Its a generic aftermarket ski rack. Clamps nicely to the luggage rack.Quote:
Originally Posted by Domi
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Its a generic aftermarket ski rack. Clamps nicely to the luggage rack.Quote:
Originally Posted by Domi
All right, looks really nice and fits perfectly :)
Drove a 100 miles today with the D. No problems at all. Air temp was 30-40 degrees and the heater is way more than needed at that temp. Also my fuel gauge never jumped to straight up so maybe I did fix that problem.
Tonight, I aimed #2613's headlights using the Hoppy aimers that I got from eBay a couple of weeks ago. Although I knew they were all too low from my last nighttime drive, I was surprised at how badly off they were horizontally as well. Fortunately, the adjusting hardware is usable in spite of the rust.
Thanks to the adjustment, one of the low-beam bulbs does not sit properly in its retaining bracket. I'm guessing that over the years the headlight buckets have deformed slightly due to rust. I should plan on replacing the buckets before long, but I'm afraid that it would involve removing the fascia, which is scary to me.
No and no.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
No, the buckets shouldn't deform due to rust. Unless they are truly down to tinfoil thickness in which case they need to come out because your headlights will be bouncing around in there.
No, the fascia needn't be removed to change the buckets. Fascia-on change-out is tedious but possible. Sort of like a 3-D puzzle. Mask it off all around so you don't nick the paint and then go in for those buckets. Be patient. Take photos as you go to aid reassembly. And don't drop any screws or springs in there.
That's the best news I've read all day! Thanks, Rich! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich
Kind of funny for a news reader
On an ordinary work day, I host music three hours a day and only read news for two minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by robvanderveer
Back to the subject though: seems Houston's run out of NOS RH headlight bucket/bracket assemblies. I might have to go parts diving or search for a cross-reference (ugh) if mine aren't salvageable.
I could bend mine back into shape, perhaps.
I have noticed that where other DeLoreans' headlights line up straight across, #2613's high beams sit higher than the low beams. It's been bothering me off and on for about seven years...
... did this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGRkAAz6bpo
Angle drive replacement......speedometer works now, but is off by 10-12 mph.
Now that the speedo works I was able to test the trip odometer. It goes to '11111' instead of '00000' so I must've messed up when I replaced the reset shaft.
If it is consistently off by 10-12, you just got the needle on wrong. You can fix that when you take the trip digits out and fix that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_NYS
BTW - I've never seen a 5-digit trip odometer. :tongue_stick:
Attempted fixing a rubbing sound coming from my driver's side front wheel well that went away when braking. Pulled my tire, inspected pads and rotor, both seemed fine (only about 3k miles on them since rotated and new pads). Removed caliper mounting bolts, moved it around, and put bolts back in. Did same with brake pad pins.
Went for a short test drive and didn't hear it, but it came and went before too so only time will tell if it is really fixed. Here is to hoping one mounting bolt was just tightened more on one side than the other, causing the caliper to sit a little crooked.
I had a squeak from the drivers door that was driving me crazy. It was loud and persistent enough at speed that it would hurt my ears. I knew it was the latches and striker pins because when i pushed on the door with my knee I could get it to stop.
I used clear, thick suspension grease (from Toby's bushing upgrade) and slathered the pins and latches and gave the weather stripping a dose of silicone while I was on a grease trip. The drivers door on 4916 is now the quietest, smoothest door I've ever operated.
Haha, fair enough, I have 111.1 instead of 000.0....lol!Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Before I removed the needle, I marked the position and I'm pretty sure I put the needle in the same spot. I'll try taking it off and re-positioning it....I'm guessing I'll have to do some trial & error before I get it just right. I don't know much about how a speedometer works, I'm reading a few mentions of something magnetic and some type of calibration...wouldn't be any of that, right?
Had a go at starting the engine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeWXYFX6IjE
Even with the booster battery, voltage was not enough. Could be the result of the fact that I had only a trickle charger on overnight and most of the day after last night's reading of 11.1 volts ... or maybe it's time for a new battery.
It also could be the timing is so badly off (despite my best efforts to line everything up, including removing the muffler and turning the engine by hand with my thumb in the #1 spark plug well...) that it won't start no matter how much juice I give it, and the popping sound at the end was a small backfire.
Time will tell...
Sorry to hear this still isn't starting for you. I know you've verified you have fuel and spark, not sure what else to look at. Have other owners been able to take a look at it yet with you? I know how frustrating longstanding issues can be. Eventually you get to the point where you don't even want to look at the car anymore, I just hope you aren't there yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Thanks! I got there months ago, and decided to cover the car and not think about it while I took care of other real-life stuff. Now that I am not pressed for time, it's not frustrating me, fortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
I'll get there, bit by bit. It's just a matter of going slowly and taking one thing at a time.
Farrar---
You might remember I went thru a no start problem also a few months back---still was K-Jet---finally came down to weak spark---just not enough spark to run---finally removed K-Jet, and replaced rotor, cap, wires, and plugs. While that far down, built an intake, bought & rebuilt a carb, fabbed linkage brackets, and the engine started actually first crank. Have not gone back to K-Jet, car runs so good now, but I am sure all my problems were "weak spark""---have you changed rotor, cap, wires, plugs---got to have a hot spark.
Leroy
IMHO, even though you cleaned the carb and verified fuel in the carb, it still sounds like no fuel in the cylinders to me (kind of a dry cranking sound). If you had fuel in the cylinders, even with the timing just a little off, slow cranking should have at least tried to fire.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Have you ever considered putting a shot of starter fluid directly into a few cylinders and then try to start it? Even a slow crank should fire a few cylinders. Then you'd know if it was truly a fuel problem or not. If not, must be timing, cause you verified spark.
