Post-storage start-up checklist?

[Bill6298]

Hello Everyone,

I've spent several hours reading threads but did not find a complete list of essential things to do before cranking an engine after improper storage. In my case this is nearly 5+ years of storage in a garage.

1. Clearly I need to clean the fuel tank. I found plenty of really great threads and videos on this. I plan to clean first and order parts second. Is it a foregone conclusion that I'll be ordering the new DMCH pump and sender combo unit? (The PO said he replaced the fuel system around year ~2000 but I'm not sure what components were used)

2. Another obvious item: drain and change the motor oil and filter. I'll also change the air filter because it's easy and cheap.

3. The battery is removed and I need to buy a new one.

Are there any other items that should addressed before the first crank? I'm looking to avoid unnecessary damage.

For example, I don't know if using the brakes briefly could damage the entire system without changing brake fluid first. (FWIW, my PO converted the system to Silicon DOT 5 fluid.)

Before storage, there was nothing catastrophically wrong. My braking power was diminished but the PO only changed out what was necessary to convert to silicon around year 2000. I had problems starting the car in the morning only after parking outside overnight. Broken spedo. Really low power when running the air, headlights, new radio. As far as I can tell, none of this should keep me from tackling the big items first and getting the engine started.

Thanks

Bill

[NightFlyer]

If ethanol blended fuel has sat in the system during the car's 5 year slumber, then you'll also want to do the following:

- change the fuel filter;

- change the fuel accumulator.

The pump and sender in the tank may still be alright - hard to say. You'll have a pretty good idea when you pull the pump to clean the tank. Best to test the pump out of the tank with a fresh fuel supply.

If you do end up going with the pump/sender combo unit from DMCH, I personally highly recommend installing an external in-line check valve due to the known problems with the combo unit's internal check valve, regardless of whatever DMCH may tell you. You can see my thread on this subject here:

http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.php?276-K-Jet-DMCH-Fuel-Pump-Sender-Combo-External-Inline-Check-Valves

It also wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and put a teaspoon of oil (whatever you're going to put in the crankcase or a top end oil such Marvel Mystery Oil) down the plug holes and into the cylinder to help free the rings and prevent scoring of the liner walls on initial start-up. I like to let the oil penetrate at least a couple days before cranking, if possible, giving a slight blast of compressed air down the plug holes a couple times daily to blow any oil settling on the piston heads off and onto the liner walls. Of course, you want to be sure to keep the holes plugged/covered while the plugs are out so crap doesn't get into the cylinder. While you may feel tempted to just go ahead and change out the plugs prior to starting, I wouldn't. Get it started and let any access oil from the cylinder burn off first with the old plugs, as too much oil down the holes or some residual bad gas/crap in the fuel system could foul out the plugs. Once you have everything sorted and the engine is ready to run regularly, then go ahead and change out the plugs. I personally would only use the Bosch HR6DS (silver) or HR6DC (copper) single electrode plugs if your car is running a stock/OEM ignition system.

Other than that, it will just be a matter of getting it running and then assessing any fuel delivery (K-Jet) issues that may arise (hopefully they don't) - ie: fuel injectors, fuel distributor, PPR/WUR, cold start valve, etc. The condition of the fuel that comes out of the fuel filter when changing it will give you a good idea as to whether or not you'll have many engine end fuel delivery issues.

You'll also want to flush the cooling system and change the coolant, but that can be done after you get the engine running.

The brake system is also something that you can easily assess once you get the engine running.

Best of luck!

[rdarlington]

Hello Everyone,

I've spent several hours reading threads but did not find a complete list of essential things to do before cranking an engine after improper storage. In my case this is nearly 5+ years of storage in a garage.

Bill

Fuel tank, for sure. Clean the tank, run cleaner through the fuel pump. I don't think there's any reason to replace the pump unless you see problems. Other folks should chime in on this though as I've had my ride for less than 2 months. I'm still green. I did replace mine with the DMCH all in one unit but that was because I suspected problems that I didn't really have. My fuel was low and the baffle assembly was completely missing. What felt like fuel pump problems was really a fuel pickup tube bouncing around in a low tank and sucking air.

