Post-storage start-up checklist?

[Bill6298]

Hello Everyone,

I've spent several hours reading threads but did not find a complete list of essential things to do before cranking an engine after improper storage. In my case this is nearly 5+ years of storage in a garage.

1. Clearly I need to clean the fuel tank. I found plenty of really great threads and videos on this. I plan to clean first and order parts second. Is it a foregone conclusion that I'll be ordering the new DMCH pump and sender combo unit? (The PO said he replaced the fuel system around year ~2000 but I'm not sure what components were used)

2. Another obvious item: drain and change the motor oil and filter. I'll also change the air filter because it's easy and cheap.

3. The battery is removed and I need to buy a new one.

Are there any other items that should addressed before the first crank? I'm looking to avoid unnecessary damage.

For example, I don't know if using the brakes briefly could damage the entire system without changing brake fluid first. (FWIW, my PO converted the system to Silicon DOT 5 fluid.)

Before storage, there was nothing catastrophically wrong. My braking power was diminished but the PO only changed out what was necessary to convert to silicon around year 2000. I had problems starting the car in the morning only after parking outside overnight. Broken spedo. Really low power when running the air, headlights, new radio. As far as I can tell, none of this should keep me from tackling the big items first and getting the engine started.

Thanks

Bill

[NightFlyer]

If ethanol blended fuel has sat in the system during the car's 5 year slumber, then you'll also want to do the following:

- change the fuel filter;

- change the fuel accumulator.

The pump and sender in the tank may still be alright - hard to say. You'll have a pretty good idea when you pull the pump to clean the tank. Best to test the pump out of the tank with a fresh fuel supply.

If you do end up going with the pump/sender combo unit from DMCH, I personally highly recommend installing an external in-line check valve due to the known problems with the combo unit's internal check valve, regardless of whatever DMCH may tell you. You can see my thread on this subject here:

http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...e-Check-Valves

It also wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and put a teaspoon of oil (whatever you're going to put in the crankcase or a top end oil such Marvel Mystery Oil) down the plug holes and into the cylinder to help free the rings and prevent scoring of the liner walls on initial start-up. I like to let the oil penetrate at least a couple days before cranking, if possible, giving a slight blast of compressed air down the plug holes a couple times daily to blow any oil settling on the piston heads off and onto the liner walls. Of course, you want to be sure to keep the holes plugged/covered while the plugs are out so crap doesn't get into the cylinder. While you may feel tempted to just go ahead and change out the plugs prior to starting, I wouldn't. Get it started and let any access oil from the cylinder burn off first with the old plugs, as too much oil down the holes or some residual bad gas/crap in the fuel system could foul out the plugs. Once you have everything sorted and the engine is ready to run regularly, then go ahead and change out the plugs. I personally would only use the Bosch HR6DS (silver) or HR6DC (copper) single electrode plugs if your car is running a stock/OEM ignition system.

Other than that, it will just be a matter of getting it running and then assessing any fuel delivery (K-Jet) issues that may arise (hopefully they don't) - ie: fuel injectors, fuel distributor, PPR/WUR, cold start valve, etc. The condition of the fuel that comes out of the fuel filter when changing it will give you a good idea as to whether or not you'll have many engine end fuel delivery issues.

You'll also want to flush the cooling system and change the coolant, but that can be done after you get the engine running.

The brake system is also something that you can easily assess once you get the engine running.

Best of luck!

[rdarlington]

Hello Everyone,

I've spent several hours reading threads but did not find a complete list of essential things to do before cranking an engine after improper storage. In my case this is nearly 5+ years of storage in a garage.

Bill

Fuel tank, for sure. Clean the tank, run cleaner through the fuel pump. I don't think there's any reason to replace the pump unless you see problems. Other folks should chime in on this though as I've had my ride for less than 2 months. I'm still green. I did replace mine with the DMCH all in one unit but that was because I suspected problems that I didn't really have. My fuel was low and the baffle assembly was completely missing. What felt like fuel pump problems was really a fuel pickup tube bouncing around in a low tank and sucking air.

Check the clutch hydraulics. Look for leaks around the pedal box under the dash where the master pokes through. I had my D for 24 hours before I got stranded away from home where I couldn't get the car in gear. That ordeal forced me to learn how to bleed a clutch in the dark around midnight, but she limped home. It won't hurt the engine, but it's just an annoyance. If you buy new clutch hydraulics parts, buy the kit from Hervy (specialtauto.com). It's both the master and slave cylinders, add the clutch line and add the bleeder kit. It will most likely show up with the bleeder attached to the slave. A nice touch and I was very appreciative for it.