Thomas
...
My problem ---just like yours--no start----spark was there---just weak at the plugs---very hot spark from the coil----sprayed starter fluid in intake---still would not fire----even had a 50amp boost charger---not enough fire----changed cap, rotor, wires, plugs---ran first crank.. I still bet its weak spark problem.. Good luck
I heard a couple of cylinders fire when it sped up toward the end. Timing seems to be a good theory. The engine started dying while hot last year, so I replaced the pickup coil in the distributor. Then the engine wouldn't start after I re-installed the distributor. Although I got the engine at TDC (as far as I know), it's possible that I installed the distributor incorrectly.Quote:
Originally Posted by citizen
Cap, plugs, and wires are all good with fewer than 10,000 miles on them. The cause of a weak spark could be due to the fact that my battery has gone practically unused for a year, with the exception of these "trickle-charge and troubleshoot" sessions every so often.Quote:
Originally Posted by leroylem
One theory is that I re-installed the distributor 180 degrees off... so tonight I decided to test that theory.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFh8ln0LkrQ
Oil and filter change, coated the fronts of the seats with leatherique, put her to bed for the winter :(
Ordered new louver struts. I'm gonna need my vice-grip back soon enough. :P
I was having trouble with the turn signal lever, it would not hold in place when I pushed it down (left) so I would just hold it in place. Upon closer examination, the lever itself was blocked by the housing around the column. The housing is installed correctly, or looks to be, so I took a Dremel tool and enlarged the lever opening about 1/8" and now it works perfectly.
Of course, then my low beams wouldn't work---so after reading every single thread here, checking all relays/fuses/switch/etc/etc I finally stumbled upon one thread concerning dirty contacts within the column. Turns out some of the small filings from my Dremel work collected on the low/high contacts. A blasting of compressed air solved the problem.
Removed left front wheel to find the dust cap intact but the angle drive shaft twisted off (I lost speedo/odo/trip 91 miles into the cross country trip and used a GPS app for the remainder); chucked lower speedo cable into drill and ran to 50mph to verify function of speedo/odo/trip. Watched the "Replace angle drive" video on youtube.
Ordered led kit from DMCH; ordered extended convex mirrors from Poland (looking forward to these); ordered angle drive replacement from DMCH.
Bought a new battery, just because.
Probably broke / misaligned the AC mode switch, now it hisses constantly :(
New louvre struts arrived today! Also, I added a couple of "pro" tools to my toolbox: automatic wire strippers for 10-22 AWG wire, and a cutter/crimper to replace the so-so one I bought at Radio Shack years ago (whose handle broke during an aggressive crimp :P).
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=31870&stc=1
Downloaded and installed OneNote 2013 (now free) and set it up to work and sync between all my PC's. My previous version would not sync between PC's.
Why is this DeLorean related? OneNote is where I keep a lot of info related to the DeLorean that I find on the internet. If there is a website I find interesting or something I find here I copy it into OneNote. A great tool.
I just installed my new tail light boards from Grady!! They work flawlessly!!:headbang:
Very Very cool !Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick C
Replaced passenger side wheel bearing.
Attachment 31921
I hate it when my balls are showing. :umm:
Driving is way smoother now. My steering wheel is not shaking that much anymore. I did not do the rear bearings yet. I think that I will have to disconnect the breaks to get the wheel hub out and that was a project I was not willing to do today.
But I got to my final drive. Replaced O-rings and seals of the axle shafts and put a speed sleeve on each axle flange. Also replaced the copper washers of the drain and filler plug and refilled the final drive. I hope that this took care of my leaky final drive, but we will see.
Oh, and noticed that my blower in the car seems to hit something so it is really getting loud when you switch to fan setting 2 (it was really cold so I got the heater going). This is an other project I am not looking forward to. I have the feeling that I will have to take the dash apart to get to the heater and blower.
Volker - the blower is accessible from the passenger footwell. Drops out in 5 min!
Some debris may have migrated towards the fan.
A minute late on this reply, soQuote:
Originally Posted by vps3922
+1 on Dave's note.
The flub-dub or ticking fan noise isn't uncommon. A new fan motor did wonders for ours a long time ago. Your noise source may vary....
what was wrong with the old ones?Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
Cool, I did not know. I just noticed it and I also think that there is some debris in there. I will put this on my winter projects list and read up on how to remove the blower.Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
Thank you and Rich!
Sunday evening:
Replaced angle drive, speedo works great now
Installed DMCH LEDs to doors, engine bay, trunk, interior
Replaced missing passenger front lower fender brace. Not idea why it was missing but replacement went on easily.
That reminds me that I forgot something from my entry yesterday:Quote:
Originally Posted by 63SWC
Lubed up angle drive interior with 80W90 to get rid of a squeeking, and lubed the steering U-joints to improve on steering quality, as recommended by Toby from DMCNW.
Drove the car over the weekend and experienced the fuel pickup hose collapsing as she sat in traffic with the heat and themos blowing hot air constantly onto the tank.
Not a pretty noise. Stalled on the way home which wasn't fun either.
Was recommended to install a SS spring in the tube to pretty further collapse if I am sill wanting to drive throughout the summer months.
Hehe, I had to check your location to really get that. -8 degrees Celsius in Vancouver, BC and that is really cold here (not comparable to Calgary or Red Deer with -20 and lower).Quote:
Originally Posted by SIMid
I hope you can get this issue resolved with the spring and have a great summer down under!
LOL! Yeah, we are literally on opposite ends of the planet!Quote:
Originally Posted by vps3922
Will get it resolved, I try not to drive the car in the heat anyway. Just on that day, I was requested to do charity joy rides for kids with cancer, so the car was like a taxi for a few hours which did not help with the temperature building up in the tank.