Check the clutch hydraulics. Look for leaks around the pedal box under the dash where the master pokes through. I had my D for 24 hours before I got stranded away from home where I couldn't get the car in gear. That ordeal forced me to learn how to bleed a clutch in the dark around midnight, but she limped home. It won't hurt the engine, but it's just an annoyance. If you buy new clutch hydraulics parts, buy the kit from Hervy (specialtauto.com). It's both the master and slave cylinders, add the clutch line and add the bleeder kit. It will most likely show up with the bleeder attached to the slave. A nice touch and I was very appreciative for it.

Old brake fluid won't hurt anything, just flush it out with new stuff when you get a chance, assuming your calipers aren't leaking. If they are, fix that first.

Check the coolant level, oil level, transmission fluid level, etc.

I can't think of anything else that is absolutely needed, but I'm sure other folks will think of more stuff to check.

[Rich]

This advice is for the few miles AFTER you get it moving again, so skip it if you are polling only for what to do before that.

Safety advice:
Expect one or more of the brake calipers to stick/seize, either as it sits now or sometime during the early miles you will be putting on the car. Typically that will mean they won't release properly and you'll be wearing out the affected pads faster than need be, your fuel economy might be poor and, worst of all, the brakes will not perform up to par. The safety aspects should not be overlooked. Getting the car moving seems like the goal now but at the same time you need to be very sure it will be capable of stopping the way it was designed to stop.

So take it easy to begin with by choosing your speeds and routes carefully on those first drives, then take the time to check the brakes out. At some point take a minute at the end of the drive to check for a wheel that feels warmer to the touch than other wheels do. Check for brake pull to one side or the other. With the wheels up and not in gear, check to see how freely they each spin. Stuck calipers can be rebuilt or replaced. In pairs.

[WelmoedJ]

+ all

After all this and refilling the tank, disconnect the feed line at the fuel distributor.
Power the pump to blow the last old fuel and residue out.
This helps keeping the FD as clean as possible.

Clean the WUR in and out connections too.
After reconnecting the feed line you may wish to do the same with the lines to the WUR and injectors.
Hopefully this will prevent the injectors to get clogged by residue in the fuel lines.

[DMCMW Dave]

Before you try to start it, remove the air box and GENTLY press the metering flap. If it offers any resistance at all, STOP. You will need to take off the fuel distributor and unstick the plunger, and this is a ton easier if you don't press the flap down all the way lodging the plunger up out of reach. If it is stuck like this, it's a good indication that you may have a couple of sticky injectors, plugged WUR, plugged FV.

I find it best to pull all the injectors and flush the fuel injection system before you try to turn the key the first time. This insures that everything works, gets the air out of the system , and insures that that you are trying to start the car on good gas right from the beginning.

[David T]

Before you try to start it, remove the air box and GENTLY press the metering flap. If it offers any resistance at all, STOP. You will need to take off the fuel distributor and unstick the plunger, and this is a ton easier if you don't press the flap down all the way lodging the plunger up out of reach. If it is stuck like this, it's a good indication that you may have a couple of sticky injectors, plugged WUR, plugged FV.

I find it best to pull all the injectors and flush the fuel injection system before you try to turn the key the first time. This insures that everything works, gets the air out of the system , and insures that that you are trying to start the car on good gas right from the beginning.

These are all good tips. Don't forget to also replace the battery if over 5 years old, tires over 7, ALL fluids, struts, wiper blades and don't forget the paperwork which means insurance and plates. Once you get the car going you will find all kinds of things to do! 5 years is not all that long. Try waking up a car that was sleeping over 10 years!

[Bill6298]

These are all really great tips. I think I have a good idea of things to do before the first crank vs. first drive. The biggest lesson is that I need to read more about the K-Jetronic system before proceeding.

For powering up the fuel pump manually (after the tank is clean with new fuel), I believe I need to jump the relay. I'll search on this one. It's too bad I can't use the fuel pump to drain the tank but I'd hate to run that bad fuel through any components that are not already gunked up.

