I tried it at least six times and tired of feeling like my sinuses were on fire and my head was going to burst like a balloon every time I used it. Then I gave up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I'm weird, I guess.
Farrar
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I tried it at least six times and tired of feeling like my sinuses were on fire and my head was going to burst like a balloon every time I used it. Then I gave up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I'm weird, I guess.
Farrar
Did you use the salt? It burns if you don't use the salt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
It said that first-time users should use half a packet in the water, so I did that and it burned. After that, I tried a full packet, and it burned. I bought a bottle of that "sinus rinse boost," which is also supposed to be more soothing, and tried adding that to the solution. That seemed to make things worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
I dunno, it probably has something to do with the narrow sinus passages I have... I have to be very careful when I am congested, always blowing my nose and never sniffing, because my sinuses block easily and it leads to sinus infections in a heartbeat. Until I started being more careful about this, I was getting sinus infections about four to six times a year. Paying more attention to the way I breathe when I am congested and a change of diet has helped greatly, but when I get a cold, things still get tricky and I have to watch out for potential sinus infection development.
And that's more information than you ever needed to know about that! Enjoy. :lol:
Farrar
Carb cleaner works mirracles when cleaning out small passages. You might be able to clean your nose out with it and get a nice buzz at the same time.
Carb cleaner sucks. I guarantee that after a couple of good snorts of straight ether, you won't feel any burning at all.
It looks like I have a touch of 'flu. Oh well, at least my sinuses are draining and I have plenty of anti-nausea medicine on hand.
I have 1,043 hours of sick time available... so I plan on staying home the next two days. Maybe during the spells I am feeling not-so-crappy I can make some headway with Sparky's electrical compartment. I have been wanting to do those relays now for a couple of weeks.
Time for an early night.
Thanks, all, for the well-wishes!
Farrar
Feeling almost 100% now. Will get to the car tomorrow or Sunday. I have to catch up on work and school first.
Best,
Farrar
Well, my immune system got its bony little butt kicked the past few days... turns out there's some nasty stomach bug going around. That has worked its way out of my system but I still have a nasty chest cold. Sorry no progress or pictures of late.
Farrar
Wow, when I posted the previous entry I saw that this thread had 5,600 views. Now it's got 28 more! Since so many folks are watching, I need to appeal to the community.
But first, a little back-story.
I got home from work and class today and started having some food. Next I will be going to band practice. For an instant, I thought "Hey! I put new spark plugs in the D, adjusted the float and idle air screws and put in a new needle valve clip -- I should drive the D since it's cool outside!" And then I thought "But wait -- the last two times I thought I would take that car out for five minutes I ended up waiting for a tow home. Never mind." A year ago I would not have hesitated to drive the car anywhere, and now I have come to the point where I think "Why take the fun car when I can take the reliable car instead?" At least in my head, the DeLorean is now less reliable than a plumber's estimate. A year ago I would not have hesitated to drive the car anywhere.
What happened? I initially quit driving the car because, with no a/c, it was so hot outside that I couldn't stand to sit in the vehicle for more than a few minutes. Months elapsed, and when I drove it again, the fuel pump died. So I installed a new fuel pump, and I had an oil leak. So I fixed the oil leak. Then the carburetor leaked. So I rebuilt the carburetor... and flooded the engine, and fouled three spark plugs. So I bought new spark plugs. Most folks could probably have gone through this amount of work in a few days, but because I am busy and the weather down here generally sucks this time of year, it has taken me a couple of months to do this. I last drove the car to the filling station in April; the tank is still 3/4 full.
As the car has sat, it has acquired a lengthy to-do list:
- remove unused relay sockets
- re-wire cooling fan circuit
- sand and paint fascias
- replace evaporator
- replace blower motor switch
- replace rusty hardware underneath car (rocker panels, fuel tank closing plate, seat studs)
- repair driver's seat (broken stud)
I could use a bit of a pep talk at this point. I don't know what to work on first, and the car needs to be ready for a photo-shoot by the end of the month. What do y'all think?
Farrar
People took pictures of the Tucker prototype, and it had to be pushed around.
Your April gas will be fine. The pictures of my 400 inch Lincoln ignition were taken with the car running on 5 year old gas. Smells like hell, but it will explode.
