this thing
7. Upgrade the alternator. Pick a vendor and just do it.
8. Trailing arm bolts
9. Door struts and torsion bar check/adjustment. Get good, new struts and verify your doors don't bounce and don't sag
10. Tires. There are entirely too many D's on janky old tires. Don't take the risk

[Jonathan]

There were a couple safety recalls back in the day. Front end recall (including strengthening brackets as well as suspension nuts in a couple different places), throttle deice recall (includes the splash shield as well as some miscellaneous fittings that go on the cable and spool).

A couple of the common upgrades many owners do proactively for fear of it failing (statistics on how many did fail this way or that unknown to me) are: plastic coolant reservoir swapped out for a stainless one, fuses and relays get replaced/upgraded (which would or could include the fan fail spot, RPM relay, or potentially your door lock module... that could be just unplugging it), Trailing Arm Bolts (TABs) inspected and or replaced (Northwest Toby made special replacements which are highly sought after).

Some upgrades or fixes can be to lighten the load on your electrical system or otherwise. Some of these could be: new and improved radiator fans, headlight switch replacement (this could be in the already failed category), ensuring the cooling fan switch (otterstat) "tee" is pointing down, a coolant auto-bleed set-up, taillight board replacement or "tiny nuts and bolts" fix.

Other "nice to have" upgrades could be a stereo and speaker replacement, key fob/remote door launchers, new/different rims if that is your thing.

Some cosmetic ones may be: wide stripes, luggage rack, floor mats (not sure where they fit in as they were an "upgrade" not from the factory), exhaust tips, SS door sills, SS bumper letters, hood emblem(s), headlight lens covers.

Above all, best way to know what your particular car needs in terms of upgrades is to systematically go through every button, knob, switch and feature and find out if it is working as designed. Windows, horns, wipers, lights, mirrors, seats, speedometer too if you're lucky.

I'm sure there are many more, but that's what came to mind. Is that what you were thinking of when you asked?

EDIT: ^what he said :)

[DeLorean03]

In no particular order:

1) DMC MW Fan Sequencer (FanZilla/Joe Cool)
2) DMCH Digital Door Lock Module
3) DPNW Door Lock Actuators
4) DMCH Fuel Pump/Sender combo unit
5) Dave McKeen Solid State RPM Relay
6) Stainless steel braided clutch line (if 5-speed)
7) Stainless coolant expansion bottle

Honorable mentions and definitely not as critical:

-Updated window regulators and switches
-John Hervey Double Ground Battery Cable
-John Hervey Clutch Bleeder
-DMCH 140A alternator
-DPNW Cooling Fans

Sorry Alex, but one of your H.M.'s should be in the list: the cooling fans.

Given that those stock fans can pull up to a whopping 22A of current, they are easily the weakest link in the entire cooling system.

Here, since it's a "top 5 or 10" we'll just throw the fans and alternator in at 8 and 9 respectfully ;). That leaves room for # 10 - more powerful engine ;). Of course, that would negate nearly the rest of the list.

My top 10 is based off what I perceive you would want without taking the car down into a "minor restoration" status. These 10 things you could do one at a time a day without the car being "down" for multiple days or weeks. Good example of something I wouldn't put on my list would be a waterpump - GREAT thing to do - but if it's the first time in 30 years, I'd be a strong gambling man that it won't be getting done in one day flat.

Anyhoo, my top 10:

1. Entire new set of relays, fuses, and circuit breakers when first acquiring the car.
2. New alternator
3. New cooling fans
4. New coolant bottle
5. DMC MW fan sequencer
6. Fuel sender combo (new pump)
7. Stainless steel fuel lines.
8. New coolant hoses from front to back
9. New 3 core bass radiator
10. LEDs throughout the car as quickly as possible. Read Ozzie's thorough blog in regards to electrical benefits: http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2011/07/going-100-leds-on-your-car-is-good-idea.html




Alex and I are definitely on the same page for the most part :thumbup:!

[kings1527]

Nice additions, Jon. And you're right, people can have different experiences with parts from different vendors. I guess we stick with what we know!