I'm still working on the logistics of disposing of the fuel. I think the tank is relatively full. I sure hate to buy (3) 5 gallon gas cans that I have to leave at the recycling center. In fact, I have not even been able to confirm my local hazardous waste center will take gas (for free) or if they have limits. Getting different answers. I am definitely paying for my mistakes. :blackeye:

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm still working on the logistics of disposing of the fuel. I think the tank is relatively full. I sure hate to buy (3) 5 gallon gas cans that I have to leave at the recycling center. In fact, I have not even been able to confirm my local hazardous waste center will take gas (for free) or if they have limits. Getting different answers. I am definitely paying for my mistakes. :blackeye:

We have to put bad gas in a sealed can and pay a hazmat company to take it away. I figure it costs me about $12 a gallon to get rid of bad gas. 3X the cost of buying the gas the first time . .. . If you can get rid of it for the price of a couple of cheap gas cans you are doing well.

[Dangermouse]

I've always wondered - any reason that the domestic owner can't just add it to his DD (say 1 gallon to a full tank) and just live with the occasional erratic running of the DD engine? Perhaps upgrade the DD fuel purchased to 91 or 93 to compensate.

I understand that a business has to handle it differently.

[Bill6298]

I've always wondered - any reason that the domestic owner can't just add it to his DD (say 1 gallon to a full tank) and just live with the occasional erratic running of the DD engine? Perhaps upgrade the DD fuel purchased to 91 or 93 to compensate.


I've always assumed 5+ year old gas would cause major problems even when mixed with good gas. Not sure if doing that ~10 times vs. 1 time would make a difference, based on how much old gas is in the tank. Although, I don't have any experience either way.

[DMCMW Dave]

I've always wondered - any reason that the domestic owner can't just add it to his DD (say 1 gallon to a full tank) and just live with the occasional erratic running of the DD engine? Perhaps upgrade the DD fuel purchased to 91 or 93 to compensate.

I understand that a business has to handle it differently.

Actually if the fuel is "kinda bad" i.e. smelly but still seems volatile, my tech will add some of it to the 30 gallon tank in his truck, maybe a gallon at a time. Once in a while it causes a few hiccups if he guesses wrong on how bad it was or gets carried away on the amount.

If you do this, go really easy (small amounts at a time) and don't put in anything that seems to have stuff floating in (i.e. dissolved rubber parts or water or rust particles) it or if it seems "thick" or oily-consistency. Keep in mind that your car tank is pretty small, and if it's only half full you may not be diluting the bad stuff enough.

[David T]

Actually if the fuel is "kinda bad" i.e. smelly but still seems volatile, my tech will add some of it to the 30 gallon tank in his truck, maybe a gallon at a time. Once in a while it causes a few hiccups if he guesses wrong on how bad it was or gets carried away on the amount.

If you do this, go really easy (small amounts at a time) and don't put in anything that seems to have stuff floating in (i.e. dissolved rubber parts or water or rust particles) it or if it seems "thick" or oily-consistency. Keep in mind that your car tank is pretty small, and if it's only half full you may not be diluting the bad stuff enough.

Another way to use it up is if you have older lawn equipment or motorcycles, boats, etc. If it still smells like gas it should burn but if you have a catalytic convertor or fuel injection do not use it. If you do try to use it in your DD you should run it through a strainer and maybe use up 1 gallon every time you fill up. After you burn it all up run a can of injector cleaner through. For the real sludge you can mix a little in with your recycled motor oil.

[virtualchuck]

+1 on that. We mixed the bad gas with good gas (about 1 to 3 ratio) and put it into the neighbor's lawn tractor... Exhaust smelled funky for a while, but it burned through it just fine. They get a tune up every spring anyway so they were willing to risk it.

Chuck

[Bill6298]

Check out the fuel lines near the fuel pump. Is this a really bad sign?

I somehow deleted all of the good fuel pump photos. I attached the only one that was left. Under the boot, it was a real big mess. I could not tell if this was the original pump. The PO said he replaced it over 10 years ago. The sender did not look too bad based on a quick visible inspection.

My hand pump failed before I could get all of the gas out. I am going to start again next weekend.

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[DMCMW Dave]

Check out the fuel lines near the fuel pump. Is this a really bad sign?