At least your DeLorean has front wheels. I couldn't drive either of mine if I wanted to.
You do need to run a new ground from your inertia switch to one of the driver side body bolts. Rather than trying to find a ring terminal that large, just strip back a bunch of wire, wrap it around the bolt, and be sure to pinch some of the jacket under the head to act as a strain relief.
Bill Robertson
#5939
If you can get the car to my house I promise to have the AC fixed for you in time for our open house event.
You are aware Farrar needs a new evaporator installed?
Bill Robertson
#5939
That sounds like the route to go, IMHO, Farrar. -- The rest is mostly 'maintenance' not preventing you from using/enjoying it.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Yep. The car will sit under my carport until it is fixed.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
So it looks like the consensus is that I should drive the car to Steve's house and fix the a/c...
Question: if the car dies on the way there, do I have it towed home, or to Steve's house? I am a AAA+ member...
Farrar
Towing to my house sounds good to me. We can fix whatever else might break while we are in the shade.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I'm going to a family reunion Saturday but I'll be available again Sunday afternoon and every Saturday/weekend after that. Just let me know when is good for you.
I love the idea of having a celebrity's car in my carport.
If the car is staying at Steve's house, how do you plan to get back to New Orleans?
Bill Robertson
#5939
Me.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
In a perfect world however, he could show up early one Saturday and we could have all the AC work done by dark. But with Deloreans I have learned to multiply all repair times by four. I expect to run into problems resulting it it taking four days to get the job done.
I have this awesome girlfriend who can pick me up in Livingston if necessary.
OK, I will plan on doing a/c work at Steve's house as soon as I can make it out there. I can start troubleshooting my fuel system today when I get home from radioland.
Farrar
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXOsV6rum7U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVj5h1ac25c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkfkcn_M2W0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dLDRrVG5gU
My head is filled with remarkably rude words, all jostling for release; and a fair amount of numbing confusion.
Good night.
Farrar
You're sucking air, most likely at the intake ports (where the manifold mates to the heads). Spray them with carb or brake cleaner. Don't forget to shoot underneath.
If you pop the manifold off I bet you will find a damaged O ring.
Unless your manifold hold down bolts are just loose.
Of course there is vapor coming from the breather hose -- your engine isn't running.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Bill, you're probably right, but the question is how. There's no way the bolts could have loosened themselves -- I haven't had the manifold off in ages. I had no vacuum leaks and the damn car was running rock solid and idling smoothly when I was driving it regularly several months ago. Then the fuel pump died. O-rings can't damage themselves, can they? Are there DeLorean fairies which circle the globe and cause vacuum leaks? We do seem to be plagued by the damn things no matter what fuel-delivery we're running.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
And the carburetor still leaks fuel. But you noticed that, I'm sure.
Now I really AM going to bed. I need extra sleep -- I have to drive the car tomorrow, somehow.
Farrar
I've found that a real good way to check for vacuum leaks is to take a fog machine that you would buy from a party supply store, take the front cap off, attach a vacuum hose to the little brass/copper nozzle, and then attach the other end to intake vacuum.
Seal off the throttle plates with plastic wrap, a cap, whatever. Turn the machine on and see where the smoke comes out.
What's it supposed to smell like? It smells like smoke to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Farrar
It will smell like the underside of a valve cover.
When the engine is running, PCV pulls those vapors into the carb base. You can put your finger over the breather hose and feel PCV sucking.
When you turn the engine off, the breather hose becomes a chimney to the outside world.
Attachment 5304
Bill Robertson
#5939
Check.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Okeydoke, I was just wondering if it might have anything to do with the coolant I found in the air cleaner housing the last time I drove the car.
Gonna look for an air leak around the intake manifold this afternoon before driving it. In any event, the car needs to be somewhere under its own power this evening. With any luck, the vacuum leak won't melt any of my new spark plugs.
Farrar
Farrar,Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
A question and word of advice, if I may:
Has that float been re-soldered? If so, get another one, its weight is fairly critical.
You should never EVER push down on or pop the needle valve side of the float with your finger.
Thanks for the advice. I don't know if the float has been re-soldered; I bought it from a store so I figured it was legit. The black plastic float that came with the carb was beginning to become porous, so I replaced it with this one last year.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
When I have to remove the float to adjust it, I remove its clip with tweezers. My fingers are too big to get into that recess.