You're right Jeremiah, updated fans should definitely be on the 'must' list! Good catch!

[DeLorean03]

You're right Jeremiah, updated fans should definitely be on the 'must' list! Good catch!

Don't get me wrong my man - your list was solid - and like I said, you had slots for a top 10 list open so it all worked out :thumbup2:!

[silverhair01]

Excellent lists/recommendations. Looks to be fun and challenging!

[DMCMW Dave]

I'd go for the basics before the fancy stuff:

YEAR 1
Rebuild the brakes including the master cylinder and the caliper hoses.
Tires less than a decade old. Newer is better.
Rebuild the fuel system (pump, accumulator, filter) unless it actually runs OK, at least replace all the rubber tank parts, filter and accumulator
Rebuild the cooling system including clean out the valley. New radiator highly recommended. Metal coolant tank highly recommended. Water pump optional but recommended while you are in there.
Clutch master/slave/SS line
Auto trans governor, flush everything, seal up all the leaks.
Relay/Fuse Update Kit, clean fuse sockets
Clean all the grounds
Alternator
Metal Door Handles

-------------------------------------------------

YEAR 2
Anything else that is "deferred maintenance"
30K maintenance aka tune-up/valve adjustment
Transmission Leaks
Window Motors
Battery
Door adjustments/alignments etc.
Air Conditioner
All the little broken things that don't work, but don't keep you from driving the car.

-------------------------------------------------
YEAR 3
Lower on the list but good to have
Headliners
Stereo
Power Door locks
Shocks and Springs, sway bar bushings.
All the little appearance things that you see at car shows but nobody else notices

-------------------------------------------------
WHENEVER
At the bottom of the list after you do everything else:
Door launchers
Thumping stereo
Thumping Engine
Lights under the car

etc. . . . . .

[Josh]

This is a very good thread, great for someone considering purchasing a car or one who has just purchased a car to see what they have ahead of them!

Dave knows where it's at, gotta have the thumpin tunes! haha

[silverhair01]

I'd go for the basics before the fancy stuff:

YEAR 1
Rebuild the brakes including the master cylinder and the caliper hoses.
Tires less than a decade old. Newer is better.
Rebuild the fuel system (pump, accumulator, filter) unless it actually runs OK, at least replace all the rubber tank parts, filter and accumulator
Rebuild the cooling system including clean out the valley. New radiator highly recommended. Metal coolant tank highly recommended. Water pump optional but recommended while you are in there.
Clutch master/slave/SS line
Auto trans governor, flush everything, seal up all the leaks.
Relay/Fuse Update Kit, clean fuse sockets
Clean all the grounds
Alternator
Metal Door Handles

-------------------------------------------------

YEAR 2
Anything else that is "deferred maintenance"
30K maintenance aka tune-up/valve adjustment
Transmission Leaks
Window Motors
Battery
Door adjustments/alignments etc.
Air Conditioner
All the little broken things that don't work, but don't keep you from driving the car.

-------------------------------------------------
YEAR 3
Lower on the list but good to have
Headliners
Stereo
Power Door locks
Shocks and Springs, sway bar bushings.
All the little appearance things that you see at car shows but nobody else notices

-------------------------------------------------
WHENEVER
At the bottom of the list after you do everything else:
Door launchers
Thumping stereo
Thumping Engine
Lights under the car

etc. . . . . .

Awesome. I definitely like having a list the basically says "fix this stuff so you won't get stranded" :-)

[kings1527]

Don't get me wrong my man - your list was solid - and like I said, you had slots for a top 10 list open so it all worked out :thumbup2:!

:thumbup2: Absolutely!