I somehow deleted all of the good fuel pump photos. I attached the only one that was left. Under the boot, it was a real big mess. I could not tell if this was the original pump. The PO said he replaced it over 10 years ago. The sender did not look too bad based on a quick visible inspection.

My hand pump failed before I could get all of the gas out. I am going to start again next weekend.

226342263522636

It means it was replaced about 10 years ago. We've seen a few cars with those orange lines and they have the same problem. Thanks for all the ethanol /MTBE etc, in the gas. . .
They are a hard Teflon that was "the good stuff" back then, but at 10 years seems to break down. Hopefully modern rubber/neoprene fuel-grade lines are made to take it, but I guess we'll find out.


You'll probably find all the rubber parts coming apart as well. Lift up the pump assembly and take a look, you'll be taking it all out anyway. At 10 years the tank will need the bottom scrubbed.

[Bill6298]

It means it was replaced about 10 years ago.

Yep, 10 years is right on the mark. I finally found the eBay ad from when I bought the car in December 2002. The previous owner said "New fuel system: fuel pump, hoses, etc". Not sure if that included the sender but it sounds like the improved sender wasn't much better than the original. Although I honestly don't recall ever having an incorrect fuel gauge. Looks like his vendor of choice was PJ Grady or Pittman DeLorean. I have no idea if those vendors were offering improved fuel system parts back then. I'll be calling you guys for the new and improved combo unit.

FWIW, I also think my original 5 year estimate was off. This fuel might have been sitting for more like 7 or 8 years.

[D Knight]

Mine was asleep for about 20 years. So listen to everyone about the fuel issues that arrive. I didn't and it cost me a lot of time. So save yourself the issues. I figured I could dilute it. I was wrong. It's way better go just bite the bullet and make sure it's clean. Also if Dave says something, take it as the master speaking, he's a bounty of knowledge !


-D Knight-

[DMCMW Dave]

Looks like his vendor of choice was PJ Grady or .

Orange Hoses = Grady. I put them on my car in about '98, replaced a couple of years ago.

[David T]

Orange Hoses = Grady. I put them on my car in about '98, replaced a couple of years ago.

Anyone that still has those orange hoses should remove them. They may have been the best available "Back in the Day" but do not seem to stand up to time and modern fuel. Anything that was NEW 10 years ago is now 10 years old. You may be able to save the fuel pump if it didn't suck up any crud in the tank. If the inner and outer boots are still pliable they may also be salvageable. The nylon baffle assembly is cleanable too. Remove all of the tank parts and wipe the tank out as thoroughly as you possibly can. It can be done without removing the tank, you just need long arms. For sludge and staining you can use Acetone, just use adequate ventilation. You may be able to get by with just some new hoses and maybe a pick-up filter. If the pick-up hose is spongy and swollen it should be replaced.

[Bill6298]

I made some decent progress today cleaning out the fuel tank. I used quite a bit of acetone, many shop rags, and even some zip tied to a long flexible metal dryer vent brush. I attached pictures to go along with this post.

1. The fuel pump seems intact with some corrosion on the top (under the boot). I am missing the plastic bottom to the baffle. I guess this is an original Bosch pump. I need to look up the numbers etched into the side.

2. The fuel sender appears to be original because I can't find any delorean.com labels anywhere (right?).

3. I should have bought the $20 borescope camera from Amazon in advance. I need to get a better view for additional cleaning with the acetone and for using my shop vac to remove the bits of shop rags left behind.

4. Gasoline must evaporate or my memory is really bad. I thought I had 3/4 tank of gas but I only used one 5 gallon can.

5. There was also a mushy filter (see picture) that needs to be replaced.

Next up: Finish up the cleaning next weekend and figure out how to flush the fuel lines. I need to go back and read some threads. I've also got to decide if I want to spend the $400 to install the new combo pump/sender. I have no experience but it _looks_ like I could re-use everything except the hoses. I assume I need to find a new bottom for the baffle. IIRC, vin 6298 should have a baffle bottom from the factory but the PO did replace the fuel pump more than once. I really hate to do this more than once and the sludge factor was high. Definitely more than 5 years sitting and maybe closer to 10.

