Alternator installation issue

[Renee_1632]

Yesterday I tried to install a new alternator. I got the old one out fine, but when I went to install the new one from DMCH (seen here: http://www.delorean.com/store/p-6804-alternator-140-amp.aspx ) I noticed the connectors for the ground wire were different:

2924
New Alternator. Note the connector, with ONE hole.

2925
Old Alternator. Note the TWO holes.

How do I install the new alternator? Do I need an adapter? Can I splice?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[DMCMW Dave]

That's not a factory wire on the old one, someone already spliced it. Cut that connector off.

The actual intent is that you put the wire from the car into the one hole on the new alternator and crimp it. With a crimp tool if you want it to hold, don't use pliers.

[DeLorean03]

Hey Renee,

I'll try to keep this as simple as possible, as I know this question will get ALOT of comments. Basically, DMCH's has a connector that's different than your connector. The ground wire your alternator has is the "female" end socket. In that socket goes a "male" spade connector. A male spade connector would be a flat rectangle, and this piece goes in the "two hole" female connector that is currently on your alternator (hence the words "male" and "female" - I never forgot which was which after Casey explained to me this way =P). You have two options:

1. Find the "male end" that corresponds with the female connector DMCH's alternator has, or.....

2. Cut the "one hole connector" off DMCH's alternator. Attach (or "splice") on a "two hole connector" like the one that's on your alternator. Now that DMCH's alt has the same female connector as your old alternator, it should be a an easy installation from here.

Let me know if you have any questions or need further help. Good luck!

[Renee_1632]

I get both of the above responses, but which is it? Is it just the crimping I need to do?

My only concern with the splicing is the connectors I have are plastic. Won't they melt back there, that close to the exhaust?

[DeLorean03]

I would say go Dave's way - and I'm not questioning his authority, BUT....

What if you have to disconnect your alternator for any reason? You can't "uncrimp" a crimped connection. With the male and female ends, you can quickly disconnect and go.

As far as the exhaust, route the wires away from it. Or do what I did, zip tie this wire with other wires in the area. I know on mine, there's alot of wiring for all the other connections going to the starter and alternator all zip tied together. I zip-tied them, then cut off the excess "tie" so it doesn't look too "shoddy."

[DMC3165]

Your best bet in splicing the connection is to use heat shrinkable electrical connectors. They are available in any auto parts store and you can use something as basic as a cigarette lighter for a heat source. Make sure to crimp the connections good and tight with a crimping tool, then heat the outer covering and watch it shrink like a shrinky dink. They will seal out moisture and the elements far better then tape or just about anything else you could use. the only downside is they are about $.70 each. Good Luck!!

[Chris 16409]

Doesn't the wire disconnect from the alternator via a plug? If so, you can solder and shrink wrap the wire coming off the car to the alternator wire. The alternator wire should be attached to a black plug, unless Houston is doing things different now. I've attached some pictures.

As far as I know the single wire is not the ground wire. It has something to do with the battery light and voyage regulator. The alternator is grounded to the engine block via the mounting bracket.

[content22207]

It's the field excitation wire.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DMCMW Dave]

I would say go Dave's way - and I'm not questioning his authority, BUT....

What if you have to disconnect your alternator for any reason? You can't "uncrimp" a crimped connection. ."

Unplug it from the alternator like the alternator designer intended.

Even on the OEM alternator it's a bolt-on connection. There is no reason for that to be disconnectable there and it's just another failure point. The fitting on the DMCH alternator is NOT a connector. It's a crimp fitting.

[Renee_1632]

Thanks everyone...I think I'll go with Dave's crimping suggestion. Hopefully 1632 will be back up and running this afternoon!

As for removal, the wire is connected to a black tab that can be removed from the alternator, so no worries there :)