I'd go for the basics before the fancy stuff:

YEAR 1
Rebuild the brakes including the master cylinder and the caliper hoses.
Tires less than a decade old. Newer is better.
Rebuild the fuel system (pump, accumulator, filter) unless it actually runs OK, at least replace all the rubber tank parts, filter and accumulator
Rebuild the cooling system including clean out the valley. New radiator highly recommended. Metal coolant tank highly recommended. Water pump optional but recommended while you are in there.
Clutch master/slave/SS line
Auto trans governor, flush everything, seal up all the leaks.
Relay/Fuse Update Kit, clean fuse sockets
Clean all the grounds
Alternator
Metal Door Handles

-------------------------------------------------

YEAR 2
Anything else that is "deferred maintenance"
30K maintenance aka tune-up/valve adjustment
Transmission Leaks
Window Motors
Battery
Door adjustments/alignments etc.
Air Conditioner
All the little broken things that don't work, but don't keep you from driving the car.

-------------------------------------------------
YEAR 3
Lower on the list but good to have
Headliners
Stereo
Power Door locks
Shocks and Springs, sway bar bushings.
All the little appearance things that you see at car shows but nobody else notices

-------------------------------------------------
WHENEVER
At the bottom of the list after you do everything else:
Door launchers
Thumping stereo
Thumping Engine
Lights under the car

etc. . . . . .

Now, that's a thread-ender right there! Nice list, Dave! Very methodical and well though-out.

[jawn101]

Sigh. Dave, you put brakes before the thumpin stereo? What happened, man? You used to be cool :lol:

In all seriousness - OP, there is every reason in the world (since you seem to be relatively new to the boards) to take the stuff Dave S says as canon and run with it!

[JohnZ]

God, now this is a must read thread!

Thanks It's been very interesting and will be VERY useful!

:)

[silverhair01]

Sigh. Dave, you put brakes before the thumpin stereo? What happened, man? You used to be cool :lol:

In all seriousness - OP, there is every reason in the world (since you seem to be relatively new to the boards) to take the stuff Dave S says as canon and run with it!

The list was so excellent, i just copy and pasted it to a file i have set up to easily access when needed.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have to recommend the number one upgrade is replacing the OEM fans with lower current ones. I just saw a photo of my fan fail unit where one of the 20 amp fuses has been overheating (OEM fans). That means that fan is drawing 19 to 20 amps. A fuse will take a long time to blow at the rated current and even 23 amps on a 20 amp fuse will take a few minutes to blow.

Number would be replacing the TABs. Even NOS tab bolts are fine but the better ones should last longer.

[Jonathan]

I'd go for the basics before the fancy stuff:

...

etc. . . . . .

Beauty Dave. Nice list. I'll definitely go back through it and see if I've missed anything on my own car. Thanks for putting that together.

Now, how it is I am rounding out year 6 on my car and only just getting finished the year 3 list... What's that saying? 'Quality takes time' ...ahh, it's all good :)

[DMCMW Dave]

I have to recommend the number one upgrade is replacing the OEM fans with lower current ones. I just saw a photo of my fan fail unit where one of the 20 amp fuses has been overheating (OEM fans). That means that fan is drawing 19 to 20 amps. A fuse will take a long time to blow at the rated current and even 23 amps on a 20 amp fuse will take a few minutes to blow.
.

I'll probably be the odd guy out on this one, and start a religious argument, but I really prefer the OEM style fans. (Not original fans that are failing, but good original fans or replacement Bosch fans). I agree that if you see OEM Fans pulling 20 amps each you probably have an issue. . . .

[Delorean Industries]

Dpi upgrade with stainless shroud. Best way to cut down on the cars electrical load.
http://delorean.gostorego.com/kits/high-flow-fan-stainless-fan-shroud-upgrade.html

[tony32408]

For someone without a lot of experience with cars, how many of these top 10 would possible? Also, could anyone list the essential tools one would need to complete these jobs?

[jawn101]

I'll probably be the odd guy out on this one, and start a religious argument, but I really prefer the OEM style fans. (Not original fans that are failing, but good original fans or replacement Bosch fans). I agree that if you see OEM Fans pulling 20 amps each you probably have an issue. . . .

This is a very interesting statement and I'd love to learn more about why!! But maybe in a different thread so we don't derail here.