[NightFlyer]

When I cleaned my tank, which sat for 10 years with old fuel, I simply dumped a gallon of lacquer thinner in the tank, plugged the holes, and let it sit overnight. In the morning, I scrubbed it with a dollar store long handled toilet brush. Then, I packed the tank tight with crumpled up newspaper and let is sit overnight again. In the morning, I removed all the newspaper, vacuumed the tank, took some pics of the inside to confirm it was clean - done.

Just use your point and shoot to get internal pics of the tank - don't waste your money on some fancy borescope camera from Amazon. It's not worth it.

Test the pump to confirm functionality by running a new pick-up and supply hose and submerging the pickup in a pail of new gas. Then, simply supply 12V to the pump. This also allows you to flush the pump outside your freshly cleaned tank, if still good and being reused. Even if the boot looks OK, I'd replace it, along with all other rubber parts. You'll also need a new boot support bracket - stainless is the way to go here.

Yes, that's the stock/OEM sender. If you plan on reusing it, you'll want to carefully clean it before reintroducing it to the tank. You'll also want to remove the cover to assure that all the internals are still intact. Should look like this if good:

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuelsendunit.jpg

If you see corroded/damaged pieces, then you can try a rebuild - Hervey (SpecialTAuto) charges $65 for this.

If you're changing out the accumulator and fuel filter, then I personally wouldn't worry about flushing the lines - once disconnected at each location, I'd simply purge the lines with some compressed air. Just make sure you have a catch can on the opposite end of the line being purged. Unless the gas in the filter is horrid (black and chunky), then I also wouldn't worry about flushing any of the soft/flex fuel lines in the engine bay.

Not sure about that "mushy filter" - maybe some kind of aftermarket pickup filter? I definitely wouldn't replace with a similar style. Here's what the new style looks like:

http://store.delorean.com/images/Product/large/101643.JPG

Good progress so far :thumbup:

[Bill6298]

Couldn't edit my previous post. The pump is a Bosch 580 254 957. Not on the cross reference lists but it appears it's been used for the DeLorean in the past as a replacement.

[Bill6298]

When I cleaned my tank, which sat for 10 years with old fuel, I simply dumped a gallon of lacquer thinner in the tank, plugged the holes, and let it sit overnight. In the morning, I scrubbed it with a dollar store long handled toilet brush. Then, I packed the tank tight with crumpled up newspaper and let is sit overnight again. In the morning, I removed all the newspaper, vacuumed the tank, took some pics of the inside to confirm it was clean - done.

Thanks for the tips NightFlyer. I saw some others who were using a camera in the tank and I wasn't sure how paranoid to be. I plan on changing the filter and accumulator but will see if I can salvage the pump and sender.

Yeah, I have no idea where the filter was originally located. It was stuck to the bottom of the tank under a lot of sludge. It appears to have been a small circular filter.

Any opinion on if I should replace the missing bottom of the baffle?

[NightFlyer]

Thanks for the tips NightFlyer. I saw some others who were using a camera in the tank and I wasn't sure how paranoid to be. I plan on changing the filter and accumulator but will see if I can salvage the pump and sender.

Yeah, I have no idea where the filter was originally located. It was stuck to the bottom of the tank under a lot of sludge. It appears to have been a small circular filter.

Any opinion on if I should replace the missing bottom of the baffle?

Not sure if that Bosch pump has an internal pickup filter screen or not, thus I edited my previous response to include the new style pickup filters.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about replacing the missing baffle bottom, as they're no longer available anyway...

[David T]

If you search around you will find the bottom part. The good news is that as bad as it seems I have seen worse. After you think you are done clean it one more time. Clean the metal frame that supports the fuel pump and paint it with fuel resistant paint. You will have to clean the lines, mixture unit, CPR and injectors. Replace the accumulator and fuel filter.

[Bill6298]

Any advice on what I should use the clean the outside of the pump and sender? The same gunk that was on the bottom of the tank is also on all of the components. My thought was that acetone would eat at the plastic and would not be safe to use.