Just how delicate is the needle valve? I know it has a rubber tip, but it doesn't look damaged to me. Since one is supposed to adjust the float level "dry," how does one get the needle valve to seat without moving it down manually?
Farrar
The only reason I asked is that the soldering looked..um...shitty...as if the excess wasn't removed and it missed the weight check. I've seen them look 'ugly', but the amount and drip I see raised a red flag. Maybe nothing...you can measure and compare.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
If nothing was done to it since it was running fine I wouldn't worrry about it, at least until you had it apart again...
Very. There is always a warning about it in the kits if nothing else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Usually, a ring will form around the tip rather than bust or crack it... (A very thin ring is natural, from the float pushing on it, eventually.)
You invert the carb to set the float, always. (Don't let someone talk you out of being precise here. Note the varying measurements for different vehicles, dozens of them for a given carb, given down to at least 1/64 = .015625 inch! The measurement is with the float's weight supplying the pressure (through the lever).)
How heavy is it supposed to be? It certainly seems to float just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
Ah HA! This was not mentioned in the instructions that came with my rebuild kit. I guess they figured anyone who is rebuilding a carb knows what he is doing; they were wrong, of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
I will check the needle valve again tonight. When I looked at it yesterday, it looked brand new.
Thanks,
Farrar
I'm sure your needle valve is fine. If you have any doubt, energize the pump and see if fuel flow is shut off. If it is, your tip is fine.
That is one advantage of electric fuel pumps over mechanical pumps.
Bill Robertson
#5939
The needle valve is fine.
So are all of my O-rings and vacuum lines.
I have spark on all six cylinders.
Still runs like crap.
Suggestions?
Edit: On second thought, you can make suggestions but I will simply add them to a to-do list. I am not going to do anything to the car until I have a nice long chunk of time to work on it. I am going to take a DeLorean vacation and concentrate on school and work, for now.
Farrar
If you are 100% sure your intake is vacuum tight (that includes HVAC/brake booster and modulator valve. Also make sure whatever you are using in the injector bungs is vacuum tight), this is an instance where you need to use the curb idle screw.
Reseat the idle screws all the way. Use the curb idle screw to crack the throttle plates open enough for the engine to run. While it's warming up, use a timing light to ensure all 6 plugs are firing consistently.
When the engine is warm, alternate between opening the idle screws and closing the throttle plates. Open each idle screw about 1/2 turn, then try backing off the curb idle screw. It shouldn't take long for you to find idle screw settings that allow the engine to idle smoothly with the throttle plates fully closed (curb idle screw not touching at all) -- about 1.5 to 2 turns. 3.5 turns is way too far -- something is definitely wrong there. I just double checked mine -- just shy of 2 turns each.
If you haven't touched the fast idle screw or rotated the choke housing, you should be all set for a cold start tomorrow.
Bill Robertson
#5939
I have always used the curb idle screw...Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
We could just meet up and swap carbs/manifolds for testing purposes. If your car still runs like crap your issue lies somewhere else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Edit: I'm going to be in Laplace tomorrow after work. If you have time then we could meet up and swap stuff in a parking lot somewhere.
No time for that tomorrow, but I appreciate the offer.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Farrar
I just had an interesting thought: every time I spend money on an area of the car, I have trouble in another area. Perhaps I should simply avoid spending money on any upgrades or improvements of any kind, instead simply waiting until things break and replacing them as needed.
Ah, well. The vacation continues. (Although I will have to move it to a different parking spot soon.) Easy enough not to spend money on it when I'm not driving it.
Farrar
Have you ensured your HVAC/brake booster line is vaccum tight? Last year Matt Spittle's HVAC supply line cracked underneath the console, just as mine did in 2003. Use your hand held vacuum pump to ensure both lines hold vacuum (pull it off the manifold and test it there).
Also test your modulator valve while you're at it.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Is the "modulator valve" the thing behind the HVAC selector switch with all the different vacuum lines for the air flaps connected to it?
Farrar
It's the vacuum operated valve on the transmission that keeps it from shifting like a 1952 Mack truck -- the other 3/16" line off the back of your manifold.
Bill Robertson
#5939