For someone without a lot of experience with cars, how many of these top 10 would possible? Also, could anyone list the essential tools one would need to complete these jobs?

Hmm. Not a whole lot, unless you're willing to learn. If you are, the sky's the limit! This is a pretty good car to learn on. I had never even changed my own oil before I got my D, but now I've overhauled every single system (no exceptions!) on the car in my own garage... with the help of some other owners, anyway. As far as tools, you absolutely cannot get by without metric combo wrenches and a metric socket set. But you'll find a use for a new tool every day, and will just amass stuff as you go.

On the subject of tools, I did learn that there is no substitute for a good quality tool. I used to just get cheap stuff before I started working on my D - which in a lot of cases means some significantly harder use than I was used to. There's nothing worse than having a tool fail on you in the middle of a job.... and believe me, it can happen.

[aipri]

A lot has been covered here, but I would also recommend reading the Illustrated Buyer's Guide to Delorean Automobiles by James Espey. I ready it before I began looking and it was very helpful.

[Rich]

A lot has been covered here, but I would also recommend reading the Illustrated Buyer's Guide to Delorean Automobiles by James Espey. I ready it before I began looking and it was very helpful.

+1 on James' book for current and prospective DeLorean owners/buyers.

My Top 5, assuming the car is box-stock without upgrades and isn't broken/rusted/gummed-up after years of dormancy - not in priority order:
1. Starter relay bypass/recall. (OK, well ALL of the safety recalls should have been done).
2. Stainless clutch line (for 5-speeds only, obviously).
3. Trailing arm bolt inspection/replacement.
4. Metal coolant header bottle.
5. Door torsion bar adjustment with known-good lift struts in place (like Jawn101 said) AND door torsion bars isolated from rear door hinge with plastic/rubber to prevent wear/breakage of torsion bar. I see few cars without one or the other torsion bars rubbing against the rear hinge. It's easy, cheap insurance.



Back to Dave's point any newly-acquired older/used car, including a DeLorean, should get a full safety check. Brakes, suspension, steering, lights, horn, tires. If you want to drive in traffic then drive in a car you trust will not hurt you or anybody else.

Of course, 30+ year old cars will need brakes, headliners, ball joints, alignment, A/T governor and whatever else is worn or questionable looked after depending on what you are starting with. It's all there in James' book.

[Dangermouse]

Add an AAA card to your wallet.

[David T]

I would include in Dave S's list to do ALL the recalls and service bulletins. Depending on the year, mileage, and how it was cared for some cars haven't had ANY of them. Also ALL of the fluids and filters should be flushed out and replaced. Everything greased or otherwise lubricated. That way you KNOW what is in there and when it was last changed. Battery if over 5 years old or fails a load test. I agree with starting on the basics. It doesn't matter how pretty the car is if it won't move and/or be reliable enough to get you home.
David Teitelbaum

[ALEXAKOS]

Add an AAA card to your wallet.

aaaand.... Buy your self a car for a daily driver!:offtopic:

[Conundrum]

There were a couple safety recalls back in the day. Front end recall (including strengthening brackets as well as suspension nuts in a couple different places), throttle deice recall (includes the splash shield as well as some miscellaneous fittings that go on the cable and spool).

A couple of the common upgrades many owners do proactively for fear of it failing (statistics on how many did fail this way or that unknown to me) are: plastic coolant reservoir swapped out for a stainless one, fuses and relays get replaced/upgraded (which would or could include the fan fail spot, RPM relay, or potentially your door lock module... that could be just unplugging it), Trailing Arm Bolts (TABs) inspected and or replaced (Northwest Toby made special replacements which are highly sought after).

Some upgrades or fixes can be to lighten the load on your electrical system or otherwise. Some of these could be: new and improved radiator fans, headlight switch replacement (this could be in the already failed category), ensuring the cooling fan switch (otterstat) "tee" is pointing down, a coolant auto-bleed set-up, taillight board replacement or "tiny nuts and bolts" fix.

Other "nice to have" upgrades could be a stereo and speaker replacement, key fob/remote door launchers, new/different rims if that is your thing.