[NightFlyer]

Any advice on what I should use the clean the outside of the pump and sender? The same gunk that was on the bottom of the tank is also on all of the components. My thought was that acetone would eat at the plastic and would not be safe to use.

I'd use lacquer thinner or carb cleaner - just don't leave the plastic parts submerged for too long.

[Bill6298]

Does antifreeze evaporate after a long time? I don't see any coolant in my overflow tank.

Is this a bad sign of things to come with my cooling system?

Hopefully this weekend I can turn the key for the first time on 6298 in a long time. I'd like to run the engine for 5 minutes to check the repaired fuel system. Tackling my cooling system was next on the list unless I need to immediately do more than top off.

[David T]

Does antifreeze evaporate after a long time? I don't see any coolant in my overflow tank.

Is this a bad sign of things to come with my cooling system?

Hopefully this weekend I can turn the key for the first time on 6298 in a long time. I'd like to run the engine for 5 minutes to check the repaired fuel system. Tackling my cooling system was next on the list unless I need to immediately do more than top off.

Although anti-freeze (assuming that is what was in there) can evaporate, it is more likely it leaked. Top it off and pressure test. If you don't know how old it is flush it out and refill with fresh.

[Bill6298]

Before you try to start it, remove the air box and GENTLY press the metering flap. If it offers any resistance at all, STOP. You will need to take off the fuel distributor and unstick the plunger, and this is a ton easier if you don't press the flap down all the way lodging the plunger up out of reach. If it is stuck like this, it's a good indication that you may have a couple of sticky injectors, plugged WUR, plugged FV.


Are you saying that the sensor plate should push down without a lot of pressure? Mine does not budge but I did not press down very hard since you suggested being gentle. Picture attached to make sure I'm talking about the right part.

Thanks

Bill

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[DMCMW Dave]

Are you saying that the sensor plate should push down without a lot of pressure? Mine does not budge but I did not press down very hard since you suggested being gentle. Picture attached to make sure I'm talking about the right part.

Thanks

Bill

24646

If the car has been off (not started) for more than a few hours, the plate should open with amost NO effort. If you have to force it at all you'll jam the piston up in the fuel distributor making things worse.

Yes that's the right part.

If it is stuck, the next thing to do is take the fuel distributor off the engine and unstick it. If you force the piston up into the fuel distributor it is much harder to unstick.

DO NOT be tempted to take the two halves of the fuel distributor apart. Just take off all the hoses, the three screws that hold it in place, and turn it upside down. Try to pull out the piston with some pliers and let us know what you find. If the piston comes loose be careful, if dropped on the floor bad things happen.

[Bill6298]

If the car has been off (not started) for more than a few hours, the plate should open with amost NO effort. If you have to force it at all you'll jam the piston up in the fuel distributor making things worse.

Yes that's the right part.

If it is stuck, the next thing to do is take the fuel distributor off the engine and unstick it. If you force the piston up into the fuel distributor it is much harder to unstick.

DO NOT be tempted to take the two halves of the fuel distributor apart. Just take off all the hoses, the three screws that hold it in place, and turn it upside down. Try to pull out the piston with some pliers and let us know what you find. If the piston comes loose be careful, if dropped on the floor bad things happen.

Yep, not started for years. Crap. Your previous comment was that I probably have other issues to deal with (gummed up WUR, FV, injectors, etc...). I already have the hoses off and did find some very old gas in some of the injector hoses and the FV. Rust was only present in _some_ of the bolts.

Thanks for the advice on getting it apart.

24647

[Bill6298]

DO NOT be tempted to take the two halves of the fuel distributor apart. Just take off all the hoses, the three screws that hold it in place, and turn it upside down. Try to pull out the piston with some pliers and let us know what you find. If the piston comes loose be careful, if dropped on the floor bad things happen.

Dave, are you saying I should remove just the fuel distributor or the entire mixture control unit (including the FD)? If I understand correctly, it's the control plunger inside of the fuel distributor that is actually stuck and I'm not worrying about the sensor plate itself.

24661

[NightFlyer]

Dave, are you saying I should remove just the fuel distributor or the entire mixture control unit (including the FD)? If I understand correctly, it's the control plunger inside of the fuel distributor that is actually stuck and I'm not worrying about the sensor plate itself.