Old brake fluid won't hurt anything, just flush it out with new stuff when you get a chance, assuming your calipers aren't leaking. If they are, fix that first.

Check the coolant level, oil level, transmission fluid level, etc.

I can't think of anything else that is absolutely needed, but I'm sure other folks will think of more stuff to check.

[Rich]

This advice is for the few miles AFTER you get it moving again, so skip it if you are polling only for what to do before that.

Safety advice:
Expect one or more of the brake calipers to stick/seize, either as it sits now or sometime during the early miles you will be putting on the car. Typically that will mean they won't release properly and you'll be wearing out the affected pads faster than need be, your fuel economy might be poor and, worst of all, the brakes will not perform up to par. The safety aspects should not be overlooked. Getting the car moving seems like the goal now but at the same time you need to be very sure it will be capable of stopping the way it was designed to stop.

So take it easy to begin with by choosing your speeds and routes carefully on those first drives, then take the time to check the brakes out. At some point take a minute at the end of the drive to check for a wheel that feels warmer to the touch than other wheels do. Check for brake pull to one side or the other. With the wheels up and not in gear, check to see how freely they each spin. Stuck calipers can be rebuilt or replaced. In pairs.

[WelmoedJ]

+ all

After all this and refilling the tank, disconnect the feed line at the fuel distributor.
Power the pump to blow the last old fuel and residue out.
This helps keeping the FD as clean as possible.

Clean the WUR in and out connections too.
After reconnecting the feed line you may wish to do the same with the lines to the WUR and injectors.
Hopefully this will prevent the injectors to get clogged by residue in the fuel lines.

[DMCMW Dave]

Before you try to start it, remove the air box and GENTLY press the metering flap. If it offers any resistance at all, STOP. You will need to take off the fuel distributor and unstick the plunger, and this is a ton easier if you don't press the flap down all the way lodging the plunger up out of reach. If it is stuck like this, it's a good indication that you may have a couple of sticky injectors, plugged WUR, plugged FV.

I find it best to pull all the injectors and flush the fuel injection system before you try to turn the key the first time. This insures that everything works, gets the air out of the system , and insures that that you are trying to start the car on good gas right from the beginning.

[David T]

Before you try to start it, remove the air box and GENTLY press the metering flap. If it offers any resistance at all, STOP. You will need to take off the fuel distributor and unstick the plunger, and this is a ton easier if you don't press the flap down all the way lodging the plunger up out of reach. If it is stuck like this, it's a good indication that you may have a couple of sticky injectors, plugged WUR, plugged FV.

I find it best to pull all the injectors and flush the fuel injection system before you try to turn the key the first time. This insures that everything works, gets the air out of the system , and insures that that you are trying to start the car on good gas right from the beginning.

These are all good tips. Don't forget to also replace the battery if over 5 years old, tires over 7, ALL fluids, struts, wiper blades and don't forget the paperwork which means insurance and plates. Once you get the car going you will find all kinds of things to do! 5 years is not all that long. Try waking up a car that was sleeping over 10 years!

[Bill6298]

These are all really great tips. I think I have a good idea of things to do before the first crank vs. first drive. The biggest lesson is that I need to read more about the K-Jetronic system before proceeding.

For powering up the fuel pump manually (after the tank is clean with new fuel), I believe I need to jump the relay. I'll search on this one. It's too bad I can't use the fuel pump to drain the tank but I'd hate to run that bad fuel through any components that are not already gunked up.

I'm still working on the logistics of disposing of the fuel. I think the tank is relatively full. I sure hate to buy (3) 5 gallon gas cans that I have to leave at the recycling center. In fact, I have not even been able to confirm my local hazardous waste center will take gas (for free) or if they have limits. Getting different answers. I am definitely paying for my mistakes.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm still working on the logistics of disposing of the fuel. I think the tank is relatively full. I sure hate to buy (3) 5 gallon gas cans that I have to leave at the recycling center. In fact, I have not even been able to confirm my local hazardous waste center will take gas (for free) or if they have limits. Getting different answers. I am definitely paying for my mistakes.

We have to put bad gas in a sealed can and pay a hazmat company to take it away. I figure it costs me about $12 a gallon to get rid of bad gas. 3X the cost of buying the gas the first time . .. . If you can get rid of it for the price of a couple of cheap gas cans you are doing well.

[Dangermouse]

I've always wondered - any reason that the domestic owner can't just add it to his DD (say 1 gallon to a full tank) and just live with the occasional erratic running of the DD engine? Perhaps upgrade the DD fuel purchased to 91 or 93 to compensate.

I understand that a business has to handle it differently.