Some cosmetic ones may be: wide stripes, luggage rack, floor mats (not sure where they fit in as they were an "upgrade" not from the factory), exhaust tips, SS door sills, SS bumper letters, hood emblem(s), headlight lens covers.

Above all, best way to know what your particular car needs in terms of upgrades is to systematically go through every button, knob, switch and feature and find out if it is working as designed. Windows, horns, wipers, lights, mirrors, seats, speedometer too if you're lucky.

I'm sure there are many more, but that's what came to mind. Is that what you were thinking of when you asked?

EDIT: ^what he said :)

On the floor mats: I think DMCH should come out with some made to fit, with DMC logo, rubber floor mats. I'd love that and would definitely buy in a heartbeat. James, are you reading this? Who else would prefer DMC rubber mats?

[jawn101]

On the floor mats: I think DMCH should come out with some made to fit, with DMC logo, rubber floor mats. I'd love that and would definitely buy in a heartbeat. James, are you reading this? Who else would prefer DMC rubber mats?

Yeah, I probably would too. We do a lot of beach/forest/coastal drives and it requires a lot of floor mat cleaning. Rubber would be way easier, I have them in all my DDs. Pipe dream for the D I'm sure, but if the opportunity presented itself I'd buy them.

[Mark D]

Maybe get in touch with these guys? They specialize in aftermarket custom fit floor mats.

http://www.weathertech.com/

[jawn101]

Maybe get in touch with these guys? They specialize in aftermarket custom fit floor mats.

http://www.weathertech.com/

I actually did last year. They don't have patterns for the D. :(

[Cory W]

I actually did last year. They don't have patterns for the D. :(

Who could provide their car for measuring that lives near Bolingbrook, IL?

http://www.weathertech.com/service/contact/

[Mark D]

Who could provide their car for measuring that lives near Bolingbrook, IL?

http://www.weathertech.com/service/contact/


Thats about an hour from DMCMW.

Maybe someone at weathertech would be willing to make the drive up.

[aotmfilms]

I'd go for the basics before the fancy stuff:

YEAR 1
Rebuild the brakes including the master cylinder and the caliper hoses.
Tires less than a decade old. Newer is better.
Rebuild the fuel system (pump, accumulator, filter) unless it actually runs OK, at least replace all the rubber tank parts, filter and accumulator
Rebuild the cooling system including clean out the valley. New radiator highly recommended. Metal coolant tank highly recommended. Water pump optional but recommended while you are in there.
Clutch master/slave/SS line
Auto trans governor, flush everything, seal up all the leaks.
Relay/Fuse Update Kit, clean fuse sockets
Clean all the grounds
Alternator
Metal Door Handles

-------------------------------------------------

YEAR 2
Anything else that is "deferred maintenance"
30K maintenance aka tune-up/valve adjustment
Transmission Leaks
Window Motors
Battery
Door adjustments/alignments etc.
Air Conditioner
All the little broken things that don't work, but don't keep you from driving the car.

-------------------------------------------------
YEAR 3
Lower on the list but good to have
Headliners
Stereo
Power Door locks
Shocks and Springs, sway bar bushings.
All the little appearance things that you see at car shows but nobody else notices

-------------------------------------------------
WHENEVER
At the bottom of the list after you do everything else:
Door launchers
Thumping stereo
Thumping Engine
Lights under the car

etc. . . . . .

YEAR 1
Rebuild the brakes including the master cylinder and the caliper hoses. (those seem to be good, car is at 21,000+ miles, so what is the mileage/time on these cars to replace the brakes? I will be driving 20 miles to and from work on Friday and probably run to Dairy Queen or something 20 miles on Saturday so around 160 miles per month April thru October, change once a year??)

Tires less than a decade old. Newer is better. (Owner has good tires from what I see)

Rebuild the fuel system (pump, accumulator, filter) unless it actually runs OK, at least replace all the rubber tank parts, filter and accumulator (car looks good in this area)

Rebuild the cooling system including clean out the valley. New radiator highly recommended. Metal coolant tank highly recommended. Water pump optional but recommended while you are in there. (he actually has it looking showroom in this area)

Clutch master/slave/SS line (If already done, can I do in 2016?)