24661

Just the FD - should be three screws.

[DMCMW Dave]

Just the FD - should be three screws.

Yes. After you take off all the lines, take out the three screws and it will lift off. The screws can be VERY tight, sometimes a hand impact driver is helpful.

[DMC5180]

Use a vacuum and suck the grit and dirt off the FD. You want to do your best to keep debris out of the ports.

[Bill6298]

... and turn it upside down. Try to pull out the piston with some pliers and let us know what you find. If the piston comes loose be careful, if dropped on the floor bad things happen.

Were you serious about the piston being that sensitive if it fell on the floor? I was going to put some vice grips on there and realized that might scratch up or make an indentation on the piston. It's really stuck on there.

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[jawn101]

Were you serious about the piston being that sensitive if it fell on the floor? I was going to put some vice grips on there and realized that might scratch up or make an indentation on the piston. It's really stuck on there.

246962469724698

The pistons in the FD are literally a precision fit down to the micron. Really anything is enough to disturb the tolerances enough to make for some real trouble. The K-Jet distributor is a miracle of engineering, especially given the technology at the time.

[David T]

You do NOT want to damage the surface of that piston. If it won't move try some Acetone on it. Let it soak and then try rotating the piston before trying to remove it. It MUST move freely, ie, if you hold it upside-down the piston should fall out of the F/D with it's own weight. If it hits the floor it can be bent or scratched and will no longer slide freely. You CANNOT get "just " a piston. You will have to get another F/D of you damage the piston so be careful with it. Take your time and be gentle and it will come loose.

[NightFlyer]

You should be able to grip the nub with a pair of pliers and pull it out. As the nub doesn't contact the cylinder wall within the FD, it doesn't matter if it gets some bite marks from the pliers.

Do it over a folded towel or something soft to absorb the impact should it fall, as impact with a hard surface could be detrimental, as Dave S previously mentioned.

[Bill6298]

You should be able to grip the nub with a pair of pliers and pull it out. As the nub doesn't contact the cylinder wall within the FD, it doesn't matter if it gets some bite marks from the pliers.

Do it over a folded towel or something soft to absorb the impact should it fall, as impact with a hard surface could be detrimental, as Dave S previously mentioned.

Thanks! :thumbup: I'd like to avoid a rebuild. The deeper I get, it seems my fuel system is gummed up more than I care to admit.

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks! :thumbup: I'd like to avoid a rebuild. The deeper I get, it seems my fuel system is gummed up more than I care to admit.

The bottom of it (where you grab it) is not the sensitive dimension. It's a VERY hard material and you won't hurt it grabbing it there.

There are a couple of other tricks that may get the plunger out - I've heard (not tried, we have other ways) that putting the whole FD in your kitchen oven at 200 degrees (when your wife isn't home) will soften things up a bit and won't hurt the unit (remember - it's bolted to the top of an engine!).

If it's gummed up you may still be able to bring it back to life, but if it's rusty in side you're about to go shopping. Penetrant won't hurt but I can't say that I've ever had it help either. Go easy on solvents, for example acetone may free it up but will destroy the internal rubber O-rings in very short order.

[NightFlyer]

Thanks! :thumbup: I'd like to avoid a rebuild. The deeper I get, it seems my fuel system is gummed up more than I care to admit.

You won't really know what you're working with until you get everything back together (with new filter and accumulator) after doing as thorough of a flush/cleaning as you can, and trying it out.

I hope you get lucky! :smile:

[Bill6298]

The bottom of it (where you grab it) is not the sensitive dimension. It's a VERY hard material and you won't hurt it grabbing it there.


Is the entire part visible in my picture considered the bottom and "safe" to grab (#2 in my picture)? Not sure if you meant only the very bottom tapered part was safe (#1). I am assuming the sensitive part is currently inside of my fuel distributor.

24709

[NightFlyer]

Is the entire part visible in my picture considered the bottom and "safe" to grab (#2 in my picture)? Not sure if you meant only the very bottom tapered part was safe (#1). I am assuming the sensitive part is currently inside of my fuel distributor.

Yes, the whole part pictured is safe to grab, and your assumption is correct.

[bfloyd]

Earlier in this thread, Dave mentioned pressing down lightly on the metering flap. How far should it be able to travel downwards? Mine hasn't been run since somewhere around the mid 90's, and I can press my plate down about 1/8" - 1/4" and then it just bounces back to the closed position. Is this right or is it supposed travel farther down?

I've cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel pump and sending unit, replaced the fuel accumulator and it's hoses, flushed the hard lines, and replaced the fuel filter. I've cranked the engine over with the starter (without the fuel pump) and it does rotate and definitely not seized up. I'm seriously considering topping off the coolant system, adding some fresh gas to the tank and see if it'll start. Have I missed anything?

[DMCMW Dave]

Earlier in this thread, Dave mentioned pressing down lightly on the metering flap. How far should it be able to travel downwards? Mine hasn't been run since somewhere around the mid 90's, and I can press my plate down about 1/8" - 1/4" and then it just bounces back to the closed position. Is this right or is it supposed travel farther down?

I've cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel pump and sending unit, replaced the fuel accumulator and it's hoses, flushed the hard lines, and replaced the fuel filter. I've cranked the engine over with the starter (without the fuel pump) and it does rotate and definitely not seized up. I'm seriously considering topping off the coolant system, adding some fresh gas to the tank and see if it'll start. Have I missed anything?

If you can't easily press it farther, the plunger is stuck. You'll need to pull the fuel distributor off and unstick it. DO NOT PRESS HARDER as this will maybe force it up into the fuel distributor making it that much harder to unstick.

Once you get it unstuck, pull all the injectors and run the fuel pump with the injectors in small jars, this will flush the system and show you whether or not any or all of the injectors are plugged.

[bfloyd]

Thanks for the info Dave.

So far I've sprayed down the top of the fuel distributor with PB Blaster and let it soak in for a day or so, then do it again before the weekend. Once the weekend gets here, I should remove all of the fuel line hoses and banjo bolts from the top of the fuel distributor, then remove the 3 screws from the top of the distributor? Once I get the plunger un-stuck, clean it up and put it all back together. I'm assuming I'll need to replace all of the copper washers on the banjo bolts for the fuel lines upon re-assembly?

One bright side to working on this car is I'm going to have a great collection of tools when I'm done!

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks for the info Dave.

So far I've sprayed down the top of the fuel distributor with PB Blaster and let it soak in for a day or so, then do it again before the weekend. Once the weekend gets here, I should remove all of the fuel line hoses and banjo bolts from the top of the fuel distributor, then remove the 3 screws from the top of the distributor? Once I get the plunger un-stuck, clean it up and put it all back together. I'm assuming I'll need to replace all of the copper washers on the banjo bolts for the fuel lines upon re-assembly?

One bright side to working on this car is I'm going to have a great collection of tools when I'm done!

Spraying the top won't do much except maybe take the paint off.

Yes, remove all the lines and the three slotted screws, it will lift up. The three screws are typically very hard to get loose the first time, sometimes a hand impact will help.

Yes, clean with solvent and q-tips. DO NOT put solvent inside the fuel distributor as there are rubber parts inside that will fall apart.

Replacing all the copper rings is the by-the-book standard but they can usually be re used a time or two. But you are not supposed to do that (i.e. I'm disclaiming all over the place here!). There is a rubber o-ring under the fuel distributor that you ought to have replaced.

[bfloyd]

Lots of progress tonight on the fuel distributor. Got all of the fuel lines off the car ( injectors too) and was able to take a big hefty screwdriver and break the 3 screws lose on the distributor. Took it over to my bench and the plunger was stuck up in there just like the photos posted earlier in this thread. Got a good bite on the nub sticking out with a pair of vice grips and worked it back and forth until it would turn. Once it was unstuck I was able to gently slide it out of the distributor body. Surprisingly the vice grips didn't even leave a mark on the tip of the plunger.

No way am I going to be able to fire up the engine any time soon, looks like I'm going to end up replacing all of the fuel lines before that can happen. I have no idea how old the current lines are and I've got the time to wait. Plenty of other things on the car to keep me occupied.