Auto trans governor, flush everything, seal up all the leaks.

Relay/Fuse Update Kit, clean fuse sockets

Clean all the grounds (ok, will look them over)

Alternator (he has a new one on there, is there a change out? every 20k miles on these cars?)

Metal Door Handles (he has plastic, how hard would they be to change? Are they a PITA?, do I search "Metal Door Handle install" on the forum?)

Also on the door locks, I think I saw the old locks on there, my question is this, do I drive with the doors unlocked so as to not trap myself in the car? What do y'all do when you run with the old locks until I can afford to install the new/improved locking system....

Thank you for helping out the newbie.
:rollin:

--Doug

[Rich]

Inserted answers where you had questions - am sure others will chime in with thoughts:



Rebuild the brakes including the master cylinder and the caliper hoses. (those seem to be good, car is at 21,000+ miles, so what is the mileage/time on these cars to replace the brakes? I will be driving 20 miles to and from work on Friday and probably run to Dairy Queen or something 20 miles on Saturday so around 160 miles per month April thru October, change once a year??) A well-maintained brake system needs only flushing every 2yrs and pad replacement when they wear out. Rotors will eventually wear down, same as any other car. Unless the owner knows it was recently done get the brake fluid flushed, DOT4, and have the pads and rotors looked at. No pulling to either side and no pulsing. And if the brake hoses to each wheel might be original then replace them. Any brake shop can deal with all of this.

Rebuild the fuel system (pump, accumulator, filter) unless it actually runs OK, at least replace all the rubber tank parts, filter and accumulator (car looks good in this area) Be sure the car starts fine cold and also 10 min after hot soak. If it starts, idles and runs OK then nothing immediate is needed. A smog check can be useful (to be sure the cat is still OK, among other things)

Rebuild the cooling system including clean out the valley. New radiator highly recommended. Metal coolant tank highly recommended. Water pump optional but recommended while you are in there. (he actually has it looking showroom in this area) Good. Just flush and refill the coolant every 2-3 yrs. If not recent then do it now.

Clutch master/slave/SS line (If already done, can I do in 2016?) You can defer the SS brake line as long as you don't plan to run the car very long in slow traffic on hot days. Clutch master and slave can be left as-is if not leaking. Flush the clutch fluid now and every 2-3 years.

Alternator (he has a new one on there, is there a change out? every 20k miles on these cars?) No, there is no regular alt. replacement needed.

Metal Door Handles (he has plastic, how hard would they be to change? Are they a PITA?, do I search "Metal Door Handle install" on the forum?) The original plastic ones can be OK for a long time, lots of originals still working OK. They won't both go at once, so you won't be kept out of the car if you put this off and one lets go. Figure an hour to change a handle, maybe twice that including learning how to get inside the door to do the job.

Also on the door locks, I think I saw the old locks on there, my question is this, do I drive with the doors unlocked so as to not trap myself in the car? What do y'all do when you run with the old locks until I can afford to install the new/improved locking system For now don't worry about the old solenoids/module. They are not the things that lock you in/out. Misadjusted linkage does that. If the doors work fine latching/locking/unlocking MANUALLY then don't put this at the top of your list. Yes, you can drive with the doors unlocked if you like, same as any other car.

[Andrew]

Thus far I've put approximately 2,000 miles on 5052 (including a 250 mile trip back from DMC MW 2 days ago on a hot and humid June afternoon) and I have not had any difficulty with the stock plastic clutch line. However, I have been running an adjustable clutch clevis from PJ Grady since mile 1.

[Elvis]

Also on the door locks, I think I saw the old locks on there, my question is this, do I drive with the doors unlocked so as to not trap myself in the car? What do y'all do when you run with the old locks until I can afford to install the new/improved locking system For now don't worry about the old solenoids/module. They are not the things that lock you in/out. Misadjusted linkage does that. If the doors work fine latching/locking/unlocking MANUALLY then don't put this at the top of your list. Yes, you can drive with the doors unlocked if you like, same as any other car.


-> the orignal door Lock ECU can lock you in !!!!!!!

Install that fuse like mentioned around 200 times now - and you are safe.
Updating it in time saves you replacing / repairing the solenoids.

[DMCMW Dave]

Who could provide their car for measuring that lives near Bolingbrook, IL?

http://www.weathertech.com/service/contact/

They are not interested, the prospective volume is much too low compared to, say, a Honda Odyssey.

edit - argh - a back from the dead thread. Sorry.

[aotmfilms]

Also on the door locks, I think I saw the old locks on there, my question is this, do I drive with the doors unlocked so as to not trap myself in the car? What do y'all do when you run with the old locks until I can afford to install the new/improved locking system For now don't worry about the old solenoids/module. They are not the things that lock you in/out. Misadjusted linkage does that. If the doors work fine latching/locking/unlocking MANUALLY then don't put this at the top of your list. Yes, you can drive with the doors unlocked if you like, same as any other car.


-> the orignal door Lock ECU can lock you in !!!!!!!

Install that fuse like mentioned around 200 times now - and you are safe.
Updating it in time saves you replacing / repairing the solenoids.

Can't I just pull the fuse if I have too? Sorry Man but I am a n00b. I heard of a fuse or some "procedure" that you can do to unlock yourself....I just am curious if you could give me the search terms or whatever so I don't have to cry for help via my iPhone or knock out a window. Do you mean the D is possessed and just randomly locks the door locks????? I have driven them a couple times and the one that I am buying didn't seem to have the problem but the passenger side window did have issues going up and down. I know its a 34 year old car but knowing my luck my butt will be trapped IN the car while in my storage and with even more "luck" my AT&T iPhone will decide to not grab a signal so I can call for help. Just thinking worst case scenario. I guess I could just drive somewhere and get assistance but what if the D don't start after I stop>turn off the engine>and try to open the door....do BOTH locks....LOCK??

I didn't get the chance to try the locks as how the rest of the car was in such good shape I overlooked that little thing....

Any help or direction would be most helpful.... :notworthy:

[aotmfilms]

Inserted answers where you had questions - am sure others will chime in with thoughts:

Thank you for that information! I will print it up and keep it handy!

[aotmfilms]

I've been reading stuff like this thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9661-Can-t-Open-Passenger-Door-AT-ALL/page3

My question is, if you become locked in your car, is there a procedure to get yourself out besides kicking out the window....,(not something I'd want to do/last resort, I'd be logging into the forum or calling a locksmith before I do that) I'm looking at something that I can print up and put in my wallet just in case I forget. I am of a mind that you can pull a fuse and it will release the solnoids allowing the locks to fail open which will allow you to open a door, is this true? Knowing my luck I'd get stuck, I don't mind breaking down, but stuck in a D in the middle of summer I'd feel like a Dog in a car, those small windows don't let that much air in.

(Or am I making a mountain out of a mole hill??)

Thank you!

--Doug:smile:

[Bitsyncmaster]

The locked in problem occurs because the OEM door lock unit relays get stuck holing power onto the solenoids.

The cheap fix is to replace that door lock circuit breaker with a 10 amp fuse. Or disconnect it altogether and not have electric powered locks. The door lock unit should only have the solenoids powered for one second which the 10 amp fuse should handle. If it blows to often, try to find a slow blow fuse.

[aotmfilms]

The locked in problem occurs because the OEM door lock unit relays get stuck holing power onto the solenoids.

The cheap fix is to replace that door lock circuit breaker with a 10 amp fuse. Or disconnect it altogether and not have electric powered locks. The door lock unit should only have the solenoids powered for one second which the 10 amp fuse should handle. If it blows to often, try to find a slow blow fuse.

Thank you for that info. I will check it out as one of the first things when I take delivery of the car. I know that it should be okay but it is a 34 year old car.

---Doug